William Powell as Nick Charles in Song of the Thin Man (1947)
Vitals
William Powell as Nick Charles, witty detective
New York City, September 1947
Film: Song of the Thin Man
Release Date: August 28, 1947
Director: Edward Buzzell
Costume Supervisor: Irene
Background
Across six films beginning with The Thin Man, William Powell and Myrna Loy channeled their remarkable screen chemistry into portraying Nick and Nora Charles, a married couple who work together to solve murders between martinis. On the 40th anniversary of William Powell’s death on March 5, 1984 at the age of 91, today’s post explores the debonair actor’s attire from his swan song as Nick Charles.
Song of the Thin Man was the sixth and final film in the series, which had evolved considerably from its roots in the 13 years since The Thin Man had been released in the final weeks of the “pre-Code” era. By this point, much of the humor had shifted from cocktails to child-rearing and the original creative team—director W.S. Van Dyke and married screenwriting team Albert Hackett and Frances Goodrich—were no longer available to infuse the elements that had spectacularly distinguished the first few films. Still, Song of the Thin Man benefits from the indefatigably charming chemistry of Powell and Loy, joined as always by their loyal terrier Asta.
The Charles family is undergoing some light-hearted strife as Nora tasks Nick with punishing Nick Jr. (Dean Stockwell, born today in 1936) for skipping his piano practice, but Nick is initially too overcome with pride as he recalls bringing their young son home from the hospital to go through with the spanking. The hijinks are interrupted by the arrival of newlyweds Phil Brant (Bruce Cowling) and Janet Thayar (Jayne Meadows) with the unpleasant news that Phil is wanted for murder. After a mysterious gunshot brings the police to the apartment, Phil is arrested, which Nick considers to be for the best to keep him safe while he can investigate.
What’d He Wear?
Nick Jr.: Hi Dad! Gee, you look keen!
Nick: Beautiful day, thought I’d dress for it.
Nora: You look like a page of out of Esquire!
When Nick joins his family for breakfast, he’s immediately greeted by his wife and son complimenting his attire. While they’re not wrong as William Powell looks very sharp, the family (and sharp-eyed audiences) may have recognized that Nick had previously worn the same sports coat in the previous film, The Thin Man Goes Home.
Curiously, both times that Nick wears this houndstooth sport jacket, he’s faced with the prospect of spanking a member of his immediate family—first Nora in The Thin Man Goes Home and then Nick Jr. in Song of the Thin Man. He seems a little less hesitant in the case of the former.
The single-breasted jacket is made from a handsome houndstooth check; of course, the black-and-white photography prevents definitive identification of the colors but it may be a classic black-and-white configuration or a more countrified brown-and-cream. The jacket is flatteringly and fashionably cut for the 1940s with its wide padded shoulders, ventless back, and front darts that shape Powell’s silhouette.
The notch lapels roll over the top of the three front buttons, with the center button positioned over Powell’s waist to elegantly divide the shirt and tie above the buttoning point and trousers below it—an arrangement known as a “3/2-roll”. The three buttons on each cuff match the dark horn buttons on the front. The sporty patch pockets over the breast and hips signal the jacket’s less formal nature, with a colorful printed silk kerchief dressing the breast pocket.
Perhaps the family is impressed by Nick’s colored sports shirt that departs from the more traditional white shirt he had worn with the jacket in The Thin Man Goes Home. The shirt is made from a soft, light-colored fabric, likely gabardine or silky rayon, as were traditionally used for sport shirts of the period. Though Nick wears a tie, the way his point collar fastens suggests a convertible collar, characterized by a loop extending from the left side that fastens to a small button concealed under the right collar leaf. These collars were designed to be versatile, so they would look just as presentable buttoned to the neck as they would open-neck, resembling what has often been called a “camp collar”.
Shirts like this often had chest pockets, though the full chest of Nick’s sport jacket prevents us from seeing anything more than the plain button-up front and the two-button cuffs.
The Nick Charles we met in the 1930s rarely wore anything other than traditional striped or solid ties—perhaps the occasional polka dot. However, taste had changed by the 1940s, specifically the late ’40s as American menswear evolved bolder and brasher in reflection of postwar optimism.
Thus, Nick dresses for the day in a printed silk tie, painted with a series of upturned snifters and shapely poco grande glasses, each seemingly spilling their contents against a dark ground. Though closer to novelty neckwear than anything we’d ever seen Nick Charles wear, the tippling theme feels appropriate for one of cinema’s most famous imbibers.
Nick balances his visually interesting upper half with a more subdued lower half. As in The Thin Man Goes Home, he wears light-colored wool gabardine pleated slacks with a long rise to Powell’s natural waist. Almost certainly styled with side pockets, these trousers have a fashionably full cut through the legs down to the bottoms, finished with turn-ups (cuffs). He completes the look with dark cap-toe oxfords—likely dark brown leather—and even darker socks.
What to Imbibe
“I hope you don’t mind drinking this early,” Nick comments while offering to pour highballs for Phil and Janet, when he thinks they’re celebrating the newlyweds’ nuptials rather than consulting on his murder accusation. He sends Nora to get his “last bottle of Scotch” from the leg of his red pajamas, suffering a true tragedy when the gunshot fired at Phil ends up destroying Nick’s prized Scotch bottle.
An excuse to have whisky at breakfast? Nick Charles won’t need much convincing.
While previous Thin Man films had depicted Nick drinking both Haig Dimple Pinch and Johnnie Walker Red Label, neither appears to be the doomed bottle he retrieves in Song of the Thin Man.
How to Get the Look
William Powell as Nick Charles in Song of the Thin Man (1947)
Nick Charles’ natty houndstooth jacket, sports shirt, and natty tie and pocket square presents a smart and comfortable combination for the transitional season as we ease into warmer spring weather.
- Houndstooth check wool single-breasted 3/2-roll sport jacket with notch lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
- Mid-colored gabardine or rayon long-sleeved sport shirt with convertible collar, plain front, and 2-button cuffs
- Dark drinking glass-printed silk tie
- Light-colored gabardine wool pleated high-rise trousers with side pockets and turn-ups/cuffs
- Dark brown leather cap-toe oxford shoes
- Dark socks
Do Yourself a Favor and…
Check out the movie.
The Quote
You know, it’s positively sadistic the way you drive me to work.
The post Song of the Thin Man: William Powell’s Houndstooth Jacket as Nick Charles appeared first on BAMF Style.