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Justified: Raylan’s “Harlan Roulette” Grid-Check Shirt and Glock

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Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 3.03: "Harlan Roulette")

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 3.03: “Harlan Roulette”)

Vitals

Timothy Olyphant as Raylan Givens, old-fashioned Deputy U.S. Marshal

Harlan County, Kentucky, Fall 2011

Series: Justified
Episode: “Harlan Roulette” (Episode 3.03)
Air Date: January 31, 2012
Director: Jon Avnet
Creator: Graham Yost
Costume Designer:  Patia Prouty

Background

More than two years have passed since I last waxed poetic about Justified, Graham Yost’s continuation of Elmore Leonard’s stories and novels centered around Raylan Givens, a modern-day Deputy U.S. Marshal who brings old west sensibilities and style to his duties. After being criticized by his superiors for his all-too-quick—if justified—trigger finger, Raylan is reassigned to the Eastern District of Kentucky, which includes the coal-mining Harlan County where was raised and acquainted with arch-criminal Boyd Crowder (Walton Goggins) as well as many other colorful characters who shoot in and out of the series over its six seasons.

As we get closer to the weekend, I wanted to revisit one of my favorite moments from the series as well as Raylan’s characteristically dressed-down off-duty duds.

The third season episode “Harlan Roulette” opens innocuously enough with Raylan and his ex-wife Winona (Natalie Zea) discussing potential homes—and their respective commodes (“sounded better than crapper”)—as they explore their own reconciliation. Raylan’s buzzing BlackBerry calls him away to a roadblock related to his ongoing investigation of the dimwitted petty crook and oxy addict Wade Messer (James LeGros, who was the first to portray Raylan Givens in the 1997 made-for-TV adaptation Pronto.) Raylan’s pursuit of Messer leads him to a pawnshop owned by the crooked Glen Fogle (Pruitt Taylor Vince) and eventually back to the messy Messer homestead, where he elicits from Fogle that the local oxy chain leads up to smarmy Dixie Mafia chief Wynn Duffy (Jere Burns) before a standoff between Fogle and his own flunky Wally Becket (Eric Ladin) results in both men dead… and a still-standing Raylan fuming over his lost lead.

In a rage, Raylan storms into Duffy’s trailer—initially ignoring the even smarmier Robert Quarles (Neal McDonough) beaming at him from the corner—and knocks Duffy to the floor with two hits, ejecting a live round from his Glock and tossing it onto Duffy’s chest with the badass threat:

Next one’s comin’ faster.

What’d He Wear?

“That guy down there with the hat… his name’s Raylan Givens, he’s a marshal,” Wade Messer tells his friend as they pull up to the roadblock. As that wide-brimmed hat is arguably his sartorial signature, let’s start with Raylan’s crowning accessory and work our way head to toe through his extremely accessible layered look.

One of Elmore Leonard’s conditions in allowing Justified to get made would be outfitting Raylan with the proper hat as the author cites this wardrobe failure from the making of Pronto when “they gave poor James LeGros a George Strait hat that looked like it was ready to take off.” While Timothy Olyphant’s screen-worn cowboy hat wasn’t exactly Leonard’s preferred Stetson Open Road—previously favored by presidents like Ike and LBJ—the handsome hat that made its way onto the show becomes an integral part of the Raylan GIvens image.

Olyphant had first worked with Baron Hats when they crafted his character’s headgear on the HBO proto-Western series Deadwood, so the L.A. milliner was a natural choice when he needed to dress his dome for Justified. Baron Hats proudly elaborates on their work for Justified on their website, where they continue to market “The RG”, available in the same sahara tan 200XXX beaver felt as worn on the show with a 4.25″ cattleman’s crown, 3.25″ brim, and that slim tooled leather band with its steel ranger-style single-prong buckle.

Even off duty, Raylan wears his signature hat.

Even off duty, Raylan wears his signature hat.

As this wasn’t supposed to be a workday for Raylan, he’s dressed not in his usual sport jacket and tie but instead a button-up shirt layered over a coordinating henley. The long-sleeved henley shirt is black cotton with a three-button top, worn under a shirt patterned in a subdued black-and-taupe mini-grid check.

Identified by the Facebook page @EverythingJustified as a Converse by John Varvatos garment, this shirt has a short point collar, a front placket with contrasting double edge-stitching and all seven mixed brown plastic buttons worn undone, and long sleeves with the button cuffs also unbuttoned and rolled up his forearms.

Raylan wisely keeps one hand on his holster.

Raylan wisely keeps one hand on his holster.

Whether on duty or off, Raylan invariably wears Levi’s jeans, evidently wearing the classic Levi’s 501 “Original Fit” button-fly jeans here with all the familiar elements like the two horse back patch, arcuate pocket stitching, and small red tab sewn against in the inside of his back right pocket.

Raylan wears a dark brown tooled leather belt with a steel single-prong buckle. On the right side of his belt for a strong-handed draw, he wears a tan full-grain leather holster for his Glock service pistol, which had been custom made by Alfonso Gun Leather of Hollywood (confirmed by the post-wrap ScreenBid auction) to resemble the Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® that he’d worn in the first season.

JUSTIFIED

Kentucky State Police trooper Tom Bergen (Peter Murnik) accuses Raylan of letting Messer get away, but Raylan corrects him: “One of your boys let him get away, I got the driver… besides, these boots aren’t made for runnin’.”

“And yet, chasin’ fugitives is a marshal’s primary function,” counters Tom. “Ironic, isn’t it?” comments Raylan.

Raylan surprisingly admits to putting form over function in his choice of footwear, sporting cowboy boots that support his “cowboy cop” image while potentially hindering his job performance. After costume designer Patia Prouty joined the series for the second season onward, she would eventually Raylan’s already well-worn Justin anteater boots with the familiar cigar-colored Lucchese ostrich leg boots for the third season onward.

Raylan steps near a dying Glen Fogle.

Raylan steps near a dying Glen Fogle.

Raylan’s watch, after a few shots in the pilot episode clearly depicting a Rolex Submariner, has been identified as a brushed steel TAG Heuer Series 6000 Chronometer with a white dial worn for most of the series. The bracelet does seem to alternate, with brown leather straps in some episodes or black leather in others, and “Harlan Roulette” actually features both; when Raylan answers his BlackBerry in the opening scenes, his watch strap appears to be dark brown but it’s black by the time he’s reached the roadblock and is rubbing his eyes for the first (of many!) times during that episode.

Does Raylan's watch strap alternate between brown and black leather, or is this an illusion due to the lighting?

Does Raylan’s watch strap alternate between brown and black leather, or is this an illusion due to the lighting?

For an additional cowboy-influenced touch, Raylan regularly wears a sterling silver statement ring with a horseshoe and braided sides that taper toward the back of the band.

The Gun

“Howdy. That’s a big gun,” greets Robert Quarles as Raylan storms into Wynn Duffy’s trailer, Glock-first. It’s the same Glock 17 service pistol that Raylan had carried from the first season, chambered in 9x19mm Parabellum despite his telling Judge Reardon in “The Hammer” (Episode 1.10) that it was a .45-caliber model.

As a badass TV lawman in the tradition of the old west, Raylan gets plenty of screen time with his Glock, though “Harlan Roulette” features arguably one of the most memorable moments when he racks the slide to eject a round, catches it in mid-air, and throws it onto the floored Wynn Duffy, warning him: “next one’s comin’ faster.”

Raylan ejects a round from his Glock.

Raylan ejects a round from his Glock.

Developed in the early 1980s, Glock pistols heralded a revolution in the world of firearms, kicking off a series of mostly identical polymer-framed, striker-fired semi-automatic pistols with high-capacity magazines a reputation for reliability that led to widespread adoption by countless law enforcement agencies and military forces around the globe. The company had been founded by Gaston Glock, an Austrian engineer whose experience extended to curtain rods rather than firearms by the time he answered the Austrian Armed Forces’ call for a new, modernized service sidearm to replace its aging stocks of World War II-era Walther P38 pistols.

Glock pulled together experts from across Europe to develop a pistol that met all 17 criteria ordained by the Austrian Ministry of Defence and its final product, the 17th patent procured by the company (hence the designation “Glock 17”), was deemed the winner with production beginning in 1982 following its swift adoption by the Austrian military.

When the public learned of Glock’s innovative lightweight polymer frames, fear-mongering rumors spread of the “plastic gun” that would be able to bypass airport security, propagated by a 1986 article in The Washington Post and again as a significant but ultimately erroneous plot point in Die Hard 2. (While the frames are polymer, most internal parts are still metal… not to mention the ammunition!)

One notable aspect of Glock pistols are that models of the same caliber have interchangeable magazines, regardless of the frame size. For instance, Raylan could use the same magazines in his full-size Glock 17 pistol as in the other 9x19mm models, including the compact Glock 19, subcompact Glock 26, and even the selective-fire Glock 18. As of August 2020, Glock’s lineup includes nearly three dozen pistols of varying sizes across eight different caliber options.

What to Listen to

In addition to its bluegrass-meets-hip hop theme song “Long Hard Times to Come” by Gangstagrass, Justified excels in scoring its episodes with little-known but deliciously Southern-fried tracks that add flavor without distraction. For example, Raylan’s visit to Glen Fogle’s pawnshop features “If I Change My Mind” from Steven Yell’s 2012 album The Good Life and Hard Times of Rayford Mulestedder Greatest Hits, Vol. 2.

Long Hard Times to Come (feat. T.O.N.E-z) If I Change My Mind

I doubt I would have ever heard this catchy country song outside of Justified, but it’s exactly the sort of music you’d expect to hear from the show and that album name alone justifies its inclusion.

How to Get the Look

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 3.03: "Harlan Roulette")

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 3.03: “Harlan Roulette”)

While the cowboy touches of cattleman’s hat and ostrich leg boots may not be your particular style, the rest of Raylan Givens’ off-duty garb in “Harlan Roulette” provides a comfortable, casual, and easy template to follow when layering over the seasonal transition from summer into fall.

  • Black cotton long-sleeve 3-button henley shirt
  • Black-and-taupe mini-grid check cotton long-sleeve shirt with short point collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Blue denim Levi’s 501 Original Fit button-fly jeans
  • Dark brown tooled leather belt with a dulled steel single-prong buckle
  • Tan full grain leather thumb-break belt holster, for full-size Glock pistol
  • Lucchese “cigar”-colored brown ostrich leg Western-style boots with decorative stitched calf leather shafts
  • Baron Hats “The RG” sahara tan 200XXX beaver felt cattleman’s hat with a thin tooled leather band
  • TAG Heuer Series 6000 Chronometer wristwatch with brushed steel case, white dial, and black leather strap
  • Sterling silver horseshoe ring with braided side detail
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series. I also recommend that fans of the show who are on Facebook follow the great page @EverythingJustified which features many great photos, videos, and moments from the series as well as shots of screen-worn gear.

The Quote

I think the question you should ask is whether I care if you ride out of here cuffed in the back of my car or get carried out of here in a coroner’s bag. The answer is: me and dead owls… don’t give a hoot.


