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Dirty Harry’s Navy Windbreaker in Magnum Force

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Clint Eastwood as Inspector "Dirty Harry" Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)

Clint Eastwood as Inspector “Dirty Harry” Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)

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Clint Eastwood as Harry Callahan, tough San Francisco Police Department inspector

San Francisco, August 1972

Film: Magnum Force
Release Date: December 25, 1973
Director: Ted Post
Costume Supervisor: Glenn Wright

Background

When the first Dirty Harry sequel was being conceptualized in the early 1970s, Clint Eastwood recalled a plot line introduced by Terrence Malick in an unused first draft for Dirty Harry that was fleshed out by John Milius to center around a group of young rogue officers in the San Francisco Police Department who formed a secret vigilante “death squad” to rid the city of its worst criminals. This neatly responded to criticism of Harry Callahan’s methods from the first film, illustrating that while Harry may be an antihero comfortable with skirting red tape to get the job done, he doesn’t extend down into the villainous domain that truly takes the law into their own hands, illustrated by the movie’s repeated motif that “a man’s got to know his limitations.”

Magnum Force launched the careers of several of the actors playing the young officers like Tim Matheson, David Soul, and Robert Urich, who would go on to star in ’70s fare such as Animal House, Starsky & Hutch, and Vega$, respectively.

The involvement of Milius meant plenty of attention paid to firearms, from the title itself and the lingering shots of Harry’s .44 Magnum over the opening credits to extended dialogue about the officers’ weapons and shooting practice and competitions beyond the call of duty. When Milius left to film Dillinger, Michael Cimino was hired to revise the script, adding more action sequences and—at Eastwood’s suggestion—a love interest for Harry named Sunny (Adele Yoshioka).

While Milius scoffed at additions like this, he was no doubt pleased by scenes that found Harry and the officers comparing the relative merits of their service revolvers, later followed by an annual shooting competition where Harry gets to show off his abilities not just with his own legendary Smith & Wesson but also with the .357 Magnum carried by the rogue group’s ostensible leader, Officer John Davis (David Soul)… though this turns out to be merely a method for Harry to get his hands on slugs from the revolver to conduct ballistics testing that would potentially link Davis and his fellow officers to the murder of a drug kingpin.

What’d He Wear?

Per request from BAMF Style reader Ryan, let’s take a look at Harry’s dressed-down duds for target shooting. While practicing at the range and in competition, Harry wears a comfortable dark navy windbreaker made from water-resistant cotton or a cotton/polyester blend. Similar to a classic “Harrington jacket”, the waist-length jacket has a standing two-button collar, a zip front, slanted side pockets (albeit without flaps), and raglan sleeves.

Harry fires a cylinder through Davis' Colt Python revolver.

Harry fires a cylinder through Davis’ Colt Python revolver.

However, Harry’s jacket has more in common with the Baracuta G4 golf jacket than the G9 “Harrington” as evident by the non-blouson waist hem and the cuffs having an adjustable button closure rather than elasticized ribbing. The jacket is decidedly not a Baracuta as it lacks the venerated British brand’s signature Fraser tartan plaid lining, instead lined in a navy material that matches the lightweight shell, though you’d be in good hands with a Baracuta G4 if you’re looking to crib Harry’s look.

Update! After this post was published, BAMF Style reader Dan suggested London Fog as the potential manufacturer of Harry’s jacket. Based on seeing some of their 1970s golf jackets (such as this piece that sold on Poshmark), this may indeed be the solution!

Harry likely chooses this as his designated shooting jacket in Magnum Force as there two outward-facing pleats on each side of the back, shirred at the horizontal yoke that reaches from armpit to armpit, giving Harry a greater range of easy movement as he takes aim.

The back yoke on Harry's jacket is an additional differentation from the Baracuta G4, which lacks the double side pleats and has a lower-placed "umbrella"-style storm flap and also has adjustable straps on the sides to tighten the fit around the waist as needed.

The back yoke on Harry’s jacket is an additional differentation from the Baracuta G4, which lacks the double side pleats and has a lower-placed “umbrella”-style storm flap and also has adjustable straps on the sides to tighten the fit around the waist as needed.

When Harry arrives at the shooting range for an evening of target practice among the SFPD “death squad”, he wears a pine green short-sleeved polo shirt made from a lightweight synthetic knit fabric as was trendy during the mid-’70s. The shirt has a set-in breast pocket with a single-button flap (best seen in behind-the-scenes photography when Eastwood has his jacket off) and a long front placket with four imitation pearl plastic buttons.

MAGNUM FORCE

Later in Magnum Force, his suspicions aroused by the young officers, he dresses more casually for the shooting competition in a red crew-neck T-shirt with elbow-length raglan sleeves. On the left breast is a small design consisting of two bright orange footprints, matching a similar logo—embroidered in navy blue—on Officer Davis’ sky blue polo shirt.

The logo suggests that Harry’s and Davis’ shirts were made by Hang Ten USA, “the original surf and California lifestyle brand” that has used this double footprint logo since it was founded in 1960. While the brand continues to offer surf clothing today, you can also scour eBay for vintage finds similar to the short-sleeved top Harry wears for his competition.

Harry's Hang Ten shirt can be identified by the double-footprint logo on his left breast.

Harry’s Hang Ten shirt can be identified by the double-footprint logo on his left breast.

Harry removes his jacket during the competition to reveal his tanned leather shoulder rig with a holster suspending his signature Smith & Wesson Model 29 revolver under his left arm for a right-handed draw. As in the earlier installment, Dirty Harry, Harry carries a 6.5″-barreled model in what appears to be the same tanned leather Bucheimer-Clark holster with a sewn yoke, tension screw, and narrow belt strap.

Harry stands with his pal Frank DiGiorgio (John Mitchum) during the police target shooting competition.

Harry stands with his pal Frank DiGiorgio (John Mitchum) during the police target shooting competition.

Harry’s trousers are beige flat front chinos with a long rise and a straight leg that flatters Eastwood’s tall, lean physique as he strides across the field during the competition. The trousers have on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, plain-hemmed bottoms, and tall belt loops for his thick brown leather belt, detailed through the center in light brown and fastened through a large, gold-toned single-prong buckle.

MAGNUM FORCE

Harry’s brown napped leather sneakers coordinate with his shoe leather and the informality of the outfit. They are lined in a white leather that can be seen around the ankle collar as a marked contrast to his slightly darker chocolate brown cotton lisle socks.

MAGNUM FORCE

The Gun

Thanks in large part to John Milius’ early influence, Magnum Force ensured that Harry’s iconic Smith & Wesson Model 29 would continue to ride its momentum from Clint Eastwood’s introduction two years earlier as “a .44 Magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world,” to become one of the most famous movie firearms of all time. (The title alone, Magnum Force, suggests the power not only of Harry’s Smith & Wesson but also the .357 Magnum revolvers carried by each member of the SFPD death squad.)

Harry’s blued steel Model 29 with its rosewood grips has the same 6.5″ barrel as he carried in Dirty Harry, bringing the weapon’s overall length to one foot. When shooting with the “death squad” officers at the firing range, he explains that his ammunition is “a light Special… this size gun, it gives you better control and less recoil than a .357 Magnum with wadcutters.” The line was reportedly a holdover from John Milius’ contributions, though the firearms-enthusiast director was no longer attached to the production at the time and wasn’t able to clarify that, although the Model 29 can fire the lighter .44 Special round, Harry’s line instead implied that he used a lighter .44 Magnum load that he specially prepared himself.

Production photo of Clint Eastwood taking aim with Harry's notorious Smith & Wesson Model 29 in Magnum Force.

Production photo of Clint Eastwood taking aim with Harry’s notorious Smith & Wesson Model 29 in Magnum Force.

In 1979, after the first three films of the Dirty Harry franchise were released, Smith & Wesson shortened the Model 29’s 6.5″ barrel length to 6″, and it was this 6″-barreled Model 29 that Clint Eastwood carried in his Bianchi X2000 holster for the final two installments, Sudden Impact (1983) and The Dead Pool (1988).

As always, you can learn more about this and other firearms featured in Magnum Force by checking out IMFDB.

How to Get the Look

Clint Eastwood as Inspector "Dirty Harry" Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)

Clint Eastwood as Inspector “Dirty Harry” Callahan in Magnum Force (1973). Note that the revolver in his hands appears to be one of the troopers’ Colts and not his signature Smith & Wesson.

Harry Callahan comfortably layers in a roomy windbreaker and chinos for days and nights practicing with his famous .44 Magnum.

  • Navy water-resistant cotton or cotton-blend waist-length zip-front windbreaker jacket with standing two-button collar, slanted side pockets, raglan sleeves with button cuffs, and horizontal yoke with double side-pleat sets
  • Red cotton crew-neck raglan-sleeve T-shirt
  • Beige chino cotton flat front trousers with tall belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Brown (with light brown center) leather belt with large gold-toned single-prong belt buckle
  • Brown suede 4-eyelet sneakers
  • Chocolate brown cotton lisle socks
  • Light brown leather shoulder holster (RHD) for a Smith & Wesson Model 29 revolver

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out Magnum Force or pick up the entire five-film Dirty Harry collection.


Goodfellas: Tommy’s “Funny” Gray Silk Suit

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Joe Pesci as Tommy DeVito in Goodfellas (1990)

Joe Pesci as Tommy DeVito in Goodfellas (1990)

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Joe Pesci as Tommy DeVito, volatile and violent Mafia associate

Brooklyn, New York, Summer 1963

Film: Goodfellas
Release Date: September 19, 1990
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

Background

You mean, let me understand this cause, ya know maybe it’s me, I’m a little fucked up maybe, but I’m funny how, I mean funny like I’m a clown, I amuse you? I make you laugh, I’m here to fuckin’ amuse you? What do you mean funny, funny how? How am I funny?

Well, Tommy, it is April Fool’s Day.

Goodfellas provided Joe Pesci with his major break in movies, winning him an Academy Award and securing his place in the American pop culture canon with this early scene that been inspired by one of Pesci’s own life experiences, establishing the personality of the psychotic Tommy DeVito. The cinematic Tommy was inspired by several figures in the real Mafia associate Henry Hill’s life, including Lenny Vario and—most significantly—the hotheaded killer Tommy DeSimone. DeSimone, however, was born in 1950 and was considerably younger and brawnier than Pesci, though Pesci’s explosive energy transcended age and size, portraying an impulsive vigor of a man half the 46-year-old actor’s actual age.

Pesci’s Tommy makes a relatively subtle on-screen debut, relegated to standing aside the young adult “Hendry” (Ray Liotta) at Idlewild Airport as he’s introduced to viewers in a glamorous shot that tilts up from his olive alligator loafers, set to the tune of Billy Ward and the Dominoes’ “Stardust”. Of course, as soon as he action gets going, Tommy isn’t content to play a silent second fiddle and Pesci soon gets a chance to shine as the silk-suited wiseguys and their goomahs idle the evening away at the tropical-themed Bamboo Lounge in Canarsie. The mood is jovial as the drinks are flowing, and Tommy glows as the center of attention, delighting his comrades with a story about being hauled in for police questioning while evidently staking out a New Jersey bank:

What’s really funny was that fucking bank job away in Secaucus. I’m in the middle of the fuckin’ weeds lying down. He comes over, he said, “What are you doing?” I said, “I’m restin’.” “Here, you restin?” I’m at a fuckin’ beach, in the park, I said “Yeah, I’m resting!” I know I’m restin’, I’m restin’! They pull me in, they start askin’ me all kinds of questions, you know, this and that, he says, “Oh, uh, so what are you gonna tell us, tough guy?” I said, “My usual, zero, nothing! Why tell you?” The fuck. He said, “No, you’re gonna tell me somethin’ today, tough guy.” I said, “Alright, I’ll tell ya somethin’, go fuck your mother.” Bing! Pow! Boom! You saw the paper, Anthony, my head was out like this! The prick. So now I’m comin’ around, you know, I start to come out of it, who do I see in front of me? This big prick again. He says, “Oh, what do you wanna tell me now, tough guy?” I said, “Mingia! What are you doin’ here? I thought I told you go to fuck your mother!” I thought he was gonna shit! Pow! Bing! Boom! The fuckers! Ming’, I wish I was big just once!

Despite his own admitted preamble that the story was funny, the tone in the room quickly grows tense as Tommy seems to take offense to Henry’s off-handed comment that he’s “funny… really funny.”

Luckily for Henry, this was merely Tommy’s idea of a practical joke—a joke he punctuates by pulling a .38 from his pants and holding on Henry as he chuckles—but we are soon treated to Tommy’s true ire when the tiki club’s owner, mobbed-up Sonny Bunz (Tony Darrow), comes over on behalf of the waiter, asking Tommy to make good on his $7,000 tab before he can charge yet another round of drinks to it. Embarrassed in front of his friends, Tommy breaks a glass over the man’s forehead and kicks the bleeding club owner across the room, all to the hysterical laughter of his friends. Once he’s again seated, Tommy the joker returns:

You want to laugh? This prick last week asked me to christen his kid!

What’d He Wear?

Particularly for nights out on the town, Goodfellas establishes the mid-century wiseguy’s “uniform” as a silk suit, spearpoint-collar shirt that buries the tie knot, a pair of eye-catching kicks other than the standard derby or oxford, and at least one gold ring with a little something extra to make it shine. Henry Hill may be dressed louder for this night at the Bamboo Lounge in the summer of 1963, but Tommy DeVito commands the room’s attention—and fear—from a silk-suited 5’4″ package.

Tommy wears a shark gray silk suit with a distinctive single-breasted, peak-lapel jacket. While single-breasted jackets with peak lapels were always never fully obsolete in men’s fashion, the style was in relative remission during the Camelot era, to be revived again as lapels and collars grew broader during the disco years. It’s likely that Tommy was seeking to dress like his idols, the Prohibition-era gangsters like Al Capone and “Lucky” Luciano who would have been rigged in single-breasted, peak-lapel jackets when this was a revolutionary new style.

At least Tommy’s tailor keeps his look relatively contemporary by keeping his lapels of a moderate width with straight gorges as the wide, full-bellied peak lapel associated with the earlier era would have looked considerably out of place in the early ’60s and may have indeed made the compact Pesci look “funny like a clown”. The ventless jacket has roped sleeveheads, jetted hip pockets, and a welted breast pocket where Tommy wears a creamy ivory satin silk pocket square to coordinate with the more prominent color in his tie.

"You're supposed to be doin' this stuff, too," Tommy tells Henry... referring to harassing waiters and nightclub owners?

“You’re supposed to be doin’ this stuff, too,” Tommy tells Henry… referring to harassing waiters and nightclub owners?

Like all of the characters, Tommy’s style evolves with his age and the respective era, but one constant detail of his tailoring is the unique gauntlet (or “turnback”) cuffs on the sleeves of his suit jackets. This neo-Edwardian detail cycled in and out of fashion over the years, first revived in the early years of the roaring ’20s when gangsters like Al Capone and Enoch “Nucky” Johnson (the real-life counterpart to Steve Buscemi’s “Nucky” Thompson on Boardwalk Empire) showcased their success via bespoke tailoring.

As opposed to the real Tommy DeSimone who turned 13 years old in 1963, the Goodfellas version of Tommy had reached adulthood by the early 1960s, a time when gauntlet cuffs were enjoying a resurgence. James Bond author Ian Fleming had been a noted fan of this detail, not only having his own suits rigged with them but also appending many of the characters throughout the 007 literary canon with what he called “turnback cuffs”. In the first official James Bond movie Dr. No (1962), Sean Connery was introduced to audiences in a midnight blue dinner jacket tailored by Anthony Sinclair and detailed with gauntlet cuffs at the ends of his sleeves, establishing a black tie practice that would be sporadically followed by fellow 007 actors Roger Moore and Daniel Craig in their respective adventures. (You can read more about gauntlet cuffs in the Bond series in the excellently researched and illustrated post on Matt Spaiser’s blog, The Suits of James Bond.)

Whether taking his cues from 007 or a local tailor aware of Tommy’s Capone-esque aspirations, Tommy’s gray silk suit jacket at the Bamboo Lounge is the first of many that he would wear with narrow, inch-high cuffs at the end of his sleeves, complemented here with two “kissing” non-functioning cuff buttons.

If you ever make a friend who laughs at your jokes with Henry's level of enthusiasm, hold on to that friend.

If you ever make a friend who laughs at your jokes with Henry’s level of enthusiasm, hold on to that friend.

Tommy’s trousers have an appropriately high rise that meets his jacket at the buttoning point and are shaped in the front darts, the little-celebrated tailoring detail that adds roominess through the hips like pleats but with a cleaner appearance like a flat front. The slanted “frogmouth” front pockets, which begin about an inch back from the darts and an inch down from the bottom of the belt line, also add a clean look to the front of the trousers, avoiding the potential gape that occurs with side pockets particularly on tighter-fitting trousers.

The trousers have been tailored to fit around his waist without the aid of belt or braces; indeed, the trousers don’t even have belt loops, though we can’t be sure that there aren’t button-tab or sliding adjuster tabs along the sides. Still, the waistband is fitted enough to hold the weight of Tommy’s snub-nosed revolver despite his bombastic movements and mannerisms… unlike some mob-adjacent movie characters less familiar with carrying gats.

Tommy slips his loaded .38 back into his trouser waistband after shoving it in Henry's face. As a joke, of course.

Tommy slips his loaded .38 back into his trouser waistband after shoving it in Henry’s face. As a joke, of course.

Of the three principal characters, Tommy’s shirts have the most dramatic of the signature spearpoint collars that, due to their prominence in the movie, have become colloquially known and frequently marketed as “Goodfella collars”. These massive collars with their non-existent spread and mere millimeters of tie space were a holdout from Scorsese’s recollections of his childhood growing up in the ’40s and ’50s around New York wiseguys. Though narrower collars were more fashionable by the early ’60s, the younger gangsters like Tommy and Henry who finally had the chance to dress like the Mafioso they idolized in their youth would continue wearing these somewhat outdated collars. (Their persistence pays off as long point collars would indeed be trendy again by the 1970s!)

In this scene, Tommy wears a light blue cotton shirt with a hint of a slate cast that makes the shirt look closer to a pale gray on older, lower-resolution prints of Goodfellas. The spearpoint collar with its threatening, dagger-like points is there, of course, as well as a front placket and double (French) cuffs that Tommy fastens with a set of thin silver bar links, finished on each outward-facing surface with a single column of brown squares. Tommy’s tie knot is enveloped by the shirt collar, draping the straight blade of ivory silk onto his torso, patterned with two “downhill”-directional gray block stripes that alternate in width and shade: a thick medium-gray stripe just under the knot with a slightly less wide charcoal stripe dropped a few inches below it.

Point collars are often recommended for men with rounder faces and physiques, but this spearpoint collar is still a bit extreme!

Point collars are often recommended for men with rounder faces and physiques, but this spearpoint collar is still a bit extreme!

We don’t see much of Tommy’s shoes while he’s dispatching Sonny Bunz with a swift kick in the derriere, but we can assume he’s using his usual black leather cowboy boots, his go-to footwear even with suits as they not only nod to his increasingly dangerous “cowboy” reputation but also give the 5’4″ Joe Pesci a couple extra inches in height.

Tommy is surprisingly restrained with his visible gold jewelry, wearing only a diamond ring on his left pinky and a watch on a five-piece link bracelet, secured to his left wrist under the shirt cuff. We see little of the watch, aside from its white dial with non-numeric hour markers, over the course of the movie.

GOODFELLAS

The suit makes a second appearance during Tommy and Henry’s second double date with Diane and Karen, though Henry blows the dinner off so Karen narrates with a laugh that, “we were a trio instead of a double date that night.” Although he wore a white shirt—with a monogrammed inverted box-planted pocket, no less—for the first date, he’s embraced a more mobbed-up look for the second date by wearing a black suit with a black-and-white striped tie.

Tommy doesn't let his absent friend's thoughtlessness get in the way of his appetite.

Tommy doesn’t let his absent friend’s thoughtlessness get in the way of his appetite.

This suit makes its third and final appearance during the 1971 card game when he again wanton pulls his gun, this time using it to fatally shoot Spider (Michael Imperioli) with six rounds from a .45 fired into the hapless, hobbling mob lackey. “That’s what the fuckin’ world is comin’, how do you like that?” he boasts. He again wears a black shirt, though it’s striped in white and worn open at the neck with a long point collar and double cuffs.

GOODFELLAS

This suit isn’t to be confused with another suit that Tommy wears made from a similar gray suit but styled with a notch-lapel, single-button jacket. He wears this different suit to Henry’s wedding and during the closing vignette when he fires directly at the scene à la The Great Train Robbery.

The Gun

The real “Two-Gun Tommy” DeSimone had earned his nickname for obvious reasons, given his penchant for carrying two guns at once. While this specific trait isn’t represented in Goodfellas, Pesci’s Tommy DeVito is undoubtedly the proverbial cowboy when it comes to firearms, erratically brandishing them to make a point or even just to accentuate a joke.

We get our first sense of this during the memorable Bamboo Lounge sequence when Henry doubles down on his “funny guy” joke, prompting Tommy to draw an ostensibly loaded Smith & Wesson Model 36 “Chiefs Special” snubnose revolver from his waistband and mock-threaten his childhood friend with it. This .38 Special revolver was introduced in 1950 with a five-round cylinder on Smith & Wesson’s J-frame that made it the more compact response to Colt’s generation-long supremacy in the “snub nose” revolver segment with its six-shot Detective Special. The Smith & Wesson weapon was christened with its similar appellation when the new design was presented at the International Association of Chiefs of Police convention, and the attendees voted on the name that would stick until 1957 when Smith & Wesson began numbering its models and re-designated the Chiefs Special as the Model 36. The easily concealed weapon was found to be popular among cops, civilians, and criminals alike.

Tommy takes a joke too far.

Tommy takes a joke too far.

The Smith & Wesson Model 36 is depicted as a favorite of the Lucchese family underlings in Goodfellas, with Henry using one to beat Karen’s abusive neighbor and a welching gambler in Tampa, Jimmy Conway (Robert De Niro) using one to deliver the fatal shots into a tortured, trunk-cached Billy Batts, and Tommy to use when initially beating Batts (doing so with such vigor that he actually breaks the cylinder out of the weapon) and when shooting poor Spider in the foot from across the room.

Weeks later, Spider hobbles back into the card game to serve drinks for the crew. Perhaps by design, Tommy is seated farther away from the bar and seems to quietly take it in stride when Spider responds to his needling with “why don’t you go fuck yourself, Tommy?” That is, until Jimmy lays on by mocking Tommy himself (“You gonna take that? What’s the world coming to?”), prompting the impulsive and immature Tommy to whip out a full-sized M1911A1 semi-automatic pistol and end Spider’s life with six tragically well-placed shots.

Tommy takes another joke way too far.

Tommy takes another joke way too far.

Each .45-caliber blast from the 1911 rings loud in the confined space in the basement under Robert’s Lounge, the Queens watering hole owned by Jimmy that became a de facto headquarters for the crew during the 1970s. Even on the other side of the table, Tommy was still close enough to Spider that his shots couldn’t miss, especially from a reliable service pistol with a five-inch barrel.

“Good shot, whaddya want from me? Good shot…” is Tommy’s sociopathic self-defense when his friends confront him after the killing, though they’re all smart enough (and relatively sociopathic in their own right) not to push Tommy too far on it, given what he had just done.

What to Imbibe

Anisette is Tommy DeVito’s drink of choice, drinking the sweet, anise-flavored liqueur straight after dinner at the Bamboo Lounge. “It’s anisette,” Tommy explains to Diane, his Jewish date. “You’d probably do a lot better with Manischewitz, but it’d look funny on my table!”

Taking a closer look at Tommy’s table at the Bamboo Lounge, we can clearly identify his anisette as Leroux, an inexpensive distillery of Belgian origin that currently produces its certified Kosher line of flavored brandies, schnapps, and anisette in the United States.

Anisette for Tommy, Crown Royal for Henry, and Bacardi for... who?

Anisette for Tommy, Crown Royal for Henry, and Bacardi for… who?

Also on Tommy’s table are bottles of Bacardi Superior white rum and Crown Royal Canadian whisky. The latter had been introduced in 1939 by Seagram’s president Samuel Bronfman to commemorate King George VI and Queen Elizabeth’s arrival that year, marking the first reigning monarchs to visit Canada. It wasn’t until 1964 that Crown Royal was legally available on the U.S. market, so the appearance of the distinctive bottle on Tommy’s table in summer of 1963 is either a slight anachronism or, more intriguingly, yet another indication that these brazen gangsters care little for regulation and will happily smuggle their own imported whisky and drink it wherever and whenever they damn well want.

How to Get the Look

Joe Pesci as Tommy DeVito in Goodfellas (1990)

Joe Pesci as Tommy DeVito in Goodfellas (1990)

Although he reaches adulthood in the early 1960s, Joe Pesci’s volatile mobster Tommy DeVito opts for fashions that trended a generation earlier during the gangland heyday of the latter Prohibition era, from single-breasted, peak-lapel silk suit jackets with neo-Edwardian turnback cuffs to monogrammed shirts with razor-sharp spearpoint collars.

  • Shark gray silk tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button suit jacket with peak lapels, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 2-button “turnback” cuffs, and ventless back
    • Darted-front trousers with fitted waistband, “frogmouth” front pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Light slate-blue dress shirt with long “spearpoint” collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
    • Silver bar cuff links with single column of brown squares
  • Ivory silk tie with two thick, widely spaced gray “downhill” block stripes
  • Black leather cowboy boots
  • Gold watch with round white dial (with non-numeric hour markers) on gold five-piece bracelet
  • Gold diamond pinky ring

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. Netflix subscribers can also stream Goodfellas through the end of April.

Joe Pesci’s own mother was reportedly a fan of his performance, reserving her only criticism was the amount of swearing. Indeed, Pesci is credited with around half of the 321 uses of the word “fuck” and its derivatives over the course of Goodfellas.

To add more to your Pesci fix, you can catch the actor’s entertaining 1994 interview with David Letterman on YouTube here, where the actor still can’t help dropping an F-bomb even while being interviewed on live TV.

The Quote

I wonder about you sometimes, Hendry… you may fold under questioning!

 

Daniel Craig in Defiance

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Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008)

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008)

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Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski, Polish resistance leader

Belarus, August 1941 through April 1942

Film: Defiance
Release Date: December 31, 2008
Director: Edward Zwick
Costume Designer: Jenny Beavan

Background

Daniel Craig’s fifth and final movie as James Bond, No Time to Die, was originally scheduled for release in the U.K. today. Last month, MGM and Eon Productions announced that they were pushing the release to November in response to concerns related to the worldwide COVID-19 outbreak. While the postponement may have defied the wishes of Bond fans (see where I’m going with this?), there’s still plenty of Craig’s filmography out there to stream, including the 2008 war film Defiance.

Based on the true exploits of a Polish resistance group during World War II, Defiance wastes no time in establishing the different personalities of the four Bielski Brothers: pragmatic Tuvia (Daniel Craig) who emerges as a natural leader, tough Zus (Liev Schrieber) who is always ready for a fight, sensitive Asael (Jamie Bell) for whom family unity is most important, and the quiet youngster Aron (George MacKay) who withdraws after witnessing the deaths of his parents and family at the hands of the brutal Nazi Einsatzgruppen. (In reality, Asael was older than he was portrayed and was also the first to take up arms as opposed to his more mild-mannered depiction in Defiance.)

Encountering other Jewish refugees and families in exile, the partisans work together to survive while arming themselves to fight for vengeance and defend their lives as they grow to more than 1,200 strong, organizing what would become known as the Bielski Otriad.

Director and co-screenwriter Edward Zwick and screenwriter Clayton Frohman were inspired by Nechama Tec’s 1993 book Defiance: The Bielski Partisans, adding more combat scenes including a climactic tank battle that differed from the reality of the survival-oriented group. While scenes like that may have been invented for the screen, much of Defiance was filmed on location in Lithuania, just across the Belarusian border and reportedly about 100 miles away from where the actual Bielski Otriad had camped.

What’d He Wear?

As we follow Tuvia Bielski for nearly a year in the forest, the Otriad leader would need to be dressed in layers rugged and reliable enough to protect him through months of rain, snow, dirt, and combat without the possibility of changing while also serving as relatively effective camouflage.

“In this film, the characters live with nothing, so their costumes have to show how they cope with that,” costume designer Jenny Beavan offered in a December 2008 Variety interview, where it was explained that her team created six of each of the main actors’ costumes for Defiance. “You have to have a certain amount done up front, but things evolve during the course of shooting because you become inspired by something, so we were still tweaking everything until it was just right.”

At least two of the leather jackets Beavan designed for Daniel Craig to wear as Tuvia Bielski were on display at the Heritage Museum & Gardens in Sandwich. Museum curator Jennifer Madden explained to 90.9 WBUR’s Erin Trahan that Beavan’s process included “aging” the jackets with dye and cheese graters to create the look of a garment that withstands constant battles with German troops, seasonal precipitation, and life in the woods.

DEFIANCE

Tuvia’s brown leather jacket is styled like a classic car coat, hip-length and with a large enough fit to be worn over a lounge jacket. The coat has a large, point collar and a brass zipper that zips up from the waist, leaving a few inches of skirt below to aid Tuvia’s movements when he needs to move quickly. The zipper rises up to an inch shy of the top of the coat.

A horizontal yoke extends across the front and back, aligned toward the bottom of each armhole, with short pleats extending down from each of the back yokes for a touch of added mobility. An inch down from the front yoke, on each side of the chest, is a set-in pocket with a jetted opening and brass zip closure. There are also patch pockets lower on the hips with narrow straight flaps but no evident buttons, snaps, or zips to fasten. The set-in sleeves are reinforced at the ends with a seam that rings around each cuff under a rounded-end semi-strap that closes through a single mixed dark brown sew-through button.

Tuvia confers with his brother Zus.

Tuvia confers with his brother Zus.

There are many replicas offered for sale across the internet, though I’d place my faith in the screen-inspired tribute offered by Magnoli Clothiers in goatskin, lambskin, and cowhide, as well as a “pre-distressed” finish for the kind of patina one would see after months in the woods.

From the beginning of the movie, Tuvia wears a thick dark brown leather belt that serves as his de facto gun belt, typically worn over his outermost layer though he initially wears it over his jacket and under his leather coat when only armed with the French Charmelot-Delvigne revolver that he shoves into the belt. The thick belt has a large gunmetal double-prong buckle.

After obtaining an old French revolver from their neighbor, Tuvia wears it tucked into his belt, worn under his leather coat but over his lounge jacket.

After obtaining an old French revolver from their neighbor, Tuvia wears it tucked into his belt, worn under his leather coat but over his lounge jacket.

As the Bielski Otriad gets more tightly organized and better armed, Tuvia supplements his belt with a dark leather strap that crosses over his right shoulder like a Sam Browne rig, connecting onto his waist belt with wide leather loops. This narrower strap has a gold-toned single-prong buckle, contrasting with the dulled silver gunmetal buckle of his waist belt.

The addition of the diagonal cross strap gives Tuvia better support for adding a holster, magazine pouches, and a vertical knife sheath onto his belt. The German-issued black hardshell leather holster has a wide flap with a narrow strap that passes through through a metal loop to retain his Walther P38 in place as well as a forward-positioned slot for an extra magazine. Worn on the back left of his belt is a three-cell magazine pouch, made of “field gray” (feldgrau) canvas with black retention straps to carry three of the long, straight box magazines for his MP40.

Same belt, different day... and on this particular day, Tuvia has already supplemented his usual belt with a cross strap, holster, magazine pouch, and sheathed knife.

Same belt, different day… and on this particular day, Tuvia has already supplemented his usual belt with a cross strap, holster, magazine pouch, and sheathed knife.

Under his coat, Tuvia wears a fraying olive drab cotton unstructured jacket that’s styled and cut like a ventless, single-breasted lounge jacket with its notch lapels, three-button front, patch breast pocket, and hip pockets. Unlike a suit or sport jacket, the ends of the jacket’s sleeves are plain with no buttons or vents, and Tuvia frequently cuffs back the end of each sleeve.

The color and cut of Tuvia's jacket, as well as his habit of wearing all three buttons fastened, suggests a militaresque appearance apropos his role as commander of the Bielski Otriad, even if it isn't a true military garment.

The color and cut of Tuvia’s jacket, as well as his habit of wearing all three buttons fastened, suggests a militaresque appearance apropos his role as commander of the Bielski Otriad, even if it isn’t a true military garment.

Tuvia’s pullover shirt is slate-gray with tonal blue striping, made of a lightweight cotton that has taken to pilling over many months in hard service as the Otriad leader’s only shirt. The shirt’s set-in sleeves are shirred at the shoulders and fastened with button cuffs that he unbuttons and rolls up to his forearms when working around the camp.

