Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 6.13: “The Promise)
Vitals
Timothy Olyphant as Raylan Givens, old-fashioned Deputy U.S. Marshal
Miami to Lebec, California, Fall 2018
Series: Justified
Episode: “The Promise” (Episode 6.13)
Air Date: April 14, 2015
Director: Adam Arkin
Creator: Graham Yost
Costume Designer: Patia Prouty
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
Raylan Givens is coming back to TV in just three days! The mini-series Justified: City Primeval will premiere on FX on Tuesday, July 18, with Timothy Olyphant reprising his extremely charismatic portrayal of the Deputy U.S. Marshal created by author Elmore Leonard.
I’m typically wary of revivals, reboots, and reunions, especially after a series finale as neatly wrapped as Justified, but I have faith in the team and the fact that it looks like the Detroit-set Justified: City Primeval will be focusing on an original story rather than revisiting the plot that had been so well-resolved in “The Promise”.
Fans will recall that the final act of Justified was set after Raylan nearly met his match—and his end—facing off against quick-draw gunman Boon (Jonathan Tucker). Set four years after the climactic gunfight, the epilogue follows Raylan to wrap up the three pillars of his arc throughout the series:
- His family: Raylan enjoys an amicable co-parenting situation with his ex-wife Winona (Natalie Zea), allowing a few light digs at her new partner Richard (Jason Gedrick) but prioritizing his daughter Willa (Eden Henderson), presumably undoing a cycle of generational trauma that had been perpetuated by his late father. (Olyphant’s real-life daughter Vivian Olyphant will play Willa in City Primeval.)
- His career: Raylan has been reassigned to Miami, where he had been working when the series began, though he maintains a friendly—and fruitful—professional relationship with his former colleague, Rachel Brooks (Erica Tazel).
- The Crowder family drama: Raylan resolves his long-term drama with Ava (Joelle Carter) in a manner that provides both of them closure with the irrepressible Boyd (Walton Goggins):
We dug coal together.
Co-written by series creator Graham Yost (with Fred Golan, Dave Andron, and Benjamin Cavell) and directed by actor Adam Arkin, “The Promise” is a satisfying series finale experience that served as the end of this story… but not the end of Raylan Givens, justifying (so to speak) the existence of Justified: City Primeval to continue his story without undoing the resolution of the finale.
What’d He Wear?
A New Hat
After his signature silverbelly cattleman’s hat was literally shot off of his head four years earlier, Raylan has taken to wearing Boon’s fedora, following a storied western tradition of gunslingers adopting the headgear of the man they killed.
Boon gives up his hat when he gives up his life.
Rachel: Nice hat.
Raylan (recalling a first-season interaction): I tried it on, and it fit.
Much of Justified centers around whether or not its characters can ever truly leave Harlan County behind. By swapping out his cowboy hat for a more city-associated hat, Raylan signifies he’s ready to finally leave eastern Kentucky behind as he resumes his duties in the considerably more urban environment of Miami. (That said, promotional photos have made it clear that Raylan will be back in a silverbelly cattleman’s hat for City Primeval.)
Justified series creator Graham Yost explained to Matt Zoller Seitz for Vulture that dressing Raylan in the new hat was also done in tribute to the late Elmore Leonard’s original vision for the character, explaining that Boon’s fedora is “a little closer to what Elmore had in mind for Raylan. It’s still not quite the businessman Stetson. But at least more in that neighborhood.” Yost later elaborated that this hat was the only thing he recalled Timothy Olyphant taking home after production wrapped.
Recalling the predominant business hat style through most of the 20th century, Boon’s fedora is made of olive felt with a self-edged brim and a matching olive grosgrain band, with a green-tipped matchstick tucked behind the bow on the left side—a signature of its Venice, California-based hatmaker, Nick Fouquet. The hat also has a small gold clip clamped over the front right part of the brim.
How do we feel about Raylan’s fedora era?
Miami
Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 6.13: “The Promise)
How to Get the Look:
- Charcoal-on-blue checked cotton long-sleeved shirt with straight point collar, plain front, and squared button cuffs
- Charcoal lightweight cotton Miami Marlins short-sleeved crew-neck T-shirt
- Medium-dark blue denim Levi’s 501 Original Fit button-fly jeans
- Black tooled leather belt with silver-toned squared single-prong buckle
- Tan leather custom-made belt holster for full-sized Glock pistol
- Cigar-brown ostrich-leg Lucchese cowboy boots
- Dark olive felt self-edged fedora with olive grosgrain band
- Sterling silver horseshoe-shaped ring
- Versales polished steel-cased quartz watch with round luminous white dial on black leather strap
Speaking of hats, I believe the last time we saw Raylan in a graphic T-shirt, it was for yet another Florida sports team in the first-season episode “Hatless” (Episode 1.09). Now that he’s reassigned to the 305, Raylan wears his regional pride in the form of a Nike-made T-shirt celebrating the Miami Marlins, the major-league baseball team that had been known as the Florida Marlins until 2012.
The short-sleeved crew-neck T-shirt is made of charcoal lightweight cotton, marled to a soft, vintage-looking finish. The chest is the large heathered red, yellow, blue, and gray “M” logo that the team adopted with their name change in 2012, underlined by “MIAMI” in gray. The familiar red “swoosh” at the left shoulder indicates that the shirt was made by Nike.