Goodfellas: 30 Significant Style Moments

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Vitals

Film: Goodfellas
Release Date: September 19, 1990
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today marks the 30th anniversary since my favorite movie, Goodfellas, was released, ten days after it premiered to rave reviews at the 47th International Venice Film Festival. Based on the true story told in Nicholas Pileggi’s book Wiseguy, this Martin Scorsese-directed mob epic details a life in organized crime as recalled by Lucchese Mafia family associate-turned-informant Henry Hill (Ray Liotta), from his teenage years in the 1950s through adulthood until his arrest on May 11, 1980.

The ensemble cast includes Robert de Niro, Joe Pesci, Paul Sorvino, and Frank Sivero as Henry’s criminal colleagues and Lorraine Bracco as his wife and eventual accomplice.

Pesci, Liotta, and De Niro in Goodfellas.

Pesci, Liotta, and De Niro in Goodfellas.


What’d They Wear?

1. The crossed-and-tucked tie

Brooklyn, Summer 1955

As a pre-teen Henry wistfully watches from his window, silk-suited gangsters pull their Cadillacs up to the Cicero brothers’ cab stand in East New York, reflecting the first chapter of Wiseguy. In addition to the opulent clothing and jewelry, one of Hill’s recollections as recorded in Pileggi’s book was that “some of the visitors were so large that, when they hauled themselves out of their cars, the vehicles rose by inches.” We see this depicted on screen when Tony Stacks (Tony Sirico) draws up to the Pitkin Avenue cabstand in his black Cadillac, out of which steps the girthy Ronnie (Ronald Maccone), who slowly closes the car door behind him and reveals that he hasn’t even bothered to put forth the effort of tying his tie, instead just crossing it over his expansive belly and tucking the blade and tail into different parts of his trousers.

Ronnie makes his nightly visit to the cabstand.

Ronnie makes his nightly visit to the cabstand.

Fifteen years later, an adult Henry would emulate this look with a bronze silk tie worn with a mustard checked sport jacket to play cards with his fellow ‘fellas, likely choosing this affectation in tribute to the gangsters he had observed in his youth.

2. Young Henry Hill’s first “gangster” suit

Brooklyn, Summer 1956

Mrs. Hill recoils in horror as her teenaged son Henry (Christopher Serrano) proudly presents himself to her in his latest threads, a beige worsted suit with a sharp double-breasted cut, accompanied by a tonally coordinated cream silk tie with a four-in-hand knot nearly buried by the sharp point collar of his ecru shirt. It’s yet another reinforcement of how important clothing is to underworld status.

As she takes in her son’s new appearance—and his chosen vocation—from head to toe, Mrs. Hill’s eyes linger at the polished brown semi-brogue oxfords with their gleaming toe caps taunting her. His mother’s response must have been music to Henry’s ears, given what his first voice-over shared about his professional aspirations:

My god… you look like a gangster!

"Hi, Mom! Whaddya think?" Henry beams with pride as he shows off his new suit.

“Hi, Mom! Whaddya think?” Henry beams with pride as he shows off his new suit.

3. Meeting Jimmy Conway in blue dupioni silk

Queens, Summer 1956

“It was a glorious time… It was before Apalachin and before Crazy Joe decided to take on a boss and start a war. It’s when I met the world; it’s when I first met Jimmy Conway.” Goodfellas lets us be just as impressed with Jimmy (Robert De Niro) as the teenaged Henry was as the arch-criminal gets a grand introduction, striding through the door of a Queens gambling den in a dark blue dupioni silk suit, the double-breasted jacket elegantly wrapped over his white-on-white shirt and tie as he hands out twenties, fifties, and hundreds to doormen, bartenders, and our teenaged protagonist who brings him a seven-and-seven.

Jimmy the Gent works the room.

Jimmy the Gent works the room.

4. A more subdued Jimmy Conway

New York City, Summer 1956

Jimmy Conway displays a tactful sense of dress, pressing his mobbed-up silks into service for nights among his fellow gangsters but wisely toning it down as needed for occasions like his young protege’s first court appearance. When Henry “breaks his cherry” in court, Jimmy is there to greet him with a $100 bill and the oft-quoted credo of the underworld: “Never rat on your friends, and always keep your mouth shut.” Jimmy’s subtle dark gray business suit and open-neck white shirt is a timeless look, avoiding the dramatic cloths and cuts of gangland fashions.

Proudly draping his arm around him to escort him from the courtroom, Jimmy's pride in the young Henry concretes his role as a de facto father figure, rewarding his new criminal vocation rather than beating him for it.

Proudly draping his arm around him to escort him from the courtroom, Jimmy’s pride in the young Henry concretes his role as a de facto father figure, rewarding his new criminal vocation rather than beating him for it.

5. Adult Henry at Idlewild Airport, 1963

Queens, Summer 1963

Few characters have received such an epic screen introduction. To the tune of Billy Ward and the Dominoes’ lush doo wop rendition of “Stardust”, we meet the now 20-year-old Henry Hill (Ray Liotta) while working with his explosive pal Tommy to hijack a truck outside Idlewild Airport, soon to be renamed JFK in tribute to the 35th President of the United States.

I consider this to be one of my top five “formative” outfits in my men’s style journey, as I was absolutely transfixed by every detail of Henry’s outfit in this scene. Indeed, the steady pan up from Henry’s olive-tinted alligator tassel loafers, the gray silk suit, and that black-and-white striped knit shirt, establish that Scorsese and company are well-aware how important clothing is to gangsters and how much an expensive and eye-catching wardrobe communicates success in their world.

Right on time, an elegantly casual Henry and Tommy smoothly carry out one of many truck hijackings.

Right on time, an elegantly casual Henry and Tommy smoothly carry out one of many truck hijackings.

Read more about the outfit here.

6. Henry’s flashy black-and-white nightclub garb

Brooklyn, Summer 1963

The adult Henry knocks it out of the park with back-to-back notable style which, while it may not be to everyone’s taste, exhibits just enough flash to confirm that he hasn’t spent the last seven years becoming an accountant. Our protagonist of sorts illustrates how wearing exclusively black and white can be anything but boring, sporting a creamy ivory silk sports jacket with a matching tie, the pièce de résistance being his black-bodied shirt with a white contrast collar that would flashy enough in its own rihgt, made all the more unique by being one of the razor-sharp “spearpoint” collars that Scorsese liked to dress his gangsters in.

Production photo of Ray Liotta in Goodfellas.

Production photo of Ray Liotta in Goodfellas.

Read more about the outfit here.

7. “Funny guy” Tommy’s shiny silk and spearpoint collar

Brooklyn, Summer 1963

Of our leading trio, the diminutive Tommy DeVito (Joe Pesci)—based on real-life killer Tommy “Two Gun” DeSimone—makes the most use of the infamous “spearpoint” shirt collars that would become famous for their use in Scorsese’s oeuvre, particularly Goodfellas. Tommy enjoys a night out in the early ’60s while wearing an ice blue shirt rigged with one of these collars, not to mention a shark gray silk suit with a single-breasted, peak-lapel jacket (uniquely detailed in its own right with slim turnback “gauntlet” cuffs) and trousers tailored just right to let Tommy pack his trusty .38 in the waistband without need for belt or braces.

Tommy holds court at Bamboo Lounge, amusing the crowd of mobsters and molls.

Tommy holds court at Bamboo Lounge, amusing the crowd of mobsters and molls.

Read more about the outfit here.

8. The befuddled Bamboo Lounge waiter’s aloha shirt and lei

Brooklyn, Summer 1963

As a sucker for aloha shirts, I’d be remiss if I didn’t celebrate the waiters’ uniforms at the Bamboo Lounge, the tiki-themed bar eventually taken over by Henry’s crew. Hawaiian shirts are often reserved for festive occasions, and they certainly set the right mood as worn by the Bamboo Lounge waitstaff, though this particular waiter (Paul Mougey) must be feeling anything but festive as he warily watches his boss, Sonny Bunz (Tony Darrow), try to talk Tommy into paying his bill.

"What the fuck are you looking at?"

“What the fuck are you looking at?”

Aside from snapshots taken during contextually appropriate tropical vacations, the mobsters themselves seem to stray away from aloha gear.

9. Henry’s red, white, and blue knitwear

Brooklyn, Summer 1963

Henry hits a hat trick! Though hardly seen on screen—and never photographed below mid-chest—this blue two-toned knit short-sleeved sports shirt with its white and red stripes has become one of the most popular garments from the Goodfellas canon, worn open over one of Henry’s usual white ribbed tank top undershirts prominently showing off that gold cross that would pose a bit of a problem for his upcoming romance.

As Henry never paid taxes or registered to vote, his red, white, and blue shirt is arguably the most patriotic aspect of the character. (The movie ignores the real Henry Hill's less-than-celebrated U.S. Army service in the early 1960s.)

As Henry never paid taxes or registered to vote, his red, white, and blue shirt is arguably the most patriotic aspect of the character. (The movie ignores the real Henry Hill’s less-than-celebrated U.S. Army service in the early 1960s.)

10. Henry’s herringbone fleck jacket and cross

Long Island, Summer 1964

Chekhov’s cross comes back when Henry picks up his new girlfriend Karen (Lorraine Bracco) for a date. Knowing that her Jewish parents are only a few steps behind her, Karen quickly buttons up Henry’s “Lido collar” sport shirt as far as it would go, covering up his gold Catholic cross necklace just in time for Henry to confirm her lie that he’s half-Jewish (“just the good half”) to prove his worthiness to take out their daughter. He wears a gray flecked herringbone silk sports coat, the same one he would wear with a dark purple polo shirt during the famous Air France heist.

Karen prepares Henry to meet her parents.

Karen prepares Henry to meet her parents.

Read more about the outfit here.

11. Bruce’s Lacoste tennis outfit

Long Island, Summer 1964

Karen’s worlds collide when she brings Henry to her family’s country club, instructing him when a tip is or isn’t necessary, far from the world of the greenback-powered Copacabana. He meets one of her admirers, the sleazy neighbor Bruce, dressed head to toe in white for tennis with the familiar green Lacoste crocodile embroidered over his left breast… the opposite of Henry, who has dressed for leisure in his beige guayabera.

Henry isn't too enthused about the smug interloper.

Henry isn’t too enthused about the smug interloper.

You could argue that actor Mark Jacobs even shares a passing resemblance to the famous French tennis champion, though Bruce’s future proves to be less promising when his assault on Karen is repaid by getting pistol-whipped into submission by Henry. (For what it’s worth, Bruce also wears Lacoste when getting his deserved retribution from Henry, this time in the form of a pale yellow windbreaker.)

12. Henry’s ass-kicking leather blazer

Queens to Long Island, Summer 1964

Henry’s dressed for a day of mob duties, specifically laying some pressure on wig specialist Morrie Kessler (Chuck Low), when he gets a call that Karen is in trouble. He’s already dressed for what he needs to do after learning that the aforementioned asshat Bruce had tried to force himself on Karen. He looks every bit the tough guy as he steps out of his Chrysler convertible, tucks a blued .38 into the self-belted waistband of his brown trousers, and crosses the jacket wearing a russet leather sport jacket, black contrast-buttoned shirt, and one hell of a grimace.

Henry exacts his violent revenge.

Henry exacts his violent revenge.