The shirt four buttons widely spaced down the plain-front bib, worn with the lowest three buttons fastened and open at the neck, where the top of his pale ecru slubbed long-sleeve henley undershirt occasionally peeks through. The slate-gray pullover shirt has a soft point collar that becomes unpresentably wrinkled, though keeping a pressed collar is understandably among the highest of Tuvia Bielski’s priorities.

DEFIANCE

Tuvia spends his months in the woods wearing corduroy breeches, a smart choice for comfort and durability. The cloth is a fine gauge corduroy known as “pinwale” or “needlecord” (best observed in this closeup), colored in an olive gray cloth not unlike the drab “field gray” or feldgrau of the era’s German uniforms.

Tuvia’s high-rise breeches have single foward-facing pleats, side pockets, and an additional coin pocket on the right side, though there are no back pockets. In addition to a pointed-end “cinch-back” strap, these trousers are held up by a set of green, taupe, and burgundy striped suspenders (braces) with silver-toned adjusters and brown leather hooks that connect to buttons along the inside of the trouser waistband.

DEFIANCE

The bottoms of Tuvia’s breeches are tucked into plain black leather riding boots with hard leather soles. The calf-high shafts have straight openings around the top and are unadorned with straps or buckles, similar in style to the German-issued M1939 Marschstiefel (“marching boots”), infamously monikered “jackboots”, and the long leather boots worn by the Soviet Red Army.

MP40 in hand, Tuvia takes cover behind a tree while battling the Germans.

MP40 in hand, Tuvia takes cover behind a tree while battling the Germans.

As the weather grows cooler approaching winter, Tuvia dresses for a scouting mission in an olive military side cap and charcoal woolen scarf. Tuvia may have considered the possibility of encountering the Soviets during the mission as his khaki side cap is similar to the khaki pilotka summer cap issued by the Red Army, albeit without the distinctive Red Star badge that was pinned to the front. (These days, you can even find Soviet pilotkas on Amazon!)

DEFIANCE

The sidecap makes only this brief appearance around the time of the Bielski Otriad’s first encounter with the local Soviet troops, but Tuvia would continue wearing the charcoal scarf through winter.

Otherwise, Tuvia typically dresses his head in a dark olive tweed flat cap, similar to the Greek fisherman’s caps that had crept their way inland to become popular workwear, particularly among the Russian Jewish community as famously worn by Topol as Tevye the milkman in Fiddler on the Roof (1971).

Tuvia catches Lilka's eye through the falling snow during Asael's wedding.

Tuvia catches Lilka’s eye through the falling snow during Asael’s wedding.

As the snowy winter of December 1941 extends into 1942, Tuvia adds the additional layer of a light fawn-colored topcoat made of tattered wool with a piled fur-lined collar that Zus had initially liberated from a local farmer who collaborates with the Germans. Wearing it through most of the winter, Tuvia also lends it to Lilka (Alexa Davalos) with his Walther P38 for her first food mission; she returns it to him in time for him to use as a blanket as he recovers from his winter sickness, and subsequent scenes depict both Tuvia and Lilka sharing the coat until the spring.

The long coat has a high-fastening double-breasted front with two columns of five buttons each, fastening through a fly front that provides a clean appearance when the coat is buttoned. The wide collar is fur-lined, providing extra warmth and protection when the coat is buttoned and the collar turned up against Tuvia’s neck and face. The coat also has hand pockets and a short back belt with a button on each rounded end that suppresses the fit around the waist. The set-in sleeves have no buttons, straps, or buckles at the ends, only a seam that rings around the cuff about six inches back from the end of each sleeve. Tuvia also wears dark brown knitted fingerless gloves throughout the winter.

Bundled up against the cold winter.

Bundled up against the cold winter.

When the snow thaws and winter gives way to spring, Tuvia hangs up his heavier topcoat and opts for a long dark brown leather pilot’s flying jacket that extends below his knees, another piece similar to items worn by the Soviet Army that may subconsciously code him as an ally when he returns to their camp to request assistance.

The double-breasted coat has four rows of two buttons, with the top row at the neck spaced a little higher than the three rows on the chest, belt line, and hips. Tuvia wears the coat’s large point collar turned up, revealing a throat latch buttoned onto the right collar leaf that would ostensibly be fastened to the left leaf to close the coat over his neck if needed. The coat also has slanted hand pockets and raglan sleeves with plain cuffs.

Tuvia wears double-layered leather coats for his return to the snowy Soviet camp.

Tuvia wears double-layered leather coats for his return to the snowy Soviet camp.

With the arrival of spring, Tuvia has no need for his additional layers and abandons both topcoats as well as the heavy scarf, instead catching his sweat with a black-and-gray striped wool neckerchief that he wears under his shirt like a day cravat.

Tuvia faces the group's next obstacle to freedom.

Tuvia faces the group’s next obstacle to freedom.

Tuvia wears a vintage wristwatch with a sterling silver cushion case on a brown edge-stitched leather strap. The watch has a round tan radium dial with black-outlined Arabic numeral hour markers and a sub-section register at 6:00. My friend Aldous, an eagle-eyed pro with whom I often consult with on the subject of wristwatches, suggests that the watch was likely manufactured no later than the mid-1920s due to the design of its dial, luminous “cathedral” hands, and the fixed wire lugs that were increasingly less common after the advent of the now-ubiquitous spring bar.

DEFIANCE

Cushion-cased watches were widely popular around the world during this era, making identification of Craig’s screen-worn watch more difficult. Some on Quora and WatchUSeek have suggested that, as he would as James Bond and in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, Daniel Craig wears an Omega, though of 1940s vintage to fit with the film’s timeframe, though I doubt these theories as the details of the watch don’t resemble any period Omegas I’m familiar with. Aldous pointed out to me that the quality of the metal does not suggest a higher-end watchmaker like Longines or Omega but rather a more run-of-the-mill Swiss watch like a Cyma.

In fact, I recommend tracking down vintage Cyma cushion-cased watches from the 1920s if you want to cop Daniel’s horological style from Defiance as there are quite a few on the market not unlike his screen-worn piece. (For example, this 1927-dated Cyma via Etsy.)

The Guns

“One pistol is nothing, we need rifles, machine guns,” observes Zus as the three oldest brothers formulate their first plan of vengeance. “Machine guns? What’s next, you’re gonna take on the whole German Army?” asks Tuvia, foreshadowing that—by the end of the story—that’s exactly what the brothers are prepared to do. But first, they’ll need that “one pistol.”

The handgun in question is actually a Chamelot-Delvigne Modèle 1873 revolver, designated the modèle 1873 in French military service. The MAS 1873 had already been relatively obsolete by World War II, though it had a reputation for reliability and remained in use in limited numbers by French service, namely among reserve units, police officers, and resistance fighters.

After the Franco-Prussian War resulted in a German victory, the French recognized a serious need to upgrade their weaponry. Belgian gunsmith J. Chamelot and French inventor Henri-Gustave Delvigne collaborated to develop what would become the first double-action revolver issued to the French Army. Per its designation, the Chamelot-Delvigne revolver was produced by the French state manufacturer Manufacture d’armes de Saint-Étienne (MAS) from 1873 until 1887. The Modèle 1873 with its bare metal finish was offered to non-commissioned officers while the newly developed Modèle 1874 “Revolver d’Officier” with its darker blued finish and fluted cylinder was issued to officers, though most French commissioned officers reportedly preferred swords to sidearms as personal defense weapons through World War I.

By that time, Chamelot-Delvigne revolver production had long ceased with more than 330,000 of the Army Modèle 1873 and 1874 revolvers produced as well as a slightly more powerful Navy model. The standard issue French sidearm had already been upgraded to the Modèle 1892 “Lebel” revolver, which fired the smaller 8mm French Ordinance round that, while smaller than the Modèle 1873’s 11mm round, was nearly equivalent in power.

Tuvia borrows his MAS 1873 from a neighbor, the sympathetic farmer Kościk (Jacek Korman), who only has four rounds of the revolver’s proprietary 11mm French Ordnance black powder ammunition. A rimmed cartridge measuring approximately 11×17 mm R, this round was relatively anemic for a weapon of its size, equivalent in velocity and power to the .32 ACP compact pistol round (an improvement over the earlier-issued ammunition, which was closer to the underpowered .25 ACP.) Still, it’s wielded to deadly effect in James Bond’s, er, Tuvia Bielski’s hands when he exacts vengeance on his parents’ deaths by executing the cruel Schutzmannschaft (Auxiliary Police) chief who was responsible for their deaths.

"Only four bullets," Tuvia explains to Zus, who responds: "Then we'll have to make them count."

“Only four bullets,” Tuvia explains to Zus, who responds: “Then we’ll have to make them count.”
Note Daniel Craig’s correct trigger finger discipline.

As the brothers gain access to better arms and ammunition, mostly of German or Russian issue, Tuvia has no further need for his underpowered and obsolete French revolver and begins carrying a Walther P38 as his preferred sidearm.

The Wehrmacht had adopted the P38 as its issued service pistol in 1940, two years after the first design had been completed and effectively replacing the iconic but aging Luger. The Walther P38 was innovative for its time as the first locked-breech pistol with a double-action trigger (similar to that on Walther’s blowback-action PPK), a necessity mandated by the P38’s more powerful 9x19mm ammunition. Despite some experimental or limited runs in other calibers, the 9x19mm Parabellum round was essentially standard for the P38, feeding from an eight-round box magazine. Although its locked breech was part of the initial P38 design, the Heer requested that this original design be modified from its hidden hammer to an external hammer, resulting in the two-year delay before production could get underway.

Germany produced Walther P38 pistols throughout the duration of the war, ending in 1945 after the Allied victory. A dozen years later, the West German Bundeswehr requested that the P38 re-enter production, which it did in June 1957. These postwar P38 pistols, and the P1 variant that began production in 1963, can be differentiated by their slightly lighter aluminum frames as opposed to the steel frames of WWII-production P38 pistols.

Tuvia doles out intra-camp punishment with his Walther P38.

Tuvia doles out intra-camp punishment with his Walther P38.

In addition to carrying a German service pistol, Tuvia keeps a captured German MP40 submachine gun as his primary assault weapon. Designated Maschinenpistole 40 in German military service, this submachine gun was often nicknamed the “Schmeisser” by Allied soldiers in reference to Hugo Schmeisser, the German weapons designer whose MP18 became the first submachine gun to be used in combat; however, Schmeisser had nothing to do with the direct development of the MP40, which had been designed by Heinrich Vollmer.

Fed from a 32-round, double-stack box magazine, the MP40 fired 9x19mm Parabellum ammunition at a rate of between 500 and 550 rounds per minute. The MP40 could only fire fully automatic with no options for single shots or a three-round burst as found on modern submachine guns, though this relatively low rate of fire (compared to the M1A1 Thompson firing up to 800 rounds per minute) allowed for steady shots in the hands of a skilled shooter.

More than one million MP40 submachine guns were produced at Erma Werke over the course of the war, primarily carried by infantrymen and paratroopers, the latter particularly benefiting from the weapon’s innovative front-folding stock. Unlike the Walther P38, MP40 production was not resumed after the war.

Daniel Craig correctly keeps his finger off the trigger and grips the MP40 by its handguard rather than by the magazine itself, often incorrectly depicted as a foregrip when, in fact, gripping the MP40's magazine while firing would frequently cause feeding malfunctions.

Daniel Craig correctly keeps his finger off the trigger and grips the MP40 by its handguard rather than by the magazine itself, often incorrectly depicted as a foregrip when, in fact, gripping the MP40’s magazine while firing would frequently cause feeding malfunctions.

During the climactic final battle, Tuvia overpowers a group fo German soldiers manning an MG34 machine gun and commandeers the weapon himself. This air-cooled machine gun, designated Maschinengewehr 34 in German service, predated World War II and was considered the first “general purpose” machine gun upon its introduction in 1934. The MG34 was another design from Heinrich Vollmer, the Württemberg-born weapons developer also responsible for the aforementioned MP40.

Chambered in the same rimless 7.92x57mm Mauser rifle round that had been fired by German service rifles for three decades, the recoil-operated MG34 was first issued to units in 1936, entering wider service in January 1939 as Germany prepared for war. With its high rate of fire, relative lightness, and versatility, the MG34 was a popular weapon across all German military branches and battlefronts. The complexity of its production led to the development of the cheaper and faster-firing MG42, though both machine guns remained in production and service through the war’s end.

Tuvia takes over the MG34.

Tuvia takes over the MG34.

What to Imbibe

The brothers Bielski generally limit most of their drinking toward the beginning of the movie, passing a bottle of Altenburger Schwarzgebrannter, a German herbal liqueur.

Zus hands Tuvia a bottle to drown his sorrows after an unpleasant task.

Zus hands Tuvia a bottle to drown his sorrows after an unpleasant task.

I’m not sure if this particular spirit would have been around during World War II as the Altenburger distillery site explains that the liquor factory itself didn’t open until 1948.

I’ll admit I was unfamiliar with this spirit before watching Defiance, but the Altenburger site provides additional context as well as this forum where a user describes it as “a bitter herb liqueur from Altenburg in Thuringia. One usually drinks one shot glass full after a rich meal.”

How to Get the Look

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008). From a photo by Karen Ballard.

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008). From a photo by Karen Ballard.

Even Daniel Craig himself seems to have taken some style inspiration from his costume as Tuvia Bielski, as observed by Eve Buckland for the Daily Mail.

  • Brown worn leather hip-length combat car coat with large point collar, waist-to-neck brass zip closure, horizontal front and back yoke, two  zip-closure jetted set-in chest pockets, two patch hip pockets (with flaps), and set-in sleeves with single-button straps
  • Olive cotton unstructured single-breasted 3-button jacket with patch breast pocket, hip pockets, plain cuffs, and ventless back
  • Slate-gray tonal striped lightweight cotton pullover shirt with point collar, four-button bib, and button cuffs
  • Green, taupe, and burgundy striped suspenders with silver-toned adjusters and brown leather connector hooks
  • Olive gray pinwale corduroy high-rise breeches with single forward-facing pleats, side pocket, right-side coin pocket, and cinch-back strap
  • Dark brown leather Sam Browne belt with dulled gunmetal double-prong buckle
    • Narrow dark brown leather cross strap (with gold-toned single-prong buckle)
    • Black leather Walther P38 belt holster with flap
    • Three-cell MP40 magazine pouches
    • Knife sheath
  • Black leather calf-high riding boots with hard leather soles
  • Dark olive tweed flat mariner’s cap
  • Charcoal woolen scarf
  • Vintage silver cushion-cased watch with tan dial (with Arabic numeral hour markers and 6:00 sub-dial) on brown edge-stitched leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

If we should die trying to live, then at least we die like human beings.

Gregory Peck in To Kill a Mockingbird

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Gregory Peck as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)

Gregory Peck as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)

Vitals

Gregory Peck as Atticus Finch, principled Southern lawyer

Maycomb, Alabama, Summer 1932 and 1933

Film: To Kill a Mockingbird
Release Date: December 25, 1962
Director: Robert Mulligan
Costume Designer: Rosemary Odell
Tailor: H. Huntsman & Sons, London

Background

Today marks the birthday of Gregory Peck, born April 5, 1916. Peck’s arguably most iconic role was that of the patient, humble, and earnest defense attorney Atticus Finch, a portrayal that earned Peck the Academy Award and was voted the #1 screen hero of all time in a 2003 AFI poll, outranking cinematic badasses like James Bond, Indiana Jones, and Ellen Ripley and illustrating that the most heroic strength is strength of moral character.

Based on Harper Lee’s 1960 novel, To Kill a Mockingbird chronicles a year growing up in a “tired old town” in the Depression-era South, framed by the recollections of Atticus’ precocious daughter Jean Louise (Mary Badham)—best known as “Scout”—as she observes her father’s work defending a black man who had been charged with raping a local woman. Although the trial itself was less prominent int he source material, To Kill a Mockingbird was also ranked as the top courtroom drama in AFI’s “10 Top 10” presentation in 2008.

“There just didn’t seem to be anyone or anything Atticus couldn’t explain,” Scout recalls of her thoughtful father, who sees it as his duty to instill in his two children a sense of decency, empathy, and respect for humanity as they grow into young adults. (Which I say having not yet read Lee’s follow-up novel, Go Set a Watchman, which evidently presents the once-beloved Atticus as having aged into a much different kind of person.)

What’d He Wear?

Although Atticus Finch assures his daughter that their family is poor, the country lawyer retains a relatively wide selection of three-piece suits, all cut and styled similarly, that prove suitable for seasonal rotation: dark flannel for the cooler seasons, a light-colored worsted for the intermediate months, and—most famous of all—the heroic seersucker he wears for Tom Robinson’s summertime trial.

The judge sits back in his rumpled white linen and Atticus Finch elicits testimony from fellow seersucker-wearer Heck Tate.

The judge sits back in his rumpled white linen and Atticus Finch elicits testimony from fellow seersucker-wearer Heck Tate.

Atticus is far from the only man in the courtroom seeking sartorial comfort in the July heat by embracing a cool-wearing fabric. His friend, Maycomb County Sheriff Heck Tate (Frank Overton), also wears seersucker in the form of a sports coat that unfortunately clashes with his striped shirt, and both the judge and court clerk take their positions in the front of the courtroom wearing rumpled white or off-white linen suits.

Most frequently patterned in an alternating railroad stripe, seersucker is a thin cotton fabric, made in a slack-tension weave that creates a puckered finish as the threads unevenly bunch together to produce a crinkled effect. In Dressing the Man, Alan Flusser writes that seersucker was “first discovered by the British in India as a silk fabric, the word is derived from the Hindi sirśakar (Persian shir-o-shakar, meaning “milk and sugar”).” The fabric grew in popularity during the British colonial period, popularly used for clothing in warm colonies though the durable, cheap-to-produce material was also found to be suitable for everything from bags to bed mattresses.

According to Michael Solomon, writing for Forbes, “the seersucker suit was born when Joseph Haspel, a New Orleans haberdasher, reimagined the working-class fabric as a lightweight alternative for southern businessmen.” It didn’t take long for the suit to catch on, accelerated as usual when it became a staple of Ivy fashions thanks to Princeton students during the roaring ’20s and Brooks Brothers offering their own seersucker garb to yankee gents by the following decade. Seersucker fever spread across the pond, and the natty Duke of Windsor was photographed sporting a seersucker clabber while on holiday in the Italian Riviera during the late 1940s. A half-century later, Senator Trent Lott formalized the practice of wearing seersucker suits in Congress with the establishment of “Seersucker Thursday” on National Seersucker Day, observed the second Thursday of June.

Of course, the pre-wrinkled fabric’s easy maintenance endeared it more to the everyday worker than the Riviera-summering leisure class, earning a place at the forefront of Atticus Finch’s summer wardrobe. In fact, it was reportedly Joseph Haspel, Jr., son of the suit’s Broad Street progenitor, that provided Gregory Peck with the three-piece seersucker suit he would wear for battling the summer heat and bigoted prosecution in To Kill a Mockingbird.

Production photo of Gregory Peck and Brock Peters, who plays the accused Tom Robinson.

Production photo of Gregory Peck and Brock Peters, who plays the accused Tom Robinson.

More than a hundred years after Joseph Sr. recognized “the power of the pucker”, according to the Haspel website, the brand has been re-launched by his great-granddaughter Laurie Haspel, offering a range of quality menswear from suit separates and silk ties to swimwear and sunglasses and, of course, the original seersucker suit. Haspel’s modern seersucker construction is a blend of 99% cotton with 1% elastane, offered in “Audubon” classic fit and the tapered “Toulouse” modern fit and an array of regional colors like blue bayou, fountainbleu, cayenne red, mardi green, oyster gray, and beignet tan. (Although To Kill a Mockingbird was filmed in black-and-white, contemporary promotional art suggests that Peck’s suit was colored similarly to this latter color combination in a tan-and-white stripe.)

In a recent Instagram post, Peck’s usual tailor Huntsman Savile Row wrote that they “had the privilege of providing the wardrobe for” Peck throughout To Kill a Mockingbird. I suspect that they did tailor his wardrobe and provided the non-seersucker suits, while Haspel supplied one of their signature seersucker suits. I’d welcome some clarity from anyone with more firsthand knowledge or expertise of the nature of these various associations!

Peck’s seersucker suit jacket is styled like a traditional business jacket with notch lapels and a single-breasted, two-button front with white plastic sew-through buttons matching the three-button cuffs at the end of each sleeve. The ventless jacket also has a welted breast pocket and straight hip pockets covered with narrow flaps that are rounded on the corners.

TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD

In a less tactfully chosen fabric, a three-piece suit can add a swelteringly unnecessary layer for a summer day spent fighting for justice in an unventilated Alabama courtroom. Luckily for Atticus, his suit’s waistcoat (vest) made from a matching seersucker merely adds a light-wearing sense of decorum. The single-breasted waistcoat is detailed like the suit jacket with swelled edges and white plastic buttons, all five buttoned down the front over the notched bottom, and an adjustable strap across the satin-finished back.

TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD

Next to the waistcoat’s third button is a small hole for a watch chain, which Atticus uses to run the “double Albert”-style chain of the pocket watch that he wears in one of the waistcoat’s four jetted pockets. Atticus shows the watch to a fascinated Scout, who opens the cover to read the inscription “To Atticus, my beloved husband,” on the inside, illustrating that the watch was a gift from his late wife. Scout’s inspection of the watch also shows us that it has a round white dial with Roman numerals and a 6:00 sub-dial.

Scout admires her father's timepiece. (In this earlier scene, he's wearing his cardigan over the waistcoat and trousers of his light worsted suit.)

Scout admires her father’s timepiece. (In this earlier scene, he’s wearing his cardigan over the waistcoat and trousers of his light worsted suit.)

Gregory Peck as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)

The suit’s flat front trousers rise high enough that the black leather belt is concealed under the waistcoat, though menswear tradition dictates that suspenders (braces) are the more appropriate method of holding up the trousers of a three-piece suit. The trousers are similarly detailed like his other suits with side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms.

The Ivy appropriation of seersucker suits has led to white bucks—another Ivy favorite—adopted as the unofficial shoe to wear with seersucker, however Atticus treats his seersucker more like the business suit it contextually is for him and wears a pair of cap-toe oxfords in what appears to be black leather.

The pitch darkness of Atticus’ shoes suggests black to me, though brown—even a dark brown—would be more tonally coordinated with the rest of this outfit. Atticus at least wears lighter socks that adequately bridge the contrast between the light suit trouser fabric and dark shoe leather, though Esquire‘s The Handbook of Style issues more specific advice for men seeking hosiery advice specific to seersucker: “the seersucker suit is not an excuse to wear shoes without socks—match them to either stripe.”

Atticus wears a natural straw Panama hat with a narrow black grosgrain band and a full “optimo crown”, characterized by a flat top with a raised center ridge that runs across the hat from front to back. The optimo crown is described by Village Hat Shop as “the original Panama hat style” in its description of the Jaxon Hats “Habana Cuenca” (via Village Hat Shop). Levine Hats of St. Louis also specializes in optimo crown Panama hats like the Casa Blanca (via Amazon and Levine Hats).

TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD

“Men’s stiff collars wilted by nine in the morning,” Scout narrates to illustrate the constant heat in Maycomb. Indeed, the stiffness of Atticus’ collar as well as its habit of riding higher than the tie knot suggests that he still adhered to the increasingly obsolete fashion of wearing detached collars on his shirts, a practice that had been all but phased out for everyday businessmen during the Prohibition era as companies like Van Heusen revolutionized easy-to-launder shirts with attached collars. Rather than the stuffy white contrast collar, however, Atticus favors collars made to match his shirts. (For evidence, I submit this 2013 auction listing from Nate D. Sanders, showing a pale blue striped shirt worn by Peck on screen with one of his other suits.)

Atticus also makes a more fortunate choice than Sheriff Tate when picking out a shirt to wear with his striped seersucker, foregoing his usual hairline-striped shirts in favor of a plain white or off-white cotton shirt with a front placket and rounded single-button cuffs.

Atticus’ dark tie is embroidered into a broken white diamond-shaped grid with a thick white circle overlaying where each set of lines intersect and a white broken “X” at the center of each diamond shape created. Knotted in a four-in-hand knot, all of Atticus’ ties have the habit of falling about a half-inch short of the top of his shirts’ tall collars.

TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD

In addition to the film’s famous trial sequences, Peck also wore this seersucker three-piece suit for an earlier scene when Scout, Jem (Phillip Alford), and their new pal Dill Harris (John Megna) track Atticus down at the courthouse during Tom Robinson’s indictment. It’s late summer, almost a year before the trial itself, so the lightweight cotton suiting is still seasonally appropriate.

Atticus wears the same light-colored shirt and matching point collar during the indictment but a different tie, a more amoebic-patterned tie of large paisley shapes clustered against a dark ground.

After Tom Robinson's indictment, Atticus gallantly suffers through the first of several increasingly aggressive encounters with the bigoted Bob E. Lee Ewell (James Anderson).

After Tom Robinson’s indictment, Atticus gallantly suffers through the first of several increasingly aggressive encounters with the bigoted Bob E. Lee Ewell (James Anderson).

I don’t know who made the glasses Gregory Peck wore in To Kill a Mockingbird, but Oliver Peoples, a Los Angeles luxury eyewear brand founded in 1987, released the “Gregory Peck” frames to celebrate the movie’s 50th anniversary in 2012. Inspired by Peck’s screen-worn glasses and designed in collaboration with the actor’s estate, these round-framed acetate specs come in several different colorways including a tortoise frame like he wore as Atticus Finch.

This shot had been reversed in the finished version of the film, so I "corrected" it to look as it would have been filmed.

This shot had been reversed in the finished version of the film, so I “corrected” it to look as it would have been filmed.

Earlier, I mentioned the other suits in Atticus’ wardrobe. The first we actually see him wearing on screen is made from a light-colored, semi-solid worsted wool that, aside from the material, is cut and styled just like his seersucker suit.

Atticus imparts yet another valuable life lesson onto young Scout.

Atticus imparts yet another valuable life lesson onto young Scout.

During the fall and winter, Atticus wears a darker flannel suit, perfect for the sort of weather that would require Sheriff Tate to wear a shawl-collar pea coat over a wool cardigan.

The cooler weather calls for heavier clothes, be that a shawl-collar peacoat for Sheriff Tate or a more businesslike flannel suit for the office-bound Atticus Finch.

The cooler weather calls for heavier clothes, be that a shawl-collar peacoat for Sheriff Tate or a more businesslike flannel suit for the office-bound Atticus Finch.

The decreasing temperature also finds Atticus pulling on a basket-woven wool overcoat for one scene when he returns from work to find that Scout has been fighting at school to defend his honor. For evenings at home, he drapes a wool cardigan over the waistcoat of whichever suit he had been wearing that day.

The Gun

In response to his son Jem’s constant needling him for a gun, Atticus recalls receiving his first firearm as a gift from his father when he was 13 or 14 years old:

I remember when my daddy gave me that gun. He told me that I should never point at anything in the house, and that he’d rather I shoot at tin cans in the back yard… but he said that, sooner or later, he supposed the temptation to go after birds would be too much, and that I could shoot all the blue jays I wanted—if I could hit ’em—but to remember that it was a sin to kill a mockingbird.

“Why?” asks Jem. “Well, I reckon because mockingbirds don’t do anything but make music for us to enjoy, don’t eat people’s gardens, don’t nest in the corn cribs. They don’t do one thing but just sing their hearts out for us.”

The following day, Atticus’ dormant shooting talent is called to the test when Sheriff Heck Tate, uncertain of his own abilities, hands off his bolt-action rifle for Atticus to put down a rabid dog threatening his children on their street. “Didn’t you know your daddy’s the best shot in this county?” Sheriff Tate asks a bemused Jem.

The rifle is a Krag-Jørgensen, identifiable by the horizontal magazine with its loading door extending from the right side of the rifle, below the bolt. The eagle-eyed experts at IMFDB further identified the rifle as a “sporterized” version of the full-length American Krag-Jørgensen Model 1898 with a cut-down stock, chambered for the smokeless .30-40 Krag cartridge.

Sheriff Tate's Krag-Jørgensen rifle in hand, Atticus Finch takes account of his marksmanship.

Sheriff Tate’s Krag-Jørgensen rifle in hand, Atticus Finch takes account of his marksmanship.

Developed throughout the 1880s by Captain Ole Herman Johannes Krag and gunsmith Erik Jørgensen of Norway, the original Krag-Jørgensen rifle in 8x58mm R was first adopted for Danish military service in 1889. Three years later, the U.S. Army was hosting a competition to replace the aging, single-shot “Trapdoor” Springfield with the hope of adopting a bolt-action repeating rifle. More than 50 designs were submitted, but the Krag-Jørgensen stood out from the pack and was chosen as the new American service rifle, modified to be chambered for the new proprietary .30-40 Krag cartridge and a horizontal magazine door hinge designed to open upward.

More than 500,000 full-length Krag-Jørgensen rifles and cavalry carbines (with shorter 22″ barrels) were produced by the Springfield between 1894 and 1904, when they were officially replaced by the M1903 Springfield rifle in response to lackluster performance against the clip-fed Mauser rifles wielded by the Spanish during the Spanish-American War.

Though their short reign as American military rifles was mostly over by the end of World War I, the Krag-Jørgensen lived on in the sporting world, popular for their distinctive appearance, unique side-loading magazines, and smooth actions with easy recoil. Sporterization can include any number of modifications made to military firearms for practical civilian usage, including shortening the fore-end (as seen here) as well as adding commercial optics, replacing the stock, or even re-chambering the weapon for a sporting caliber. Certain aspects of sporterization are also done for the sake of legal compliance, such as removing flash suppressors, integrated bayonets, pistol grips, and automatic-fire capability. (Sheriff Tate’s bolt-action Krag would surely be exempt from the latter.)

The reluctant rifleman aims.

The reluctant rifleman aims.

How to Get the Look

Gregory Peck as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)

Gregory Peck as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)

Long before Ben Matlock would endear himself to audiences and juries, Atticus Finch had established the seersucker suit as the earnest Southern lawyer’s courtroom uniform, illustrating how to stay cool, comfortable, and courtly in a three-piece suit while arguing fervently for justice during the peak of a long, hot summer.

  • Tan-and-white “railroad stripe” seersucker cotton tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Single-breasted 5-button waistcoat with four jetted pockets, notched bottom, and adjustable back strap
    • Flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Off-white cotton shirt with point collar, front placket, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Dark tie with white-threaded diamond grid enclosing mini “X” shapes
  • Black leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Tan cotton socks
  • Tortoise round-framed eyeglasses
  • Natural straw Panama hat with round optimo crown and narrow black grosgrain band

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Now, gentlemen, in this country, our courts are the great levelers. In our courts, all men are created equal. I’m no idealist to believe firmly in the integrity of our courts and of our jury system, that’s no ideal to me. That is a living, working reality!

The Rockford Files: Jim’s Black, White, and Pink Glenurquhart Check Jacket

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James Garner as Jim Rockford on The Rockford Files (Episode 2.21: "Foul on the First Play")

James Garner as Jim Rockford on The Rockford Files (Episode 2.21: “Foul on the First Play”)

Vitals

James Garner as Jim Rockford, wisecracking private detective and ex-convict

Los Angeles, Fall 1975

Series: The Rockford Files
Episodes:
– “The Farnsworth Strategem” (Episode 2.02, dir. Lawrence Doheny, aired 9/19/1975)
– “The Deep Blue Sleep” (Episode 2.05, dir. William Wiard, aired 10/10/1975)
– “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11, dir. Lawrence Doheny, aired 11/28/1975)
– “The Girl in the Bay City Boys Club” (Episode 2.13, dir. James Garner, aired 12/19/1975)
– “Joey Blue Eyes” (Episode 2.17, dir. Meta Rosenberg, aired 1/23/1976)
– “Foul on the First Play” (Episode 2.21, dir. Lou Antonio, aired 3/12/1976)
Creator: Roy Huggins & Stephen J. Cannell
Costume Designer: Charles Waldo

Background

James Garner, one of my favorite actors, was born today in 1928. Shortly after his decorated Korean War service that provided him with the relevant background for his eventual role as “the scrounger” in The Great Escape (1963), Garner found early acting success in films like Sayonara (1957) and his breakout role on the ABC western series Maverick. Though he would enjoy an illustrious, varied career for six decades until his death of a heart attack in 2014, the role most associate with Garner is that of the affable, beach-dwelling private detective Jim Rockford on The Rockford Files.

“If you look at Maverick and Rockford, they’re pretty much the same guy,” Garner himself recalled in his fantastic memoir, The Garner Files. “One is a gambler and the other a detective, but their attitudes are identical.”