Four years after leaving Harlan County, Raylan still recognizes that there are few problems that ice cream can’t solve (or at least make more palatable.)
Heading back into the office, Raylan pulls on a charcoal-on-blue checked John Varvatos shirt that he had worn several times throughout the series, both for a light layer that somewhat covers his holstered Glock but also to add a touch of professionalism with his T-shirt, though the Marshals’ office in Miami appears to have a more relaxed dress code than Raylan typically followed while working at the Lexington office.
The shirt is patterned with horizontal bar stripes alternating between muted shades of blue and charcoal, framed with a thin black and charcoal check. The long-sleeved shirt has a straight point collar and squared single-button cuffs, and a plain front for the smoke-toned plastic buttons, though Raylan wears the shirt completely open in “The Promise”. All these edges are detailed with a dark contrasting baste-stitch.
Lebec
Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 6.13: “The Promise)
How to Get the Look:
- Navy-and-brown tartan plaid flannel long-sleeved shirt-jacket with narrow point collar, 6-snap front placket, snap-flapped chest pockets, on-seam hand pockets, and squared single-snap cuffs
- Navy cotton long-sleeved 4-button henley shirt
- Medium-blue denim Levi’s 501 Original Fit button-fly jeans
- Black tooled leather belt with silver-toned squared single-prong buckle
- Tan leather custom-made belt holster for full-sized Glock pistol
- Cigar-brown ostrich-leg Lucchese cowboy boots
- Dark olive felt self-edged fedora with olive grosgrain band
- Sterling silver horseshoe-shaped ring
- Versales polished steel-cased quartz watch with round luminous white dial on black leather strap
Raylan follows Rachel’s tip about Ava Crowder’s whereabouts to Lebec, California, a small, unincorporated census-designated community about 40 miles south of Bakersfield in Kern County. Here, he’s more warmly layered for fall than he had been with his lightweight open shirt and T-shirt in Miami.
Raylan’s base shirt is a navy cotton long-sleeved henley shirt with a short four-button top that he wears with all but the top button fastened.
He layers it under a navy-and-brown tartan plaid flannel twill shirt-jacket that closes with six gunmetal-toned snaps up the front placket, though he wears the front totally open. The shirt-jacket (“shacket”, if you will) is cut and styled like a regular shirt, with a narrow point collar, two chest pockets that each close with a pointed snap-down flap, and squared single-snap cuffs. Other than the heavier weight of the garment, the most significant differentiation from a regular shirt are the addition of the on-seam hand pockets.
Raylan exclusively wears blue denim Levi’s jeans, specifically the Levi’s 501® Original Fit, though he rotates through several washes like the darker blue “stonewash” denim seen in Miami to the medium-shaded blue denim in the Lebec sequence.
Most Levi’s jeans follow the same five-pocket design and are detailed with the brand’s recognizable red tab sewn against the side of the back-right pocket, but the 501 differentiates itself with its button-fly and timeless cut. The venerated 501 traces its origins back to 1873 when Levi Strauss & Co. perfected their riveted “waist overalls” designed specifically for miners… or, in the parlance of Raylan and Boyd, men who “dug coal together.”
Raylan’s Usual Boots, Belt, and Accessories
Raylan ends the series wearing the same Lucchese L1380 cowboy boots that costume designer Patia Prouty had selected him to wear for the third season onward, replacing the Justin anteater boots from the first two seasons. The boots are made from a “cigar” brown ostrich-leg, a soft and durable hide that was aged by Prouty’s costume team after they were acquired for the production.
Raylan nods to his cowboy values with his tooled leather belt, made from a black leather that has been worn to such a degree that the edges show the lighter brown natural leather before it was tanned. The belt closes through a polished silver-toned single-prong buckle.
When on duty (and not enjoying ice cream with his daughter), Raylan affixes his U.S. Marshals badge and gun to his belt. He carries his Glock in a tan full-grain leather paddle holster with a snap-closed top strap, custom-made by Alfonso Gun Leather of Hollywood from the second season onward, replacing the cosmetically similar Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® he had worn for the first season.
Raylan also shows his cowboy side with his sterling silver horseshoe-shaped statement ring, designed with black-filled braided sides that taper toward the back of the band.
After wearing a stainless Rolex Submariner in the pilot episode and a leather-strapped TAG Heuer Series 6000 Chronometer through several seasons to follow, Raylan had actually downgraded his watch by the end of the series to what an eagle-eyed expert at the WatchUSeek forums identified as a quartz watch from the budget-oriented Japanese watchmaker Versales, worn on a black leather strap. The polished steel case has a round white dial with black Arabic numeral hour indices, each with the coordinating 24-hour marker printed smaller in red. A pusher at the 2 o’clock position likely activates the luminous dial.
Truly the last we saw of Raylan, opposite an imprisoned Boyd Crowder. We see little more than Raylan’s nondescript solid black shirt, but we can assume it’s tucked into Levi’s 501s with his usual tooled leather belt and ostrich-leg boots.
Do Yourself a Favor and…
Check out the series. I also recommend that fans of the show who are on Facebook follow the great page @EverythingJustified which features many great photos, videos, and moments from the series as well as shots of screen-worn gear and chances to get your hands on similar clothing.
The Quote
Every long-time fugitive I’ve ever run down expects me to congratulate them for not doin’ what no one’s supposed to be doin’ anyhow.
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