Read more about this outfit here.

13. Henry’s closet

Queens, Spring 1970

As Henry’s success in the mob grows, so does his wardrobe. During a montage set to Dean Martin’s “Ain’t That a Kick in the Head”, we span across Karen’s and Henry’s substantial closets in their new home, capturing an array of beautiful silk suits and sport jackets by the dozen, many of which are unfortunately never spied beyond this quick montage.

An enviable closet.

An enviable closet.

One significant item is what appears to be a deep red silk suit, never worn by Liotta on screen but similar to one sported by Steve Martin in My Blue Heaven, the Nora Ephron-penned comedy based on her husband Nicholas Pileggi’s notes from meeting with Henry Hill.

14. Henry’s unorthodox tie knot

Queens, Spring 1970

Henry gets some experimentation with his ties as he tries to dress the part of a wiseguy, getting ready one morning in brown suit and tie. He appears to have foregone a step with the tie, draping the blade over the front of the knot rather than pulling it through as seen with the conventional four-in-hand. Evidently, the unorthodox look appeals to Karen…

Even gangsters need to make time for their morning coffee before work.

Even gangsters need to make time for their morning coffee before work.

15. Henry’s teal green silk suit at The Suite

Queens, June 11, 1970

This fateful night at The Suite Lounge is arguably the turning point both in Henry Hill’s criminal life as well as Goodfellas, providing a tonal shift where we’re transformed from the relative glamour of Mafia life in the ’60s to the violence and drug-fueled danger underscoring the ’70s sequences. During a party for the recently paroled Billy Batts (Frank Vincent), Batts makes reference to Henry and Jimmy as “those Irish hoodlums down there,” and—though Jimmy takes credit as the sole Irishman—Henry’s half-Irish ancestry is suggested by the green sheen of his iridescent silk suit, worn over a black shirt with subtle contrast stitching and white buttons.

Several hours later, with a bloodied Batts in the trunk of Henry’s Pontiac while Jimmy mourns the structural integrity of his shoes, our mobbed-up trio makes a late night stop to Tommy’s family home for a shovel where they’re welcomed inside by Mrs. DeVito (Catherine Scorsese) for an early breakfast. This remarkable scene also introduces the older woman’s penchant for painting, depicting an old man “with a nice head of white hair” sitting on the water with his two dogs… and with a striking resemblance to the doomed Billy Batts.

"Looks like someone we know..." jokes Jimmy of Mrs. DeVito's painting. He may be referring the the older man's physical resemblance to Billy Batts, but the painting subject and Henry appear to share a similar approach to dressing.

“Looks like someone we know…” jokes Jimmy of Mrs. DeVito’s painting. He may be referring the the older man’s physical resemblance to Billy Batts, but the painting subject and Henry appear to share a similar approach to dressing.

Read more about this outfit here. Perhaps underscoring the significance of Henry’s outfit, the next time we would see him wearing a green silk jacket would be during his interview with Karen to enter the Witness Protection Program.

16. Carbone’s pink shirt for a Copa date

New York City, Fall 1970

A composite of Lucchese gangsters Angelo Sepe and Richard Eaton, Frankie Carbone (Frank Sivero) is one of the more frequently featured side characters in Henry Hill’s orbit, typically providing assistance for Tommy’s gruesome work whether he’s at the wheel or the coffee pot. For Friday night at the famous Copacabana, he dresses the most colorfully of the guys with a bright pink shirt under his double-breasted blazer, accented with a pink silk pocket square.

"Saturday night was for wives, but Friday night at the Copa was always for the girlfriends."

“Saturday night was for wives, but Friday night at the Copa was always for the girlfriends.”

17. Henry’s “Lido collar” shirt at Paulie’s

Brooklyn, Fall 1970

When the Hills bring their family to dinner at the Cicero household, Paulie pulls Henry aside for a brief conference about Billy Batts. Henry wears a gray plaid suit detailed with a burgundy double windowpane check, dressing it down for the informal dinner with a white sports shirt with a one-piece “Lido collar” that lays flat atop the jacket lapels. This type of collar dates back to the emergence of leisure wear in the early 20th century, found among the beachside resorts in the French Riviera and here updated to fit the sartorial sensibilities of the disco era when it became common for gents to wear their shirts half-buttoned up the torso to reveal their jewelry… such as Henry’s necklace rigged with Catholic cross and Star of David.

Production photo of Ray Liotta and Paul Sorvino in Goodfellas.

Production photo of Ray Liotta and Paul Sorvino in Goodfellas.

18. Paulie’s monogrammed shirt

Queens, Spring 1972

As a quiet caporegime who values evading detection and legal consequences, Paulie Cicero (Paul Sorvino) follows a generally subdued dress code of solid-colored camp shirts and the occasional sport jacket. However, he takes a break when visiting Henry at his mistress Janice’s apartment, dressed up in a full suit and tie. The rich blue self-striped suit takes styling cues from then-popular country-and-western clothing with its curved seams extending down from the sleevehead roping, and the wide tie with its bubbled circular pattern also connects to ’70s trends.

What I found most interesting about the outfit was the “P.V.” monogram on the left cuff of his ice blue shirt, suggesting that the outfit was likely made when the character was to be named after his real-life counterpart, Paul Vario, before his last name was changed to Cicero for the movie.

Note also that Paulie wears a ruby stone in his pinky ring, likely in tribute to the real Paul Vario's birthstone, born July 9, 1914.

Note also that Paulie wears a ruby stone in his pinky ring, likely in tribute to the real Paul Vario’s birthstone, born July 9, 1914.

19. Jimmy’s safari suit in Florida

Tampa, Spring 1972

Even before Roger Moore’s 007 became famous for his safari suits, Jimmy Conway dresses for an extortion down in Cigar City with a structured taupe safari suit. The unique short-sleeved jacket has the traditional notch lapels of a tailored suit but with shoulder straps (epaulettes) and four pockets, all detailed with button-down flaps, worn over his undershirt and gold pendant.

Even safari wear's detractors would have to admit that a zoo in the early '70s would be an appropriate place to wear it.

Even safari wear’s detractors would have to admit that a zoo in the early ’70s would be an appropriate place to wear it.

Upon their return to New York, the crew is almost immediately arrested for their role in the Tampa beating. A news photo taken during Jimmy’s capture shows him wearing another safari-inspired leisure suit, this one lighter in color with longer sleeves and box-pleated pockets, worn over a dark polo shirt.

20. Henry’s Adidas tracksuit in prison

United States Penitentiary, Lewisburg, Summer 1974

While on “Mafia row” in Lewisburg federal prison, Henry wears a navy polyester “tricot” Adidas tracksuit and white Adidas sneakers that illustrate his athletic youthfulness in relation to the three older gangsters in his shared living space. The jacket and pants are both detailed with Adidas’ signature triple stripes (reportedly purchased from Karhu Sports in the 1950s for two bottles of whiskey) and the familiar trefoil logo embroidered in white over the left breast and left hip. Under the jacket, Henry wears one of the blue mesh tank tops he had also worn during his pre-prison civilian life, most notably when trying to disguise the smell emanating from his trunk after moving Billy Batts’ remains.

Polyester warm-up suits like this dawned outside the gym during the mid-1970s when jogging was the latest fad, setting a new standard for active-wear as acceptable casual attire. Ironically, tracksuits would eventually gain fame as the “Bensonhurst tuxedo” favored by the hardly “active” New York and New Jersey mobsters as prominently featured on The Sopranos.

Adidas and J&B: the preferred brands of imprisoned mafioso.

Adidas and J&B: the preferred brands of imprisoned mafioso.

21. Lois’ “lucky hat”

Queens, Fall 1978

Henry enlists the family babysitter, Lois Byrd (Welker White), to courier drugs back and forth from Pittsburgh, despite her disparaging—and undeserved!—comments about the City of Champions. When we meet Lois during the montage set to The Rolling Stones’ “Monkey Man”, Henry playfully grabs the cotton bucket hat from her head, much to Lois’ annoyance. However, it would be Henry that’s more annoyed a year and a half later when Lois insists on picking up her “lucky hat” before the final leg of his lucrative deal on May 11, 1980.

“A hat?” asks Karen in disbelief.

Henry teases Lois—notably wearing her lucky hat—as she and Karen obsess over the baby she borrowed for the latest trip to Pittsburgh.

Henry teases Lois—notably wearing her lucky hat—as she and Karen obsess over the baby she borrowed for the latest trip to Pittsburgh.

Nearly thirty years later, Welker White would return to the Scorsese canon as Jimmy Hoffa’s wife in The Irishman.

22. Henry’s holiday velvet

Queens, Christmas 1978

Jimmy Conway’s crew is celebrating more than just Christmas and Hanukkah in December 1978, having just pulled off the largest heist in American criminal history to date with more than $5.8 million in cash and jewelry stolen from the Lufthansa cargo terminal at Kennedy airport. Henry joins his comrades-in-arms for yuletide festivities at Robert’s Lounge, dressed for the season in a brick red velvet sports coat with a subdued shirt and tie.

While the rest of the crew quickly gets on Jimmy’s dangerously bad side with their extravagant purchases including a pink Cadillac and fur coat (“they’re wearing it!” complains Morrie), Henry remains in his good graces by limiting his conspicuous expenditures to a white Christmas tree, a gold Rolex, and a bundle of cash gifted to his wife.

Henry keeps the "schmuck on wheels" Morrie at bay from pestering Jimmy at a time when it would be considerably dangerous to do so.

Henry keeps the “schmuck on wheels” Morrie at bay from pestering Jimmy at a time when it would be considerably dangerous to do so.

Read more about this outfit here.

23. Henry’s layered overcoat and leather jacket

Queens, Winter 1979

As bodies pile up in the weeks following the Lufthansa heist, Henry learns some relatively good news when a beaming Jimmy relays that their psychotic pal Tommy is about to get his button as a made man in the Mafia. Henry barely has a chance to peel off the layers he wore against the winter chill, a long camel suede double-breasted topcoat worn over a black leather zip-up blouson and royal blue knit polo shirt.

While not prominently featured, I appreciate this outfit for blending a more traditionally formal outerwear garment with casual underpinnings.

Jimmy shares Tommy's good news with Henry.

Jimmy shares Tommy’s good news with Henry.

24. Tommy gets made

Brooklyn, Spring 1979

When the time actually comes for Tommy to attend his induction ceremony—and we all know how that goes—he dresses in a sharp monochromatic outfit of a silky glen plaid single-button sport jacket, a white tonal-striped shirt with that dramatic spearpoint collar he loves, and a black tie with matching pocket square, the image completed by his usual black cowboy boots that give the 5’4″ Joe Pesci a vertical boost (though not quite enough to make up the difference to match his real-life counterpart, the 6’2″, 225-pound Tommy DeSimone.)

"Don't paint any more religious pictures, please..." Tommy shoots his cuffs before heading off to his fate.

“Don’t paint any more religious pictures, please…” Tommy shoots his cuffs before heading off to his fate.

Read more about this outfit here.