Jim Rockford provided an opportunity for Garner to tap into his natural charisma, self-deprecating wit, and passion for motor-sports as the “$200 a day, plus expenses” investigator who speeds through L.A. in his sierra gold Pontiac Firebird Esprit. Each hour began with Jim receiving a random message on his answering machine—whether it’s a debt collector, an angry client, a jilted date, or his father “Rocky” (Noah Beery Jr.)—before launching into Mike Post and Pete Carpenter’s familiar theme song.

For my second Rockford-themed post, I wanted to focus on an outfit that represented the character’s sense of style as well as some of the series’ best-regarded episodes. Indeed, “The Farnsworth Strategem” (Episode 2.02) and “The Girl in the Bay City Boys Club” (Episode 2.13) are considered among the best of The Rockford Files‘ sophomore season.

“Instead of being a tough guy who thrives on danger, Rockford is cautious,” Garner wrote. “Rockford softened the hard-boiled detective image made popular by Humphrey Bogart, Dick Powell, and Robert Mitchum. Every real private detective I’ve ever talked to said Rockford was much closer to the truth than a lot of the tough ones on the screen.”

Rockford served as spiritual successor to Philip Marlowe, reviving the private detective genre a generation later via television rather than pulp novels. Some have cited Garner’s performance as the detective in Marlowe (1969), adapted from Raymond Chandler’s 1949 novel The Little Sister, to be his ostensible audition for the Rockford role, and Garner would pay Chandler a subtle tribute in the sole episode he directed, “The Girl in the Bay City Boys Club,” nodding to the fictional corrupt suburb Chandler developed to stand in for Santa Monica in his novels. Rockford also continues the tradition of Marlowe’s signature snark, a skill that Garner had honed as the equally charismatic and risk-averse Bret Maverick fifteen years earlier, as illustrated when Rockford pulls into a Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru when he notices he’s being tailed:

Cashier: Your order please.
Rockford: Call the police.
Cashier: Your order please!
Rockford: That’s it, you got it. There’s a guy following me in a white 1974 Datsun, California plates. Tell the police I’ll be headed south on Verdugo and for them to intercept.
Cashier: Are you nuts, mister? Is this a joke?
Rockford: Just tell them he took a shot at me… and while you’re at it could you throw in a taco and a bag of fries?

What’d He Wear?

Jim Rockford’s wardrobe ran the gamut of 1970s casual wear from leather jackets to windbreakers and even the odd Western-styled ranch suit for his various disguises, but his ostensible daily “uniform” was a sport jacket, open-neck shirt, and dark trousers with loafers. In addition to the timeless selections of dark blazers and tweed sports coats, our cheeky private eye tapped into the burgeoning Disco-era trends of colorful plaid jackets patterned with checks in varying colorways and scales.

One of my favorite jackets was a second season staple from Rockford’s closet, a finely woven black-and-white Glenurquhart plaid with a pink overcheck. This type of design is often colloquialized to “Prince of Wales check”, though the POW appellation most accurately applies specifically to a red-brown on white ground with a slate gray overcheck, according to Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man; however, Rockford’s jacket does neatly fit Flusser’s definition of Glenurquhart plaid as “a woolen or worsted suiting or coating material made with the ever popular glen plaid with an overplaid effect in both warp and filling directions.”

THE ROCKFORD FILES

Like all of Rockford’s sport jackets, this plaid worsted piece is single-breasted with notch lapels that are wide enough to be fashionable in the mid-’70s without being too broad as to date the jacket too much. The two silver shank buttons could give us permission to refer to the jacket as a “blazer” which, despite what some retailers’ marketing shortcuts would have you believe, is not a catch-all term for tailored odd jackets, though I prefer to reserve the term for solid-colored blazers or those boldly striped in the rowing tradition. There are also two smaller silver shank buttons on each sleeve cuff.

Jim Rockford doesn't want any trouble in "Pastoria Prime Pick" (Episode 2.11).

Jim Rockford doesn’t want any trouble in “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11).

Aside from the metal buttons, Rockford’s jacket is patterned and styled like a classic sports coat. The jacket has a welted breast pocket and slanted hip pockets with wide, rounded-corner flaps. The wide hip pocket flaps, long double vents, and purple-and-pink paisley lining all date the jacket to its 1970s provenance.

All Rockford wants in "Pastoria Prime Pick" (Episode 2.11) is a motel room, but an abandoned suitcase and Rita's (Smith Wordes) possessive boyfriend threaten his peace.

All Rockford wants in “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11) is a motel room, but an abandoned suitcase and Rita’s (Smith Wordes) possessive boyfriend threaten his peace.

“The Deep Blue Sleep” (Episode 2.05) begins with Rockford twice awakened by phone calls in the middle of the night, first from doomed fashion model Margo Adams (Doria Cook-Nelson) and again from his lawyer and occasional girlfriend Beth Davenport (Gretchen Corbett), hiring him to solve the mystery of what happened to Margo. He slips out of his deep blue sleep and into a hot pink shirt, which becomes his standard accompaniment with this sports coat in five different episodes. It makes sense that Rockford chooses this shirt so frequently as the pink fabric neatly coordinates with the pink horizontal stripes on his plaid jacket.

THE ROCKFORD FILES

The next time Rockford wears this plaid blazer, in “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11), he again wears it with the pink shirt to lead off the episode, set in the fictional berg of New Pastoria where Rockford is undercover as L.A. insurance man Larry Metcalf. He’s also wearing it when the action begins in the first act of “The Girl in the Bay City Boys Club” (Episode 2.13), playing poker as newspaperman Aaron Kiehl with the titular Bay City Boys Club. (In a nod to The Sting, one of his fellow poker players is played by Byron Morrow, who played Mr. Jameson from Chicago during that movie’s famous poker scene.)

Rockford reprises the outfit for a brief scene at an amusement park in “Joey Blue Eyes” (Episode 2.17), posing as Jim Taggart, the personal attorney of the titular convict retaining his services, and then again during the denouement of “Foul on the First Play” (Episode 2.21) as Rockford consoles fellow private eye Marcus (Louis Gossett Jr.) when his brother shamus is forced to hang up his shingle.

The shirt itself has a long point collar, plain front, squared breast pocket with a rectangular top yoke, and single-button cuffs with gauntlet buttons. All of the buttons are a white pearlesque plastic.

Rockford recovers from yet another bop on the head, this time received at the top of the action in "The Deep Blue Sleep" (Episode 2.05).

Rockford recovers from yet another bop on the head, this time received at the top of the action in “The Deep Blue Sleep” (Episode 2.05).

This sport jacket makes its first appearance in “The Farnsworth Stratagem” (Episode 2.02) when Rockford assumes the identity of oil tycoon J.W. Farnsworth, tapping into Garner’s own proudly Oklahoman origins to run a con investigating the syndicate that roped Detective Becker (Joe Santos) and children’s book author Audrey Wyatt (Linda Evans) into a fraudulent investment. Jim spends the first few days of the con rigged out in a beige corduroy ranch jacket and snap-front shirts, but he eventually settles into a comfortable routine, wearing this jacket that is much more Jim Rockford than it is J.W. Farnsworth.

In this episode only, he wears the jacket with the silky Qiana nylon red shirt that he wore earlier in the episode when Audrey first met with him in his trailer to help pay for him to take on Becker’s case.

Rockford finds red to be a suitable shirt for his Glenurquhart check jacket in "The Farnsworth Strategem" (Episode 2.02).

Rockford finds red to be a suitable shirt for his Glenurquhart check jacket in “The Farnsworth Strategem” (Episode 2.02).

Worn frequently across the first two seasons, this shirt has a point collar, “stacked” two-button barrel cuffs, and red buttons up the front placket. Like all of Rockford’s shirts, it has a straight hem with side vents to be worn untucked if he so desires.

As part of his oilman getup, he also wears burgundy cowboy boots, a taupe cowboy hat, and a navy blue belt with white decorative stitching and a large brass buckle. His charcoal flannel flat front trousers have then-fashionable frogmouth front pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms.

Accessorized with his oilman's belt and buckle, Rockford confronts Audrey as she continues spinning her web of deception in "The Farnsworth Strategem" (Episode 2.02).

Accessorized with his oilman’s belt and buckle, Rockford confronts Audrey as she continues spinning her web of deception in “The Farnsworth Strategem” (Episode 2.02).

Rockford tends to balance the plaid jacket and colorful shirt with flat front trousers in somber shades of gray that coordinate with the black-and-white effect of the jacket. In “The Deep Blue Sleep” (Episode 2.05) and “Joey Blue Eyes” (Episode 2.17), he wears medium gray slacks, though he opts for a charcoal wool for most other episodes.

Both the charcoal and the medium gray trousers are high-waisted with the “frogmouth” full-top pockets that were most fashionable during this decade. These pockets originated on ranch-wear and, as Western-styled clothing grew popular during the late 1960s and into the ’70s, they were increasingly seen on everything from casual slacks to dress trousers. Slanted across the front with only a short notch open on each side, frogmouth trousers are less accessible when seated but also avoid the tendency to flare out like side-seam pockets can. Rockford’s trousers have no back pockets and the bottoms are plain-hemmed.

Aside from “Joey Blue Eyes”, when his belt has a simple rounded brass single-prong buckle, Jim exclusively wears his wide black leather belt with the large shiny gold rectangular buckle with four vertical bars in the center.

Rockford puts his own Firebird up on Vern's (Warren J. Kemmerling) hydraulic lift in "Pastoria Prime Pick" (Episode 2.11).

Rockford puts his own Firebird up on Vern’s (Warren J. Kemmerling) hydraulic lift in “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11).

The declining formality of the 1970s saw the rise of loafers worn with suits and sport jackets, particularly among American men though even James Bond was sporting loafers with his double-breasted dinner suits by the end of the decade. If a well-tailored British secret agent is wearing slip-ons with his tuxedo, you better believe that a laidback southern California private eye like Jim Rockford will be wearing loafers as well, in this case a pair of black leather moc-toe loafers with gold horsebit detailing, worn with charcoal or black socks.

THE ROCKFORD FILES

Apropos the racing enthusiast who starred in Grand Prix, owned the American International Racers team in the late 1960s, and made the risky “J-turn” famous on The Rockford Files, Garner wears his own steel Heuer Carrera 3647N racing chronograph strapped to a black leather band in most episodes of The Rockford Files. He likely received the watch sometime in the mid-1960s, and a closer look (as afforded by this 2017 article at Calibre 11) reveals his name “JAMES GARNER” inscribed in white against the black dial, positioned just below the two sub-dials at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions.

Garner wore his own Heuer Carrera racing watch throughout The Rockford Files, taking a chance that viewers wouldn't be able to discern the actor's own name inscribed on the dial.

Garner wore his own Heuer Carrera racing watch throughout The Rockford Files, taking a chance that viewers wouldn’t be able to discern the actor’s own name inscribed on the dial.

In “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11), Rockford is rudely awakened in his hotel room by a trio of gun-toting thugs who rouse him from his bed and throw him to the ground while he’s dressed only in his white short-sleeved undershirt, which has a deep enough V-shaped neckline that it’s clear the undershirt would be concealed even when Jim keeps the top few buttons of his shirts undone. The scene also shows off the gold necklace Rockford wears, which Garner explains was his own when it came into play during a violent off-camera incident just after the series ended:

That’s when I got clobbered. This character was punching me through the open window! I couldn’t get out from behind the wheel because he’d grabbed hold of the gold chain around my neck and kept flailing away, and I didn’t have room to throw a punch.

Rockford is in for a rude awakening in "Pastoria Prime Pick" (Episode 2.11).

Rockford is in for a rude awakening in “Pastoria Prime Pick” (Episode 2.11).

What to Imbibe

There is precious little documentation about the provenance of Nacy L. Courey’s Age-Dated Beer, the fictional brew that was ubiquitous in movie and TV productions of the ’70s and ’80s, perhaps most recognizable as the aluminum cans that John Belushi crushes against his forehead in Animal House (1978). The generic-looking labels were available in different colorways like blue, black, and a Budweiser-style red.

Cans and bottles of Nacy L. Courey’s, “brewed from the choicest hops, rice and best barley malt,” as the labels advertise, are currently among the stocks of Earl Hays Press, an “insert house” that has provided modern and period labeling, packaging, newspapers, and more to Hollywood productions since 1915. The unique Nacy L. Courey’s label was evidently a specialty during this era, seen not only on The Rockford Files but other shows of the era including The Dukes of HazzardEight is Enough, and Magnum, P.I., to name only a few.

Rockford drinks a Nacy L. Courey's beer during his poker game at the start of "The Girl in the Bay City Boys Club" (Episode 2.13).

Rockford drinks a Nacy L. Courey’s beer during his poker game at the start of “The Girl in the Bay City Boys Club” (Episode 2.13).

While it’s impossible to enjoy the same brand of beer that Rockford had during his poker game, West Coast dwellers at least have the opportunity to pick up Jim’s late night dinner of tacos and fries from the Jack-in-the-Box drive-thru window. (The San Diego-based chain has also been expanding eastward, with locations as far east as Charlotte, Cincinnati, Indianapolis, and Nashville!)

How to Get the Look

James Garner as Jim Rockford on The Rockford Files (Episode 2.21: "Foul on the First Play")

James Garner as Jim Rockford on The Rockford Files (Episode 2.21: “Foul on the First Play”)

Like Bogie’s trench coat and fedora or Magnum’s Aloha shirts and Tigers cap, Jim Rockford followed in the tradition of big and small screen private eyes by adhering to a personal “uniform” in accordance with the era’s fashions with a wardrobe of trendy but tasteful sport jackets and neatly color-coordinated shirts such as the pink he chose to pull out the overcheck of this Glenurquhart plaid sports coat.

  • Black-and-white Glenurquhart plaid (with pink overcheck) worsted single-breasted sports coat with wide notch lapels, two silver shank buttons, welted breast pocket, wide-flapped slanted hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and long double vents
  • Pink shirt with point collar, plain front, squared breast pocket, and single-button cuffs
  • Charcoal gray wool flat front slacks with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with polished gold rectangular four-bar buckle
  • Black leather moc-toe horsebit loafers
  • Black socks
  • White cotton V-neck short-sleeve undershirt
  • Gold necklace
  • Heuer Carrera 3647N racing chronograph watch with steel case, black dial (with two sub-dials), and black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series. I also recommend grabbing a copy of the actor’s honest and entertaining memoir, The Garner Files, co-written by James Garner and Jon Winokur.

The Quote

Look, I do my job my way or I don’t do it at all.

Tony Soprano’s Yachting Clothes in “Funhouse”

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James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: "Funhouse")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: “Funhouse”)

Vitals

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, New Jersey mob boss

New Jersey, Spring 2000

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13)
Air Date: April 9, 2000
Director: Alan Taylor
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Things are good. What the fuck?

Tony Soprano can’t quite seem to believe his luck at the outset of “Funhouse”, the iconic second season finale that aired 20 years ago tonight and is considered to be among The Sopranos‘ finest hours.

All of Tony’s enemies have been vanquished in one way or another, he’s making boatloads of cash due to a lucrative calling card scam, and his daughter is graduating from high school with a promising future at a number of prestigious colleges. And yet, there’s something nagging at Tony Soprano… and it isn’t just the unfamiliar combination of a full Indian dinner followed by Artie Bucco’s potentially tainted zuppa di mussels that’s troubling his stomach.

“Never been so fuckin’ depressed… it’s all a big nothin’, life!” Tony mutters as he awakens, sobbing and sweating from a troubling fever dream that would plague him over the course of the episode. In their masterful tome The Sopranos Sessions, Matt Zoller Seitz and Alan Sepinwall cite this aspect of “Funhouse” as the clearest connection of David Chase’s affinity for the David Lynch and Mark Frost’s surreal Twin Peaks, particularly “the way the show treated dreams, fantasies, intuition, and the uncanny as legitimate sources of information about our everyday world.” Seitz and Sepinwall draw many excellent conclusions that make the book a worthy read (and re-read), including:

“It’s not my fuckin’ head,” says Tony, right before the dreams begin. “It’s my stomach.” Read as: I’m not going to figure this out intellectually, I’m going to go with my gut. Tony’s actual guts—his digestive organs—are going to work through, process, digest the matter of the informant. Pussy is the toxin in the Mob’s body politic that caused this allergic reaction. The organization’s health will only be restored after he’s been puked up or shat out.

After two years of growing suspicion and denial, Tony’s tortured gut forces him to confront the truth: his close friend, “Big Pussy” Bonpensiero (Vincent Pastore) is a police informant, a “rat” in the parlance of these wise guys. Despite battling his near-crippling case of food poisoning, Tony rounds up his two most trusted confidants—Silvio Dante (Steven Van Zandt) and “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri (Tony Sirico)—and lures their unwitting pal out to sea.

What’d He Wear?

The second act of “Funhouse” finds Tony not looking his best due to his illness—as well as a nagging sense of what he has to do—but he sensibly blends his usual mob-influenced sartorial tendencies with a practical layered look befitting a man with a job to do.

The Sopranos has nodded to its influences in classic gangster cinema, particularly the oedipal dynamic in The Public Enemy (1931) starring James Cagney. A fellow pre-Code crime drama, Scarface (1932), famously made use of an “X” motif to foreshadow violent gangland deaths, X marking the proverbial spot where mobsters would be rubbed out by their enemies. Thus, it’s fitting that a fevered Tony dresses himself in a shirt printed with “X” motifs, foreshadowing the trigger he knows he has to pull that day, arguably one of the most significant of The Sopranos62 murders and the one that would most haunt Tony through the end of the series.

My friend @TonySopranoStyle has theorized that the shirt is almost definitely a product of Burma Bibas, the New York City luxury menswear outfitter responsible for many of the printed silk short-sleeved shirts Gandolfini wore over the course of the series. Founded in 1926, the company specializes in unique and colorful silk-printed sport shirts and ties.

Tony’s black silk shirt is abstractly patterned with beige, brush-stroked maze-like squares, each overlaid with a black “X” shape and shadowed by a similar slate-gray maze square. The loose-fitting silk shirt has a camp collar, plain front, and short, elbow-length sleeves.

Tony buttons up his shirt over Carmela's protestations that he needs to stay in bed.

Tony buttons up his shirt over Carmela’s protestations that he needs to stay in bed.

Tony wears a unique beige jacket that’s a fashionable evolution of the military bomber jacket of the ’50s and the utilitarian Derby of San Francisco jacket of the ’60s: a beige silk blouson made by Paul&Shark Yachting. This raglan-sleeve “yachting jacket”, as marketed by the Italian company, consists of a beige silk shell with ribbed-knit collar, cuffs, and hem like a classic bomber. (This is a contrast to the “yachting jackets” offered by brands like Tommy Hilfiger that are generally brightly colored windbreakers with standing collars, water-resistant polyester shells, and zippered pockets.) In addition to the zip-up fly front, Tony’s jacket has a tan button at the neck like a Derby jacket with two buttons on the bottom to firmly close the jacket at the waist.

Meant to be worn for luxurious yet practical comfort aboard a yacht, Paul&Shark lined its yachting jackets for additional wind resistance. In Tony’s case, this appears to be a dark navy silk inner shell with a nylon tab that extends from the inside right of the jacket, extending the full length of the zipper to provide an extra layer that keeps wind and weather out when the zipper is fastened. @TonySopranoStyle did some additional digging and discovered that this is also a reverse shell; thus, the wearer can also wear the navy silk side out with a beige tab showing along the inside of the right zipper.

Tony's beige bomber-inspired jacket should have tipped Pussy off that an execution was afoot; the last time Tony wore this type of jacket was during Matthew Bevilacqua's execution in "From Where to Eternity" (Episode 2.09) when he sported an olive drab suede-like bomber.

Tony’s beige bomber-inspired jacket should have tipped Pussy off that an execution was afoot; the last time Tony wore this type of jacket was during Matthew Bevilacqua’s execution in “From Where to Eternity” (Episode 2.09) when he sported an olive drab suede-like bomber.

Paul&Shark was founded in 1976 by the Dini family, operating from the Magliofici Daco mill established in Italy in 1921. The brand was inspired by Paolo Dini’s trip to Maine, where he spotted the sail from an 18th century clipper inscribed Paul&Shark and thus launched the brand’s sports fashion center that specializes in an Italian-designed collection “inspired by the world of sailing and based on its elegance, performance and spirit of adventure.” Under the leadership of current president and CEO Andrea Dini, the Italian company recently made the decision to donate 20% of all e-commerce proceeds to buy ventilation machines for patients with pneumonia during the ongoing coronavirus epidemic, a characteristic choice for the company that has made a commitment to sustainability and environmental protection.

Although yachting jackets like Tony wore in “Funhouse” do not appear among the brand’s current product lineup—as of March 2020—searching used or vintage retailers or sites like eBay often yields at least a few results for beige silk Paul&Shark Yachting jackets. (For example, as of March 19, 2020, here’s one, here’s another, yet another, and one more!) You’ll note that many of the eBay selections have set-in sleeves and patch pockets with button-down flaps as opposed to the raglan sleeves and open slanted welt pockets on T’s jacket.

I was able to identify the jacket thanks to the brand’s logo, a beige-embroidered crest on the left breast that reads “PAUL&SHARK” above an embroidered shark, with the word “Yachting” scripted below it.

Tony's yachting jacket is subtly branded with the Paul&Shark logo embroidered in a matching beige thread over the left breast.

Tony’s yachting jacket is subtly branded with the Paul&Shark logo embroidered in a matching beige thread over the left breast.

Tony may not be feeling his best, but he overcomes the mental struggles that sent him slumbering through town in sweatpants in “Isabella” (Episode 1.12) and pulls on a pair of charcoal slacks, likely with double or triple reverse pleats and worn with a black leather belt. The trousers have side pockets and jetted back pockets, and the bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Tony and Silvio walk Pussy to his doom at the Channel Club docks in Monmouth Beach.

Tony and Silvio walk Pussy to his doom at the Channel Club docks in Monmouth Beach.

Tony’s black calf leather split-toe derbies are likely the same Allen Edmonds shoes that he wears with a black-and-cream glen plaid sports coat for his therapy appointment the following day, worn here with black socks to avoid any contrast between his shoes and the cuffed bottoms of his trousers.

Tony wastes no expense on the finest tarp and chains for burying his one-time friend.

Tony wastes no expense on the finest tarp and chains for burying his one-time friend.

The Sopranos makes clear that gold jewelry is a universal status symbol in La Cosa Nostra, with each mobster weighed down with pounds of gold jewelry and the stingy Paulie tellingly robbing Pussy’s corpse of his gold crucifix, diamond horseshoe ring, and diamond-studded Rolex “President” with its distinctive red dial before they send him off into the sea. (Paulie’s decision to rob his former friend of his jewelry was characteristically impulsive, greedily opportunistic, and ultimately tactless as all that gold would have given Pussy a little extra weight to ensure he remained buried at sea… not that he would need much more.)

Tony himself sports a regular complement of gold that remained relatively consistent from the end of the first season throughout the rest of the series, all of which has been featured extensively by my friend @TonySopranoStyle‘s excellent Instagram account. The “skip” wears his usual rings, a gold wedding band on the third finger of his left hand and his usual bypass ruby-and-diamonds gold pinky ring on the opposing hand, as well as his gold St. Jerome medallion on a thin gold necklace.

The 18-karat gold link bracelet on Tony’s wrist consists of a custom fancy curb link with what @TonySopranoStyle describes as “if a Cuban curbed link chain and an Italian Figaro link chain with a twist had a baby,” fastened with a safety clasp that provides more continuity than a “lobster”-style clasp. My friend Jeff, another BAMF Style reader and The Sopranos fan and enthusiast, purchased a very similar 14-karat bracelet from Braccio, a shop in East Rutherford, New Jersey, that—due to its proximity—may indeed have provided jewelry worn by Tony or his crew.

Throughout most of The Sopranos‘ run, Tony asserts his leadership with his Rolex Day-Date “President” in 18-karat yellow gold with a champagne gold dial. This luxury self-winding chronometer’s executive connotations have made it the choice of world leaders since its the refined President (or “Presidential”) three-piece link bracelet was presented in 1956 alongside the then-new Day-Date, and it has been associated with several American heads of state in the decades to follow from Tony’s own beau idéal JFK to LBJ. Upon its introduction, the Day-Date was the first watch to include both the full day of the week and the date, presented across the top of the dial and through a window at the 3:00 position, respectively.

Tony’s particular Rolex is ref. 18238, which BAMF Style reader Chris helpfully differentiated from the oft-misidentified ref. 118238 as Tony’s watch has polished lugs and a heavier bracelet. The watch is waterproof to a maximum depth of 330 feet, resistant to the waves splashing on the yacht’s deck in rough weather but ensuring its destruction had Tony been the one pitched into the sea off Monmouth Beach instead of his former friend.

You could hardly ask for a better shot that captures all of Tony's jewelry and accessories.

You could hardly ask for a better shot that captures all of Tony’s jewelry and accessories.

For budget-minded readers looking to evoke the general look and functionality of Tony’s gold Day-Date, I tend to recommend either of these Seiko models: the quartz Seiko SGF206 with its similar fluted bezel or the automatic Seiko SNKK52 with its President-like bracelet. The gold-plated Peugeot 1029WT quartz watch goes the extra step of resembling the Day-Date President dial with its day window across the top and Roman numeral markers, though its affordable price tag comes at the cost of sacrificing the quality that makes a prestigious watch worth owning.

All of these watches tend to be available for less than $150… as opposed to the upwards of $10,000 (and often, much more!) that one should expect to drop for even a used Rolex President.


“Let’s go down below, check out the mahogany,” Tony issues when all is still convivial aboard the 50-foot craft. When down below, the two lines are drawn: in their black and tan color scheme, Tony, Silvio, and Paulie not only coordinate with each other but also echo the boat’s interior; on the other hand, the doomed Pussy is the clear outsider in his blue tracksuit, contrasting with the three friends with whom he used to be united that now face him as judge, jury, and executioner and also, sadly, echoing the colors of the sea into which his body would soon be disposed.

What to Imbibe

“We got any good tequila?” Pussy asks, possibly hoping to drunkenly charm his old pals into letting him go but more likely just wanting to take his inevitable punishment with a more blissfully altered mind. Tony smirks and nods to Paulie, who digs under the bar and slides out three shot glasses with a bottle of Jose Cuervo Especial Gold, one of the most recognizable tequilas in the world. It may not be the best remedy for Tony’s tummy, and he visibly hesitates but eventually takes the shot, steeling himself for the unthinkable task of having to murder his friend.

Emboldened by tequila, Pussy continues spouting tall tales about the 26-year-old Puerto Rican mistress he had supposed shacked up with... until Tony bursts his bubble by asking: "did she even really exist?"

Emboldened by tequila, Pussy continues spouting tall tales about the 26-year-old Puerto Rican mistress he had supposed shacked up with… until Tony bursts his bubble by asking: “did she even really exist?”

Counting all of its tequila entities, Jose Cuervo makes the best-selling tequila in the world, having captured more than a third of global market share and about the same in U.S. market share as of July 2013. While its Especial products are mixto tequilas made from at least 51% agave, Jose Cuervo also offers its Tradicional Silver and Reposado varieties, both 100% agave.

As Tony is riding with Silvio and Pussy to the boat, we get a glimpse—a fever dream? a forecast?—of Tony enjoying a Chinese takeout dinner with his family that evening, sharing the news of his boat purchase before Meadow announces her choice to attend Columbia. For this family dinner, Tony’s drinking the uncharacteristic choice of Miller Lite, poured from a long-necked bottle into a glass.

Tony wearing this same outfit during the "dinner" dream in mid-car ride lulls the viewer—and Pussy, by extension—into a false sense of security. But, like Tony, we're shaken back to reality and the fact that Tony's day didn't just include buying a boat.

Tony wearing this same outfit during the “dinner” dream in mid-car ride lulls the viewer—and Pussy, by extension—into a false sense of security. But, like Tony, we’re shaken back to reality and the fact that Tony’s day didn’t just include buying a boat.

While we know Tony is a die-hard Scotch drinker, he’s no stranger to enjoying a beer at a barbecue or bar, most typically Budweiser or Heineken though we also see him drinking Beck’s, Bud Light, Budweiser Select, Coffaro, Dos Equis, Löwenbräu, Miller Genuine Draft, Miller High Life, Molson, Rolling Rock, and Sam Adams.

What to Listen to

As paralleled years later in “Kaisha”, the sixth season finale, “Funhouse” features the characters listening to fellow New Jersey-ite Frank Sinatra on screen while the episode itself is bookended by a mournful, non-diegetic track by The Rolling Stones. In this case, the Stones song is “Thru and Thru” from the band’s 1994 album Voodoo Lounge and notable for being one of the few songs by the band to feature guitarist Keith Richards on leading vocals. Despite being the first album without Bill Wyman, the band’s bassist for three decades since it was founded, Voodoo Lounge was considered a return to form and would be awarded a Grammy for Best Rock Album.

The Sinatra track is another relative “deep cut”. When the doomed Pussy descends into the boat’s interior quarters, he finds a stereo and puts on “Baubles, Bangles, and Beads”, the ninth track from the 1967 album Francis Albert Sinatra & Antônio Carlos Jobim. Ol’ Blue Eyes had first recorded the Robert C. Wright, George Forrest, and Alexander Borodin in December 1958 for Come Dance with Me!, the swinging Capitol concept album that would be the crooner’s most successful, spending two and a half years on the Billboard charts and eventually winning the Grammy Award for Album of the Year. However, it wasn’t this boisterous and brassy version that underscored Pussy’s last few moments of relative peace but the leisurely paced, bossa nova-style recording that Sinatra cut with Jobim in early 1967.

An interesting coincidence is that both “Thru and Thru” and “Baubles Bangles, and Beads” were the penultimate track on their respective albums.

The Gun

“Not in the face, okay? You’ll give me that?” Pussy begs when the small talk has run out and he knows his time is up. Tony, Silvio, and Paulie put down their shot glasses and and pull out their pistols to kill a man that had been a brother to them all. The two subordinates take their cues from Tony as he pulls the SIG-Sauer P226 from his waistband and thumbs off the safety. In addition to being the first draw, Tony takes the first shot, clipping Pussy in the right side of his chest.

Tony fires the shot heard 'round the yacht from his SIG-Sauer P226.

Tony fires the shot heard ’round the yacht from his SIG-Sauer P226.

While Glock pistols are arguably the most commonly seen on The Sopranos, SIG-Sauer models are also frequently carried and used by major characters. The German-based company formed in 1976, uniting Swiss weapons manufacturer Schweizerische Industrie Gesellschaft (SIG) with German manufacturer J.P. Sauer & Sohn. SIG had just introduced its revolutionary P220 semi-automatic pistol as a replacement for the Swiss Army, kicking off a series of wildly successful pistols that would be adopted by military forces and law enforcement agencies across the globe.

Introduced in 1983, the full-size P226 was one of the most successful of this series. SIG-Sauer had hoped that the P226 would be a viable contender in the trials to adopt a new American military service pistol, which eventually went to Beretta, but the P226 and its compact P228 and P229 variants would all be swiftly adopted by many branches of the U.S. government and military as well as police departments from coast to coast.

The SIG P226 was originally chambered only for the universal 9x19mm Parabellum cartridge, though variants in .40 S&W and .357 SIG were also offered as those calibers were developed in 1990 and 1994, respectively. According to its listing on The Golden Closet, James Gandolfini’s screen-used P226 was chambered in 9mm—as is common for film and TV productions—and had serial number U124-137, indicating that it was an early model likely manufactured in 1985.

Paulie and Silvio flank Tony as they take his lead in firing into their former friend. They honor his request not to be shot in the face but pop him full of nines before he can fulfill his second request of sitting down for his execution.

Paulie and Silvio flank Tony as they take his lead in firing into their former friend. They honor his request not to be shot in the face but pop him full of nines before he can fulfill his second request of sitting down for his execution.

(For what it’s worth, Paulie is armed with a Beretta 92FS pistol while Silvio carries a flashier matte stainless Smith & Wesson 5946 pistol. Photos of all three screen-used firearms, courtesy of The Golden Closet, can be found on IMFDB.)

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: "Funhouse")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: “Funhouse”)

How to Get the Look

Tony Soprano dresses for another seagoing assassination in light silky layers that are contextually appropriate for an ostensible day of yachting as well as comfortably loose enough for a man whose guts are rebelling against him.

  • Black with X-patterned beige-and-slate brush-stroked maze square-printed silk short-sleeved shirt with camp collar and plain front
  • Beige silk raglan-sleeve Paul & Shark reversible “yachting jacket” with bomber-style ribbed-knit collar, cuffs, and hem, zippered fly-front with neck button and two waistband buttons, dark navy reversible shell lining, and slanted welt pockets
  • Charcoal reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt with silver-toned square single-prong buckle
  • Black calf leather apron-toe derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Rolex Day-Date “President” 18238 chronometer watch in 18-karat yellow gold with champagne-colored dial and “President” link bracelet
  • Gold curb-chain link bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with bypassing ruby and diamond stones
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series, and follow my friend @TonySopranoStyle on Instagram! I also highly recommend The Sopranos Sessions as an essential reading companion for fans of the series.

The Quote

Why you makin’ me do this, you fat fuckin’ miserable piece of shit?

The Long Good Friday: Bob Hoskins’ White Striped Jacket

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Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Vitals

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand, ambitious English gangster

London, Spring 1979

Film: The Long Good Friday
Release Date: November 3, 1980
Director: John Mackenzie
Costume Designer: Tudor George

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today is Good Friday, a liturgical observance often overshadowed by Easter but certainly not overlooked in the world of British gangster cinema thanks to The Long Good Friday. Considered among the top 25 British movies ever made in separate polls by BFI and EmpireThe Long Good Friday has been a frequent request by BAMF Style readers including Dominic, Scott, and Wendi (and thank you, Wendi, for sending me the DVD copy used to source these screenshots!)

The title was intentionally chosen to suggest a tonal alignment with the works of Raymond Chandler, and our boisterous anti-hero, Harold Shand, would be a welcome presence in any noir. Specifically written for the actor, the role of Harold provided Bob Hoskins with his breakthrough performance as a London gangster seeking to take his enterprises in a legitimate direction, though he can’t outrun his criminal legacy as he finds his promising world collapsing among mob hits and bomb scares.

Together with the only person he can trust, the vivacious Victoria (Helen Mirren), Harold hosts a “hands across the ocean” party on his yacht to bring together his backers, ranging from the American Mafia to the crooked cops and city councilors who helped him rise to his position and are united in Harold’s entrepreneurial dream of building “a new London”:

Listen, sweetheart, I’m settin’ up the biggest deal in Europe with the hardest organization since Hitler stuck a swastika on his jockstrap!

What’d He Wear?

After Harold is picked up from the airport in a beige striped suit and printed gold silk tie, he changes into the more laidback springtime-appropriate outfit of an off-white striped sport jacket and open-neck shirt for an afternoon aboard his yacht with Victoria and their guests.

The creamy white sports coat is patterned with blue pinstripes and made from a napped cloth that may be a summer-weight woolen flannel, though I wouldn’t be surprised if cashmere was also part of the soft but structured jacket’s construction. The notch lapels are a restrained, moderate width, more consistent with the fashions of the following decade than the late ’70s production, and they roll to two ivory plastic buttons that mimic the small three-button cuffs at the end of each sleeve. Harold’s jacket has roped sleeveheads, a long single vent, a welted breast pocket, and patch pockets on the hips.

Victoria provides a charming diplomatic counter to Harold when dealing with his crooked colleagues.

Victoria provides a charming diplomatic counter to Harold when dealing with his crooked colleagues.

Harold’s light blue shirt has a sheen suggestive of silk, an appropriate shirting for a gangster suited to living the good life… and showing everyone else that he can afford it. The shirt has a long point collar, front placket, and breast pocket. Rather than double (French) cuffs, Harold’s shirt has squared single cuffs that are fastened with a set of double-faced gold chain-link cuff links.

Note the single layer of fabric comprising Harold's shirt cuffs, unlike the usual double cuffs worn with cuff links. Single cuffs are typically reserved for the most formal shirts worn with a white tie dress code.

Note the single layer of fabric comprising Harold’s shirt cuffs, unlike the usual double cuffs worn with cuff links. Single cuffs are typically reserved for the most formal shirts worn with a white tie dress code.

Harold counters his flashier jacket with subdued trousers in a dark slate blue, though the flared bottoms are a concession to ’70s fashion trends.

His black leather belt has a unique gold-toned buckle with a rounded horseshoe-shaped single-prong frame hinged through a half-moon gold piece on the end of the belt strap, similar to contemporary belts issued in the late 1970s by Italian luxury fashion houses like Ferragamo and Gucci. (Interestingly, the belt is seen worn with the half-moon gold piece positioned both to the left and the right, a continuity error that would occur due over several costume changes without paying attention to what direction the belt was fed through.)

Harold's belt.

Harold’s belt.

While Harold doesn’t match the color of his belt and shoe leather, he does coordinate their unique fashion-forwardness, sporting a pair of taupe leather plain-toe loafers with gold bit detailing and dark hard leather outsoles raised heels, an evolution of the original horsebit loafer that Gucci had pioneered in the 1950s.

Harold offers a tour to the American Mafioso Charlie (Eddie Constantine), who's dressed more like a conservative businessman while Harold's affected dress and accessories are more consistent with the image of a successful gangster.

Harold offers a tour to the American Mafioso Charlie (Eddie Constantine), who’s dressed more like a conservative businessman while Harold’s affected dress and accessories are more consistent with the image of a successful gangster.

On his right wrist, Harold wears a gold ID bracelet on a thick gold curb-chain link bracelet.

Cigarette in one hand, drink in the other, Harold greets the crowd he brought together as part of his "hands across the ocean" enterprise.

Cigarette in one hand, drink in the other, Harold greets the crowd he brought together as part of his “hands across the ocean” enterprise.

Harold wears more gold on his left hand as well, including a signet ring on his pinky. His digital quartz watch, is also gold-plated with a black display panel and green LED “always-on” display. (For additional looks at the watch, I invite horology enthusiasts who don’t mind potential spoilers to click here and here.)

Based on the shape of the case with its four gold pushers, display layout, and the gold-finished expanding band, I suspect that Harold’s watch is either a Seiko or Timex digital chronograph, specifically the 1970s version of the gold-finished stainless watch that would evolve into the modern Men’s T78677 Indiglo watch still available and affordable today (via Amazon). Of course, Harold couldn’t have worn an Indiglo as that technology wasn’t introduced until 1986, and it would have been a simple “Alarm Chronograph” (like this vintage Timex on eBay) dressing his wrist.

Modern viewers may be surprised by the status-obsessed Harold's choice to wear a digital watch, but it's important to remember that this was filmed in 1979, a time when digital watches were hot technology with even James Bond wearing them exclusively.

Modern viewers may be surprised by the status-obsessed Harold’s choice to wear a digital watch, but it’s important to remember that this was filmed in 1979, a time when digital watches were hot technology with even James Bond wearing them exclusively.

Note that Hoskins is definitely not wearing the striped jacket in the above screenshot. Instead, after finding out that his allies are getting killed, Harold changes into a more functional beige suede raglan-sleeve blouson as he heads out with his remaining men to find answers.

The hip-length, zip-up blouson has a flat collar and single-button cuffs. The four external pockets consist of two bellows pockets on the chest that each close with a two-button flap with welted side-entry hand pockets just below them.

Clad for work rather than play, Harold confers with his crooked cop pal Parky (Dave King).

Clad for work rather than play, Harold confers with his crooked cop pal Parky (Dave King).

Harold would wear this jacket again for most action the following day, though with a green printed shirt and light beige trousers.

What to Imbibe

Yeah, Barbara’s got really religious in her old age, isn’t she? Church three times today, it’s Good Friday! Have a Bloody Mary.

Harold and Victoria prepare for their soiree by pre-gaming with a Bloody Mary each, poured from a pitcher that Harold wisely keeps within arm’s length. Also within arm’s length are the ostensible ingredients, including the requisite vodka—Smirnoff, in this case—as well as Worcestershire sauce, and… Angostura bitters?

While celery bitters are often recommended for Bloody Marys, I’d never thought of Angostura as a potential ingredient until I saw it on Harold’s bar cart. Sure enough, the Angostura site includes a recipe they christen “Bloody & Bitter” that combines gin (or rum!) and tomato juice with a blend of fascinating ingredients including mango nectar, tamarind chutney, and a quarter-ounce of Angostura bitters for what must make for a fascinating flavor profile. This is most assuredly not what Harold’s drinking, but it could be a worthy alternative to consider.

For something a little more traditional, these Bloody Mary recipes from Food Network and Sify Bawarchi call for a touch of Angostura bitters into a balance of vodka and tomato juice, supplemented by the usual Worcestershire, hot sauce, salt and pepper, and lemon.

Of course, the Bloody Mary’s charm derives from just how much it can be customized to tailor one’s tastes with any assortment of options—typically on the savory side—considered to be acceptable additions from cayenne pepper and clam juice to cheese cubes and even raw oysters. (Click here to see your humble blogger enjoying one boasting shrimp at Harry’s Grill in Anna Maria Island, Florida, last month!) As written in the Mr. Boston Official Bartender’s Guide, “the Bloody Mary has essentially become the ‘meat loaf’ of cocktails. Almost anything goes as long as it’s recognizable in the end.”

After Harold fills Victoria's glass, he disregards her advice to "lay off the vodka" when he pours more Smirnoff directly into his Bloody Mary.

After Harold fills Victoria’s glass, he disregards her advice to “lay off the vodka” when he pours more Smirnoff directly into his Bloody Mary.

Fortified by their vodka and tomato juice, Harold and Victoria are ready to greet their party guests, serving plenty of Moët & Chandon Imperial Brut champagne.

The Moët & Chandon champagne house was established by French vintner Claude Moët in 1743 and remains one of the largest and most prestigious champagne producers more than 275 years later. The Imperial Brut champagne was first bottled in the 1860s and quickly became Moët’s best-selling brand.

Cheers!

Cheers!

Finally, when the going gets tough, Harold and his inner circle retreat to his office on the yacht, where he keeps a bottle of Teacher’s Highland Cream blended Scotch whisky.

The whisky’s appellation refers not to any origins in the world of education but rather to the family of William Teacher, who started selling whisky in 1830. After William’s death, his sons took charge of the company, registering the brand in 1884 and opening a distillery in Ardmore in 1898 to ensure having a supply of smoked peat single malt whisky to include in its signature blend. The following century saw introduction to a post-Prohibition American market and a series of mergers and acquisitions that has landed the modern Teachers’ Highland Cream brand among the vaulted lineup of spirits owned by the Beam Suntory subsidiary.

How to Get the Look

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Though a proudly British gangster, Harold Shand has a clear Italian influence in his dress, from his fashion-forward leather-wear to his gold jewelry and accessories.

  • Cream (with blue pinstripes) napped cashmere/flannel-blend single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and long single vent
  • Light blue silk shirt with long point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and single cuffs
    • Gold chain-link cuff links
  • Dark slate blue flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with unique gold-toned horseshoe-shaped single-prong buckle with half-moon frame extension
  • Taupe leather plain-toe bit loafers
  • Dark socks
  • Gold ID bracelet with curb chain-link bracelet
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Dgital quartz chronograph watch with gold-finished stainless steel case, black display panel, and green LED “always-on” display on 18mm expansion band

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

You don’t go crucifyin’ people outside of church, not on Good Friday!

Apollo 13: Gene Kranz’s Famous White Vest

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Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

Vitals

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz, determined, no-nonsense NASA flight director

Houston, Texas, April 1970

Film: Apollo 13
Release Date: June 30, 1995
Director: Ron Howard
Costume Designer: Rita Ryack

Background

Okay, Houston, we’ve had a problem here…

Apollo 13 astronaut Jack Swigert first transmitted this famous (and oft-misquoted) message 50 years ago today at 3:08 AM (GMT) on Tuesday, April 14, 1970, soon repeated by the mission commander Jim Lovell: “Uh, Houston, we’ve had a problem.” (At the Apollo Mission Control Center in Houston, it was still 10:08 PM on Monday, April 13.)

The craft had launched three days prior from Kennedy Space Center, manned by Swigert, Fred Haise, and mission commander Jim Lovell. The mission was intended to be the third of the American space program that would land on the Moon until the notorious “problem”—an explosion resulting from a failed oxygen tank in the service module—forced the three-man crew and their mission controllers in Houston to improvise solutions that ultimately resulted in the three astronauts safely returning to Earth, splashing down in the South Pacific on April 17 when they were swiftly met by a U.S. Navy recovery team.

While Apollo 13 was technically unsuccessful in its initial objective of a lunar landing, the mission and its outcome have been deemed “a successful failure” due to how different individuals, teams, and departments were able to work together in as tight timeframe to solve the almost-impossible task of bringing the three astronauts home safely, requiring not only the best efforts of Lovell, Haise, and Swigert, but also ingenuity and dedication from the Mission Control team centered in Houston under the “tough and competent” leadership of flight director Gene Kranz.

Gene Kranz (center, in white vest) celebrates Apollo 13's successful splashdown on April 17, 1970.

Gene Kranz (center, in white vest) celebrates Apollo 13’s successful splashdown on April 17, 1970.

A father of six by the time he coordinated Apollo 13’s safe return, Kranz had served his first shift as NASA Flight Director during the Gemini IV mission in 1965 when astronaut Ed White became the first American to walk in space. Kranz, his Mission Control team, and the three astronauts would all be awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom later in 1970, and the flight director himself would be ranked the second most popular space hero, behind only Neil Armstrong, in a 2010 Space Foundation survey.

Famous for his cool head under pressure as well as his white homemade vests, Kranz would be portrayed by Ed Harris in Apollo 13, the 1995 blockbuster acclaimed for its realism and nominated for nine Academy Awards, including Best Supporting Actor for Harris’ performance. (Harris’ first foray into space cinema was his early role as John Glenn in 1983’s The Right Stuff.)

What’d He Wear?

“Mrs. Kranz has pulled out the old needle and thread again,” Jerry Bostick (Ray McKinnon) comments to a colleague when a package arrives for Gene Kranz at Mission Control in Houston on launch day. “The last one looked like he bought it off a gypsy,” the man responds.

“Thank you, Tom,” Kranz receives the package. “I was starting to get worried.” From the tissue paper, Kranz pulls out a neatly folded white waistcoat, already decorated with the Apollo 13 mission badge. “I like that one, Gene!” he hears from a fellow Mission Control engineer as he holds the vest up for inspection, eventually donning it to great applause from his team. “Save it for splashdown, guys,” the humble leader responds with a smirk.

Gene Kranz straightens out his newest waistcoat minutes before the launch of Apollo 13. Note that he correctly wears the bottom button undone.

Gene Kranz straightens out his newest waistcoat minutes before the launch of Apollo 13. Note that he correctly wears the bottom button undone.

The real Gene Kranz's off-white faille vest. (Source: SmithsonianMag.com. Photo credit: Eric Long.)

The real Gene Kranz’s off-white faille vest. (Source: SmithsonianMag.com. Photo credit: Eric Long.)

In the five years that Gene Kranz had served as NASA flight director leading up to Apollo 13, the vests handsewn for him by his wife Marta had become his trademark, continuing her previous tradition of making scarves for pilots in Kranz’s Air Force squadrons.

“All the wives sewed, and I began making vests for Gene,” Marta Kranz recalled in an April 2010 article by Owen Edwards for Smithsonian Magazine. “Gene wanted some kind of symbol for his team to rally around. I suggested a vest… There were three Mission Control teams—red, white and blue—and Gene’s was the white team, so his vests were always white.”

Kranz recognized that his vest was “an immediate hit” when he first wore one for Gemini IV. “From then on, I put on a new vest on the first shift of every mission.”

Photos from other missions depict Kranz celebrating splashdowns in more colorful waistcoats—such as this one in a patriotic red, white, and blue sequined stripe for the final lunar mission, Apollo 17—but the uncertainty of the Apollo 13 result kept the stoic flight director in his white vest through the end. Several of Kranz’s mission vests have been sold among other pieces of memorabilia from his storied career, though the white faille vest from Apollo 13 remains proudly displayed at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum (as seen at right).

To recreate Kranz’s famous Apollo 13 vest for the movie, Rita Ryack’s costume design team turned to the best source possible: Marta Kranz. After nearly 30 swatches of sample fabrics were sent to Marta to evaluate, a discovery in a film warehouse yielded the appropriate off-white faille. With the Marta-approved material in hand, the costume team got to work, crafting the single-breasted, five-button waistcoat with its uniquely dog-eared pocket flaps and the creamy tonal-striped back lining, patterned with small diamonds among the striping, with its adjustable back strap.

As the crew of Apollo 13 prepare for reentry and splashdown, Kranz tidies up his appearance, fastening his tab collar and tightening his tie. He was never seen without his trademark white vest throughout the duration of the mission.

As the crew of Apollo 13 prepare for reentry and splashdown, Kranz tidies up his appearance, fastening his tab collar and tightening his tie. He was never seen without his trademark white vest throughout the duration of the mission.

Worn on the left side of Kranz’s vest was a replica button of the distinctive Apollo 13 mission badge, designed by New York artist Lumen Winter with artwork completed by Manned Spacecraft Center (MSC) artist Norman Tiller.

Originally conceptualized by Lovell himself, the patch features three horses crossing the sky above the Earth to symbolize the three-person crews of the Apollo program. In addition to “APOLLO XIII” in white across the top with “EX LUNA, SCIENTIA” along the bottom. As Lovell explains, this Latin translation for “From the Moon, knowledge,” referenced the Naval Academy’s “Ex scientia, tridens” motto, meaning “Through knowledge, seapower.” Notably, this was the only Apollo mission badge to omit the names of the crew; fortuitous, as the last-minute replacement of Ken Mattingly with the measles-immune Jack Swigert would have rendered the badge inaccurate.

APOLLO 13

The film’s Gene Kranz rises about the oft-chided NASA engineer “uniform” of short-sleeved shirts and ties, wearing long-sleeved shirts with tab collars though he often unsnaps the tab after a long day commanding the White Team. (He wears his ID badge clipped to the breast pockets of his shirts, mostly concealed by the vest.)

Even when a tie is worn appropriately tightened to the neck, an unfastened tab collar can be a jarring effect. Kranz likely opted for snap-tabs rather than button-tabs as these could be more quickly fastened or unfastened with one hand, saving time and dexterity for a busy man with many conflicting priorities at one time.

Even when a tie is worn appropriately tightened to the neck, an unfastened tab collar can be a jarring effect. Kranz likely opted for snap-tabs rather than button-tabs as these could be more quickly fastened or unfastened with one hand, saving time and dexterity for a busy man with many conflicting priorities at one time.

Okay, guys… we’re goin’ to the Moon!

For the first day of the Apollo 13 mission, April 11, 1970, Kranz dresses in a characteristically patriotic color scheme that would become familiar over the week to follow, never deviating from a palette of red, white, and blue with gray accents.

Apropos his leadership of the designated “White Team”, Kranz wears a white shirt with a snap-closed tab collar, front placket, breast pocket, and single-button cuffs. His navy tie is patterned with sets of four “downhill”-direction stripes that alternate between gray and red. A silver horizontal tie clasp is clipped onto the tie, though not onto the shirt so it merely adds weight to the tie without serving the function of keeping the tie from swinging freely. This would mark the last appearance of both this tie and tie clasp.

Day 1: Kranz at the controls.

Day 1: Kranz at the controls.

Let’s work the problem, people. Let’s not make things worse by guessin’.

Kranz’s White Team is back on duty on the evening of April 13, working well into the following day to try to solve the problem reported aboard Apollo 13. Kranz wears a pale blue shirt that more notably contrasts under the off-white fabric of his vest. Styled the same as his white shirt, Kranz is always seen wearing this shirt with the cuffs unbuttoned and rolled up his forearms and his tab collar unsnapped, though he also loosens his tie and unbuttons his collar once the getting gets even tougher.

The flight director wears another patriotically striped repp tie, patterned with balanced burgundy and gray block stripes against a navy ground with a thin white stripe bordering the bottom of each gray stripe.

Day 4: NASA may have the technology to send humans into space, onto the moon, and back, but their overhead projectors leave some functionality to be desired. Rather than waiting for a fix, Kranz rolls up the screen and uses chalk on the blackboard to formulate a plan to coordinate Lovell, Haise, and Swigert's safe return.

Day 4: NASA may have the technology to send humans into space, onto the Moon, and back, but their overhead projectors leave some functionality to be desired. Rather than waiting for a fix, Kranz rolls up the screen and uses chalk on the blackboard to formulate a plan to coordinate Lovell, Haise, and Swigert’s safe return.

With all due respect, sir, I believe this is going to be our finest hour.

Picking up with Mission Control on April 15, Kranz is wearing the same tie as he had the past few days, though with a clean white shirt that goes through plenty of rumpling and wrinkling as he continues to wear this same outfit over the following three days until the astronauts are safely back home. In fact, it’s likely that changing into this new shirt between April 14 and 15 was the only variation in Kranz’s attire from the night of the “problem” until the reentry on April 17.

Aside from the first day of the mission (and certain continuity errors), Kranz wears a gold-toned tie clasp in an elongated hexagonal shape with three descending rectangles against a cream “zig-zag” enamel filling.

Kranz takes his job and professional appearance seriously and is depicted taking a brief moment on the 17th to tighten his tie, refasten his collar and cuffs, and button up his vest for the moment of truth as the Odyssey command module reentered the Earth’s atmosphere.

Day 7: Kranz celebrates with the White Team after a job well done.

Day 7: Kranz celebrates with the White Team after a job well done.

Each day in the office, Kranz wears a pair of dark navy flat front trousers with frogmouth front pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms that break over his black leather shoes.

We rarely see any of Kranz’s shoes, but they appear to be cap-toe oxfords in a black leather that coordinates with his belt, which closes through a rectangular silver-toned box-frame buckle.

Tense moments at Mission Control in Houston with little to do but wait.

Tense moments at Mission Control in Houston with little to do but wait.

On his right wrist, Kranz wears a nickel-plated POW/MIA bracelet. This is a slight anachronism as these commemorative bracelets were not developed until later in 1970 by the California student group Voices in Vital America (VIVA), but they serve as an illustrative indicator of Kranz’s patriotism and dedication to bringing Americans home at all costs.

The name etched on Kranz’s memorial bracelet is LTC Harrison Klinck with the date 11/1/67. According to HonorStates.org, Harrison Hoyt Klinck was born in Los Angeles and joined the U.S. Air Force, rising to the rank of lieutenant colonel during the Vietnam War. A member of the 469th Tactical Fighter Squadron, the Thunderchief Fighter (F-105D) he was flying crashed on a mission over North Vietnam on November 19, 1967 (suggesting that the bracelet’s etched date of “11/1/67” is an error.) Lieutenant Colonel Klinck’s remains were recovered in August 1985 and identified two months later. A commissioned fighter pilot in the U.S. Air Force, Kranz may have felt a kinship with the fellow USAF aviator.

Ed Harris reportedly based Gene Kranz's quietly emotional reaction on how the real Kranz reacted when recalling his emotions at the time of the successful reentry. It's perhaps significant that this scene, celebrating the safe return of three American heroes presumed missing forever, provides the clearest shot of Kranz's POW/MIA bracelet honoring another missing American hero.

Ed Harris reportedly based Gene Kranz’s quietly emotional reaction on how the real Kranz reacted when recalling his emotions at the time of the successful reentry. It’s perhaps significant that this scene, celebrating the safe return of three American heroes presumed missing forever, provides the clearest shot of Kranz’s POW/MIA bracelet honoring another missing American hero.

While NASA astronauts were famously equipped with Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” chronographs since their official authorization in March 1965, Kranz was a land-based engineer with no need for an expensive wristwatch that could survive in orbit. Yet, precision was still essential to his work and his timepiece would need to serve him without fail in a role where every second counts. The real-life Kranz wore a Seiko 5 6119-8460 Sports Diver throughout his NASA career, including the Apollo 11 lunar landing and the Apollo 13 rescue.

As Kranz, Ed Harris wears a cushion-cased steel dive watch with a blue-and-red “Pepsi” bezel on a tapered steel three-piece link bracelet. While likely not a ref. 6119-8460 like the real Kranz wore, Harris’ watch indeed appears to be a Seiko automatic diver, likely the Seiko 6139-6002 “Pepsi Pogue” with its 41mm cushion case and two pusher buttons at the 2:00 and 4:00 positions. The dark blue dial with its 3:00 day-date window and 6:00 sub-register suggests that this was the AH001M model, which retailed for $100 in 1969 according to this catalog listing.

Though not the same model as the real Gene Kranz wore, Ed Harris' period-correct Seiko in Apollo 13 still has associations with the American space program.

Though not the same model as the real Gene Kranz wore, Ed Harris’ period-correct Seiko 6139-6002 in Apollo 13 still has associations with the American space program.

The “Pepsi Pogue” received its nickname from Colonel William Pogue, one of “the original 19” from NASA Astronaut Group 5 (which also included Haise, Mattingly, and Swigert), who wore his personal yellow-dialed Seiko 6139-6002 AH035M as pilot of the Skylab 4 mission from November 1973 through February 1974, despite it never being formally approved for mission use. Now dubbed “the first automatic chronograph in space” as the NASA-approved Omegas were manual-winding, the identity of Colonel Pogue’s Seiko wasn’t confirmed until 2007, more than a decade after it was coincidentally chosen to dress Ed Harris’ wrist in Apollo 13.

Vintage Seiko “Pepsi Pogues” can be found at online auctions or retailers like Barnebys, Chrono24, and eBay. Production of the original Seiko 6139-6002 ended around the late 1970s, though Seiko has evolved to keep similarly styled watches among its offerings like the automatic Seiko 5 Sports SNZF15 (via Amazon). If you’re interested in a true original Seiko 6139, I recommend this highly informative collector’s guide from The Spring Bar.

On the third finger of his left hand, Gene wears a silver-toned wedding band to signify his marriage to Marta, the talented vestmaker.

The Archer Connection

Gene Kranz’s famous off-white waistcoat would be revived in popular culture on the FX animated sitcom Archer when the spy agency analyst Ray Gillette (voiced by Adam Reed) dons his own in the episodes “Skytanic” (Episode 1.07) and “Tragical History” (Episode 2.06), referring to it as his “crisis vest”. The Kranz connection goes a step further as Ray wears a blue “ISIS” badge, referring to the series’ fictional spy agency (not the real-life terrorist organization!)

Ray Gillette channels Gene Kranz as he debuts his "crisis vest" in the Archer episode "Skytanic" (Episode 1.07).

Ray Gillette channels Gene Kranz as he debuts his “crisis vest” in the Archer episode “Skytanic” (Episode 1.07).

How to Get the Look

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

The real Gene Kranz adopted homemade white vests that became his symbolic sartorial signature, worn over his shirts and ties in the NASA Mission Control room. What’s your style signature?

  • White or pale blue cotton shirt with snap-tab collar, front placket, breast pocket, and single-button cuffs
  • Navy striped repp tie with balanced burgundy and gray “downhill” stripes with white bottom border striping
  • Off-white faille single-breasted waistcoat with five pearlesque buttons, irregular-flapped hip pockets, notched bottom, and cream diamond-patterned tonal-striped back lining with adjustable strap
  • Dark navy flat front trousers with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with silver rectangular box-type buckle
  • Black leather cap-toe oxfords
  • Nickel-plated POW/MIA bracelet
  • White gold wedding band
  • Stainless steel cushion-cased dive watch with blue-and-red “Pepsi” bezel, blue dial with 3:00 day-date window and 6:00 sub-second register, and steel three-piece link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

We’ve never lost an American in space; we’re sure as hell not going to lose one on my watch. Failure is not an option.


Rear Window: James Stewart’s Pajamas

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James Stewart and Thelma Ritter in Rear Window (1954)

James Stewart and Thelma Ritter in Rear Window (1954)

Vitals

James Stewart as L.B. “Jeff” Jefferies, bored photographer

New York City, Summer 1954

Film: Rear Window
Release Date: September 1, 1954
Director: Alfred Hitchcock
Costume Designer: Edith Head

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

April 16 is celebrated as National Wear Your Pajamas to Work Day, an observance that many would have considered unthinkable until the spread of the coronavirus pandemic last month found many around the world working from home for the first time, finding comfort in their lounge-wear while struggling with unfamiliar teleconferencing software. The idea of being confined to one’s home in pajamas while a growing terror lurks outside brought one movie to mind: Alfred Hitchcock’s damn-near-perfect thriller Rear Window.

Six weeks sitting in a two-room apartment with nothing to do but look out the window at the neighbors…

Based on a short story by Cornell Woolrich, Rear Window stars frequent Hitch collaborator Jimmy Stewart as “Jeff” Jeffries, a prolific photojournalist whose adventurous spirit is dampened by a broken leg, or rather its “plaster cocoon” keeping him confined to a wheelchair in his Greenwich Village apartment with Grace Kelly. Aside from the city’s heat wave, this is hardly a situation that many would complain about, but our energetic protagonist is the type who yearns to see—and photograph—as much of the world as he can, a wanderlust that sends Jeff spiraling into voyeurism as he watches his neighbors through their open apartment windows. (In fact, the apartment complex’s “courtyard” was actually an indoor set on Paramount Pictures’ Studio 18 with advanced lighting that could be converted from “day” to “night” in less than an hour.)

Alfred Hitchcock joins James Stewart and Grace Kelly on the set of Jeff's apartment, overlooking the courtyard set.

Alfred Hitchcock joins James Stewart and Grace Kelly on the set of Jeff’s apartment, overlooking the courtyard set.

Unfortunately for Jeff, life with a stylish socialite and the drama of his neighbors’ mundane lives is hardly the life of a self-professed “camera bum” whose vocation takes him everywhere from Brazil or Finland to Shanghai and Pakistan. Stella (Thelma Ritter), the witty nurse sent by Jeff’s insurance company to tend to him, is particularly unforgiving of his resistance to a comfortable life with the “too perfect” Lisa.

Jeff: She expects me to marry her.
Stella: That’s normal.
Jeff: I don’t want to.
Stella: That’s abnormal.

The banality breaks when Jeff believes he observes a murder across the courtyard, and our wheelchair-bound hero is thrusted into a race against time to convince his girlfriend, his nurse, and finally the police to take his suspicions seriously before his imposing neighbor, the burly Lars Thorwald (Raymond Burr), is the first to realize what Jeff has truly seen.

What’d He Wear?

Sweltering in his “swamp of boredom”, L.B. Jefferies rotates through four sets of pajamas that are likely among some of the simplest outfits to be featured on BAMF Style. This simplicity becomes particularly notable when James Stewart shares the screen with Grace Kelly, an already stylish woman playing a fashionista sporting some of Edith Head’s most iconic costume designs.

All of Jeff’s pajamas are styled relatively similar; the button-up tops have broad collars and three pockets while the bottoms are pulled tight around the waist with a thick white drawstring. These pajama pants seem to have no pockets, not that Jeff would be able to easily access them while in his wheelchair, and the lower pockets on each of the pajama tops would likely serve any purpose that would otherwise require pant pockets. Jeff’s pajamas have self-finished edges rather than the contrast-colored piping found on most modern pajama sets; indeed, it’s difficult even among higher-end manufacturers to find men’s pajamas without piping on the edges. (For some suggestions, check out “How to Get the Look” below.)

When we meet Jeff on this “ordinary, run-of-the-mill Wednesday,” he’s dressed in a khaki two-piece pajama set made from what may be a high-twist cotton that takes on an iridescent sheen. This sheen and the details of the longer top make this pajama set unique when compared to the other three he wears on screen.

The pajama top has a sharply pointed collar that almost resembles the large Prussian collar of an Ulster coat rather than the simpler, flat one-piece camp collar found on modern pajama sets. Five large off-white two-hole buttons are spaced up the front to the neck (where it would ostensibly close through a slanted buttonhole on the left side), though the temperatures bordering on 100°F advises Jeff to only button the second button, leaving the rest open over his torso and making it easier to remove when Stella arrives for his massage. The pajama coat also has a breast pocket with a pointed yoke across the top, hip pockets, and seams around each cuff. The plain pajama bottoms have no pockets and are tightened by a wide, flat off-white drawstring.

Jeff's photographic talents mean he has the kind of job security where he can berate his own editor for merely mistaking which week he would be returning to work.

Jeff’s photographic talents mean he has the kind of job security where he can berate his own editor for merely mistaking which week he would be returning to work.

From his Wednesday night date with Lisa through Thursday night (and again during the final vignette), Jeff wears his second pair of pajamas while trying to maintain his sleepy surveillance of the Thorwald apartment across the courtyard. These pajamas are woven in blue and white thread to create a subtle tonal grid check with a small circle effect in the center of each grid cell, as best illustrated in the below closeup of Jeff’s Tissot watch.

These blue pajamas have a shorter top than the previous set and thus only four buttons up the front, including the one at the neck that he leaves unfastened, wearing the collar flat against his chest like lapels. The pajama top also has three patch pockets, one over the breast and two on the hips, though the hip pockets are slightly smaller than they were on the previous set of pajamas to accommodate the shorter top. The sleeves appear to have no seams around the cuffs. Like the previous pajamas, the bottoms have a flat off-white drawstring and no pockets.

REAR WINDOW

On Friday, Jeff wears his third pair of pajamas. These are also light blue, though constructed in a simpler blue and white end-on-end woven cotton than the distinctive patterned weave of his previous sleepwear set. End-on-end offers a similar feel and appearance to poplin, per Hardy Amies’ recommendation in ABC of Men’s Fashion that the best pajama fabric “is almost certainly some form of cotton,” though beyond that, he “hesitate[s] to advise in such a private matter.”