25. Henry’s baggy knitwear for an arrest

Queens, May 11, 1980

Less than two years after Henry was released from his latest prison stretch, he’s darting through the New York City suburbs in his massive Cadillac Coupe de Ville, coked-out with a bag of guns in the trunk and an omnipresent helicopter flying overhead to add to his paranoia. This is the most scattered we’ve ever seen Henry, and his clothing reflects it; gone are the sleek silk suits of the ’60s era or the menacing leather jackets, replaced by an oversized off-white striped knit shirt that envelops him as he jumps from one errand to the next, his frustration and paranoia mounting with each hit of cocaine and spin of the helicopter blade.

In addition to the regular complement of gold jewelry, Henry also sports a pair of black Ray-Ban Balorama sunglasses, the same model as Clint Eastwood famously wore nearly a decade earlier in Dirty Harry.

Karen and Henry keep an eye on their constant overhead surveillance.

Karen and Henry keep an eye on their constant overhead surveillance.

Read more about this outfit here.

26. Karen’s black leather skirt suit

Queens, Summer 1980

“Don’t give me the ‘babe of the woods’ routine,” Karen is later advised by a federal prosecutor as she tries to make the case for her innocence sporting a white polka-dotted housedress. Of course, the agent has heard the wiretaps indicating Karen’s clear involvement in Henry’s drug operation, and her streetwear as seen weeks earlier—a wide-shouldered, shawl-collar jacket and tight skirt in matching black leather—is more consistent with her actual persona as a cocaine-addicted mob wife who hides a gun in her underwear when the police come knocking at the door. Her lilac shirt foreshadows the fashions of the Miami Vice decade to follow.

A leather-clad Karen consults with a suspicious Jimmy after Henry's arrest.

A leather-clad Karen consults with a suspicious Jimmy after Henry’s arrest.

27. Jimmy’s reading glasses

Queens, Summer 1980

In contrast to Karen’s loud leather-and-lilac look when she covertly comes to visit Henry’s erstwhile mentor, Jimmy is subdued as ever, continuing to generally eschew the flashy threads of his criminal colleagues in favor of a tasteful brown windowpane sports coat that has become one of his most frequently worn pieces as he approaches middle age in the mob. He affects a further non-threatening air with a pair of tortoise reading glasses, delicately balanced on his nose in a manner more evocative of a college professor than a Cosa Nostra killer… but Karen’s still wise to feel threatened by the man who’s been slowly exterminating those in her husband’s inner circle.

"You know what kind of questions they been asking him?"

“You know what kind of questions they been asking him?”

Following scenes would find Jimmy in an even wilder set of specs, larger-framed with high-strength lenses that intensify his glare as he meets with Henry in their favorite diner and then stares him down in court.

28. Edward McDonald’s trad office attire

New York City, Summer 1980

After a world enveloped in silk, leather, and gold, we’re sobered by the sight of Assistant U.S. Attorney Edward McDonald (playing himself) in his straitlaced light blue oxford button-down shirt, striped repp tie, and class ring, a Brooks Brothers-style trad that establishes him as an outsider in the lustrous world of Mafia tailoring. The mobsters, for their part, seem to have little regard for the feds’ subdued preferences as Tuddy Cicero taunts his arresting officers with “whoever sold you those suits had a wonderful sense of humor!”

McDonald counsels Henry and Karen on what they can expect during life in witness protection.

McDonald counsels Henry and Karen on what they can expect during life in witness protection.

29. Blue terrycloth robes

Throughout the ’70s, we see blue terry cloth as the preferred robe choice for many of our wiseguys:

  • Imprisoned capo Paulie wears a rich blue terry cloth robe with shawl collar as he slices garlic for dinner
  • During the May 11, 1980, sequence, Jimmy wears a notch-lapel robe in similarly colored blue toweling as he refuses to buy a bag of guns from Henry
  • Henry himself has a pale blue terry bathrobe when living in “egg noodles and ketchup” country after entering the Witness Protection Program
Paulie, Jimmy, and Henry model their respective terry cloth robes over the course of Goodfellas. Who wore it best?

Paulie, Jimmy, and Henry model their respective terry cloth robes over the course of Goodfellas. Who wore it best?

30. Tommy’s final revenge

In homage to the 1903 silent film The Great Train RobberyGoodfellas concludes with Joe Pesci’s psychotic Tommy leveling a revolver and firing six rapid-fire shots at the audience. “Ninety years later, it’s the same story, the gun shots will always be there, he’s always going to look behind his back, he’s gotta have eyes behind his back, because they’re gonna get him someday,” Scorsese explained in an interview with Mark Cousins.

Much as Justus D. Barnes’ threads in The Great Train Robbery established him as the prototypical screen cowboy, Joe Pesci is dressed as the quintessential movie gangster, wearing one of his shiny gray silk suits with the high-contrast combination of an off-white tie knotted under the substantial spearpoint collar of his sinister black shirt. Instead of Barnes’ ten-gallon cowboy hat, Tommy wears a black trilby set back on his head, its brim folded back to give Tommy’s judgmental stare its maximum impact despite less than three seconds of screen time.

♫ Regrets, I've had a few... ♫

♫ Regrets, I’ve had a few… ♫

Aside from the hat, Tommy’s costume appears to be the same outfit he wore when joking around with the guys prior to Morrie’s death scene.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, and read Nicholas Pileggi’s Wiseguy.

You can also revisit all Goodfellas content on BAMF Style here.

Tony Soprano’s Gut-shot George Foreman Shirt in “Members Only”

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James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 6.01: "Members Only")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 6.01: “Members Only”)

Vitals

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, New Jersey mob boss

Newark, New Jersey, Spring 2006

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “Members Only” (Episode 6.01)
Air Date: March 12, 2006
Director: Tim Van Patten
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Fans of The Sopranos are eagerly awaiting the release of David Chase’s prequel, The Many Saints of Newark, directed by Alan Taylor and set during the late 1960s. The movie was originally scheduled for release at the end of this week, but the coronavirus pandemic has delayed the release until March 2021. While it’s too soon for me to take a full look at the style of The Many Saints of Newark, @tonysopranostyle on Instagram has been comprehensively covering many of the outfits seen on set, including those worn by Jon Bernthal as Tony Soprano’s father “Johnny Boy” Soprano and by Michael Gandolfini as a teenage version of his father’s iconic TV character.

In recognition of what would have been James Gandolfini’s 59th birthday last Friday, today’s #MafiaMonday post explores a pivotal scene from the acclaimed series’ sixth season premiere.

The Sopranos had been cleverly marketed for Tony Soprano’s struggle between two families: his actual family and the crime “family” he leads, a struggle that often came to a head when dealing with his uncle, Corrado “Junior” Soprano (Dominic Chianese), a one-time capo in the family whose dementia has reduced him to a paranoid old man, merely a shell of the proud and quick-witted mobster he had once been. After repeated insults and incidents, Tony typically passes the role of Junior’s caretaker onto his sisters and their beleaguered husbands, but a series of events—and Tony’s own family-driven guilt—pulls him from the helm of his new boat and back to that Belleville abode where an “especially agitated” Junior sits on his unfortunate sofa cushions, his upper lip curling into his mouth without his dentures as he babbles about an enduring threat from a long-dead enemy…

What’d He Wear?

Did you know that George Foreman doesn’t just put his name on lean, mean, fat-reducing grilling machines? He also had a line of big-and-tall menswear!

James Gandolfini's screen-worn George Foreman brand polo shirt from "Members Only". (Source: Gotta Have Rock and Roll)

James Gandolfini’s screen-worn George Foreman brand polo shirt from “Members Only”. (Source: Gotta Have Rock and Roll)

While this may not be one of Tony Soprano’s subjectively cooler outfits in the series—not even in the episode, as that honor arguably belongs to his mint-and-black silk Nat Nast bowling shirt—I selected to cover it today for a few reasons:

  • It’s featured during one of the most pivotal moments of The Sopranos
  • James Gandolfini evidently liked it so much that he chose this shirt as one of the many wardrobe pieces he kept after the series wrapped
  • Details are well-documented thanks to auction sites and the extensive research by my friend @tonysopranostyle

My previous Soprano-focused post celebrated the significance of his chevron-patterned polo shirt from the first season. Costume designer Juliet Polcsa had explained to The Independent‘s Christopher Hooton that she worked to avoid dressing James Gandolfini in polo shirts that clung to the actor’s midsection as he gained weight over the series run, but this somewhat oversized shirt from the sixth season premiere was an exception.

This taupe, beige, and black block-striped polo shirt was made by George Foreman as part of the former boxer’s big-and-tall line, sized 3XB according to the 2013 auction listing at Gotta Have Rock and Roll. (Six years later, the shirt was again sold via Heritage Auctions with the “Signature George Foreman” tag having been evidently cut out.) The 2008 Christie’s auction listing of his “bloody” clothes confirm that he wore this over a white ribbed cotton Jockey sleeveless undershirt.

Constructed in a mercerized cotton blend to increase its luster and resistance to washing, this multi-toned shirt is primarily colored in the dark mottled gray found across the back and the elbow-length sleeves, though the front is patterned in stripes of unequal widths that extend, from the right to left, in beige, mottled gray, black, ribbed beige, ribbed gray, and light taupe. The collar matches the mottled gray stripes down the front, piped on the edges in beige and black. The three-button “French placket” at the top matches with the black stripe down the center, though Tony wears the top two buttons undone to reveal a dark gray inner placket.

THE SOPRANOS

@tonysopranostyle was able to find a few listings for identical shirts on Poshmark and graciously sent me close-up photos (click here) that better illustrate what the fabric itself looks like.

Tony keeps his look simple below the waist, wearing black single reverse-pleated slacks from his favorite trouser brand, Zanella, likely with a black leather belt that coordinates with his black derby shoes.

Michael Scott may have thought the worst George Foreman-associated kitchen injury would be burning his foot on a lean mean fat grilling machine, but he never met a .38-packing Uncle Junior.

Michael Scott may have thought the worst George Foreman-associated kitchen injury would be burning his foot on a lean mean fat grilling machine, but he never met a .38-packing Uncle Junior.

While at the helm of his fishing yacht, Tony wears a black nylon windbreaker personalized with the name of the craft, “Stugots II”, embroidered over the left breast in white thread. The blouson-style jacket has a black-finished front zipper, hand pockets, and elasticized cuffs… and no, despite the name of the episode, it is arguably not a Members Only jacket.

If you don't know what "stugots" means, just be advised that it wouldn't be something you want to utter around your Italian grandmother.

If you don’t know what “stugots” means, just be advised that it wouldn’t be something you want to utter around your Italian grandmother.

Even for this more casual occasion, Tony wears his everyday gold jewelry, including the St. Jerome pendant on a thin necklace that falls out from his shirt as he crawls across Uncle Junior’s floor. On his right hand, Tony wears his usual gold pinky ring with its diamond-and-ruby bypass setting, and he dresses his right wrist in a gold bracelet that @tonysopranostyle describes as resembling “a Cuban curbed link chain and an Italian Figaro link chain with a twist.”

Tony takes stock of his bloody injury.

Tony takes stock of his bloody injury.