"Careful, Tom."

“Careful, Tom.” Jeff advises his pal to stay out of private matters himself.
Note the fine end-on-end weave of Jeff’s blue pajamas.

These pajamas are styled nearly identical to the other blue set, though they have a five-button top and the sleeves are finished at the cuffs with pointed yoking.

REAR WINDOW

Jeff wears his fourth and final pair of on-screen pajamas on Saturday as the action rises to a climax during a flash bulb-heightened confrontation with Thorwald. Nearly identical in cut and styling to the previous blue end-on-end pajama set, these pajamas are pale pink, woven in a pink and white end-on-end cotton.

Flash bulbs in his lap, Jeff prepares for a confrontation with the approaching Thorwald.

Flash bulbs in his lap, Jeff prepares for a confrontation with the approaching Thorwald.

Worthy of mention is the “plaster cocoon” that keeps Jeff contained to his home. Having broken his left leg photographing an auto race, the entirety of the leg up the thigh is wrapped in a plastic orthopedic cast that’s been wittily signed:

Here lie the broken bones of L.B. Jefferies.

Who do we think scrawled this on Jeff's cast? Stella? His cheeky unseen editor?

Who do we think scrawled this on Jeff’s cast? Stella? His cheeky unseen editor?

Can you see me driving down to the fashion salon in a jeep wearing combat boots and a three-day beard? Would that make a hit?

Unfortunately for the adventurous Jeff, combat boots are out of the question while he’s convalescing and he doesn’t wear anything heavier than a dark leather slipper and black sock on his uninjured right foot. The style appears to be what was commonly marketed as an “opera slipper”, not to be confused with the patent leather opera pump accepted with black tie and white tie dress codes. The opera slipper refers to a slip-on house shoe with a two-piece upper, typically made of matching leather, with a long front vamp and a rear heel guard to prevent them from easily slipping off a wearer’s feet. Jeff’s slipper is detailed with a single row of perforated broguing around the opening of the front piece.

Promotional shot of James Stewart for Rear Window (1954)

Promotional shot of James Stewart for Rear Window (1954)

Most common through mid-century, these opera slippers have all but fallen by the wayside as more plush slippers have attained general popularity. However, you can still find leather opera-style slippers for men including the Tamarac by Slippers International (via Amazon) or the cowhide Radio Tyme by L.B. Evans (via Amazon or Nordstrom).

Little is seen of Jeff’s slipper on screen, though we get a glimpse of a gold crest imprinted on the heel of the hard leather sole as he’s tumbling out the window during his scuffle with Lars Thorwald.

Does anyone recognize the brand on Jeff's slipper?

Does anyone recognize the brand on Jeff’s slipper?

Jeff wears a stylish stainless steel Tissot watch on a worn brown leather strap with beige contrast edge-stitching. At the time of Rear Window‘s production, Tissot had just celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Swiss watchmaker’s founding by Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son Charles-Émile Tissot in 1853. Tissot merged with Omega in 1930 and, for the following decade or so, most Tissot watch dials were co-branded with “Omega Watch Co.”, though this practice was gradually phased out during the ’40s.

The silver dial of Jeff’s manual-winding Tissot has gold-filled hour markers in a distinctive Deco-style typeface and, closer to the outside of the dial, a smaller black-printed number at five-minute increments. The watch has gold hands with a red pointed arrow at the end of the narrow second hand.

Jeff's smart-looking Tissot is an appropriately reliable, no-frills watch for a well-traveled man who could be described in the same manner. Note also the unique weave of his second pair of pajamas.

Jeff’s smart-looking Tissot is an appropriately reliable, no-frills watch for a well-traveled man who could be described in the same manner. Note also the unique weave of his second pair of pajamas.

On Thursday, having noticed that his binoculars are less than effective, Jeff taps into the tools of his chosen profession and pulls out his Exakta Varex VX, though the “Exakta” logo on the top of this camera had been blacked out with production tape. Evidently, the property department was more willing to advertise Jeff’s Tissot watch than his Exakta camera, though this may have been to hide a product of Soviet origins! Indeed, these 35mm SLR cameras were produced from 1951 to 1956 (according to Camerapedia) in Dresden, which was then part of Soviet-occupied East Germany though still marketed in the United States as the Exakta VX. (“Ihagee Dresden” can still be seen etched above the lens, referring to the manufacturer: Ihagee Kamerawerk Steenbergen & Co.)

Jeff converts the camera into what Stella calls his “portable keyhole” by affixing a large Kilfitt fern-kilar f/5.6 400mm telephoto lens. You can read more about the camera and lens in this great entry at Look Back & Hanker… which has also become one of my new favorite websites to peruse!

Despite his exalted talents as a photographer who "can take pictures from a jeep or water buffalo if necessary," Jeff uses his camera only for the telephoto lens and not to actually take photos that would document the crime unfolding before him and thus provide stronger evidence of Thorwald's guilt.

Despite his exalted talents as a photographer who “can take pictures from a jeep or water buffalo if necessary,” Jeff uses his camera only for the telephoto lens and not to actually take photos that would document the crime unfolding before him and thus provide stronger evidence of Thorwald’s guilt.

What to Imbibe

In her infinite thoughtfulness and generosity, Lisa treats Jeff to a lobster dinner delivered from the storied 21 Club—of all places—kicking off their celebration with a Montrachet white wine. “A great big glassful,” Jeff requests, eventually raising it for a toast with a sadly oblivious MIss Lonelyhearts (Judith Evelyn), who is engaging in her own mock-date with an invisible suitor across the courtyard.

Luckily, 21's standing rule of requiring men to wear jackets and ties did not apply to the rare delivery customer, and a pajama-clad Jeff could enjoy his lobster and wine in relative comfort.

Luckily, 21’s standing rule of requiring men to wear jackets and ties did not apply to the rare delivery customer, and a pajama-clad Jeff could enjoy his lobster and wine in relative comfort.

“What do you say we all sit down and have a nice friendly drink too, hmm? Forget all about this. We can tell lies about the good old days during the war,” suggests Jeff’s friend, Tom Doyle (Wendell Corey), now an NYPD lieutenant who’s surprised to find his old war buddy adding to his caseload with stories of a murder he witnessed without actually witnessing it. Luckily for him, Lisa’s been warming up brandy for the trio to enjoy.

Discussing murder over brandy, just like a classic Agatha Christie mystery.

Discussing murder over brandy, just like a classic Agatha Christie mystery.

How to Get the Look

James Stewart as L.B. "Jeff" Jefferies in Rear Window (1954)

James Stewart as L.B. “Jeff” Jefferies in Rear Window (1954)


“A clean pair of pajamas each night is a luxury that makes riches worthwhile,” advised Hardy Amies in his 1964 volume ABCs of Men’s Fashion and even the luxury-eschewing L.B. Jefferies can appreciate having a variety of clean, comfortable, and well-made sleepwear at one’s disposal when recovering at home.

  • Light blue (or pink) woven cotton pajama set:
    • Five-button pajama top with Ulster-style collar, patch breast pocket, and patch hip pockets
    • Flat front pajama pants with flat off-white drawstring
  • Dark brown leather opera slippers with brogued vamp opening
  • Black socks
  • Tissot vintage steel manual-winding wristwatch with silver dial, gold Deco-style Arabic numeral hour markers, gold hands, and brown edge-stitched leather strap

Though it’s hard to find elegant sleepwear with the same retro-minded attention once placed on pajamas, there are still a few modern examples of Rear Window-style pajama sets with pockets (and no piping) that one could try before resorting to vintage sleepwear.

London clothier Derek Rose offers a wide range of luxurious pajama sets, many vintage-inspired with detailing straight out of L.B. Jefferies’ pajama drawer. My favorite for Rear Window enthusiasts would be this set of classic fit pajamas in “batiste blue” Amalfi cotton. The three-pocket top has the same long-pointed collar and button-up configuration as most of Jeff’s sleepwear, and the bottoms have been given the stylish update of a button closure rather than Jeff’s messy drawstring.

For a wider range of potential options, I offer the following:

  • Derek Rose pajama set in “batiste blue” Amalfi cotton (via Derek Rose)
  • Derek Rose Arran flannel pajama set in blue striped cotton flannel (via Amazon)
  • Fruit of the Loom pajama set in “French blue” cotton/polyester broadcloth (via Amazon)
  • Geoffrey Beene pajama set in “light blue” cotton/polyester broadcloth (via Amazon)
  • Paul Stuart pajama set in “lilac” blue solid brushed cashmere/cotton (via Paul Stuart)

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, the perfect choice for anyone currently in self-isolation at home. You can also read Cornell Woolrich’s original short story, “It Had to Be Murder”, here.

The Quote

It’s probably nothing important at all, it’s just your little neighborhood murder, that’s all!

Frank Sinatra’s Orange Cardigan

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Frank Sinatra, photographed for the April 23, 1965 cover of LIFE magazine by John Dominis. The same cardigan would appear in Marriage on the Rocks (1965), released five months later.

Frank Sinatra, photographed for the April 23, 1965 cover of LIFE magazine by John Dominis. The same cardigan would appear in Marriage on the Rocks (1965), released five months later.

Vitals

Frank Sinatra as Dan Edwards, workaholic advertising executive

Los Angeles, Fall 1965

Film: Marriage on the Rocks
Release Date: September 24, 1965
Director: Jack Donohue
Costume Designer: Walter Plunkett

Background

On this #SinatraSaturday, we celebrate the famous singer’s favorite color by commemorating his appearance on the cover of LIFE magazine 55 years ago this week when he was photographed by John Dominis in an orange cardigan, white turtleneck, and houndstooth trilby for a cover story titled “Sinatra Opens Up”.

Around the same time, Frank Sinatra was filming the amusing ’60s romp Marriage on the Rocks with his friends and occasional co-stars Dean Martin and Deborah Kerr. The movie also provided Nancy Sinatra with her first opportunity to act opposite her father, playing his daughter on-screen as well. (The original title was Divorce American Style until Cy Howard’s original screenplay was deemed too offensive, resulting in rewrites under the title Community Property before all settled on the Rat Pack-friendly title Marriage on the Rocks.)

Sinatra stars as Dan Edwards, a career-focused ad man whose marriage is on the proverbial rocks due tot he lack of passion he’s put into his 19 years with the vivacious Valerie (Kerr). His best pal and business partner is the smooth playboy Ernie Brewer (Dino, of course), who envies the security of Dan’s home life… though not enough to voluntarily give up his swinging bachelor lifestyle with what Dan describes as “the best collection of dames in town!”

Mix-ups and misunderstandings during Dan and Val’s attempt at a second honeymoon in Mexico results in a quickie divorce and even quicker marriage that finds Valerie now legally wed to Ernie, much to the avowed bachelor’s dismay. Dan, fed up with the drama in his previous life, welcomes the freedom from responsibility that comes with assuming Ernie’s bachelor lifestyle, complete with a beachfront pad and bevies of broads.

What’d He Wear?

“Orange, he adored,” writes Bill Zehme in The Way You Wear Your Hat: Frank Sinatra and the Lost Art of Livin’. “‘Orange is the happiest color,’ he said whenever he saw it. His homes and offices and airplane interiors were awash in it. Orange birds of paradise filled flower vases everywhere around him. He loved to wear orange sweaters, orange bathing trunks, orange sport shirts, and orange oxford-cloth shirts.”

After spending much of Marriage on the Rocks in shades of gray flannel suits, Dan Edwards is finally given the chance to live a life without the responsibilities of work and home that have kept him so buttoned-up. Frank Sinatra himself undoubtedly had a hand in choosing Dan’s wardrobe for his “liberation”, wearing several orange pieces that signify the unbridled happiness of Dan’s brief foray into relative freedom as a bachelor.

The most prominently seen is a soft orange ribbed knit wool cardigan with six flat white sew-through buttons up the front, a straight-cut hem, and long raglan sleeves that Sinatra folds back once at each cuff. There are square patch pockets on the hips, each reinforced with a non-ribbed strip across the top.

Five months before Marriage on the Rocks was released, LIFE magazine readers would have seen Ol’ Blue Eyes wearing the same sweater on the cover of the April 23, 1965, issue as photographed by John Dominis. For this photo shoot, Sinatra wore the cardigan over a white lightweight thinly ribbed turtleneck sweater with a brown-and-beige houndstooth tweed trilby.

An additional shot from the Dominis photo shoot.

An additional shot from the Dominis photo shoot.

In Marriage on the Rocks, Sinatra’s Dan Edwards wears the singer’s own orange cardigan for the brief vignette set in Ernie’s beach house when Ernie himself swings by to get a glimpse of his old pal living the bachelor lifestyle. Dan wears the cardigan over an ecru cotton shirt with a plain front and point collar, worn open at the neck.

Dan refuses to admit Ernie—or at least any more than Ernie's forearm—into his own home.

“No married men allowed!”
Dan refuses to admit Ernie—or at least any more than Ernie’s forearm—into his own home.

Dan moves back over to the fire pit to take a seat among the trio of beauties joining him that fall evening, and we see that he’s wearing copper brown flat front trousers, one of the few pieces of warm-toned clothing in the ad man’s otherwise conservative wardrobe. The trousers likely have side-adjusters, either buttons or buckle-tabs, as well as on-seam side pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms that slightly flare out over his black leather loafers and black ribbed socks.

A quiet night in for Dan and his dates.

A quiet night in for Dan and his dates.

The cardigan isn’t the last we see of “liberated” Dan’s orange wardrobe in Marriage on the Rocks. When Ernie agrees to accompany Val to the Cafe a Go-Go, the erstwhile Mrs. Edwards is horrified to see her ex-husband dancing with his new girlfriend Lisa (Davey Davison) in the cage he had once derided. Dan wears a pale yellow double-cuff shirt and black tie under his orange single-breasted, three-button sports coat with welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, two-button cuffs, and double vents that gave Ol’ Blue Eyes a little more mobility as he kept his jacket fastened at the center button throughout his, er, performance.

Sinatra may not sing in Marriage on the Rocks, but he still dances!

Sinatra may not sing in Marriage on the Rocks, but he still dances!

The next time we see Dan, he’s dropping his young son David (Michael Petit) off with his mother for Thanksgiving dinner. Sitting at the wheel of his four-door Lincoln Continental convertible, Dan looks cool and casual in an orange two-button polo shirt with the collar worn over the short standing collar of his tobacco brown suede jacket.

Behind-the-scenes photography of Sinatra with George Barris, who had designed the custom zebra-striped Mustang driven by Tracy’s boyfriend Jim (Tony Bill), shows that the jacket has side pockets and a touch of elasticity on the side hems. He wears brown trousers and brown leather shoes with this outfit.

Dan's final dash of on-screen orange comes by way of a polo worn during Marriage on the Rocks' final act.

Dan’s final dash of on-screen orange comes by way of a polo worn during Marriage on the Rocks‘ final act.

Sinatra wears his usual gold signet ring on his left pinky and a gold tank-style watch with a black leather strap on the same wrist.

How to Get the Look

Frank Sinatra as Dan Edwards in Marriage on the Rocks (1965)

Frank Sinatra as Dan Edwards in Marriage on the Rocks (1965)

Given his love for orange, Frank Sinatra would no doubt bless any way that this bold color was injected into one’s wardrobe to signify happiness, though the cardigan he wore for John Dominis’ LIFE magazine cover shoot and his subsequent appearance in Marriage on the Rocks is a comfortable place to start.

  • Orange soft ribbed knit wool six-button raglan-sleeve cardigan sweater with hip pockets
  • Ecru cotton long-sleeved shirt with point collar, plain front, and button cuffs
  • Copper brown flat front trousers with side adjusters, on-seam side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather penny loafers
  • Black ribbed socks
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Gold tank watch on black leather strap

Orange knitwear isn’t the most popular menswear offering at the moment so, aside from a few retailers like Uniqlo with this now out-of-stock (as of April 2020) lambswool cardigan, your best bet would be to seek out something vintage. I spotted a few reasonably priced examples on eBay from Huntley of York, Izod, Sears, and United Colors of Benetton, all produced between the 1960s and 1990s.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. Sinatra sartorialists would also be well-advised to check out Bill Zehme’s volume The Way You Wear Your Hat: Frank Sinatra and the Lost Art of Livin’, and I remain eternally grateful to BAMF Style reader Teeritz for providing my own copy several years ago.

The Big Lebowski – The Dude’s Green Hoodie and Shorts

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Jeff Bridges as "The Dude" in The Big Lebowski (1998)

Jeff Bridges as “The Dude” in The Big Lebowski (1998)

Vitals

Jeff Bridges as Jeffrey “The Dude” Lebowski, laidback stoner and bowler

Los Angeles, Fall 1991

Film: The Big Lebowski
Release Date: March 6, 1998
Director: Joel Coen & Ethan Coen
Costume Designer: Mary Zophres

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Let me explain something to you. Um, I am not “Mr. Lebowski”. You’re Mr. Lebowski. I’m the Dude. So that’s what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you’re not into the whole brevity thing.

Having already established their appreciation for film noir and detective pulp with earlier movies like Blood Simple and Miller’s Crossing, the Coen brothers spun their fandom in a new direction with The Big Lebowski, a cult classic that riffs on the likes of Raymond Chandler, particularly his complex novel The Big Sleep. Rather than a quick-witted and snarky detective chain-smoking decks of unfiltered Camels in between shots of whiskey, Jeffrey “The Dude” Lebowski is a simple, good-natured slacker who chooses to bowl his way through life at a glacial pace fueled by weed and White Russians.

“We wanted something that would generate a certain narrative feeling – like a modern Raymond Chandler story, and that’s why it had to be set in Los Angeles,” Ethan Coen is quoted as explaining in Josh Levine’s 2000 biography The Coen Brothers: The Story of Two American Filmmakers. “We wanted to have a narrative flow, a story that moves like a Chandler book through different parts of town and different social classes.”

A tragically pissed-on rug leads to a case of mistaken identity that thrusts “The Dude” into an intriguing missing persons case, not unlike Philip Marlowe or Sam Spade before him, though our protagonist is seemingly the only one unaware that the genre of his life has gone from stoner comedy to detective thriller, concerned only with replacing the sullied rug, lighting another J, and listening to Bob.

The Dude admires the piece of encouraging home decor we all need.

The Dude admires the piece of encouraging home decor we all need.

The Dude hardly ranks among the most stylish heroes featured on BAMF Style’s pages, but his laidback, lived-in wardrobe has become rather iconic in its own right.

What’d He Wear?

Jeffrey Lebowski: Are you employed, sir?
The Dude: Employed?
Jeffrey Lebowski: You don’t go out looking for a job dressed like that? On a weekday?
The Dude: Is this a… what day is this?
Jeffrey Lebowski: Well, I do work sir, so if you don’t mind…
The Dude: I do mind, the Dude minds. This will not stand, ya know, this aggression will not stand, man.

For his first encounter with the “Big” Lebowski himself, millionaire philanthropist Jeffrey Lebowski (David Huddleston), The Dude is astutely called out for his considerably informal manner of dressing “on a weekday?!” in an oversized zip-up hoodie, baggy T-shirt, faded shorts, and jelly sandals. It’s impossible to consider which piece of The Dude’s wardrobe would have most offended Lebowski’s sophisticated sartorial sensibilities, but it’s a sure bet that the aging millionaire wouldn’t have a hoodie in his closet.

The Dude’s favorite hoodie, worn in several memorable sequences from the movie, is a faded olive green sweatshirt with a brass zipper and patch pockets with a slanted side entry. The hood has drawstrings to tighten the fit, should The Dude make the uncharacteristic decision to wear anything even remotely restrictive.

Only a decade later, Jeffrey Lebowski would surely be disappointed to learn that most successful entrepreneurs dressed no more formally than the slovenly stoner seated before him.

Only a decade later, Jeffrey Lebowski would surely be disappointed to learn that most successful entrepreneurs dressed no more formally than the slovenly stoner seated before him.

The faded pale green color of The Dude’s sweatshirt is difficult to find on modern clothing, though there are a few hoodies from Alternative and Amazon Essentials—both with contrasting white drawstrings and zipper tape, though—that could do the job in a pinch, though the fit and styling seen on screen suggests an inexpensive activewear brand like Gildan or Hanes.

The Dude’s first outfit with this hoodie, worn for bowling and then his initial meeting with Lebowski, consists of a ragged white cotton V-neck short-sleeved undershirt with a small hole on the right side of the chest that suggests a burn from a cigarette.

His cotton flat front shorts are patterned in a variegated vertical stripe in pale blue, orange, and white. The shorts have side pockets, a zip fly with a white button at the top, and belt loops that go unused.

Riding up under The Dude's striped shorts are his underwear, a pair of white cotton "tighty whitey" briefs likely made by Munsingwear.

Riding up under The Dude’s striped shorts are his underwear, a pair of white cotton “tighty whitey” briefs likely made by Munsingwear.

Days later, The Dude is back at the bowling alley, having been equipped with a beeper so he can be at The Big Lebowski’s beck and call while serving as his emissary in the case of his wife’s supposed kidnapping. He clips the beeper to the drooping V-neck of his T-shirt, similar in shape and style as his previously seen undershirt but dyed in a drab olive gray that’s just a shade darker than his hoodie.

The Dude is wearing a different pair of shorts, the faded brown-on-cream shadow plaid flat front shorts that appear to be a favorite of his as he also wears them with his yellow crew-neck sweatshirt and his famous Medina Sod bowling shirt. Similar shorts can be easily found online from brands like Amazon Essentials, Columbia, and IZOD.

The Dude with his posse: Donny Kerabatsos (Steve Buscemi) and Walter Sobchak (John Goodman).

The Dude with his posse: Donny Kerabatsos (Steve Buscemi) and Walter Sobchak (John Goodman).

Jeff Bridges provided the transparent PVC “jelly” T-bar sandals that became a signature piece of The Dude’s wardrobe, his everyday footwear when he isn’t wearing his white Otomix trainers. If you’re interested in a pair of jellies yourself, you can check out the dwindling stocks of Sarraizienne T-bar sandals from LaMeduse.com. (As the site explains, “Meduse in French means jellyfish because of the similarity between jellyfish tentacles and Medusa’s hair.”)

"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!" The Dude cautiously balances his White Russian as he's tossed into the back of a limo.

“Hey, careful, man, there’s a beverage here!” The Dude cautiously balances his White Russian as he’s tossed into the back of a limo.

Fittingly, the most expensive part of The Dude’s wardrobe is his shades, a pair of Vuarnet VL1307 sunglasses with matte black plastic square frames and green polarized lenses.

You can still find some VL1307 frames from retailers like Amazon, though this particular pair has blue lenses rather than the screen-worn green. Eyewear brand Electric California paid tribute to our favorite slacker with their “retro-inspired” Dude frames (selling for $120 via Electric as of March 2020), though an inexpensive alternative has emerged with the JIM HALO polarized aviator (via Amazon).

THE BIG LEBOWSKI

While most of this outfit could likely be scrounged together for less than $40, The Dude would be honored—and no doubt puzzled—to learn that his hoodie, T-shirt, plaid shorts, and even underwear were auctioned in 2011 for $10,000! The Julien’s Live auction listing describes “a brown dyed V-neck T-shirt, brown plaid cotton shorts, an olive drab hooded sweatshirt with zipper front, and a pair of white Munsingwear briefs.”

(The T-shirt that the listing described as “brown” looked more olive gray-tinted to me, but you be the judge!

How to Get the Look

Jeff Bridges and John Goodman in The Big Lebowski (1998)

Jeff Bridges and John Goodman in The Big Lebowski (1998)

While The Dude’s go-to garb of a hoodie, T-shirt, shorts, and jellies may strike some as too informal for anything but sitting around the house (and perhaps not even that!), our hero’s cheap duds have become an unofficial uniform of Dudeism, a religious philosophy that blends elements of Taoism with The Dude’s laidback approach to life.

  • Pale olive green cotton (or cotton-blend) zip-up hooded sweatshirt with drawstring hood and side-entry patch pockets
  • Olive gray cotton V-neck short-sleeve T-shirt
  • Brown-on-cream shadow grid-check plaid cotton knee-length shorts with side pockets
  • White cotton briefs
  • Transparent PVC “jelly” T-bar sandals
  • Vuarnet VL1307 sunglasses with matte black plastic square frames, “saddle nose” bridge with molded plastic pads, and green polarized 58mm lenses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, one of my all-time favorites.

The Quote

Yeah, well, you know, that’s just like, uh, your opinion, man.

Gary Cooper’s Picnic Blazer and Day Cravat in Love in the Afternoon

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Gary Cooper and Audrey Hepburn in Love in the Afternoon (1957)

Gary Cooper and Audrey Hepburn in Love in the Afternoon (1957)

Vitals

Gary Cooper as Frank Flannagan, wealthy playboy industrialist

Yvelines, France, Summer 1957

Film: Love in the Afternoon
Release Date: May 29, 1957
Director: Billy Wilder
Costume Designer: Jay A. Morley, Jr. (uncredited)

Background

April 23 is celebrated as National Picnic Day, an observance that can still be observed in relative isolation for those willing and able to safely venture outdoors. The word “picnic” derives from the late 17th century French word pique-nique that had originally described restaurant diners who brought their own wine, essentially an early form of BYOB. In the years following the French revolution, the word took on its more familiar connotation as the country’s royal parks were opened to the greater public, who would spend hours and even days preparing lavish luncheons for outdoor dining. Given this French association, let’s check in on two classic film stars enjoying a picnic near Château de Vitry in the 1957 romantic comedy Love in the Afternoon.

Gary Cooper plays Frank Flannagan, an unrepentant playboy bachelor whose reputation precedes him due to incidents like “an episode in Stockholm involving twin sisters…” as private detective Claude Chevasse (Maurice Chevalier) almost admiringly reports to one of many husbands who Frank has cuckolded. Aware of Frank’s seductive prowess, Claude warns his curious daughter Ariane (Audrey Hepburn) that the man is “utterly no good”, but she remains fascinated by Frank, observing with more genuine admiration that “he’s got such an American face, like a cowboy or Abraham Lincoln!” Overhearing a plot by the aforementioned husband to murder Frank, Ariane steps in to save his life and allow herself a brief flirtation.

In the year since Frank and Ariane’s first meeting, she continues to follow his notorious sexploits around the world from catfights between stewardesses to a post-appendectomy party and, of course, Frank being named as correspondent in yet another divorce case. When he returns to Paris that summer, Ariane more aggressively responds to his overtures of courtship, first with one of his characteristic dates in suite 14 at the Hôtel Ritz, followed the next day by an afternoon picnic… attended to, of course, by a butler serving chicken legs and champagne while being serenaded by a gypsy string quartet.

What’d He Wear?

Color photography from the production of Love in the Afternoon illustrates, informs, and clarifies how Cooper and Hepburn dressed for their afternoon in the sun.

Color photography from the production of Love in the Afternoon illustrates, informs, and clarifies how Cooper and Hepburn dressed for their afternoon in the sun.

Though it spends a portion of their picnic hung on a tree branch, Frank wears a tasteful dark navy blazer for an afternoon of rowing with Ariane. The napped flannel cloth suggests doeskin, a tightly woven woolen fabric that, as Hardy Amies assures us in his 1964 tome ABCs of Men’s Fashion, is “not really the skin of a doe, but a woolen cloth made to look like it by felting,” further commenting that its “smooth, almost velvety finish” makes for attractive blazers, though Alan Flusser expands its defined utility to include slacks and sportswear.

Frank’s single-breasted blazer has three silver-toned shank buttons, and Gary Cooper’s lean 6’3″ stance includes him among the gents for whom a full three-button front is not only balanced but flattering. The cuff of each sleeve is dressed with two smaller silver-toned buttons, scaled down in size from those on the front. The blazer has double side vents, appropriately sporty patch pockets on the hips, and a welted breast pocket where Frank wears a folded white pocket square.

Should the pocket hank not be enough, Frank wears a white carnation in his left notch lapel, serving as a boutonnière to communicate to Ariane that he values their time together as a special occasion… even if his behavior immediately following doesn’t quite communicate this point as strongly.

LOVE IN THE AFTERNOON

Frank’s navy silk scarf with its white polka dots provides an additional rakish touch. Often misnomered as an “ascot”, Alan Flusser calls this particular neckwear a “neckerchief” though the appellation “day cravat” may serve as a more specific differentiation between the paisley cotton neck-scarves one associates with cowboys or bandits.

“With the explosion of modern sportswear in the 1920s, the novelty of the open-necked sport shirt inspired a variety of new ways to appoint the neck,” explains Flusser in Dressing the Man. “Long a popular fashion at European watering holes, the sports scarf was, and still is, closely identified with Riviera high style.” Though Flusser warns the look could be regarded as fussy or even feminine at the time of his writing in the 1990s, it was also contemporarily in practice by Pierce Brosnan’s natty 007 in his freshman outing, GoldenEye, while motoring through the mountains over Monaco. You can also read more about the day cravat in this entertaining guide from Dress Like A Grownup!

LOVE IN THE AFTERNOON

LOVE IN THE AFTERNOON

Frank wears a light blue shirt with irregular slubs and a noted sheen when exposed to sunlight sans blazer that suggests a blended construction of linen and silk. He wears the top button undone to reveal his neck-scarf, fastening the rest of the buttons on the plain front and the single button on each rounded barrel cuff.

When Frank insists that Ariane “put away” the chicken leg she’s been gnawing on, she sticks it in the breast pocket of his shirt… a charming moment for some, though it may have inspired waves of shudder among sartorial enthusiasts.

Blazers and khakis may go together like peanut butter and jelly as a go-to pairing for modern men, though I favor the traditional partnership of a classic navy blazer with gray flannel trousers (or off-white, light-wearing slacks for warmer, seaside locales.) Frank wears dark gray flannel trousers with an appropriately long rise and double forward pleats that provide a generous and flattering fit through the hips and legs.

Frank completes his look with a flower behind his ear, an underrated accompaniment to day cravat and flannels.

Frank completes his look with a flower behind his ear, an underrated accompaniment to day cravat and flannels.

Frank's ribbed thin socks are shown to be a dark brown in contemporary photography, reflecting a choice to follow the color of his footwear rather than his trousers.

Frank’s ribbed thin socks are shown to be a dark brown in contemporary photography, reflecting a choice to follow the color of his footwear rather than his trousers.

In lieu of braces or belt, Frank’s elegant trousers are suspended with buckle-tab side adjusters (seen here), rigged just toward the back on each side of the waistband. They have side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms.

Frank’s shoes are a pair of well-worn brown penny loafers, a bastion of men’s casual wear since venerated New England shoemaker G.H. Bass & Co. first introduced its “Weejuns” to the market in 1936. While Frank cuts a fashionable form for his continental travels, these classic slip-ons are a decidedly American element of his garb, favored by contemporary Ivy style icons like JFK and Paul Newman as well as the more rebellious crowd like James Dean and Elvis Presley.

Frank’s loafers are fashioned with a flat strap rather than the distinctive “beefroll” stitching found on some weejuns. Similar pairs offered today include the Bass “Logan Flat Strap Weejuns” (via Amazon and G.H. Bass), these synthetic Dockers for budget-minded shoppers (via Amazon), the Nunn Bush “Drexel” (via Amazon), and the Sandro Moscaloni handsewn penny loafer (via Amazon).

Frank wears a simple yet elegant watch with a round white dial on a shining metal bracelet. It’s likely Coop’s own timepiece, though it’s decidedly not the Cartier Tank that he famously favored in real life.

LOVE IN THE AFTERNOON

What to Imbibe

What’s a picnic without refreshments? Frank caters his afternoon date with Ariane with the same Moët & Chandon Imperial Brut champagne that he orders when entertaining dates at the Ritz. (After all, it is said that white wine pairs well with chicken.)

Yet another bucket of chilled Moët makes its way to Frank and his latest date.

Yet another bucket of chilled Moët makes its way to Frank and his latest date.

The Moët & Chandon champagne house was established by French vintner Claude Moët in 1743 and remains one of the largest and most prestigious champagne producers more than 275 years later. The Imperial Brut champagne was first bottled in the 1860s and quickly became Moët’s best-selling brand.

How to Get the Look

Gary Cooper as Frank Flannagan in Love in the Afternoon (1957)

Gary Cooper as Frank Flannagan in Love in the Afternoon (1957)

Frank Flannagan builds upon the tried-and-true outfit of a navy blazer and gray flannels by sprinkling in American casual staples like his penny loafers, a dash of continental charm via that neck cravat, and characteristically elegant comfort through lush, quality fabrics like silk and doeskin flannel, creating the perfect ensemble for a laidback but luxurious picnic by the water.

  • Navy blue doeskin flannel single-breasted 3-button blazer with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and double side vents
  • Light blue linen-silk shirt with spread collar, plain front, breast pocket, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Navy blue (with white polka dots) silk day cravat
  • Dark gray flannel double forward-pleated trousers with buckle-tab side adjusters, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Brown leather penny loafers
  • Dark brown thin ribbed socks
  • Wristwatch with round white dial on metal bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

You talk too much!

The Office: Florida Stanley

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Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: "Tallahassee")

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: “Tallahassee”)

Vitals

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson, bored paper company salesman

Tallahassee, Florida, Late February 2012

Series: The Office
Episode: “Tallahassee” (Episode 8.15)
Air Date: February 16, 2012
Director: Matt Sohn
Creator: Greg Daniels
Costume Designer: Alysia Raycraft

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Thanks to a “Celebrate Every Day” calendar I received from my girlfriend marking quirky observances throughout the year, I’m privileged to know that April 26 is celebrated as National Pretzel Day. And, of course, hearing the words “pretzel day” should remind most people of one man in particular:

"I like pretzel day." - Stanley Hudson

While there’s little that’s significant or interesting about how Stanley Hudson dresses for day after excruciating day racking up sales (or, more often, crossword puzzle victories), we see a whole different side of the banal salesman when he successfully campaigns to join a select team from his office for an extended business trip to Florida.

Florida Stanley smiles. Florida Stanley is happy to go to work. Florida Stanley is who you want on your Florida team.

After eight seasons of watching the unmotivated Stanley languishing under mid-level mismanagement in the florescent hellscape of Dunder Mifflin’s Scranton branch, the month-long trip brings out more animation than we’ve ever seen from Stanley… even on Pretzel Day! The transformation is most obvious for fellow salesman Jim Halpert (John Krasinski), who is nonplussed when Stanley pulls up to their hotel in a cherry red Camaro convertible, sporting a woven hemp trilby and tropical-printed shirt as he enjoys a cigar.

Jim: Whoa, Stanley… did you just come back from burning down a rival nightclub?
Stanley: Laugh it up, Halpert. I’m in Florida for a month without my family. I’m gonna enjoy this!

Jim may have been the office’s laidback prankster for the majority of the series, but Stanley rapidly rises to become an unlikely candidate for Jim’s role model for his refusal to let professional obligations get in the way of enjoying rum, music, and a well-earned nap during the opening session of a work conference.

“I’ve spent so much of my life telling myself, ‘please, don’t end up like Stanley’,” Jim confesses to the camera, adding, “and now I’m wondering if I even have what it takes!”

What’d He Wear?

When making his case at the office in the previous episode, “Special Project” (Episode 8.14), Stanley takes a page from the Miami Vice stylebook to make his case as a member of the Florida team with a white cotton two-button jacket worn over a hot pink crew-neck T-shirt that coordinates with his pink patterned silk pocket square and the pink puggaree band on his short-brimmed trilby made of natural straw, a lighter and more structured hat than he would actually wear in Florida.

More like Stanley Crockett.

More like Stanley Crockett.

“If anybody’s goin’ to Florida, it should be me. Every shirt I have that isn’t a work shirt is a Tommy Bahama. I’m the only person in this office who watches Burn Notice,” argued Stanley in “Special Project”, and he puts his money where his mouth is when the selected Dunder Mifflin contingent actually arrives in Tallahassee, spending the following two episodes bedecked exclusively in tropical-printed camp shirts that are undoubtedly Tommy Bahama products.

The most prominently featured of Stanley’s Aloha shirts gets its airtime in “Tallahassee” (Episode 8.15) during Stanley’s brief arc as Jim’s idle idol. A large green, yellow, and brown palm leaf print covers a cream diamond-textured ground. The silk shirt has a camp collar, elbow-length short sleeves, faux-coconut buttons on a plain front, and a matching breast pocket outlined by white contrast top-stitching. (As of March 2020, a very similar Tommy Bahama “Hawaiian leaves”-printed silk shirt is available on eBay!)

Cathy Simms (Lindsey Broad) may be vying for Jim's attention, but the married salesman is solely focused on Stanley... or at least the person Stanley becomes when he's set loose in Florida.

Cathy Simms (Lindsey Broad) may be vying for Jim’s attention, but the married salesman is solely focused on Stanley… or at least the person Stanley becomes when he’s set loose in Florida.

Stanley wears his usual pleated khakis that he would normally wear with a sport jacket and tie to the office. His brown shoes appear to be the clunky-looking slip-ons with heavy synthetic soles that, for better or worse, grew popular over the last few decades among the American “business casual” set. These loafers depart from traditional styles like the penny, tassel, or Venetian loafer for a relaxed-looking hybrid that often touts its shock-absorbing comfort technology systems to provide a footwear experience more akin to sneakers. Befitting their audience segments, these hybrid shoes tend to be the specialty of lower-priced brands like Clarks, Dockers, ECCO, Rockport, and Skechers. (We know Stanley is a Rockport wearer as a pair of Leslie David Baker’s screen-worn size 11WX black square-toed Rockport derbies were auctioned after production wrapped.)

Stanley makes no effort to hide the fact that he spends the entirety of Nellie Bertram's opening session listening to his iPod.

Stanley makes no effort to hide the fact that he spends the entirety of Nellie Bertram’s opening session listening to his iPod.

Channeling mid-century bon vivants who summered in the tropics with Panama hats topping their linen-suited kits, Stanley embraces the relaxed vibe of a tan Toyo straw short-brimmed trilby while in Florida, detailed with a tropical puggaree band in a static-like print in shades of green and yellow that echo his Tommy Bahama shirts. (Compared to the lighter, more structured hat he wears in Scranton, this rice paper hat more resembles the inexpensive headgear offered at stores like Walmart.)

The short brim of Stanley’s hat wouldn’t do much to shield his eyes from the sun, so he takes care of that with a pair of tortoise Persol sunglasses with large square frames similar to the Persol PO3135S in “Havana” acetate (via Amazon and Persol).

FLORIDA STANLEY

Stanley wears a large polished rose gold watch on his left wrist on a burgundy leather strap. The round black dial appears to be detailed with gold non-numeric hour markers and either decorative rings or gold-outlined sub-registers at 1:00 and 7:00.

While it’s decidedly not either of these watches, there are some similarities between Stanley’s timepiece and this Citizen BU2013-08E Eco-Drive and this Vincero “The Chrono S”, both in rose gold-finished steel.

Jim picks a seat next to his new idol Stanley in "Tallahassee".

Jim picks a seat next to his new idol Stanley in “Tallahassee”.

After the end of Dunder Mifflin Scranton’s first week in Florida, we can again spy Stanley among the seminar attendees in “After Hours” (Episode 8.16), sporting a different Aloha shirt—likely another Tommy Bahama—in azul blue silk with a pattern of orange flowers with green leaves. This shirt isn’t seen as clearly due to Stanley’s limited screen time during this scene, which the serene smile on his face indicates is just fine with him. (This colorway approach was evidently quite popular with Tommy Bahama as they issued quite a variety with this scheme; you can find an abundance of floral blue shirts on eBay as of March 2020, such as here, here, here, here, and here.)

FLORIDA STANLEY

By the end of that first week, however, Jim’s fandom appears to be waning as he tells us: “I thought I was going to be hanging out more with Stanley on this trip, but he’s turned out to be kind of a loose cannon.” Jim’s point is punctuated as Stanley, in his third Aloha shirt—printed in a yellow-and-pink floral pattern on a black ground—pulls his Camaro aside two women in a Fiat 500 and propositions them for a night out.

"My friend and I are new here in Tallahassee. Would you like to get a cocktail? Maybe go out for a little dancin'? Beautiful day, no?"

“My friend and I are new here in Tallahassee. Would you like to get a cocktail? Maybe go out for a little dancin’? Beautiful day, no?”

A Reddit theory suggests that the blonde in the Fiat is the one that Stanley is seen drinking with at the hotel bar before escorting her back to his room. We see a clear contrast between Stanley’s bright floral day prints and his more subdued evening look. His fourth and final “Florida shirt” is a soft silky black microfiber camp shirt with a subtle floral pattern stitched on the upper left chest and on the lower right hip, just above the hem.

Stanley, proven to be no stranger to extramarital relations, spies Cathy making herself at home on Jim's bed and gives his co-worker a word of warning—or encouragement—on his way out the door: "Careful, Jim, it gets easier and easier."

Stanley, proven to be no stranger to extramarital relations, spies Cathy making herself at home on Jim’s bed and gives his co-worker a word of warning—or encouragement—on his way out the door: “Careful, Jim, it gets easier and easier.”

Florida Stanley fans are given a reprieve during the series finale, “Finale” (Episode 9.24/9.25). A year into his retirement, the erstwhile paper salesman returns to Scranton for a panel discussion with his former colleagues. Now firmly ensconced into his new life happily carving birdhouses in the Sunshine State, Stanley brings his Florida fashions to northeast Pennsylvania via yet another tropical-printed silk Aloha shirt, this one in pea green with a large blue and white floral pattern, camp collar with loop, and coconut buttons. (As with the others, I haven’t been able to track down this exact print but a few similar Tommy Bahamas are out there on eBay as of March 2020: here and here.)

Stanley’s short-brimmed straw hat with its colorful puggaree band returns, as do his tortoise Persol sunglasses, clipped into the breast pocket of his tan windowpane sport jacket.

Retired from Dunder Mifflin and living in Florida, there's no doubt that Stanley is living his Tommy Bahama dream by the end of The Office.

Retired from Dunder Mifflin and living in Florida, there’s no doubt that Stanley is living his Tommy Bahama dream by the end of The Office.

What to Imbibe

Stanley makes the most of his mini bottles of “Donato Gold Rum”, pouring it into his cup during the breakout session with Sabre’s president of special projects, Nellie Bertram (Catherine Tate).

Jim: Wow, are you that bored?
Stanley: It’s just rum. I’m not bored, I’m a pirate.

Unable to argue with that logic, Jim allows Stanley to pour a “healthy” amount of rum into his own diet soda can.

Arr!

Arr!

As often seen with network TV shows, particularly ones featuring drinking in an unfavorable light (i.e. during a business seminar), the brand depicted on screen is fictional, though the name suggests the real-life brand Ronrico, an inexpensive Puerto Rican rum introduced in 1935.

Jim’s hotel mini-fridge is stocked with “Donato” rum as well, which Stanley liberates in “After Hours” (Episode 8.16).

What to Listen to

Stanley: You’re a nice guy, Jim, but you have no idea how to vacation. Now find some Kenny Loggins.
Jim: Loggins and Messina…
Stanley: Did I say Messina?

Stanley peels away before we get to hear the Kenny Loggins anthem of his Florida vacation, though it probably wasn’t “Footloose”, which Andy Bernard (Ed Helms) had danced to two episodes earlier in “Jury Duty” (Episode 8.13).

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: "Tallahassee")

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: “Tallahassee”)

How to Get the Look

Dunder Mifflin is hardly a breeding ground for fashion plates, but a business trip to Florida gives the otherwise subdued Stanley Hudson a chance to embrace the wild side of his personality as a tropical-printed, rum-swilling hedonist picking up dates from a red muscle car.

  • Cream tropical leaf-printed silk short-sleeved Tommy Bahama camp shirt with loop collar, plain front with coconut buttons, and matching breast pocket
  • Khaki pleated slacks with belt loops, side pockets, back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Brown leather square-toed hybrid slip-on loafers with black synthetic soles
  • Tan Toyo straw short-brimmed trilby with green-and-brown tropical-printed puggaree band
  • Persol tortoise acetate square-framed sunglasses
  • Rose gold wristwatch with black dial on burgundy leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series, currently streaming on Netflix, Amazon Prime, and Hulu before it will be exclusively streaming on the upcoming NBC Universal platform Peacock. Of course, you can also purchase the DVDs.

While this episode arc is hardly the The Office‘s best, the “Florida Stanley” transformation may be one of my favorite bits.

The Quote

Life is short. Drive fast, leave a sexy corpse. That’s one of my mottos.

Ike’s Shark Gray Suit on Magic City

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Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Vitals

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Isaac “Ike” Evans, tough and shrewd hotel owner

Miami Beach, Spring into Summer 1959

Series: Magic City
– “Crime and Punishment” (Episode 2.01), dir. Clark Johnson, aired 6/14/2013
– “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03), dir. Ed Bianchi, aired 6/28/2013
– “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07), dir. Simon Cellan Jones, aired 8/2/2013
Creator: Mitch Glazer
Costume Designer: Carol Ramsey

Background

In celebration of my friend and BAMF Style reader Eric’s birthday today, I wanted to pay tribute to the Magic City superfan by highlighting more of the magnificent mid-century fashions worn by Ike Evans (Jeffrey Dean Morgan), boss of Miami Beach’s ritzy Miramar Playa hotel.

Mitch Glazer’s stylish short-lived series aired on Starz for two seasons, set across the first half of 1959 against a backdrop of the Cuban Revolution’s aftermath unfolding across the Florida Straits. A former cabana boy in a Miami Beach hotel, Glazer had based much of the show’s intrigue and even specific plotlines from his own observations or stories he had heard about interactions between the Mafia and the CIA in the lobbies and lounges of iconic Floridian resorts like the Fontainebleau Hotel.

Despite his connections with gangsters and gamblers, Ike Evans is no mobster himself, striving for legitimate success as boss of the Miramar Playa. Yet, the start of the second season finds the hotel chief behind bars for murder charges. He soon receives his freedom from jail but must still vie with the powder kegs all around him from his ex-wife’s sophisticated sister Meg (Kelly Lynch) to his dangerous silent partner Ben “the Butcher” Diamond (Danny Huston), all while negotiating an opportunity to convince the Castro government that he’s well-suited to run casinos in Cuba.

What’d He Wear?

Introduced for the series’ second season is Ike Evans’ shark gray suit which, according to a Terapeak auction listing, had been the property of New York City costume shop Schneeman Studio Ltd. The suiting has a subtle sheen that suggests silk, possibly a worsted wool-and-silk blend, and a color consistent with his declaration in “Angels of Death” (Episode 2.02):

I build, I create… I am the fucking shark.

Ike’s gray suit is cut and styled like his other suits from the second season, all with single-breasted jackets rigged with slim peak lapels. Peak lapels have traditionally reserved for double-breasted garments, though the popularity single-breasted, peak-lapel jacket has cycled through menswear, peaking every forty years or so from its initial boom during the late 1920s and through the 1930s, again during the ’70s revival of Depression-era styling, and again during the early-to-mid 2010s when Magic City was in production, though it certainly was not unheard of for fashionable men in the late ’50s to have their single-breasted suit jackets styled with these double-breasted revers in a contemporary narrow width.

Shaped with front darts, the wide-shouldered suit jacket with its roped sleeveheads also has side vents, three-button cuffs, jetted hip pockets, and a welted breast pocket where Ike wears a straight “TV”-folded white pocket square. The suit jacket’s low two-button stance coordinates with the lower rise of his trousers, which are tailored to fit around Jeffrey Dean Morgan’s waist without belt, braces, or side adjusters, though this lack of a suspension system may also cause the trousers to sag to a lower rise than was commonly seen with late 1950s tailoring. The darted-front trousers have only an extended waistband tab on the front that, once pulled through a single belt loop, closes with a hidden hook closure.

Ike stands with Meg in "Adapt or Die" (Episode 2.03). Note the subtle darts on the front of his trousers, including the dart on the right side that almost lines up with the single belt loop and extends down to an axis almost in line with the bottom of his pocket opening.

Ike stands with Meg in “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03). Note the subtle darts on the front of his trousers, including the dart on the right side that almost lines up with the single belt loop and extends down to an axis almost in line with the bottom of his pocket opening.

Throughout Magic City‘s run, Ike Evans consistently wore white cotton shirts by Ike Behar, detailed with a spread collar and double (French) cuffs. Cuban-American shirtmaker Isaac “Ike” Behar had opened his first shirt factory in New York in 1957, expanding to manufacturing under his own private label in Miami 25 years later. Now, nearly forty years after the launch of the Ike Behar brand, the company remains under the solid management of his sons while Ike himself focuses his current efforts on his humanitarian works. Of the brand’s current offerings as of April 2020, the closest to what Ike Evans wore would likely be this “Ike by Ike” French cuff shirt in 100% cotton white mini-pique.

Apropos the shark-like color of his suit, Ike dresses it up to fulfill the image of the slick, imposing gangster, even if he does follow a more legitimate set of rules than Ben Diamond and those of his ilk. For each of this suit’s three appearances, Ike adopts the “white-on-white” shirt and tie that, when not worn by wedding grooms, maintains an association with the stereotypical movie mafioso.

In “Crime and Punishment” (Episode 2.01) and “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07), Ike’s off-white narrow silk tie has a barely discernible tonal geometric design woven throughout, each coordinating with the placement of black pin dots throughout the tie.

Ike channels gangster style for a meeting with old school wiseguy Sy Berman (James Caan) in "...And Your Enemies Closer" (Episode 2.07).

Ike channels gangster style for a meeting with old school wiseguy Sy Berman (James Caan) in “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07).

In “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03), Ike wears a richer cream-colored tie with an amoebic tonal texture. With both ties, he wears a slim gold-toned ridged tie bar that covers nearly the entire width of this latter tie.

In "Adapt or Die" (Episode 2.03), Ike keeps his arm around his daughter Lauren (Taylor Blackwell) as they prepare to leave Meg's home.

In “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03), Ike keeps his arm around his daughter Lauren (Taylor Blackwell) as they prepare to leave Meg’s home.

Ike’s black leather shoes may be the same single-strap loafers that he also wears with his chocolate brown version of this same suit throughout the second season, a reflection of the relaxing sartorial norms for mid-century businessmen as slip-on shoes were becoming increasingly accepted with suits and ties in the American workplace. (For what it’s worth, YourProps displays a pair of black calf five-eyelet wingtip oxfords by Ferragamo from the series next to a picture of Ike wearing this suit, but the listing describes them as Morgan’s screen-worn footwear from the show’s first season rather than the second.)

Ike Evans looks out over his Miramar Playa domain in "Adapt or Die" (Episode 2.03).

Ike Evans looks out over his Miramar Playa domain in “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03).

Despite flirtatious interactions with Meg, Ike Evans remained one of the few faithfully married male protagonists during the peak of prestige TV (calling out Don Draper, Marty Hart, and Tony Soprano, to name a few…), wearing his gold wedding band on his left ring finger throughout both seasons of Magic City.

In his office, Ike wears black rectangular-framed glasses, an updated style from the semi-rimmed glasses he wore during the first season.

MAGIC CITY 203

Ike’s black sunglasses have the classic trapezoidal frames introduced on the Ray-Ban Wayfarer in the 1950s. The iconic frame was patented by Bausch & Lomb optical designer in 1952 and officially introduced four years later as Ray-Ban’s entry into a world of mid-century design archetyped by “Eames chairs and Cadillac tailfins,” according to design critic Stephen Bayley. From the Herman Miller Eames chairs in his office to the cream-colored ’58 Cadillac Eldorado convertible he drives around Miami, Ike would feel right at home in a pair of slick wayfarer-style sunglasses.

During the series’ 1959 setting, Ray-Ban would have been the only likely purveyor of wayfarer-style frames and a natural choice for Ike, though competitors like Oliver Goldsmith and Polaroid were just warming up their Wayfarer-inspired designs. Today, there are scores of imitators of varying quality, though the quintessential wayfarer remains the original by Ray-Ban, now designated RB2140 (via Amazon or Ray-Ban).

MAGIC CITY 203

After wearing a Longines through the first season of Magic City, Ike has a new gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox for the second season, most prominently seen in the final trio of episodes. The Memovox was a revolutionary timepiece when introduced during the fabulous fifties as the first automatic watch with a mechanical alarm function.

Ike’s 18-karat yellow gold Memovox has a silver dial with black numeric hour markers, the watch’s signature double crown, and a smooth black lizard strap. The circle in the center of the watch coordinates with the “Wrist Alarm” function that is set by adjusting the crown at the 2:00 position until the triangle on the rotating center disc is positioned at the time of the desired alarm. The 4:00 pusher is reserved for winding the watch and setting the time.

Ike Evan's Jaeger-LeCoultre as seen strapped to his wrist when wearing one of his black suits in "Sitting on Top of the World" (Episode 2.06).

Ike Evan’s Jaeger-LeCoultre as seen strapped to his wrist when wearing one of his black suits in “Sitting on Top of the World” (Episode 2.06).

You can read more about the history and the operation of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox here.

What to Imbibe

Ike Evans is an avowed Scotch drinker, drinking Dewar’s White Label throughout the series’ first season and Cutty Sark on the rocks at the start of the second, so he must have been delighted when Meg handed him a dram of Macallan 1926 Fine and Rare Vintage single malt whisky, citing it as her father’s favorite.

Cheers!

Cheers!

How to Get the Look

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Ike Evans may be a legitimate businessman with his hotel, but he’s genre-savvy enough to know that he’s dealing with shady gangsters and needs to dress like a man who can hold his own against them. He turns the trope of the gray-suited office drone on its head by sporting a shark-like with fashionable detailing like narrow peak lapels and a fitted trouser waistband and ultimately completing his mobbed-up image with a white-on-white tie.

  • Shark gray worsted wool-and-silk blend tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with narrow peak lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and double vents
    • Darted-front trousers with fitted waistband, extended front tab (with hidden hook closure), side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White cotton shirt with spread collar and double/French cuffs
  • Cream tonal-patterned silk tie
  • Gold center-ridged tie bar
  • Black leather single-strap loafers
  • Black dress shoes
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox yellow gold “wrist alarm” watch with silver dial on black lizard strap
  • Gold wedding band
  • Black acetate-framed wayfarer-style sunglasses with gray lenses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series, and follow my friend Eric’s @MiramarPlaya Twitter account!

The Graduate: Dustin Hoffman’s Herringbone Tweed Jacket

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Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Vitals

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock, nervous and aimless college graduate

Los Angeles, Late Spring 1967

Film: The Graduate
Release Date: December 22, 1967
Director: Mike Nichols
Costume Designer: Patricia Zipprodt

Background

The myriad impacts of the worldwide COVID-19 epidemic has included a halt on college graduation ceremonies, which would typically be occurring around this time; indeed, my own commencement was on April 30, nine years ago today.

The Graduate provided Dustin Hoffman with his breakout role as Benjamin Braddock, a recent graduate suffering from the ennui of balancing one’s achievements and desires with what’s expected of them. After a humiliating 21st birthday party where his parents forced him to scuba dive into the family pool in front of their friends, Benjamin asserts himself by arranging his first assignation with the seductive and unsatisfied Mrs. Robinson (Anne Bancroft) at the Taft Hotel (in fact, L.A.’s famous Ambassador Hotel), where he chain-smokes Parliaments and nurses a highball while waiting for her in the hotel lounge. At her prompting, he nervously reserves a room for them under the unconvincing alias of “Mr. Gladstone.”

THE GRADUATE

The two find themselves in room 568, where Benjamin shrouds the room in darkness and clumsily tries to act smooth to conceal his nervousness as Mrs. Robinson gets undressed, but he still has trouble coming to terms with their prospective affair.

Benjamin: Mrs. Robinson, I can’t do this… this is all terribly wrong.
Mrs. Robinson: Do you find me undesirable?
Benjamin: Oh, no, Mrs. Robinson, I think you’re the most attractive of all my parents’ friends.

She continues to needle him, suggesting that he may be insecure about his potential inadequacy if this is his first time in the situation, perfectly triggering his pride as he takes the bait and initiates their summer-long liaison.

What’d He Wear?

Given his family’s wealth and East Coast education, Benjamin Braddock’s wardrobe is an unsurprising assortment of smart Ivy League staples for every season, from summer-weight seersucker to fall-friendly corduroy and plenty of OCBDs and striped repp or knit ties to complete the ensembles. (It’s no surprise that The Graduate has been the subject of several requests from BAMF Style readers like Kyle, Ryan, and Zubair!)

For his inaugural tryst with Mrs. Robinson, Benjamin steels himself for the encounter in the sophisticated armor of a classic black-and-white herringbone woolen tweed sports coat, a curiously warm-wearing choice for this late spring evening in Los Angeles, but a stylish one nonetheless.

The single-breasted jacket has a shorter fit contemporary to the late ’60s, with two black plastic sew-through buttons on the front echoed by two on each cuff that appear to be functional “surgeon’s cuffs”.

Dustin Hoffman reportedly improvised Benjamin's impulsive yet uninspired touch of Mrs. Robinson's breast, which she barely seems to notice. When director Mike Nichols started laughing, Hoffman couldn't help but to start laughing as well so he turned away from the camera and repeatedly slammed his head into the wall to distract himself, which Nichols found so entertaining that he left in the finished film. (Source: IMDB)

Dustin Hoffman reportedly improvised Benjamin’s impulsive yet uninspired touch of Mrs. Robinson’s breast, which she barely seems to notice. When director Mike Nichols started laughing, Hoffman couldn’t help but to start laughing as well so he walked away from the camera and repeatedly knocked his head into the wall to distract himself, which Nichols found so entertaining that he left in the finished film. (Source: IMDB)

The edges of the jacket, from the notch lapels to the patch hip pockets, are detailed with a pronounced “swelled edge”, a signature of Ivy style originally designed to keep woolen jackets in shape when wet as described by G. Bruce Boyer for Ivy Style in the 2013 article “The Swelled Edge, A Quarter-Edge of Distinction”. It’s perhaps significant that Boyer’s informative article is headed by a 1962 illustration from Brooks Brothers of their prototypical herringbone tweed jacket with swelled edges, detailed very similarly to what Hoffman would wear a half-decade later in The Graduate.

The aforementioned patch pockets on Benjamin’s hips are covered by straight rectangular flaps, and the jacket also has a welted breast pocket where Benjamin keeps not a pocket square but his red toothbrush.

THE GRADUATE

Like seersucker suits, knitted ties followed the “reverse snobbery” route to stardom, with its origins as a durable, hard-wearing neckwear for poorer populations during the early 20th century before it trended worldwide during the ’60s, worn by style icons from Sean Connery’s James Bond (in Goldfinger) to Marcello Mastroianni. Of course, it was also an Ivy-trad staple and thus secured a place in Benjamin Braddock’s wardrobe, particularly this dark navy knit silk tie worn with his OCBD, a reliable pairing that Benjamin also calls into service with his seersucker jacket for his date with Mrs. Robinson’s daughter Elaine. (Fans of Kolchak are undoubtedly familiar with the virtues of a seersucker jacket, light blue OCBD, and dark knitted tie!)

As illustrated here by Dustin Hoffman, knit ties are a fantastic complement for a coarsely textured jacket like Benjamin's herringbone tweed.

As illustrated here by Dustin Hoffman, knit ties are a fantastic complement for a coarsely textured jacket like Benjamin’s herringbone tweed.

Benjamin wears a pale blue oxford cotton shirt with a button-down collar, an American Ivy staple since Brooks Brothers first popularized the look after John L. Brooks observed English polo players fastening their collars to the bodies of their shirts to keep them controlled during play. Benjamin’s shirt has a front placket and rounded cuffs that each close through a single button.

THE GRADUATE

Benjamin balances his neat Ivy-trad top half with a pair of plain dark gray slacks worn with a black leather belt that has a gunmetal single-prong buckle. He later wears the same light blue shirt, gray trousers, and belt with his corduroy sports coat and striped tie for a later tryst with Mrs. Robinson.

Little is seen of Benjamin’s dark cordovan derby shoes, and I entertain my own theory that Benjamin subconsciously chose these to provide the nervous young man with one more potential obstacle to romance as lace-up shoes can’t be removed as easily as loafers. His charcoal socks effectively continue the trouser leg lines into his shoes.

THE GRADUATE

Benjamin also wears his usual steel wristwatch with its brown gradient dial and black leather strap.

What to Imbibe

“May I have a drink?” Mrs. Robinson asks as she takes her seat next to Benjamin in the Taft Hotel lounge. “A drink? Of course!” he nervously tries to flag down the waiter but fails, prompting Mrs. Robinson to order her own martini.

Benjamin, on the other hand, appears to be drinking a highball. While the word “highball” refers to any mixed drink with an alcoholic base and a non-alcoholic mixer, most traditionally a whiskey and soda thought other popular highballs include a rum and Coke, gin and tonic (or vodka tonic), and whiskey and ginger ale.

Based on the color of Benjamin's drink, he's likely meant to be drinking a whiskey highball mixed with either soda water or ginger ale.

Based on the color of Benjamin’s drink, he’s likely meant to be drinking a whiskey highball mixed with either soda water or ginger ale.

How to Get the Look

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Other aspects of the evening aside, Benjamin Braddock dresses very well for his first appointment with Mrs. Robinson, neatly pulling together quintessential Ivy staples like his gray-toned tweed jacket, blue OCBD, and dark knit tie together for a date night ensemble that’s both classic and contemporary.

  • Black-and-white herringbone tweed single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, flapped patch hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and single vent
  • Pale blue oxford cotton shirt with button-down collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Dark navy knitted silk tie
  • Dark gray flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with dark gunmetal single-prong buckle
  • Dark cordovan derby shoes
  • Charcoal socks
  • Steel wristwatch with brown gradient dial on black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Well, I am a bit nervous, it’s pretty hard to be suave…


From Here to Eternity: Montgomery Clift’s Aloha Shirts

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Montgomery Clift as Private Prewitt in From Here to Eternity (1953)

Montgomery Clift as Private Prewitt in From Here to Eternity (1953)

Vitals

Montgomery Clift as Private Robert E. Lee Prewitt, U.S. Army bugler and “thirty-year man”

Honolulu, Hawaii, Summer through Fall 1941

Film: From Here to Eternity
Release Date: August 5, 1953
Director: Fred Zinnemann
Costume Designer: Jean Louis

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

April showers are said to bring May flowers, so let’s get into the spirit of the season with the classic floral shirts in From Here to Eternity, an adaptation of James Jones’ novel set on a U.S. Army infantry base in Hawaii during the months leading up to the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Though Burt Lancaster is first-billed, Montgomery Clift steals the show as the Kentucky-born bugler and ex-boxer Robert E. Lee Prewitt, dedicated to a career in the Army despite being demoted upon his transfer to Schofield Barracks. Captain “Dynamite” Holmes (Philip Ober) is thrilled that the talented middleweight can now join the regimental boxing team, but Prewitt is emotionally scarred from accidentally blinding a friend during a previous bout and refuses, earning him the ire of the company as increasingly demeaning punishments are thrown at him… sometimes literally.

Lorene (Donna Reed), the charming dime-a-dance girl who Prewitt falls for, comments that he must be disappointed with the nature of his service due to the constant harassment, but Prewitt disagrees, having finally found a place that gives him a sense of belonging.

Prewitt: I love the Army.
Lorene: But it sure doesn’t love you.
Prewitt: A man loves a thing, that don’t mean it’s gotta love him back.

After a week at Schofield Barracks, Prew’s resistance to joining the regimental boxing league hasn’t exactly endeared him to the fellas in G Company, aside from his pal, the scrappy Angelo Maggio played by Frank Sinatra, whose Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor would revitalize his career and catalyze his comeback. The first payday provides the perfect opportunity for Maggio to help Prew socialize and begin trying to enjoy his time at his new assignment.

“Look, first we hit a few bars, see? Then we go to a place of which I am a member, the New Congress Club. Girls. You got any prejudices against girls?” invites Maggio, knowing just what Prew would need to hear to get him leaping out of bed and changing out of his pressed khakis into a fresh Aloha shirt.

What’d He Wear?

Sinatra and Clift, clad in their Aloha shirts, flanking From Here to Eternity novelist James Jones on set. The three reportedly became fast drinking pals during production.

Sinatra and Clift, clad in their Aloha shirts, flanking From Here to Eternity novelist James Jones on set. The three reportedly became fast drinking pals during production.

It’s a shame that From Here to Eternity wasn’t produced in color, as it would have been dazzling to see the G Company servicemen’s bold, colorful Aloha shirts after changing out of their monotonous khaki. Luckily, the fashion still translated through the grayscale screen into viewer’s minds, and—even without the benefit of Technicolor—From Here to Eternity is credited with popularizing Aloha shirts as casual wear among continental American culture, building on the work that had been done over the past decade as actual servicemen were returning from the Pacific and bringing their Hawaiian shirts back to the mainland. The film’s Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design magnifies the cultural impact of the Aloha-clad off-duty soldiers and their glamorously dressed dates.

“Look, don’t let ’em get your goat! We just dress up in civvies and we’re as good as the rest of the world, ain’t we?” asks Maggio, trying to cheer up his pal before a night on the town. Unfortunately for the outcast Private Robert E. Lee Prewitt, his lack of fellowship is only exacerbated when he doesn’t have a colorful tropical-printed shirt of his own.