In addition to the plain gold wedding ring he’s again wearing on his left hand after reconciling with Carmela the previous season, Tony wears his usual Rolex Day-Date “President”, identified as a ref. 18238 in 18-karat yellow gold. The luxury chronometer has a champagne-tinted gold dial with the day of the week across the top and a date window at 3:00, fitted to the unique semi-circular three-piece “President” or “Presidential” link bracelet that was introduced alongside Rolex’s new Day-Date model in 1956. Tony wore this Rolex President in nearly every episode from the second installment, “46 Long”, through the finale.

Luckily, he doesn't get any blood on the Rolex.

Luckily, he doesn’t get any blood on the Rolex.

Go Big or Go Home

A little pasta, a little Artie Shaw… Tony is really making the most of his night babysitting a senile Junior until, you know, he isn’t.

A talented clarinetist, Shaw was only 28 years old when he became a sensation with his band’s rendition of the Cole Porter-penned “Begin the Beguine”. The following year, in 1939, Shaw’s band recorded the new standard “Comes Love” with the 22-year-old Helen Forrest providing vocals.

 

“Who’s down there?” a terrified Junior shouts when Tony calls upstairs that dinner will be ready in ten minutes.

“Artie Shaw! Ten minutes,” Tony sarcastically responds.

“Don’t go anywhere…” utters Junior. Tony—needing to be needed—interprets this response as fear and reminds Junior that he won’t be leaving…

The Gun

… just in time for the muttering old man to dig out his blued steel .38 and, in a fit of dementia, pop off a shot into his nephew’s belly.

"Cazzata, Malanga!"

Cazzata, Malanga!”

The weapon that sets the final season of The Sopranos into motion is a Rossi Model 68, confirmed when the live-firing revolver was auctioned by Live Auctioneers in May 2009. (The Golden Closet also includes a non-firing Smith & Wesson Model 36 replica that was used as an on-screen stand-in.)

Amadeo Rossi SA was founded in the Brazilian industrial city of São Leopoldo in 1889, eventually growing to worldwide exportation. In 1978, the Rossi Model 68 was introduced as an evolution of the brand’s earlier Model 27 Pioneer revolver. Cosmetically and operationally similar to the popular Smith & Wesson “Chiefs Special”, the compact Model 68 carries five rounds of .38 Special in its cylinder and was produced by Rossi in Brazil using Smith & Wesson tooling and machinery under license.

How to Get the Look

Same outfit: two ways to wear it. James Gandolfini's screen-worn clothes from The Sopranos photos sourced from Live Auctioneers (left) and Christie's (right).

Same outfit: two ways to wear it. James Gandolfini’s screen-worn clothes from The Sopranos photos sourced from Live Auctioneers (left) and Christie’s (right).

Though perhaps not one of Tony Soprano’s most fashionable outfits, the George Foreman-branded polo shirt and black Zanella trousers he wears when uncle-sitting in “Members Only” illustrate how simple it can be to affect the look of television’s most famous mob boss… though the gold jewelry and Rolex arguably take his look to the next level of luxury.

  • Taupe, beige, gray, and black vertical block-striped cotton blend short-sleeved polo shirt with short 3-button top
  • Black single reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, extended button-closure waist tab, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt
  • Black leather derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Rolex Day-Date “President” 18238 self-winding chronometer watch in 18-karat yellow gold with champagne-colored dial and Presidential link bracelet
  • Gold curb-chain link bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with bypassing ruby and diamond stones
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series. Particularly for fans of Gandolfini’s wardrobe and accessories, I suggest you follow my friend @tonysopranostyle on Instagram!

You can also browse the original auction listings below:

The Quote

Fuck it… you wanna get something done, you gotta do it yourself.

Leonardo DiCaprio’s Black Tie in The Great Gatsby

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Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (2013)

Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (2013)

Vitals

Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby, eagerly romantic millionaire and bootlegger

Long Island, New York, Summer 1922

Film: The Great Gatsby
Release Date: May 10, 2013
Director: Baz Luhrmann
Costume Designer: Catherine Martin

Background

On the eve of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s birthday, let’s look at the most recent major adaptation of his most famous work, The Great Gatsby. Fitz’s 1925 novel had been adapted for the big screen at least four times before Baz Luhrmann directed his colorful spectacle during the past decade.

Nine months ago, Instagram was ablaze with my friends posting photos from New Year’s Eve parties, toasting to the dawn of the new “roaring ’20s”… unaware that this also meant the spread of a global pandemic not unlike the Spanish flu that may have killed up to 50 million between 1918 and 1920, infecting at least ten times that number. While it’s too soon to definitively compare the new coronavirus with that unusually deadly flu outbreak, the months under quarantine suggested just why those denizens of what Fitzgerald dubbed the “Jazz Age” were prone to such famous parties: reveling in the relief that it was once again safe to congregate and celebrate.

“Partying like Gatsby” has become modern shorthand for these bacchanalia, though the pendant in me is compelled to comment that all those Forever 21-esque tees should really be encouraging one to party like Gatsby’s guests as the reclusive host explains to his neighbor that he doesn’t care much for parties himself, only hosting such lavish events at his West Egg mansion in the hopes of attracting the interest of his lost love.

Thanks to decades of high school curricula, most of us are already well aware of the plot, themes, and characters of The Great Gatsby as well as the symbolism behind his yellow car, et cetera, et cetera… and this familiarity as well as the already existing adaptations provided Luhrmann with a relatively free reign to tell Trimalchio’s tale in his own style, retaining the central characters, narrative, and setting, but seeking relevance for this modern audience with a contemporary soundtrack infused with popular artists like Beyoncé, Fergie, Jack White, Jay Z, and Lana Del Rey rather than exclusively featuring the more historically correct strains of “Ain’t We Got Fun?”, “The Sheik of Araby”, and “Who?” that scored Jack Clayton’s 1974 adaptation. (Though, to the artist’s credit, will.i.am’s “Bang Bang” during the first party does sample a version of the ’20s dance hit “Charleston” as featured during Gatsby’s first party.)

Wisely retained by Luhrmann from Fitzgerald’s novel is the announced “jazz history of the world” against a backdrop of fireworks at Gatsby’s first party, allowing Gershwin’s famous “Rhapsody in Blue” to hit its most dramatic moments while Leonardo DiCaprio’s Gatsby is formally introduced to both Nick Carraway (Tobey Maguire) and the audience as the hero of our story.

THE GREAT GATSBY

What’d He Wear?

Proponents of the classic men’s tuxedo have the 1920s to thank for its popularity and enduring elements. Perhaps a decade before The Great Gatsby was set, the newly emerging dinner jacket may have still been too informal for an evening party on Long Island, even among the young and fashionable set. After decades in slow development and adoption, the black tie dress code had emerged to some degree during the Edwardian era, but the loosening formalities that followed the first world war found the more comfortable dinner jackets eclipsing full white tie and tails as the expected evening wear for most gatherings by the time the next world war started.

Rudolph Valentino, one of the most fashionable matinee idols of the era, wears a peak-lapel dinner jacket, wing collar, and white pocket square in the silent romantic drama Beyond the Rocks, released in May 1922, just months before the setting of The Great Gatsby.

Rudolph Valentino, one of the most fashionable matinee idols of the era, wears a peak-lapel dinner jacket, wing collar, low-slung white waistcoat, and white pocket square in the silent romantic drama Beyond the Rocks, released in May 1922, just months before the setting of The Great Gatsby.

Nowhere was this more true than in the United States, already a less formal culture than much of Europe though still primarily taking its lead from English fashions. The “dinner jacket” first appeared in English print in 1887, and the Americans weren’t long to embrace the dressed-down dinner attire, providing the “tuxedo” nomenclature the following year in reference to Tuxedo Park, an elite enclave in New York state’s Hudson Valley where the dinner jacket became a familiar sight. (The term “black tie” in this context would not appear in print until at least 1926, as determined by Gentleman’s Gazette.)

While the ubiquity of dinner jackets at Jazz Age jamborees is accurately captured in Luhrmann’s Gatsby adaptation, I suggest that we’re seeing a degree of historic license exercised by many of the gents in Gatsby’s coterie, most notably in the case of the enigmatic host himself.

As stated earlier, the early ’20s was still a transitional period for men’s evening attire with the black tie dress code taking its cues from the more formal white tie dress code as opposed to the business-oriented lounge suit. This meant essentially replacing the tailcoat and white tie with a shorter single-button dinner jacket and black bow tie but generally retaining the wing collar, low-cut waistcoat (in white or black), and high-waisted trousers.

So why the inaccuracies in a film based on possibly the most famous fiction about the roaring ’20s? One could argue that Luhrmann and company were presenting a modern “fantasy” of the 1920s, designed to specifically appeal to audiences of 2013 by infusing the music, clothing, and dialogue with enough of a contemporary touch that audiences can balance relating and retreating into the escapism of Jazz Age glamour.

For more expert commentary that delves into the specific inconsistencies between Gatsby’s wardrobe and historical record, I invite you to read this post from the Black Tie Blog published shortly after the film’s release in 2013. You can also explore this decade-by-decade breakdown of acceptable evening dress codes at Gentleman’s Gazette.

The First Dinner Suit

Both dinner jackets that Leonardo DiCaprio prominently wears in The Great Gatsby are similarly cut and styled, shaped with front darts for a close fit suggested to be more contemporary to the film’s production than its 1920s setting. The narrow shoulders are accented with roped sleeveheads.

These single-breasted jackets have a full three-button front, consistent with the jackets of business suits and lounge suits rather than traditional evening wear, with all three buttons covered with black silk to match the satin facings on the broad peak lapels. The straight hip pockets are flapped—another detail more consistent with informal lounge suits—and both jackets have a center-slanting welted breast pocket, which Gatsby dresses with a silk pocket square to coordinate with his neckwear.

Gatsby makes a rare appearance at one of his own parties, watching his new neighbor leave among the rest of the colorful carousers.

Gatsby makes a rare appearance at one of his own parties, watching his new neighbor leave among the rest of the colorful carousers.

DiCaprio’s first on-screen dinner jacket is black with a subtle sheen suggesting silk or mohair, a theory supported by the wool and mohair blend construction of the dinner jacket included in Brooks Brothers’ “The Great Gatsby Collection”, released to coincide with the movie in 2013. The ends of each sleeve, adorned with four silk-covered buttons, are further detailed with silk “gauntlet” cuffs. This neo-Edwardian detail has been sporadically revived throughout the 20th century, particularly in the early ’60s as seen on some of Sean Connery’s dinner jackets as James Bond or even Joe Pesci’s suits in Goodfellas.

Note Gatsby's silk-faced gauntlet cuffs.

Note Gatsby’s silk-faced gauntlet cuffs.

The wing collar was still the most accepted style for shirts to be worn with dinner jackets in the early 1920s, when turndown collars with black tie were still primarily the dressed-down domain of jazz bands as illustrated by the publicity photos of the Original Dixieland Jazz Band from the period. Turndown collars would gain more general acceptance with dinner suits during the following decade.

Gatsby’s white formal shirt is rigged with a point collar, gently rounded on the points. The razor-thin pleated front has a unique “French placket”, distinctive as it only includes stitching along the edge of the shirt and not on the other side to the left of the buttonholes, fastened with black-filled studs that are threaded to the shirt like buttons rather than removable studs but often covered by the too-high rise of Gatsby’s waistcoat. The silver-toned metal framework of these buttons coordinate with the round etched silver cuff links worn in Gatsby’s double (French) cuffs, which are textured with a subtle rib.