“Here, wear this!” Maggio offers, tossing his own shirt to Prewitt. “My sister sent it to me. She buys everything too big,” he adds with a shrug, explaining how a shirt from skinny Frank Sinatra’s wardrobe could possibly fit the athletically built Montgomery Clift.

Prewitt and Maggio hit the town, having changed out of their Army uniforms into their ostensible leisure uniforms, each sporting white tropical-printed short-sleeved camp shirts—both from Maggio’s collection—with light-colored slacks as they stroll up to the New Congress Club, a bordello thinly veiled as a nightclub to suit the parameters of the Hays code. At the club, Prew immediately and understandably falls for the club’s “princess”, Lorene (Donna Reed, who would also win an Academy Award for her role).

Almost certainly an authentic Hawaiian shirt, Prew’s borrowed shirt is patterned in an eclectic, colorful array of tropical flowers against a light-colored ground. The short-sleeved Aloha shirt has a long-pointed camp collar with loop, double side pleats on the back, and a straight hem to be worn untucked. The shirt has six buttons up the plain front and two matching breast pockets.

Prew and Lorene are amused by a drunken Maggio.

Prew and Lorene are amused by a drunken Maggio.

About six weeks later, an impressed First Sergeant Warden (Burt Lancaster) takes pity on the staunch young bugler’s plight and grants him a weekend pass. Prewitt dresses in a second Aloha shirt, again with a light-colored ground but patterned in a large-scaled tri-tone leaf print which appears to be best described as Monstera per my friend Aloha Spotter’s helpful guide. The shirt is similarly styled with its loop collar, plain front, and double chest pockets.

He wears this shirt first for his date with Lorene at Choy’s and again when confronting the bully “Fatso” Judson (Ernest Borgnine) and challenging him to a knife fight behind the New Congress Club.

A concerned Lorene and Prew look after Maggio as he drunkenly stumbles out of Choy's.

A concerned Lorene and Prew look after Maggio as he drunkenly stumbles out of Choy’s.

A color portrait of Montgomery Clift on the From Here to Eternity set proves the colors in his third and final Aloha shirt.

A color portrait of Montgomery Clift on the From Here to Eternity set proves the colors in his third and final Aloha shirt.

December 7, 1941. Prewitt has been AWOL at Lorene’s, recuperating after the fight that killed Judson, when he learns of the attack at Pearl Harbor. Out of a sense of duty, he re-dresses to return to G Company in his darker slacks, belt, shoes, and socks, as well as his third and final Aloha shirt.

Apropos the spirit of the day’s events, it’s the darkest of his three Hawaiian shirts with a black ground and a palm tree print in the expected colors of teal-green foliage and brown trunks, as proven by color photography from the production. It’s a “border shirt”, meaning that the ends of the short sleeves and the waist hem are a solid, defined border devoid of pattern.

You can find a version of this rayon shirt, made by Kahanamoku, among the offerings of the Hana Shirt Co., though its sadly not for sale as of April 2020. According to the Hana listing, this shirt is colored in a “deep, rich tapa brown,” and patterned “with surreal, wispy palm trees in the foreground and a lava black Diamond Head in the background.”

To Lorene's horror, a wanted and wounded Prew dresses to return to duty after the events of December 7, 1941. He may be out of his Army uniform, but Aloha shirts have become something of an unofficial uniform for our protagonist.

To Lorene’s horror, a wanted and wounded Prew dresses to return to duty after the events of December 7, 1941. He may be out of his Army uniform, but Aloha shirts have become something of an unofficial uniform for our protagonist.

With all three shirts, Prew cycles through two pairs of off-duty slacks, styled consistently with the fashions of the era with a long rise and double reverse pleats that offer a comfortably generous fit. Both the lighter khaki gabardine trousers and the darker wool trousers have straight pockets along the side seats, jetted back pockets (with a button-loop closure on the left), and are finished with turn-ups (cuffs). He wears a dark leather belt with a rounded single-prong buckle.

Already dressed in trousers and bandages, Prew gathers his shirt and shoes as he plans his return to the base when Pearl Harbor is attacked.

Already dressed in trousers and bandages, Prew gathers his shirt and shoes as he plans his return to the base when Pearl Harbor is attacked.

Prew wears plain-toe derby shoes that are likely made from a brown leather, styled like the russet-colored low-quarter shoes worn by U.S. Army officers and enlisted men during the 1940s (like these), though it’s highly unlikely that Prew would break regulation by wearing his G.I. shoes with civilian clothing. (Perhaps someone with more military experience or knowledge of regulations during this era can shed some light on whether or not this was an accepted practice?)

Date night.

Date night.

Although the U.S. Army had already begun phasing in the more elongated “dog tags” by the start of World War II, Prew still wears the older style of circular aluminum discs that resemble what the military had been issuing since these identification tags had first been required leading up to World War I. When these were first prescribed in 1913, they required a soldier’s name, rank, and company—or regiment or corps—to be imprinted on the tags and authorized that they be suspended around the neck “by a cord or thong passed through a small hole in the tab”, though the 1943 regulations updated this to prefer “non-corrosive, non-toxic and heat-resistant necklace material in lieu of cord or tape” and metal chains like Prew’s beaded ball chain quickly became the new norm. The double tag system (one to stay with a corpse, another to be used for record-keeping) had also been implemented in July 1916, followed two years later by the addition of service numbers when that system was adopted by the Army. It wasn’t until November 1941, less than a month until the Pearl Harbor attack, when the Army added medical information including blood type, year of tetanus shot, and religious preference. (You can read more about the history of World War II-era dog tags in this informative post by the WW2 U.S. Medical Research Centre.)

Given his status as a “thirty-year man”, the experienced Private Prewitt retains his older pattern dog tags despite the fact that the War Department had authorized the new elongated M1940 the year prior.

Under his uniform, though not necessarily always under his off-duty Aloha shirts, Prew wears a white ribbed sleeveless undershirt with narrow straps over the shoulders. Assuming Prew wears the same underwear as the rest of G Company, these would be Army-issue white cotton boxer shorts with a three-button waistband.

What to Imbibe

“You see that, buddy boy? A woman sees a soldier and like that she figures his drunk. Why? You know why?” Maggio asks Prew. “‘Cause he is,” a slurring Prew confirms. Even the affable Private Mazzioli (Harry Bellaver) calls it “a soldier’s nature… almost his sacred duty once in a while” to get drunk.

A method actor (and also a troubled guy with a few issues when it came to booze), Montgomery Clift reportedly made it his own sacred duty to actually get drunk when playing a scene opposite Burt Lancaster where the two were depicted passing a pint of whiskey.

“Yeah, we’ll dance, we’ll dance,” Maggio assures Sandra (Joan Shawlee), “First, I gotta calm my nerves. Let’s go to a phone booth or somethin’, huh, where I will unveil a fifth of whiskey I have hidden here under my loose, flowing sports shirt.” That very fifth heralds Maggio’s entrance into the club parlor later in the evening, where he drunkenly greets Prewitt and Lorene: “I didn’t hear no sounds of combat, so I thought you might want a drink.”

From Here to Eternity is ripe with plenty of great drinking dialogue, including the following exchange made all the more entertaining by Sinatra’s famous reputation for imbibing…

Lorene: No thanks, I don’t drink… I think it’s a weakness.
Maggio: (finishing the extra drink he poured for her) I grant you that.
Lorene: I don’t like weakness. Do you?
Prewitt: No, I don’t like weakness, but I like to drink.

Despite all the whiskey talk, we don’t get an identifiable look at the label of Maggio’s fifth. Instead, we have to wait a few scenes until the NCOs’ night out in a tropical-themed bar filled with big band music and Chesterfield smoke, where Prewitt, Maggio, and Warden are all seen drinking bottles of Blatz, a then-popular Milwaukee beer.

Prew refills his Blatz, working up the liquid courage to show off his bugle skills.

Prew refills his Blatz, working up the liquid courage to show off his bugle skills.

Blatz would appear in another iconic 1953 movie, The Wild One, in which Marlon Brando’s Johnny and his biker gang take over a small California town, getting drunk on plenty of Blatz in the process.

How to Get the Look

Montgomery Clift as Private Prewitt in From Here to Eternity (1953)

Montgomery Clift as Private Prewitt in From Here to Eternity (1953)

When in Hawaii… do as the troops stationed in Hawaii in the months leading up to Pearl Harbor did.

  • Vintage tropical-printed Aloha shirt with long-pointed camp collar (with loop), plain front, two matching chest pockets, and straight hem
  • Light khaki or dark gabardine double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets (with left button-loop closure), and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Dark leather belt with rounded single-prong buckle
  • Russet brown leather plain-toe derby shoes
  • Light-colored socks
  • White cotton boxer shorts with three-button waistband
  • Aluminum circular Army identification tags

I tend to favor the array of prints in quality fabrics from trusted manufacturers offered by the talented team at AlohaFunWear. If you’re looking to channel Prew and Maggio, they have a curated selection of retro and vintage-inspired Aloha shirts here, though I recommend seeing all this wonderful site has to offer!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, which includes one of Montgomery Clift’s finest performances. In fact, that year’s Academy Award winner for Best Actor, William Holden, had supposedly believed that Clift or Burt Lancaster should have received the Oscar instead of him.

“Clift forced the other actors to be much better than they really were,” explained director Fred Zinnemann. “That’s the only way I can put it. He got performances from the other actors, he got reactions from the other actors that were totally genuine.” Both Lancaster and Sinatra counted themselves among those who benefited from working with Clift, and Donna Reed recalled his “positively violent” concentration in their scenes together.

Although neither Clift, Lancaster, or Deborah Kerr received the Oscars they were nominated for, From Here to Eternity did receive eight Academy Awards including the coveted Best Picture as well as recognition for the performances of Sinatra and Reed, Zinnemann’s direction, and Daniel Taradash’s adapted screenplay.

The Quote

Ain’t nothin’ the matter with a soldier that ain’t the matter with everyone else.

Martin Sheen in Badlands

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Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

Vitals

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers, garbage collector-turned-spree killer

South Dakota through the Montana Badlands, Spring 1959

Film: Badlands
Release Date: October 15, 1973
Director: Terrence Malick
Costume Designer: Rosanna Norton (uncredited)
Wardrobe Credit: Dona Baldwin

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Terrence Malick made his impressive cinematic debut writing, producing, and directing Badlands, the romanticized re-interpretation of the infamously violent crime spree of Charles Starkweather and his teenage girlfriend, Caril Ann Fugate, that left ten dead across the Great Plains during eight brutal and bloody days in January 1958.

The real-life Caril Ann Fugate and Charles Starkweather, circa 1957. Starkweather's denim jacket and jeans likely inspired Rosanna Norton's costume design for Kit Carruthers, though it should be noted that Starkweather's jacket does not appear to be Levi's.

The real-life Caril Ann Fugate and Charles Starkweather, circa 1957. Starkweather’s denim jacket and jeans likely inspired Rosanna Norton’s costume design for Kit Carruthers, though it should be noted that Starkweather’s jacket does not appear to be Levi’s.

“He projected this very, very disarming image, everybody could kind of relate to him,” spoke Martin Sheen of the real Starkweather in a retrospective interview about the making of Badlands. “His murder spree aside, he was very, very interesting, and he gave us an inside kind of glimpse into the very worst part of ourselves. And yet, it was so engrossing—his character, his image of himself—and it made the country kind of step back a little bit and say we’re more into image than reality, and this guy is a reflection of that.”

Sheen, who had considered Malick’s script to be the best he had ever read, still considers Badlands his finest movie.

“Terry always separated the brutality and the reality of the Starkweather incident from what we were doing,” added Sissy Spacek. “He never said ‘This is that story,’ he didn’t want us to do the research.” Although inspired by these actual events, Malick chooses to tell his own independent “fairy tale”, being sure to change the names of our protagonists, soften the nature of their myriad misdeeds, and shift the action north from Nebraska into Wyoming up to South Dakota into Montana.

Little did I realize that what began in the alleys and backways of this quiet town would end in the Badlands of Montana.

Though filmed primarily in Colorado, the story begins in Fort Dupree, South Dakota, where teenager Holly Sargis (Sissy Spacek) is living a life of complacent boredom with her gruff father, a widowed sign painter played by the always-reliable Warren Oates. She soon finds herself under the magnetic spell of garbage “thrower” Kit Carruthers (Martin Sheen), despite her father’s objections to the ultimately objectionable young man. Holly cites her attraction to the sociopathic Kit to his finely honed likeness—in look and persona—to the late James Dean as well as his proto-philosophical ramblings (“Somebody dropped a bag on the sidewalk. If everybody did that, the whole town would be a mess.”) that no doubt resemble wisdom to an unworldly 15-year-old girl whose sphere of influence had never extended beyond small towns in Texas and South Dakota.

Kit and Holly provide a visual yin to the other's yang on their first meeting.

Kit and Holly provide a visual yin to the other’s yang on their first meeting.

Having procured a cheap revolver, Kit removes the obstacle to life with Holly by killing Mr. Sargis, leaving the underaged girl with no one to guide her through life except Kit. From the start, he provides several opportunities for her to leave him (“If you wanna call the police, that’s fine, just won’t be so hot for me,”), but she “sensed that her destiny now lay with Kit, for better or worse.” The couple then embarks on their nomadic life with a seemingly idyllic start of self-isolation in the woods until they’re forced out to begin leaving their bloody trail across the Great Plains that results in their inevitable capture.

I always wanted to be a criminal, I guess, just not this big of one… takes all kinds, though.

What’d He Wear?

Terrence Malick told Beverly Walker for Sight and Sound in 1975 that he “tried to keep the 1950s to a bare minimum” to avoid a sense of nostalgia overwhelming the plot, though the film deserves credit for costuming Martin Sheen in the appropriate generation of Levi’s trucker jacket, dressing Kit Carruthers in the “Type 2” pattern introduced in 1953 rather than the modern “Type 3” that has remained the Levi’s standard since its 1967 introduction. Aware of his image, Kit would have been aware that the King himself, Elvis Presley, was often photographed in this style of Levi’s jacket.

BADLANDS

This jacket’s official designation is the Levi’s 507XX as the “Type 2” nomenclature was added retrospectively as enthusiasts sought to explore the history and evolution of this all-American outerwear. Introduced in 1953 alongside the brand’s two-sided “red tab”, this short, boxy-fitting jacket was the first revised issue of the denim jacket that Levi’s had introduced in 1906 as the 506XX, though the earlier jacket went through several design evolutions of its own before the 507XX was developed.

The 507XX maintained the basic structure and style of its predecessor, though it added a second chest pocket for two pointed-bottom patch pockets, each closing through a single-button flap and positioned at mid-chest rather than the higher positioning of the modern trucker jackets. They have five silver-finished iron rivet buttons and horizontal buttonholes. Extending down from the horizontal front yoke to the waistband, there are two forward-facing pleats closely placed on each side of the placket; the pleats are overlaid by three top-stitched rectangles on each side of the placket, all with the signature “lemon yellow” threading present throughout. (By cutting open these rectangles, the outer set of pleats could be expanded to give a wearer even more room inside the jacket.)

"It okay, me leaning on your Willys here?

“It okay, me leaning on your Willys here?

Consistent with the modernization practices of their jeans, the 507XX also did away with the 506XX’s cinch-back and replaced it with the more modern button-tab waist adjusters that are still present on trucker jackets today, including the most recent iteration of the Levi’s jacket. These short tabs fasten to one of two buttons. The back has a deep outward-facing pleat on each side, extending down from the horizontal top yoke to the waistband. Both pleats gently taper toward the center, creating a keystone-like effect on the back of the jacket. Each sleeve also closes with a single button on the cuff.

Clad in his Levi's 507XX jacket, Kit surveys the Montana badlands behind him. Note his revolver, pocketed in the back of his jeans.

Clad in his Levi’s 507XX jacket, Kit surveys the Montana badlands behind him. Note his revolver, pocketed in the back of his jeans.

You can read a comprehensive and well-illustrated history of the 507XX written by Louter for Long John, including references to Badlands. Denim expert Albert Muzquiz also included the Type 2 in his exploration for Primer, adding the insight that the “507XX” refers to its original shrink-to-fit denim construction that had been phased out by the 1960s. Although the 507XX was ostensibly replaced by the “Type 3” 557XX in 1967, this “Type 2” style was revived by Levi’s for their Vintage Clothing line. Heddels also offers a guide for dating and valuing vintage Levi’s denim jackets from across all three generations.

Kit is such a fan of his 507XX that he sometimes wears the jacket as its own shirt, foregoing his undershirt and lounging in his forest hideout wearing just jacket and jeans.

In what would become a signature move for Martin Sheen, seen with his work jackets in Wall Street and even his presidential suit jackets on The West Wing, Kit “flips” the jacket on over his head, a two-second trick that slips both arms into the jacket at once. The actor developed this habit to accommodate the limited movement in his left arm and shoulder, which he explained was damaged by forceps during his birth and left him with a “withered” left arm that grew to be three inches shorter than his right arm.

(Yes, I once tried to do this with a suit jacket and my glasses flew out of my breast pocket and I spent the next three minutes asking my co-workers to be careful while I looked for my glasses, immediately nullifying any potential of looking cool while executing Sheen’s maneuver.)

Evidently a brand loyalist, Kit wears Levi’s 501XX jeans in a dark blue denim just a shade darker than his jacket. These button-fly “Original Fit” jeans have the signature Levi’s red tab along the inside of the back right pocket.

The middle belt loop on the back is centered on the seat seam, suggesting that Sheen’s screen-worn jeans were likely made after 1964 as Levi’s had offset this belt loop to be positioned aside this seam from 1947 until then, according to Mads Jakobsen’s informative guide to the history of vintage Levi’s 501 jeans for Heddels. I hesitate to call this an anachronism as it’s such an esoteric detail in an otherwise period-perfect costume, but it’s nonetheless worth noting in the spirit of comprehensiveness.

Evidently not a sports fan.

Evidently not a sports fan.

Kit wears a well-worn dark brown leather belt with a tarnished brass D-shaped single-prong buckle.

BADLANDS

Kit further cultivates his James Dean image by exclusively wearing a white cotton T-shirt with a crew neck and short sleeves, not unlike Dean’s famous undershirt in Rebel Without a Cause.

"Just thought I'd come over and say hello to you. I'd try anything once."

“Just thought I’d come over and say hello to you. I’d try anything once.”

“Least nobody can get on me about wearin’ these boots anymore,” he comments to Holly about starting his new job as a cowboy after he was fired from the garbage company. Indeed, these distinctive black-and-white boots were part of our introduction to Kit, as he marveled over a dead dog in an alleyway and challenged his pal Cato to eat it for a dollar. I wouldn’t know the best place to start looking for boots like these—though Kit would likely be flattered to know that anyone wants them—other than starting with the “exotic boots” segment at Boot Barn or Country Outfitter.

For some boots in the same spirit at Kit’s, check out these black Corral boots with white python skin inlay, the python Dan Post boots with black stitched shafts, or these Moonshine Spirit stingray boots. If you’re seeking mule ears, your selection is a little more limited but these all-black COWS® “shotgun” boots or these customizable Gladiator “shooter” boots could suit your purposes.

Kit’s boots appear to be constructed in a base of black leather, with white leather overlaid on the toe caps, heel counters, and the shafts, all decoratively stenciled out to reveal the black underneath though they remain black over the insteps. These boots have flapped “mule ears” on the sides, decorated in a coordinating black-and-white stitched design, that hearken back to the days of Old West gunfighters who reportedly would pull on their tall boots by these loose, mule ear-shaped flaps. Kit’s boots are soled in hard black leather with low heels.

Kit's distinctive boots give his dance steps additional flavor.

Kit’s distinctive boots give his dance steps additional flavor.

For one brief scene early in Kit and Holly’s courtship, he wears a light blue classic chambray work shirt, one of the rare times he diverges from his usual daily attire and arguably the “dressiest” thing he wears. The shirt has two flapped chest pockets and white buttons up the front placket and on the cuffs of its long sleeves, worn rolled up his forearms.

Aside from an expertise with firearms and a casual reference to what kids eat in Korea, little about Kit suggests any sort of military experience and it’s likely that he picked up this naval-style work shirt secondhand or from a civilian manufacturer. The unprecedented number of servicemen who returned home after World War II saw a boom in the military work-wear they brought home, and American outfitters began manufacturing garments like leather flight jackets, khaki chinos, and chambray work shirts for the civilian market.

Holly carries Kit's jacket for him as he walks beside her in a rarely seen chambray shirt.

Holly carries Kit’s jacket for him as he walks beside her in a rarely seen chambray shirt.

A strong proponent of denim, Kit spends much of his life in the wilderness with Holly wearing a pair of jeans cut off above the knees to become a handmade pair of the now oft-derided “jorts”. Judging by the arcuate stitching on the back pockets, these were likely modified from another pair of Levi’s 501 jeans.

Gone fishin'.

Gone fishin’.

“Originally, there was a hat involved,” Sheen recalled in a recent interview. “[Malick] wanted me to wear a cowboy hat, a Texan kind of hat. That was the hardest piece of wardrobe to come up with. We went to a lot of different stores… trying to find a hat that would work. We were in a particular store, and Terry was trying on all these kinds of cowboy hats — some of them were straw, some of them were felt, cotton, whatever — and I would try a hat and he’d say, ‘No, no that wouldn’t work, let’s try this, Martin.’ I’d say ‘Okay,’ and I’d put another one on, then another one, and it just wasn’t working, and finally he said ‘I hope you don’t mind, but it seems that your IQ drops considerably when you put on a hat.’ And I said ‘Enough said,’ and I’ve never worn a hat since.”

Despite Sheen’s hesitation in the face of Malick’s criticism, a cowboy hat did make its way into Kit Carruthers’ wardrobe early in the film, seen only twice: once when working as a cowboy (the best time to wear a cowboy hat) and again during a moment of isolation in the woods with Holly. The light natural straw cowboy hat has a cattleman-style crown and a narrow leather band.

Relaxing in cowboy hat and boots in a pose reminiscent of his hero James Dean on the set of Giant, Kit casts a furtive glance around while poring through a National Geographic... as if reading a magazine was the only thing he had to feel guilty about.

Relaxing in cowboy hat and boots in a pose reminiscent of his hero James Dean on the set of Giant, Kit casts a furtive glance around while poring through a National Geographic… as if reading a magazine was the only thing he had to feel guilty about.

After holding the wealthy Mr. Scarborough and his deaf maid hostage for hours in their upscale home, Kit grabs two items from the man’s foyer—a Panama hat and a seersucker jacket that both he and Holly would wear over the course of the film’s final act—before additionally taking the man’s Cadillac as well.

Why are these items so important to Kit and the image he continues to build for himself? The answer makes itself evident in Malick’s below testimony for Sight and Sound:

Kit doesn’t see himself as anything sad or pitiable, but as a subject of incredible interest, to himself and to future generations. Like Holly, like a child, he can only really believe in what’s going on inside him. Death, other people’s feelings, the consequences of his actions—they’re all sort of abstract for him. He thinks of himself as a successor to James Dean—a rebel without a cause—when in reality he’s more like an Eisenhower conservative. “Consider the minority opinion,” he says into the rich man’s tape recorder, “but try to get along with the majority opinion once it’s accepted.” He doesn’t really believe any of this, but he envies the people who do, who can. He wants to be like them, like the rich man he locks in the closet, the only man he doesn’t kill, the only man he sympathizes with, and the one least in need of sympathy. It’s not infrequently the people at the bottom who most vigorously defend the very rules that put and keep them there.

The blue-and-white railroad-striped seersucker cotton jacket has narrow notch lapels, a double white button front closure, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, plain cuffs with no buttons or vents, and a single back vent.

Evidently feeling gentlemanly in his [stolen] jacket and hat, Kit stops to open Holly's [stolen] car door for even with his hands full [of stolen goods].

Evidently feeling gentlemanly in his [stolen] jacket and hat, Kit stops to open Holly’s [stolen] car door for even with his hands full [of stolen goods].

“By the end of the film, Kit’s self-mythology has blended with a full-on celebrity status earned through killing,” wrote filmmaker Michael Almereyda in an essay included with the Criterion Collection edition of Badlands. Carefully cultivating his image when he knows his capture is imminent, Kit dons the Panama hat he liberated from the home of the “rich man”, fires a round into the front tire of the same man’s Cadillac, and awaits the arrival of the police.

The fine straw Panama hat has a grosgrain with seven balanced stripes that alternate between royal blue and white.

"I'll kiss your ass if he don't look like James Dean," remarks the deputy after taking in Kit's appearance. It's just what the young criminal wanted to hear.

“I’ll kiss your ass if he don’t look like James Dean,” remarks the deputy after taking in Kit’s appearance. It’s just what the young criminal wanted to hear.

The swaggering deputy, Tom (Alan Vint), grabs Kit’s Panama hat and flings it out of the car, sending the hat and its striped grosgrain band scattering over the road. “You tossed my hat out the window,” Kit observes. “Wanna sue?” the sheriff responds. “No.”

What to Listen to

Although the world takes their multiple murders and crimes seriously, Terrence Malick sought to portray Kit and Holly’s reactions to their own actions as living in a fairy tale, achieving this effect by generously scoring much of their life in hiding with the light “Gassenhauer nach Hans Neusiedler (1536)”, composed by Carl Orff’s collaborator Gunild Keetman as part of Orff’s Schulwerk approach, a modern arrangement of a 1536 work by German Renaissance ludelist Hans Neusidler.

As performed by George Tipton, Badlands popularized this particular piece, which would find widespread use across other movies like True Romance and Monster as well as on television shows and commercials.

“Gassenhauer” wasn’t the only track that would go on to be prominently used in other movies. A brief vignette depicts Kit and Holly spending their idyllic life in the woods dancing to Mickey & Sylvia’s 1956 call-and-response pop hit “Love Is Strange”. Though the song had also been featured the previous year in Deep ThroatBadlands was likely the first mainstream movie to include “Love Is Strange”, years before it would become famous on the soundtracks of Dirty Dancing and Casino.

“Hey, don’t touch that, it’s Nat King Cole!” Kit admonishes Holly as she moves to change the radio station during their nighttime drive into Montana. Kit pulls the Cadillac over and they dance in ints headlights to “A Blossom Fell”, Cole’s 1955 single. “Boy if I could sing a song like that,” Kit observes admiringly, “it’d be a hit.” (Despite his appreciation for Nat King Cole, Kit later explains to his captors that his favorite singer is Eddie Fisher.)

For additional Badlands flavor:

  • A rare instrumental version of James Taylor’s “Migration” served as a secondary theme throughout the movie.
  • Martin Sheen recalled that he was listening to Bob Dylan’s “Desolation Row” during an early morning drive on the PCH when he knew that he was “going to play the part of my life” by accepting the role in Badlands.
  • Both the movie and the real-life incidents inspired Bruce Springsteen’s 1982 album Nebraska, specifically its leading title track “Nebraska” told from Charles Starkweather’s perspective.
Gassenhauer nach Hans Neusiedler (1536) Love Is Strange A Blossom Fell Migration Desolation Row Nebraska

The Cars

Kit’s matte black 1951 Mercury Sport Coupe is a direct extension of his James Dean self-image, a reflection of the ’49 Merc that Dean made famous in Rebel Without a Cause and a stand-in for the blue 1949 Ford two-door sedan driven by Charles Starkweather in real life, which he painted black following his murder of Robert Culvert in December 1957. The 1951 Mercury Eight was the last model year of the same generation that began with the ’49.

The Mercury Eight had launched as the line’s debut model when Edsel Ford introduced the Mercury marque in 1938 to bridge the gap between Ford and Lincoln. As the first Mercury produced following World War II, the distinctive “ponton” appearance of the 1949-1951 generation successfully distinguished the Mercury from its Ford sister model, which offered the same 255 cubic-inch “flathead” V8 albeit with slightly less power than the Mercury. The Mercury Eight would be replaced by the re-styled Mercury Monterey alongside the Mercury Custom fro the 1952 model year. (You can see more of Kit’s Mercury at IMCDB.)

Kit's Mercury.

Kit’s Mercury.

Kit briefly abandons the Mercury at Cato’s home, stealing a 1949 Studebaker Champion Starlight De Luxe from the two teens he locked in the cellar and shot at. Their fate is left unknown, but this incident paralleled Starkweather’s brutal double murder of teens Robert Jensen and Carol King, who had stopped to offer Starkweather and Fugate a ride and ended up shot to death in a Bennet, Nebraska storm cellar, not far from where Starkweather had previously filled family friend August Meyer.

The teal two-door Studebaker is an older but slightly more premium upgraded ride for Kit and Holly with its unique wraparound “greenhouse” rear window. Though stylish in its design, the Studebaker may have disappointed a motorhead like Kit with its underpowered straight-six engine producing only 80 horsepower as opposed to the 112 horsepower generated by his Mercury V8. However, the Mercury was also nearly 1000 pounds heavier than the Studebaker so it’s possible that the lighter car may have sprinted faster even with a less powerful motor. (You can see more angles of this Studebaker at IMCDB.)

Kit greets two teens pulling up to Cato's spread in a Studebaker.

Kit greets two teens pulling up to Cato’s spread in a Studebaker.

Kit acquires his third and final car, a shining black 1959 Cadillac Series 62 coupe, from the home of the wealthy Mr. Scarborough (John Carter), the film’s stand-in for the real-life C. Lauer Ward who was a Starkweather victim in January 1958 in addition to his wife Clara, their maid Lillian Fencl, and the family dog. After Starkweather murdered the residents of the household, he and Fugate drove off in Mrs. Ward’s black 1956 Packard.

Kit and Holly feed the Cadillac with drip gas as they speed out of South Dakota into the Montana badlands. (If you look closely, you can see the Cadillac has an anachronistic inspection sticker that expires in December 1972.) After the cars he’s been used to, Kit had to be impressed by the Cadillac’s 390 cubic-inch OHV V8 engine, mated to a four-speed automatic transmission and offering an output of 325 horsepower. (You can see more of Mr. Scarborough’s Cadillac at IMCDB.)

Interestingly, the long black two-door American coupe shares many qualities with Kit’s entry-level Merc, perhaps illustrating that he’s come as close as possible to living his own self-image by the end. Kit’s always had access to the downgraded versions of this lifestyle, but now he’s cruising in a Cadillac wearing a fine Panama hat rather than motoring his Mercury with a cheaper straw cowboy hat. Having achieved his goal and likely aware that he can’t do any better, he’s ready for the ride to be over, engineering his own capture by firing a shot into the coupe’s front left wheel. By calling the game early on his own terms, Kit ensures that he can live by the ethos of living fast, dying young, and leaving a good-looking corpse, often touted by James Dean as a reference to Nicholas Ray’s cinematic adaptation of the 1947 novel Knock on Any Door. (The phrase itself likely originates to J.M. O’Connor’s 1921 play “These Wild Young People” as etymologized here.)

With his acquired Panama hat and Cadillac, Kit stands beside the pile of rocks to commemorate the place where he was captured, working overtime in the hopes of cementing his own criminal legend.

With his acquired Panama hat and Cadillac, Kit stands beside the pile of rocks to commemorate the place where he was captured, working overtime in the hopes of cementing his own criminal legend.

The 1959 Cadillac exemplifies the dramatic tailfins that symbolized automotive luxury during the latter half of the fabulous fifties. While all prominent American auto manufacturers tossed their own proverbial hats into the tailfin ring, it was Cadillac that’s credited with starting the trend in the late 1940s and it was Cadillac that most famously carried it out, reaching a dramatic climax with its 1959 models with the Eldorado’s soaring 42-inch fins, illuminated by twin bullet-shaped tail lights, and standing tall above the car’s rear as a symbol of the luxurious but oft-exaggerated jet age opulence.

While some manufacturers tried to rationalize tailfins (Plymouth claimed they served the same purpose as the jet stabilizers they resembled, and Mercedes-Benz offered that they were “sight lines” for backing up), the public grew tired of the tailfin race and its associated safety concerns. Manufacturers, too, were growing displeased with the complexity and expense of tailfins and the automotive focus for the ’60s shifted from style to performance with the dawn of true American muscle.

The Series 62 would only last for one more more generation, seceded for the 1965 model year by the Calais that would be Cadillac’s entry-level model through the 1970s.

The Guns

“Got a gun here, sir,” Kit admits as he almost sheepishly pulls his revolver from the back pocket of his jeans. “Always a good idea to have one around.” Mr. Sargis no doubt agrees, having his own top-break revolver that we’ve seen him use to kill Holly’s dog, but it’s not on his person at the moment. “Suppose I shot you? How’d that be?” a crazed Kit asks when Mr. Sargis moves downstairs to call the police. “You wanna hear what it sounds like?” he fires a round into the floor, for once actually shaking the firm father, though this act only strengthens Mr. Sargis’ resolve to get Kit away from him and his daughter.