One of the most unique aspects of an already unorthodox black tie kit is the tie itself, a black thistle-shaped bow tie with white piping along the edges. This neckwear pushes the outfit into the more creative realm of evening-wear, appropriate for a man who likes to draw attention to himself via lavish parties, a gleaming yellow touring car, and eye-catching threads like that famous pink suit.

"His smile was one of those rare smiles that you may come across four or five times in life. It seemed to understand you and believe in you, just as you would like to be understood and believed in."

“His smile was one of those rare smiles that you may come across four or five times in life. It seemed to understand you and believe in you, just as you would like to be understood and believed in.”

Leonardo DiCaprio in a promotional portrait for The Great Gatsby.

Leonardo DiCaprio in a promotional portrait for The Great Gatsby.

While much of Gatsby’s divergences from then-accepted evening-wear standards can be excused as “creative black tie” choices, I would argue—in agreement with the knowledgable author of this Black Tie Blog post—that his choice of a high-fastening waistcoat transcends into the world of anachronism, particularly as we see this style practiced by other characters though Tobey Maguire’s Nick likely took his sartorial inspiration from Gatsby himself.

To the best of my knowledge, high-fastening waistcoats as seen with business or lounge suits were generally not worn with black tie until a half-century later. Considering the disco era’s embrace of powder blue tuxedoes, frilly shirts, and jumbo-sized bow ties, the higher-fastening fancy waistcoats may be the least egregious of the bunch, but they also influenced generations of formal-wear to follow as many modern rental houses and prom photos suggest chest-high vests in an array of colors, fabrics, and patterns to be de rigeur for evening dress. (Indeed, even yours truly wore a burnt orange waistcoat as part of my rented prom kit back in 2007!) Despite this trend, the traditional waist coverings for gents in black tie remains either a cummerbund or a low-fastening waistcoat, typically black though white adds a vintage-inspired touch.

During his first on-screen party, Gatsby wears an all-black silk waistcoat with vertical satin stripes. The single-breasted waistcoat has five black buttons, a notched bottom, and four pockets. His choice is made additionally surprising as the high-fastening, full-backed waistcoat would add another layer that could get warm during his summer garden party.

The Last Dinner Suit

By late summer, Gatsby and Daisy Buchanan (Carey Mulligan) are deep into their rekindled romance, five years after they had last met before he went to war and returned to make a fortune. Complicating their “happily ever after” is Daisy’s husband Tom (Joel Edgerton), a gruff hypocrite whom Gatsby can’t help but to irk with snide remarks and innuendo when the Buchanans join Nick at what would be Gatsby’s last soiree of the summer.

In the 1974 version of Fitzgerald’s novel, Robert Redford’s Gatsby dressed for the occasion in white tie and tails, but DiCaprio’s Gatsby stays true to his preference for three-piece black tie kits. His dinner suit is nearly identical to the black suit worn for the previous party, albeit constructed from a rich midnight blue silk-blended suiting with all the facings—jacket lapels, buttons, pocket flaps, and trouser striping—covered in a black silk.

On this jacket, the sleevehead roping is less defined with a softer structure almost evocative of the famous Neapolitan “con rollino” shoulder. The most notable difference is the lack of gauntlet cuffs; instead, the sleeves of Gatsby’s dinner jacket are finished with four silk-covered buttons.

Gatsby guides his guests Daisy, Nick, and Tom "the Polo Player" Buchanan through what would be his final party of the summer.

Gatsby guides his guests Daisy, Nick, and Tom “the Polo Player” Buchanan through what would be his final party of the summer.

Gatsby wears the more traditional neckwear that gives the black tie kit its designation, a plain black satin silk bow tie in a medium butterfly (or “thistle”) shape. Barely contrasting against the dark dinner jacket is his black silk pocket square, worn “puffed” in his welted breast pocket.

"Can't repeat the past..? Why, of course you can!"

“Can’t repeat the past..? Why, of course you can!”

Gatsby matches his black silk waistcoat to his bow tie as opposed to the midnight blue dinner suit. Similarly cut and styled with its high, five-button front and four pockets, the waistcoat’s tonal pattern consists more of boxes than the stripes of the earlier waistcoat. The fit can be adjusted around the waist with a half-belt in the back.

The aftermath of another one Gatsby's summer shindigs.

The aftermath of another one Gatsby’s summer shindigs.

Gatsby’s dark formal trousers match the fabrics of his dinner suits, detailed with the standard black satin stripe down the side of each leg. The trousers seem to have flat fronts or at least lack dramatic pleats, and the bottoms are appropriately finished with plain hems that break over his black patent leather cap-toe oxfords.

Gatsby and Daisy break away from his party for an intimate moment in the woods.

Gatsby and Daisy break away from his party for an intimate moment in the woods.

Seven years after the film’s release, there’s still no definite confirmation on the wristwatch DiCaprio wears as Gatsby. While it may have been inspired by the elegant tank watches popularized through mid-century by Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Longines, the piece has been theorized to be a piece custom-made for the production, possibly through the film’s well-publicized partnership with Tiffany & Co.

Constructed from a silver-toned metal like stainless steel, white gold, or platinum, the rectangular-cased watch has a white rectangular dial with black hands and a unique hour-marking system that spells out “12” and “6” as well as elongated numerals for the corner hours (1, 5, 7, and 11), while the hours in between are all marked with a simple, non-numeric dash.

The Deco-style dial is consistent with the film’s setting, but the metal bracelet could be argued as the anachronism here. As wristwatches grew increasingly common in the years following World War I, most were still strapped to men’s wrists on leather bands, reserving daintier metal bracelets for women’s timepieces. Gatsby may have indeed had access to this more masculine “rice grain”-style bracelet in 1922, but I attribute the choice to wear it here as another element of reinterpreting the roaring ’20s for modern audiences as a man in his position would likely not have worn a metal-banded wristwatch until at least 20 years later (and certainly not with a tuxedo for another 20 years after that when James Bond popularized sport watches with evening-wear.)

Gatsby's watch flashes from under his shirt cuff as he cherishes every minute spent with his once-lost love.

Gatsby’s watch flashes from under his shirt cuff as he cherishes every minute spent with his once-lost love.

Gatsby frequently fiddles with a large pinky ring that gets plenty of attention on screen. Likely made of sterling silver, the chunky ring has a large rectangular surface with an etched “sunburst”.

Having met Gatsby's ring during his introduction earlier, we get a sense that he's approaching Nick when we see his ring before the rest of him at the first party. (Also note the subdued ribbing on his shirt cuff.)

Having met Gatsby’s ring during his introduction earlier, we get a sense that he’s approaching Nick when we see his ring before the rest of him at the first party. (Also note the subdued ribbing on his shirt cuff.)

How to Get the Look

Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (2013)

Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (2013)

Befitting his persona as a somewhat eccentric and offbeat millionaire, Leonardo DiCaprio’s Gatsby infuses forward-thinking fashions and unorthodox details into the three-piece dinner suits he wears for his famous parties, anonymously holding court in what more resembles “upgraded” evening-wear than the era’s traditionally accepted black tie dress.

  • Black or midnight blue silk-blend single-breasted 3-button dinner jacket with satin-faced peak lapels, slanted welt breast pocket, straight hip pockets with silk-faced flaps, turnback “gauntlet” cuffs with 4 covered buttons, and double vents
  • Black tonal-patterned silk single-breasted 5-button waistcoat with four welted pockets and notched bottom
  • Black or midnight blue silk-blend flat front formal trousers with black satin side striping, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White cotton formal shirt with point collar, edge-stitched “French placket”, thin-pleated front, and double/French cuffs
    • Round silver etched cuff links
  • Black silk butterfly-shaped bow tie with white-piped edges
  • Cream silk pocket square
  • Black patent leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Black dress socks
  • Silver pinky ring with dark “starbust” face
  • Stainless wristwatch with a rectangular white face and stainless rice-grain bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and F. Scott Fitzgerald’s original novel, even if you already did read it in high school! I also enjoyed the graphic novel adaptation by Fred Fordham with illustrations by Aya Morton, released this summer.

Love the songs from soundtrack but still want an authentic Jazz Agee sound for your next Gatsby-inspired shindig? I recommend The Jazz Recordings as recorded by The Bryan Ferry Orchestra… yes, that Bryan Ferry! This “selection of yellow cocktail music” per the album subtitle includes recognizable queues like “Young and Beautiful”, “Crazy in Love”, and “Bang Bang”, but arranged and recorded in the style of 1920s hot jazz bands.

The Quote

I knew it was a great mistake for a man like me to fall in love.

Black Rain: Michael Douglas’ Leather Jacket in Japan

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Michael Douglas as Nick Conklin in Black Rain (1988)

Michael Douglas as Nick Conklin in Black Rain (1988)

Vitals

Michael Douglas as Nick Conklin, loose cannon NYPD detective

Osaka, Japan, Winter 1988

Film: Black Rain
Release Date: September 22, 1989
Director: Ridley Scott
Costume Designer: Ellen Mirojnick

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy birthday, Michael Douglas! To commemorate the 76th birthday of this acclaimed actor and producer, I’m addressing a request I received from BAMF Style reader Ryan to take a look at Douglas’ wardrobe in Black Rain as loose cannon cop Nick Conklin.

Already distrusted by his own department, Nick finds himself facing more heat than ever when a yakuza killer he collared in New York escapes after Nick escorts him back to Japan. Determined to bring the gangster to justice and prove his own honesty, Nick and his more diplomatic partner Charlie Vincent (Andy Garcia) remain in Osaka as unarmed “observers” under the supervision of patient investigator Masahiro Matsumoto (Ken Takakura).

BLACK RAIN

What’d He Wear?

Nick Conklin is the kind of badass with a leather jacket for every occasion: a motorcycle jacket for spending Sundays on his Harley racing biker gangs along the New York waterfront and an oversized coat for riding along with Japanese law enforcement.

Constructed of black leather, this latter jacket is somewhat oversized, evident by the tops of each sleeve falling off of Michael Douglas’ shoulders. Styled and sized more like a car coat than a more fitted leather jacket, this casual coat has a convertible shawl collar that he wears flat in the front but turned up in the back, though it has front snaps should he choose to wear it closed over his neck. The fly front closes up a brass zipper that begins a few inches above the thigh-length hem, where there is an additional snap for secure closure.

BLACK RAIN

The sleeves appear to be in the “saddle shoulder” style, an extended variant of the raglan sleeve with wider yokes that extend across the shoulders in the front and back, where the yoke pieces are stitched together at a short center back seam that extends a few inches from the nape of the neck to just above Douglas’ shoulder blades.

Nick’s jacket has three outer pockets; the large, jetted-opening breast pocket has a zipper that closes from right to left, and there are large set-in pockets on each hip below the waistband with slanted welt openings. The back is detailed with a vertical seam down the center and a horizontal seam around the waist, meeting at the intersection with a square reinforced patch with “X” top stitching. The distressed screen-worn jacket can be seen at YourProps.

Nick's leather jacket was built for action.

Nick’s leather jacket was built for action.

This leather jacket makes its debut appearance layered over a burgundy work shirt and light heathered gray cotton crew-neck T-shirt. The long-sleeved button-up work shirt has a short point collar, front placket, and two box-pleated chest pockets that each close with a single-button flap. The shirt is detailed with matching burgundy concave plastic buttons.

BLACK RAIN

Nick is sent back stateside, but he sneaks off of his Northwest flight to meet crime boss (Tomisaburo Wakayama) and engage in a final climactic confrontation with the murderer Koji Sato (Yūsaku Matsuda). “You know me, I don’t go quietly, Mats,” he reminds Matsumoto.

For these scenes, Nick wears a gray marled knit wool turtleneck, the same as he had worn under his motorcycle jacket during the opening scene. Worn over a navy blue undershirt, the sweater has a wide-ribbed body that is further textured with an interlocking large-scaled trellis pattern over the torso.

BLACK RAIN

Aside from the epilogue that calls for a dark suit, Nick seems to exclusively wear black denim Levi’s jeans, with and without a belt. (With the burgundy shirt, he wears a black leather belt with single-prong buckle; with the turtleneck, no belt.)

Nick's brawl with Sato muddies his outfit, but the distinctive brown leather patch on the belt line of his black Levi's can still be distinguished.

Nick’s brawl with Sato muddies his outfit, but the distinctive brown leather patch on the belt line of his black Levi’s can still be distinguished.

Nick wears black leather Chelsea boots with black elastic side gussets. These boots take quite a beating over the course of Black Rain.

After tossing Nick an empty shotgun, Sugai's men scatter the shells he needs at the ground next to his Chelsea boots.

After tossing Nick an empty shotgun, Sugai’s men scatter the shells he needs at the ground next to his Chelsea boots.

To increase his cool factor, Nick frequently wears a pair of black-framed aviator-style sunglasses with dark brown lenses, similar to the style Michael Douglas would again wear as disturbed detective Nick Curran in Basic Instinct.

BLACK RAIN

These days, the product placement gods may have found an opportunity to appoint this macho cop with an oversized chronograph befitting his larger-than-life nature. Instead, Nick Conklin’s timepiece is a study in subtlety, a plain stainless steel wristwatch with a round white dial on an expanding bracelet.

Scotch, cigarettes, and solitaire for the long plane ride to Japan.

Scotch, cigarettes, and solitaire for the long plane ride to Japan.

The Gun

Having had both of his Colt revolvers impounded and even disarmed of his partner Charlie’s Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum, Nick is at the mercy of Sugai’s men to arm him for his final confrontation with Sato. He is tossed an empty pump-action shotgun—identified by IMFDB users as a Stevens Model 67—followed by a half-dozen 12-gauge shells. The weapon has been modified for combat with a pistol grip in lieu of a removed stock and the barrel sawed down to the same length as the magazine tube.

Nick heads into battle with his pistol-gripped pump shotgun.

Nick heads into battle with his pistol-gripped pump shotgun.

J. Stevens & Co. had been established by Joshua Stevens in Massachusetts during the Civil War, manufacturing rifles, shotguns, and target pistols for a half-century until it was acquired first by New England Westinghouse and then Savage Arms in the spring of 1920. For the next forty years, Savage would continue to manufacture firearms at the company’s original Chicopee Falls factory until finally shuttering operations. Savage continued to offer firearms under the Stevens brand, including the budget-oriented Model 67 pump-action shotgun that would be produced until 1989.

How to Get the Look

Michael Douglas and director Ridley Scott on location filming Black Rain (1988)

Michael Douglas and director Ridley Scott on location filming Black Rain (1988)

Michael Douglas’ go-to costume collaborator, Ellen Mirojnick, designed his distinctive look for Black Rain, anchored around leather jackets, boots, and dark jeans like classic rebels such as Marlon Brando in The Wild One, differentiating Detective Nick Conklin from the despised “suits” in his orbit.

  • Black leather saddle-shoulder car coat with convertible snap-closed shawl collar, zip-up fly front, zip-closed horizontal breast pocket, slanted-opening side pockets, and ventless back
  • Burgundy cotton long-sleeved work shirt with short point collar, front placket, and two flapped box-pleat pockets
  • Light heathered gray cotton crew-neck short-sleeve T-shirt
  • Gray marled ribbed-knit wool turtleneck sweater
  • Black denim Levi’s jeans
  • Black leather Chelsea boots
  • Black-framed aviator sunglasses
  • Steel wristwatch with round white dial on expanding bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, which was originally meant to be a sequel to Beverly Hills Cop.

The Quote

If you pull it, you better use it.

La Dolce Vita: Mastroianni’s Black Suit

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Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita (1960)

Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita (1960)

Vitals

Marcello Mastroianni as Marcello Rubini, playboy gossip journalist

Rome, Spring 1959

Film: La Dolce Vita
Release Date:
February 5, 1960
Director: Federico Fellini
Costume Designer: Piero Gherardi
Tailor: Brioni

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

The two headlining stars of Fellini’s classic La Dolce Vita would have celebrated their birthdays this week—Marcello Mastroianni tomorrow (September 28, 1924) and Anita Ekberg the following day (September 29, 1931)—and watching these two Libras glide together through the Trevi Fountain at daybreak has become one of the most enduring images of Italian cinema.

“If, as some critics claim, La Dolce Vita is about the death of hope, bone-deep cynicism never looked so damned seductive,” wrote Gail Kinn and Jim Piazza in Four-Star Movies: The 101 Greatest Films of All Time, the book whose lavish photographs and descriptions first introduced me to Fellini’s masterpiece.

Though named in an ode to “the sweet life”, a more apt title might have translated to “Ennui, Italian style” as we follow Mastroianni’s disenchanted journalist Marcello Rubini through a series of surreal, sexy, and ultimately sad episodes that reflect comedy, drama, and romance, perhaps most famously in the segment where Marcello escorts the Swedish bombshell Sylvia (Ekberg) through an increasingly lonely night in Rome that culminates in the centuries-old Fontana di Trevi.

Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita (1960)

Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita (1960)

Filmed sometime between January and March of 1959 (sources vary), this iconic scene was far from the free-spirited romp depicted on screen. Instead, Mastroianni recalled that his wetsuit still wasn’t adequate protection from the chilly fountain water, so he fortified himself with enough vodka that he was completely smashed by the time he finally stepped into the fountain to take the voluptuous actress into his arms.

What’d He Wear?

Knowing that I wanted to pay tribute to the stylish Marcello Mastroianni for his birth month, I held an Instagram poll asking my readers to vote between his threads in or La Dolce Vita, both directed by Fellini and winners of the Academy Award for Best Costume Design (Black and White) in their respective years. Needless to say (if you’ve already read this far), most of you voted to see La Dolce Vita, and thus we’ll proceed with one of Marcello’s most celebrated and frequently worn outfits.

Marcello Mastroianni in color, sporting the black suit, tie, and monk shoes that may have been the same costume from La Dolce Vita.

Marcello Mastroianni in color, sporting the black suit, tie, and monk shoes that may have been the same costume from La Dolce Vita.

Otello Martelli’s iconic black and white cinematography neatly coordinates with our protagonist’s wardrobe, which consists almost solely of sleek suits, shirts, and cravats in high-contrasting black and white, whether it’s his debonair dinner suit, his iconoclastic black suit worn at any time of day, or when he inverts his own formula by movie’s end with a white linen suit over a black polo shirt and scarf.

But first… let’s go back to that black lounge suit. Most traditionally minded fashion experts would advise against investing in a black suit, at least not before the basics are introduced, arguing that the only true daytime use for a black suit is a funeral (where somber tones like charcoal gray are already effective) and that most evening occasions calling for black are better served by a tuxedo anyway. Of course, our poet laureate of mid-century Roman nightlife is hardly a traditionalist!

Marcello Rubini’s job is to cover the hottest events in Roman society, needing to be ready at a moment’s notice to follow the day—or night—wherever it may take him, using riding along next to a beautiful blonde until ending up in a mysterious castle or a legendary fountain. It would be presumptuous and impractical for Marcello to dress in a dinner suit 24/7 and instead adopts a more convertible style of “business-wear” that befits the fluid hours and situations where his occupation takes him.

You could argue that Marcello offsets the funereal connotations of a black suit by opting for one in a more fashionable, nontraditional suiting. The cloth shines by day or night, suggesting the likelihood of silk or at least a silk-and-wool blend. As suggested by Eugenia Paulicelli, Grailed, NW Film Center, and The Oregonian, Mastroianni’s suit was almost certainly tailored by Brioni, the legendary and innovative tailoring house that has operated out of the same boutique at Via Barberini 79 in Rome since its inception in 1945.

The single-breasted suit jacket has wide, soft shoulders with medium padding and roped at the sleeveheads with a touch of the con rollino shoulder bump associated with traditional Neapolitan tailoring, building up the shoulders and chest and fitting closer around the mid-section for a sleek, dashing silhouette. The notch lapels gently roll over the top of the three-button front for what has been described as a “3/2.5-roll” stance, and the sleeves are finished with three buttons on each cuff.

The welted breast pocket has a slight curve to it, though it isn’t the most dramatic example of the rounded Italian “barchetta”-style pocket, so named for its resemblance to a small boat. The long double vents and the jetted hip pockets sans pocket flaps are typical of Italian suits from the era.

Wheeling and dealing.

Wheeling and dealing.

Marcello keeps the jacket fastened and in place throughout his exploits, revealing no more of the trousers than their turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms, though they’re likely styled with pleats and worn with a belt like his other suit trousers.

For Marcello’s evening out with Sylvia, he wears a hairline-striped white shirt detailed with point collar and double (French) cuffs that he dresses with his usual obscenely massive cuff links, in this case a set of large metal discs etched in the centers and so large that they not only collide with the ends of his jacket sleeves but occasionally envelop them.

At the Baths of Caracalla earlier that evening, Marcello shares a dance with Sylvia that wouldn't be their last embrace of the night.

At the Baths of Caracalla earlier that evening, Marcello shares a dance with Sylvia that wouldn’t be their last embrace of the night.

Marcello wears his usual black knitted silk tie, finished with a flat bottom rather than a pointed blade. He knots the tie with a Windsor knot that looks more subdued due to its coverage by the shirt’s substantial point collar and the tie’s light structure preventing augmentation at the neck. The texture dresses the tie down to the appropriate level for a man who wears his suit and tie not to conform to any office dress code but rather to fit it among the beau monde and bellwethers of Roman nightlife.

Favored by Ian Fleming’s literary James Bond, the versatile black knitted silk tie remains a timeless menswear staple and can be found in a range of prices from purveyors like Drake’s and The Tie Bar.

LA DOLCE VITA

Marcello wears single-strap monk shoes, again a fine selection for a man whose attire bridges between casual and conventional dress as monks, while technically loafers, are dressier than most slip-ons without being as formal as classic oxfords. These were a favorite of Marcello Mastroianni both on- and off-screen during this time, as seen in his films like Ieri, oggi, domani. Worn with black socks (what else?), Marcello’s black calf cap-toe monks each have a single strap that closes through a silver-toned single-prong on the outside of each instep.