While the real Charles Starkweather almost exclusively used long arms like rifles and shotguns during his crime spree (aside from a stolen .32-caliber semi-automatic pistol for which he had no ammunition), Badlands‘ Kit Carruthers is primarily armed with a Hi-Standard Sentinel revolver, likely chambered in the smaller .22 Long Rifle round.

Driving with his finger on the trigger is consistent with Kit's reckless personality.

Driving with his finger on the trigger is consistent with Kit’s reckless personality.

The story of these budget-friendly firearms began with Swedish immigrant Carl Gustav Swebilius, who founded his company manufacturing parts for firearms in Hamden, Connecticut, in 1926. Within a few years, Swebilius purchased the Hartford Arms and Equipment Company and begin manufacturing his own .22-caliber target pistols. High Standard rose to greater prominence during World War II, providing training pistols and silenced tactical weapons for Office of Strategic Services (OSS) agents.

Kit fires a round from his Hi-Standard Sentinel into the floor to demonstrate to Holly's father that he means business.

Kit fires a round from his Hi-Standard Sentinel into the floor to demonstrate to Holly’s father that he means business.

After the war, High Standard responded to a request from their partial owners Sears, Roebuck and Company to deliver a lightweight, low-cost “kit” revolver. In 1955, High Standard delivered with a traditional double/single-action, aluminum-framed revolver with a nine-round capacity of .22 rimfire ammunition that would be branded by Sears as the J.C. Higgins Model 88 and by Western Auto as the Revelation Model 99; High Standard would also market the weapon under its own brand as the Hi-Standard Sentinel R-100.

High Standard would continue updating the weapon through the 1970s, changing the designated model number with each variant until reaching R-109. Production of this popular and portable revolver ended in 1984. (You can read more about the history of the Hi-Standard Sentinel from TINCANBANDIT here.)

As a man of limited means, Kit Carruthers would have gravitated toward a budget-friendly revolver like the Hi-Standard Sentinel. Though it’s a double-action revolver (with a reportedly smooth trigger pull), Kit tends to pull back the hammer to fire in single-action any chance he gets, including while “fishing”, giving him greater control over the weapon and thus more accurate shooting… though he still can’t successfully hit any fish.

When Badlands debuted at the close of the 1973 New York Film Festival, Malick described Kit as “so desensitized that [he] can regard the gun with which he shoots people as a kind of magic wand that eliminates small nuisances,” per Vincent Canby in his flattering contemporary review for the New York Times.

Kit sleeps flanked by firearms, his checkered-grip Savage rifle behind his head and his Hi-Standard Sentinel revolver just inches away from his hand.

Kit sleeps flanked by firearms, his checkered-grip Savage rifle behind his head and his Hi-Standard Sentinel revolver just inches away from his hand.

For hiding out in the woods, Kit keeps a Remington Model 870 pump-action shotgun as his primary defense weapon, likely standing in for the budget-friendly .410 bore Stevens Model 59A shotgun stolen from Caril Ann Fugate’s murdered stepfather by the real Charlie Starkweather and referenced in Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska”:

From the town of Lincoln Nebraska with a sawed-off .410 on my lap / Through to the badlands of Wyoming I killed everything in my path…

Remington had long been seeking a replacement for their aging Model 31 shotgun and hoped to compete against the popular Winchester Model 1912 by introducing its own reliable, modern, and relatively inexpensive shotgun. Introduced in 1950, the Remington Model 870 has become a quickly popular shotgun in all segments from civilian hunters and sportsmen to law enforcement and military use. In 1973, the year that Badlands was released, Remington celebrated the two-millionth Model 870 manufactured, and it’s likely that production numbers has reached at least 11 million as of 2020 including all hunting and tactical variants of the weapon.

Over its 70+ years of production, Remington has offered the Model 870 in countless varieties of gauge, shell capacity, sight configuration, construction and finish, barrel length, and more, but Kit uses a classic 12-gauge Remington Model 870 with a riot-length 18″ barrel, blued steel finish with walnut slide and full stock, and standard underbarrel magazine tube with the distinctive “X” end cap.

Slowly emerging from the ground like Captain Willard from the swamp, Kit guns down three bounty hunters with his Remington Model 870.

Slowly emerging from the ground like Captain Willard from the swamp, Kit guns down three bounty hunters with his Remington Model 870.

Kit’s rifle is a lever-action Savage Model 99R, carried for most of the couple’s crime spree and most memorably used when Kit kills his one-time pal Cato, firing a .300-caliber round straight through the man’s stomach. “Is he upset?” Holly asks of the dying man. “He didn’t say anything to me about it,” replies Kit. (The rifle used by the real Starkweather for most of his murders was a Winchester Model 1906, a takedown slide-action rifle that had been chambered only for .22-caliber rimfire rounds and was often marketed as a youth rifle across its production timeline from 1906 into the 1930s, with more than 700,000 manufactured.)

Introduced in 1899 from a design by Arthur W. Savage, the Savage 99 followed the example of its Model 1895 predecessor, which was the first hammerless lever-action rifle and utilized an innovative rotary magazine with a spring-loaded spool. The Model 99 expanded on the capabilities of this unique magazine by adding technology to see how many rounds remain, though later models replaced this with a detachable box magazine. The Savage was never officially authorized for widespread military usage, despite being an early contender for U.S. Army trials in the 1890s and a number of .303 Savage rifles being issued in “musket” form to the Montreal Home Guard during World War I. Production of the Savage 99 and its variants lasted nearly a century with the last of more than one million Model 99 rifles manufactured in 1998. You can learn more about these popular American rifles at savage99.com.

While making his final dash for freedom in Montana, Kit asks a gas attendant if he can sell him “shells for a .300 Savage,” one of at least a dozen cartridges the Model 99 was offered in, ranging from .22-250 Remington up to .375 Winchester and even including custom rifles that fired a single shot of .410 bore shotgun ammunition. Kit’s screen-used Savage can be identified as the 99R model by its raised-ramp front sight, round-ended forearm, checkered grip, and steel shotgun-style buttplate.

Martin Sheen recalled that this memorable brief vignette of Kit with his Savage rifle was essentially an impulse, captured while Terrence Malick was driving through Colorado looking for filming locations. Malick manned the camera himself, as he reportedly often did during the production of Badlands.

Martin Sheen recalled that this memorable brief vignette of Kit with his Savage rifle was essentially an impulse, captured while Terrence Malick was driving through Colorado looking for filming locations. Malick manned the camera himself, as he reportedly often did during the production of Badlands.

What to Imbibe

For their feast of Spam and beans at Cato’s home, Kit and Cato each drink from bottles of Grain Belt beer. Brewed in Minnesota, this Midwest regional beer also appeared in the hands of the two hapless kidnappers in Fargo (1996) as well as on the pages of William Least Heat-Moon’s fantastic American travelogue, Blue Highways, described as the brew of choice of an aspiring sports announcer in a Bagley, Minnesota, tavern.

Beer, beans, and potted meat. Nothing but the good life for Kit Carruthers.

Beer, beans, and potted meat. Nothing but the good life for Kit Carruthers.

Two years after the merger that created the Minneapolis Brewing Company in 1891, the traditional German-style lager Grain Belt Golden was introduced on the market. During its first half-century in production, the regional favorite encountered many of the same tribulations as American breweries including an extended hiatus due to Prohibition, followed a decade later by wartime rationing, but it enjoyed a postwar boom with the introduction of Grain Belt Premium in 1947. The company fell into decline over the last quarter of the 20th century, but the Grain Belt brand was revived by the August Schell Brewing Company of New Ulm and continues to enjoy popularity across generations in the Midwest.

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

How to Get the Look

Kit Carruthers aims to fit the mold of a rebellious James Dean-type, incidentally creating his own iconic image in the simple but enduring outfit of vintage Levi’s jacket and jeans with boots that establish him as “quite the individual,” in the words of a lawman who brings him in.

  • Dark blue shrink-to-fit denim Levi’s 507XX “Type 2” trucker jacket
  • White cotton crew-neck short-sleeve T-shirt
  • Dark blue denim Levi’s 501XX button-fly jeans
  • Dark brown leather belt with dulled brass single-prong D-shape buckle
  • Black-and-white “mule ear” Western-styled boots

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The actual life and despicable crimes of the real Charlie Starkweather are far worse than the events presented in Badlands, and I recommend Michael Newton’s book Waste Land for those interested in learning about the inspiration for the story.

The Gallery

This post is already loaded with plenty of shots highlighting Rosanna Norton’s memorable costume design, Jack Fisk’s thoughtful art direction, and the sublime cinematography, but I couldn’t help but to add a few more scattered here that didn’t have a place above but serve to further illustrate Kit’s outfit and the overall tone of Badlands.

The Quote

I got some stuff to say. Guess I’m kinda lucky that way.

 

 

Gary Cooper in High Noon

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Gary Cooper as Marshal Will Kane in High Noon (1952)

Gary Cooper as Marshal Will Kane in High Noon (1952)

Vitals

Gary Cooper as Will Kane, newlywed city marshal

Hadleyville, New Mexico Territory, Summer 1873

Film: High Noon
Release Date: July 24, 1952
Director: Fred Zinnemann
Men’s Wardrobe Credit: Joe King

Background

Born 119 years ago today on May 7, 1901, Gary Cooper received his second Academy Award for Best Actor in recognition of his now-iconic performance in High Noon as a laconic lawman whose sense of duty compels him to make a lone stand against a band of dangerous outlaws.

“Each generation has imposed its own politics and values onto High Noon,” wrote Glenn Frankel for a detailed Vanity Fair retrospective in 2017. “Yet what has largely been forgotten is that the man who had written the script had set out with a very specific goal: to make an allegory about the Hollywood blacklist, the men who sought to enforce it, and the cowardly community that stood by silently and allowed it to happen.” Indeed, while screenwriter Carl Foreman had undoubtedly had the famous Red Scare in mind as he penned his script, High Noon has found fans on both ends of the political spectrum though it initially met with conservative-minded opposition from figures like John Wayne, who had refused the leading role and vehemently spoke out against the film’s anti-blacklist sentiment.

Though Duke and director Howard Hawks would eventually team up to make Rio Bravo in response to High Noon, Wayne still accepted Cooper’s Best Actor Oscar on his friend’s behalf, famously concluding his speech by joking that he was “gonna go back and find my business manager, and agent, and producer, and three-name writer, and find out why I didn’t get High Noon instead of Cooper!” High Noon also received the Academy Award for Best Film Editing and two Oscars in recognition of the soundtrack, composed by the prolific Dimitri Tiomkin who would also pen the score for Rio Bravo.

We meet the taciturn Will Kane on the morning of his wedding to Amy Fowler (Grace Kelly). “Well, one more ceremony and Will’s a free man,” declares the judge, as this bright Sunday is also to be Kane’s final day as the popular city marshal of Hadleyville, a fictional town in what was then New Mexico Territory. The upstanding lawman is reluctant to give up his badge until his replacement arrives and, only seconds after he hangs up the tin, he’s informed that the dangerous criminal Frank Miller (Ian MacDonald) has just been pardoned and is on his way to Hadleyville via the noon train. Awaiting Miller at the depot are a trio of dangerous gunmen—”three gunnies,” according to Deputy Marshal Harvey Pell (Lloyd Bridges)—which includes a young Lee Van Cleef making his screen debut.

Kane’s friends urge him to leave town as Miller no doubt wants to violently settle the score against the lawman who put him away, so a hesitant Kane begins riding away with his new bride, finally stopping his horses outside of town: “It’s no good, I’ve got to go back, Amy.” Despite Amy’s protestations, Kane buckles on his gun belt and pins his star back to his vest, choosing his duty to Hadleyville over his new marriage. However, Kane’s expectations of reciprocation fall dangerously short as no one in the town rises to his aid, with even his own deputy bitterly turning over his badge due to Kane’s reluctance to recommend the unscrupulous Harvey as his successor. Kane finds himself increasingly disillusioned over the following hour as his friends to continue to abandon him and the minutes creep closer to high noon and the inevitable confrontation with the Miller gang.

What’d He Wear?

High Noon essentially plays out in real time over its 84-minute running time, following Will Kane from his courthouse wedding right up through the famous gunfight on the street. Kane dresses for his nuptials in an informal variation of morning dress consisting of frock coat, striped waistcoat, and cashmere-striped “spongebag” trousers, though he wears it with his standard day wear of a flannel work shirt and string tie rather than the more formal white shirt and cravat.

Congratulations to the happy couple.

Congratulations to the happy couple.

Kane dresses up for his nuptials with a dark woolen flannel frock coat, an informal alternative to the dress coat. The single-breasted, two-button frock coat has a full-length, straight-cut skirt like a dress coat rather than the tapered cutaway quarters of a traditional morning coat. Kane’s frock coat has straight hip pockets with wide flaps, two non-functioning decorative buttons slightly spaced apart at the end of each sleeve, and two ornamental buttons along the back waist seam, a holdout from equestrian riding coats.

HIGH NOON

Apropos the setting, Will Kane wears a dark felt hat with a wide, curled brim and round crown in the telescope or gambler shape, but with a taller crown. Golden Gate Western Wear, home of Knudsen Hat Company, offers an all-black replica of Gary Cooper’s High Noon headgear and describes it as “similar to a gambler-style hat but taller in the crown and wider in the brim.”

The decision to place Gary Cooper’s heroic but flawed character in a black hat signified that High Noon was a new kind of Western, diverging from the decades-old practice of clearly establishing white hats for heroes and black hats for villains.

Just an hour after his wedding, a slightly wounded Will Kane is battling against a gang of criminals instead of beginning his honeymoon as he planned.

Just an hour after his wedding, a slightly wounded Will Kane is battling against a gang of criminals instead of beginning his honeymoon as he planned.

Kane wears a light-colored flannel shirt, likely an off-white or pale gray, that may have been too informal for a dressier wedding but suits him perfectly when he reverts to his duties as a marshal overseeing the town. The shirt has a soft, narrow attached collar with rounded corners like the classic “club collar”, and the long sleeves are shirred at the cuffs where they fasten through a single button. The shirt has a horizontal chest yoke that slants slightly toward the center, where the dark four-hole buttons contrast against the shirt’s front placket.

Alone, Will Kane prepares to face the dangerous men who swore revenge on him.

Alone, Will Kane prepares to face the dangerous men who swore revenge on him.

Dressing up for his wedding, Kane wears a dark bow string tie patterned with a neatly arranged array of pin dots, though he ultimately discards the tie after it gets loosened and disheveled during his stables fight with a drunken Harvey Pell. This style of neckwear was common in the old West—indeed, even the justice who marries Will and Amy wears one—as a cross between the more gentrified bow tie and the bolo-style string tie associated with cowboys and ranchers.

HIGH NOON

After discarding his frock coat, Kane re-pins his five-pointed Marshal star to the left side of his waistcoat (known as a “vest” in colloquial American parlance.) Kane’s vest is patterned in a balanced two-tone stripe that clashes with the slightly different “cashmere stripe” of his trousers, though these garments weren’t meant to match. The single-breasted, six-button vest has a shawl collar that is cut off at the back, which is finished in a dark satin lining. He wears his pocket watch in the right-side pocket of the vest’s two forward-slanting, slim-welted lower pockets with the chain strung “single Albert”-style through a hole next to the vest’s third buttonhole, and the fob hangs free.

Kane visits with his former flame, Helen Ramírez (Katy Jurado).

Kane visits with his former flame, Helen Ramírez (Katy Jurado).

Kane’s formal striped trousers emerged in fashion during the early 19th century to accompany the frock coat for daytime dress. The “cashmere stripe” refers to the distinctive gray-and-black striping pattern and not the soft, luxurious wool obtained from the cashmere goat. Kane’s wool trousers follow the cashmere stripe or “spongebag” tradition with balanced stripes that alternate in width, likely black stripes against a dark ground ground. The trouser bottoms are plain-hemmed, befitting their more formal context.

The trousers are more reflective of the contemporary 1950s production than the old west era depicted on screen. Most men’s trousers before the 1920s weren’t even made with belt loops, typically held up with suspenders that connected to buttons around the waist, though Kane’s cashmere-striped trousers are worn with a wide, dark leather belt; even if some in the old west did wear belts with trousers, these more formal trousers would not have been a likely candidate to be worn with a belt. Kane’s trousers have a flat front, another concession to the ’50s as most formal trousers had pleats; in some instances, his gun belt bunches the fabric on the front of his trousers together to create the appearance of reverse-facing pleats. However, the flat front pattern of Kane’s trousers is more complementary with the Western-inspired front pockets with their concave-slanted openings.

HIGH NOON

As this particular Sunday was supposed to see no more action than Will Kane’s wedding and his last day on the job, Kane hadn’t been wearing his gun belt until he realized he would be facing down Frank Miller’s gang. He returns to his office and straps on a dark leather Buscadero gun belt with a solid octagonal single-prong ranger buckle and his single-action revolver holstered against his right thigh for a right-handed draw.

The accepted history of the low-slung Buscadero rig is that these were first worn by Texas lawmen around the turn of the 20th century and soon popularized by movie cowboys from the early years of the silent era through the golden age of Western serials into the 1950s, worn by icons like Gene Autry, Roy Rogers, and the Lone Ranger. The Buscadero has long been figured to be an accepted anachronism, an element that adds to the American cowboy mythos even if most Western gunslingers carried different holsters… if they holstered their sidearms at all! (To read more about how guns were actually carried in the old west, check out Jane C. Bischoff’s “The Buscadero Bio” for True West magazine, Phil Spangenberger’s “Hideout Hijinks” (also for True West), and Cochise Leather Company’s history of Western gun leather.

Will Kane diligently loads and checks his arms while Harvey Pell couldn't be bothered to do any more than sit around and resent that he isn't being gifted Kane's old job.

Will Kane diligently loads and checks his arms while Harvey Pell couldn’t be bothered to do any more than sit around and resent that he isn’t being gifted Kane’s old job.

While much of Will Kane’s wardrobe isn’t unfamiliar when compared to the prototypical heroes of Western fiction, one differing aspect that I appreciate are his boots. As opposed to the taller cowboy boots or roper boots seemingly ubiquitous in Westerns, Will wears ankle-high dress boots more appropriate for a day where he expected nothing more than to get married and ride out of town via wagon. Likely black leather, his plain-toe boots have gently raised heels and pull tabs, not unlike Chelsea boots though they lack the elastic side gussets.

The considerably lower shafts of Kane’s boots gives us a glimpse of the black socks he wears as he catches his breath following his fight with Harvey Pell.

...though Harve would come to regret dismissing Kane so freely.

…though Harve would come to regret dismissing Kane so freely.

These boots are best seen in a behind-the-scenes photo of the cast watching TV, an entertaining juxtaposition of the cast dressed for the 1870s while experiencing a contraption that wouldn’t be introduced for decades yet.

Go Big or Go Home

John Boessenecker neatly illustrates the sacrifices made and difficulty faced by American city marshals who sought to carry out their work with honesty in his excellent biography Texas Ranger: The Epic Life of Frank Hamer, The Man Who Killed Bonnie and Clyde, particularly as described in the chapter highlighting Hamer’s brief but colorful service “taming” the Texas border town of Navasota:

The office of city marshal—tantamount to a chief of police—should not be confused with the U.S. marshal, a federal lawman appointed by the president. The city marshal’s jurisdiction was within city or town limits. As a rule, smaller towns with a few officers had city marshals; larger communities had a chief of police… The city marshal’s duties were set both by custom and law. By custom, marshals would patrol the streets on foot and horseback and respond to calls for assistance. At night they walked back alleys, shook doorknobs, and looked out for prowlers, burglars, and rowdy drunks. Under Texas law, marshals were specifically required to identify and arrest all vagrants in their jurisdiction; to suppress gambling and confiscate gaming tables and gambling paraphernalia; to enforce public health, sanitary, and quarantine statutes; to enforce antiprostitution laws; and to maintain a fee book of all court costs in civil and criminal cases. In many communities, they were also charged with such mundane tasks as keeping roads and bridges in good repair, maintaining public windmills, and picking up stray dogs.

For every thousand people in small towns today, there is an average of two full-time police officers. Under that formula, a town like Navasota, which then had 3,200 people, would have six officers. But in 1908, no community that small had a tax base large enough to pay for six police. As a result, western and rural villages often hired the toughest marshal they could find, knowing that for the most part he would have to handle criminals and rowdies alone. Only in cases of emergency would the county sheriff or his deputies be able to help.

“If you’re honest, you’re poor your whole life,” explains the town’s former marshal, Martin Howe (Lon Chaney), who Kane seeks out for advice with less than a half-hour until noon. There’s plenty that can be gleaned about Will Kane’s character by his choice to become the Hadleyville city marshal, having evidently served well enough to earn the respect of most townspeople… and illustrating just how selfish they are not to assist in his time of need after the range of duties he would have been expected to perform for them.

The Guns

Like myriad Western heroes in movies, TV, and real life, Will Kane relies on the tried-and-true Single Action Army, the Colt revolver introduced in 1873 that quickly gained fame as the “Peacemaker”. The original Single Action Army was chambered in the powerful new .45 Long Colt round, though a wide range would become available including rifle calibers like the .32-20 Winchester, .38-40 Winchester, and .44-40 Winchester so that users would conveniently need only one type of ammunition that would serve both revolver and rifle. (The .44-40 Colts were officially marketed as the Colt Frontier Six-Shooter when production began in 1877.)

Colt originally offered the Single Action Army with a 7½” barrel. This long-barreled configuration would become known as the “Cavalry” model, with additional variants including the “Civilian”, “Gunfighter”, or “Quickdraw” model (4¾” barrel) and “Artillery” model (5½” barrel). While shorter- and longer-barreled SAA revolvers were produced like Wyatt Earp’s apocryphal “Buntline Special” with its foot-long barrel, these three barrel lengths were the standard for mass production as well as military issue during the last quarter of the 19th century.

Colt would produce more than 350,000 of these revolvers during the first generation of Single Action Army production, which began in October 1873 as the “New Model Army Metallic Cartridge Revolving Pistol” in .45 Colt and ended around 1940 following the introduction of varying barrel lengths and at least 30 different caliber options. As Westerns grew in popularity and the Single Action Army itself began attracting renewed attention after World War II, William R. Wilson founded the Great Western Arms Company to produce copies of the original Single Action Army, inspiring many other companies to follow including Cimarron Firearms, Freedom Arms, Ruger, Uberti (now owned by Beretta), and even Colt, who resumed production in 1956.

Will Kane carries a Single Action Army Artillery model holstered on his right hip, through he also pulls a second Peacemaker with a shorter Civilian-type barrel from his desk drawer and tucks it into his waistband.

In this shot, Will carries his Civilian model of the Single Action Army, differentiated as the end of the ejector rod is flush with the muzzle of the 4¾" barrel.

In this shot, Will carries his Civilian model of the Single Action Army, differentiated as the end of the ejector rod is flush with the muzzle of the 4¾” barrel.

Though the first Single Action Army wouldn’t be produced by Colt until October 1873, nearly six months after High Noon is set, it’s ubiquitous as the preferred sidearm of not just Will Kane but also the four men who came to Hadleyville in search of him as well as his former deputy, Harvey Pell, whose pearl-handled Single Action Army is taken from his discarded holster by Amy during the film’s climax. (Interestingly, Frank Hamer was presented with a Civilian model Colt Single Action Army in 1910 by the Navasota city council in recognition of his exemplary work as city marshal; he would continue to carry “Old Lucky” for the rest of his career.)

Few other firearms are featured in High Noon, though Kane is seen inspecting the Winchester Model 1873 lever-action rifles in his office. He appears to load his weapons with Winchester brand ammunition as well.

How to Get the Look

Gary Cooper as Marshal Will Kane in High Noon (1952)

Gary Cooper as Marshal Will Kane in High Noon (1952)

Gary Cooper’s outfit as a lawman standing tall in the old West is very specific for its time and place, though I help this provides a helpful guide for any potential cosplayers, High Noon-themed Halloween costumes, or just gents who want to add a dash of Will Kane into their wardrobe.

  • Black flannel single-breasted 2-button frock coat with notch lapels, wide-flapped straight hip pockets, decorative 2-button cuffs, and decorative 2-button back waist seam
  • Off-white flannel shirt with soft rounded-corner collar, front placket with dark contrasting buttons, slanted front yoke, and shirred 1-button cuffs
  • Dark pin-dotted silk bow string tie
  • Dark striped wool single-breasted 6-button waistcoat/vest with shawl collar, two forward-slanting slim-welted pockets, and straight hem
  • Black-on-gray cashmere-striped woolen formal trousers with tall belt loops, slanted Western-style front pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark leather trouser belt with large squared single-prong buckle
  • Dark leather Buscadero gun belt with solid octagonal single-prong ranger buckle and right-hand-draw holster
  • Black leather plain-toe ankle boots
  • Black socks
  • Black felt gambler-style cowboy hat with tall round crown, black silk band, and curled brim

One outfitter that specializes in recreating menswear (and women’s fashions) from this period is Historical Emporium.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

They’re makin’ me run, I’ve never run from anybody before.

Footnote

While High Noon never makes its setting explicit, there are some context clues that I was able to use to pin down the date. The use of the 37-stag flag suggests a time frame to within 1867 and 1877, assuming that Hadleyville keeps vexillogically current. Particularly with earlier Westerns, Hollywood notoriously armed its gunslingers with Colt 1873 Single Action Army revolvers and Winchester Model 1873 rifles even if the true setting was decades earlier, but we’ll give High Noon the benefit of the doubt and narrow the time frame to the mid-1870s. (There are still some anachronisms as pointed out by IMDB, including Pabst signs and pre-gummed envelopes that were not used until the 1890s as well as a boarding house dated “1888”, but I like to think that this flag was chosen for a reason with the filmmakers intending an earlier setting.)

The pendulum clock on Mart’s wall indicates that it’s July, specifically a July where the first day was a Tuesday, which could have only been 1873. We know this is a Sunday, and the train depot calendar says “26/27”, so we can effectively pinpoint the setting of High Noon to be Sunday, July 27, 1873.

The Band Wagon: Fred Astaire in Brown and Pink

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Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Vitals

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter, musical comedy star

Washington, D.C., to Baltimore via train, Spring 1953

Film: The Band Wagon
Release Date: August 7, 1953
Director: Vincente Minnelli
Costume Designer: Mary Ann Nyberg

Background

In addition to being Mother’s Day, today also commemorates the birthday of the multi-talented song-and-dance legend Fred Astaire, born May 10, 1899, in Omaha. To honor this elegant dance legend and suggest an outfit that your mother may appreciate as you’re delivering flowers (or communicating via FaceTime, depending on your level of pandemic-informed social distancing today), let’s take a look at a pleasant but all-too-briefly featured outfit from Astaire’s 1953 musical The Band Wagon.

Tony Hunter (Astaire) should be feeling on top of the world, starring in a successful show written specifically for him by his friends, the Martons, that’s being warmly received on its national tour. However, our poor Tony admits to Lester Marton (Oscar Levant) en route their Baltimore performance that he’s still feeling unsatisfied, the result of what he believes to be a deep yet unrequited love for his glamorous co-star, Gaby Gerard (Cyd Charisse).

What’d He Wear?

Fred Astaire extended his dapper dressing tendencies in real life onto the silver screen, colorfully yet tastefully appointed by Mary Ann Nyberg’s Academy Award-nominated costume design that shone from the screen thanks to Harry Jackson’s cinematography.

For this brief train ride between performances, Tony wears a rich brown flannel sports coat, perfectly tailored with a two-button front that fastens at Astaire’s natural waist line, balancing the pink shirt and tie on top and the gray flannel trousers on bottom.

The single-breasted jacket has substantial notch lapels with a buttonhole through the left lapel should Fred determine the situation would call for a boutonnière. Slightly padded at the shoulders to build out Astaire’s lean frame, the jacket is finished at the ends of each sleeve with three woven brown leather buttons that echo the buttons on the front of the jacket. A flapped ticket pocket on the right side supplements the two flapped pockets positioned straight on the hips, and Tony wears a subtle navy-and-red printed silk pocket square that—per Astaire’s usual approach to pocket hanks—barely rises out of the welted breast pocket but adds a colorful dash that coordinates with his lighter shirt and tie.

“As for his shirts—they cost him from $12 to $25—he sometimes has them custom-made but usually picks them up from the counter. Except for full dress, he likes a soft shirt front, and light colors in the pink, blue, and tan range… He prefers a well-made buttoned cuff to French cuffs… As for the collars, he dislikes the tab and prefers the button-down and the wide-spread collar—braced by staves,” Astaire’s personal taste is described in a GQ exploration, with all of these preferences evident on screen.

Tony continues his pattern of wearing shirts and ties in the same color (e.g. his blue-on-blue with the opening gray double-breasted suit or yellow-on-yellow while “Dancing in the Dark”), this time in shades of pink. His pinpoint cotton shirt has an elegantly rolled button-down collar and single-button rounded cuffs, and his silk tie—perfectly dimpled below the four-in-hand knot—is just a shade darker, held in place with a thin gold bar positioned a few inches above the jacket’s buttoning point. “I’m narrow enough myself, too narrow,” Astaire joked to GQ about his preference for wider ties.

Tony Hunter's colorful attire stands apart from the conservative suits, white shirts, and dark ties worn by the rest of his production's creative team.

Tony Hunter’s colorful attire stands apart from the conservative suits, white shirts, and dark ties worn by the rest of his production’s creative team.

Tony grounds the colorful outfit with a pair of dark gray woolen flannel double reverse-pleated trousers with an appropriately high rise that meets the jacket buttoning point at the waist, so perfectly proportioned that the effect never falters even when Astaire slumps into a seat on the train, one leg hitched over the arm as he turns to allow pal Lester to light his cigarette. We get only the glimpse of his belt, which appears to be a more traditional strip of light brown leather that tapers to a squared gold single-prong buckle—pulled off to one side—rather than the colorful silk scarves Astaire frequently wore as belts while dancing.

The bottoms of Tony’s slacks are finished with turn-ups (cuffs), and Astaire’s posture while seated shows off his choice of cream-colored socks, a relatively subdued color choice when compared to his red, gold, and blue hosiery elsewhere in The Band Wagon, but still a high contrast that catches the eye between the bottom of his dark trousers and his dark brown suede English-made oxfords that have either a cap-toe or a brogued wingtip.

Only a graceful hoofer like Fred Astaire could maintain the neat proportions of his outfit while assuming such a laidback position.

Only a graceful hoofer like Fred Astaire could maintain the neat proportions of his outfit while assuming such a laidback position.

Astaire accessorizes with his usual affectations, a gold signet ring on his right pinky and a gold curb-chain bracelet on his left wrist.

How to Get the Look

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

“I know that once in awhile I’ve been on lists of best-dressed men,” Fred Astaire once told GQ,,”but it always comes as a surprise to me. I never think of myself as spic and span or all duded out—just as someone who wants to be comfortable and satisfy his own taste.” (Worth noting is that Astaire was also wearing a light pink shirt for said interview.)

One of the finest dressers of Hollywood’s fabled Golden Age, Astaire perfectly balanced color and taste in his well-tailored wardrobe, illustrated by his costumes in The Band Wagon like this grounded brown sports coat and gray flannel slacks with a pink-on-pink shirt and tie combination that follows his creed for dressing: “Be yourself—but don’t be conspicuous.”

  • Brown woolen flannel single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets with flapped right-side ticket pocket, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Light pink pinpoint cotton shirt with button-down collar and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Pink silk tie
  • Thin gold tie bar
  • Dark gray woolen flannel double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Light brown leather belt that tapers to gold-toned squared single-prong buckle
  • Dark brown suede oxford shoes
  • Cream socks
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Gold curb-chain bracelet
  • Burgundy silk pocket square

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

Henry Hill’s Cadillac – May 11, 1980

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Goodfellas fans likely recall that 40 years ago today was full of manic mayhem for mob associate Henry Hill. Check out this throwback Car Week post for a look at Henry’s oversized striped knit shirt, pounds of gold jewelry, and his saddle-colored Cadillac from this famous sequence!

 

BAMF Style

Ray Liotta as Henry Hill in Goodfellas (1990) Ray Liotta as Henry Hill in Goodfellas (1990)

Vitals

Ray Liotta as Henry Hill, coked out Mafia associate

Long Island, NY, Spring 1980

Film: Goodfellas
Release Date: September 19, 1990
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

Background

First things first, the scene is actually set on Sunday, April 27, 1980. For some reason, Goodfellas chose to re-date Henry’s arrest to two weeks later. Okay, glad we got that cleared up.

Yesterday, we saw a mobster’s luxury car during the post-war era. Thirty years later, the “Lincoln vs. Cadillac” debate (made famous by Donnie Brasco) rages on. While a boss like Sonny drove a Lincoln in 1947, a street guy like Henry is even able to get behind the wheel of a Cadillac in 1979. And not just any Cadillac, but a “Special Edition” Coupe de Ville Phaeton! These were not small cars, and I can’t imagine trying to…

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