Both actor and character would likely approve of these cap-toe monks in black leather from Leonardo Shoes of Florence, though you can also test your toes with these wares from Allen Edmonds, Clarks, Cole Haan, La Milano, and Stacy Adams. Just be sure to follow Marcello’s example and slip them off before stepping into a body of water, be it the Tyrrhenian Sea or the Trevi Fountain.

After getting a glass of milk for their new feline companion, Marcello returns to Sylvia only to find that she's gliding through the ice-cold fontana di Trevi.

After getting a glass of milk for their new feline companion, Marcello returns to Sylvia only to find that she’s gliding through the ice-cold Fontana di Trevi.

Marcello’s sizable cuff links steal any attention his wrists may receive, so his watch slips into anonymity under his left shirt cuff, barely to be glimpsed to show any more detail than what appears to be a round, light-colored dial.

LA DOLCE VITA

This suit and tie becomes something as a uniform for Marcello, whether he’s covering a sham sighting of the Madonna by local children by day or impulsively following Nico (playing herself) to a mysterious castle party by night. For both of these occasions, he has changed into a more boldly bengal-striped shirt and supplemented his look with his favorite wide-framed tortoise Persol sunglasses, identified by the Turin-based brand’s signature sword-inspired “silver arrow” on the temples.

Mastroianni would further his role as Persol’s unofficial brand ambassador by wearing a pair of PO649 sunglasses in Pietro Germi’s Divorce, Italian Style (Divorzio all’italiana) the following year.

With fiancée Emma (Yvonne Furneaux) on his arm, Marcello cooly hides his skepticism behind a pair of Persols when he's called out to cover a faux miracle that ends in tragedy.

With fiancée Emma (Yvonne Furneaux) on his arm, Marcello cooly hides his skepticism behind a pair of Persols when he’s called out to cover a faux miracle that ends in tragedy.

While covering the “miracle”, Marcello layers for the rainy evening in a dark trench coat with a napped, suede-like shell. Aside from this nontraditional cloth, the knee-length double-breasted jacket appears to be detailed like the classic military trench coat with its double-layered shoulder straps (epaulettes), storm flaps over the back and right shoulder, broad lapels with a double hook over the throat, belted sleeve-ends, and a full belt with D-rings around the back. The coat has an additional tab that wraps around the collar with an extended tab on the left that ostensibly connects under the right collar for added throat protection.

LA DOLCE VITA

For a gathering of intellectuals hosted by his morose pal Steiner (Alain Cuny), Marcello wears a plain white shirt and a polka-dotted tie, the most significant variation from the suit’s usual striped shirt and knitted tie accompaniments.

Marcello brings Emma to Steiner's party, where she is advised by the host: "The day you realize you love Marcello more than he loves himself, you'll be happy."

Marcello brings Emma to Steiner’s party, where she is advised by the host: “The day you realize you love Marcello more than he loves himself, you’ll be happy.”

Marcello is back in the bengal-striped shirt and dark knitted tie when he receives the depressing news that Steiner has killed his children and himself and is thus tasked with informing Steiner’s wife, a series of events that sends Marcello into orgiastic despair by the film’s end.

The light of day best reveals the details of Marcello's nighttime-oriented suit, but daylight also exposes the emptiness of his dolce vita to this point.

The light of day best reveals the details of Marcello’s nighttime-oriented suit, but daylight also exposes the emptiness of his supposed dolce vita to this point.

I don’t believe this is the same suit that Marcello wears with his more medium-toned shirt and tie during the prologue, chapel, and seaside restaurant intermezzo as that suit appears to be made of a heavier and more traditional worsted cloth that doesn’t shine.

How to Get the Look

Marcello Mastroianni as Marcello Rubini in La Dolce Vita (1960)

Marcello Mastroianni as Marcello Rubini in La Dolce Vita (1960)

A black suit? In this economy? Few can truly get away with one, especially with such day-to-night frequency as Marcello Mastroianni’s hipper-than-hip society writer in La Dolce Vita, where he wears his silky black continental suit the base of an ostensible uniform with striped shirt, knitted tie, monks, and oversized accessories like cufflinks and shades.

  • Black wool/silk Italian-tailored Brioni suit:
    • Single-breasted 3/2.5-roll suit with notch lapels, curved “barchetta” breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, “con rollino” roped shoulders, 3-button cuffs, and double vents
    • Double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • White hairline-striped cotton shirt with point collar and double/French cuffs
  • Round oversized etched cuff links
  • Black knitted silk tie
  • Black leather belt with single-prong buckle
  • Black leather single-strap monk shoes
  • Black socks
  • Persol tortoise sunglasses

Curious about if you should wear a black suit? Learn more about them in a cinematic context with an exploration of 007’s black suits by Bond Suits and then follow Primer’s flowchart: Should I buy a black suit? before making your ultimate decision.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, considered one of the greatest of all time.

You can also read more about the style of La Dolce Vita in these well-researched articles by Clothes on Film and The Rake.

The Quote

She’s right, I’ve had it all wrong. We’ve all had it all wrong.

Marcello gets it right by following Sylvia in for a brief romp in Rome's famed Trevi Fountain.

Marcello gets it right by following Sylvia in for a brief romp in Rome’s famed Trevi Fountain.

Patrick McGoohan’s Arrival Suit on The Prisoner

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Patrick McGoohan as "Number Six" on The Prisoner (Episode 1: "Arrival")

Patrick McGoohan as “Number Six” on The Prisoner (Episode 1: “Arrival”)

Vitals

Patrick McGoohan as Number Six, recently resigned secret agent

“The Village”, Fall 1967

Series: The Prisoner
Episodes:
– “Arrival” (Episode 1.01, dir. Don Chaffey, aired 9/29/1967)
– “Fall Out” (Episode 1.17, dir. Patrick McGoohan, aired 2/1/1968)
Created by: Patrick McGoohan & George Markstein
Wardrobe: Masada Wilmot & Dora Lloyd
Tailored by: Dimi Major & Douglas Hayward (Major, Hayward Ltd.)

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

The Prisoner debuted in the UK on this date in 1967, a passion project from Patrick McGoohan after his rise to stardom on the British espionage series Danger Man. Mystery continues to surround the series, which has been argued as a surreal explanation of ego and individualism within the trappings of the then-fashionable “spy-fi” genre mix, inspiring more questions than answers over its seventeen-episode run, including the true identity of McGoohan’s character known only as “Number 6”, suggested to be a continuation of John Drake from Danger Man or possibly even an allegory for the actor himself.

Number 2: I suppose you’re wondering why you’re here.
Number 6: The thought had crossed my mind… what’s it all about?

For decades, fans and followers of The Prisoners have dedicated themselves to unlocking the show’s mystery and meanings, including an exploration of the “true” order in which the episodes should be watched. (Check out the U.S. home page for The Prisoner, which made fantastic companion reading as I watched the series for the first time this year. I also enjoy the episode studies at Prisoner Pop Apostle.)

Co-created by McGoohan with George Markstein, The Prisoner wastes no time in establishing its unique espionage-meets-sci fi premise through an exciting opening credits sequence that was praised at the time and through the decades since. We follow McGoohan through the streets of London in his distinctive Lotus Seven following his contentious retirement from a shadowy secret service bureau, returning to his flat to hastily pack for what looks to be a tropical getaway… until he falls victim to an incapacitating agent gassed through the keyhole. The man awakens in what appears to be the same set of rooms, though transported to a seemingly idyllic seaside village where the title card tells us he has made his “Arrival”. Is it paradise or is it prison?

His questions pile on until he’s finally brought to the series’ first Number 2 (Guy Doleman, recognizable to James Bond fans as Count Lippe from Thunderball), who slyly confirms the latter when he asks “have you not yet realized there’s no way out?”

What’d He Wear?

I’ve had several requests to write about The Prisoner, including the rowing blazer and rollneck that would make up his everyday “uniform” in every following episode of the series, though several readers were also interested to read about Number 6’s own outfit that he wears in London and for his arrival in the village. As BAMF Style reader “Swordfish” suggested of this outfit, “his suit is really his own style and represents the individualism that his captors gradually try to strip away from him throughout the show.”

Number 6 returns to his office to make his dramatic resignation, depicted in the opening credits of nearly every episode.

Number 6 returns to his office to make his dramatic resignation, depicted in the opening credits of nearly every episode.

Mason & Sons has confirmed on their site that Patrick McGoohan was a personal client of Anthony Sinclair, the legendary Savile Row tailor who famously crafted Sean Connery’s suits as James Bond, though Sinclair likely had no hand in the clothing worn on The Prisoner, including the braided-edge blazer worn in every episode; a glimpse at the tag in a later episode instead suggests that Number 6’s everyday blazer was created by the British fashion house John Michael, confirmed by a Bonhams auction listing.

A separate Bonhams listing for this suit mentions a “Major, Hayward Ltd.” label that indicates it was crafted at the Fulham shop run by Dimi Major and Douglas Hayward, both of whom would go on to dress Bond actors George Lazenby and Roger Moore, respectively. (You can read more about the brief Major and Hayward partnership at Bond Suits.)

The charcoal lounge suit has a distinctive shine, suggestive of silk or perhaps mohair tonic, a then-fashionable blend of wool and mohair that was developed by textile company Dormeuil in the early 1960s and was embraced in England as the suiting of choice by mods throughout the decade. I’m more inclined to theorize that silk is the shining agent of choice on McGoohan’s suit as it lacks the subtlety of mohair.

The single-breasted suit jacket has notch lapels that roll to a lower two-button stance, detailed with welted breast pocket, straight hip pockets with narrow flaps, and double vents. The natural shoulders have slight roping at the sleeveheads and each sleeve is finished with three buttons at the cuff. Like McGoohan’s nailhead Danger Man suit that Bond Suits detailed, the jacket has a gently suppressed waist and front darts that extend to the bottom of the jacket, adding fullness to the chest.

A well-tailored Number 6 meets Number 2.

A well-tailored Number 6 meets Number 2.

Number 6’s suit has matching flat front trousers with a tapered leg down to the bottoms finished with turn-ups (cuffs). These trousers have side pockets and belt loops, worn with a black ridged leather belt.

Rover and Number 6 get acquainted.

Rover and Number 6 get acquainted.

Though it’s suggested that he’s a British agent, Number 6 has a less formal approach to daily dress than James Bond or even John Drake, though his choice to wear an untucked knit polo rather than a traditional shirt and tie may also be his way of showing disdain for the secret organization from which he’s resigning.

We never see Number 6’s shirt worn without the jacket, but the cloth is likely a soft, comfortable wool like merino or cashmere, worn over a white undershirt glimpsed as he attempts his desperate run from Rover on the beach. The shirt has three mother-of-pearl two-hole buttons, all worn fastened on a plain “French placket”, additionally detailed with an extra loop-fastened button at the top. Unlike many loop collars on traditional camp shirts, this additional button isn’t concealed by the collar so this exposed fourth button positioned just to the right of the top of the placket provides a distinctive, slightly askew look.

Appropriate for the less formal way Number 6 wears his suit, McGoohan wears black leather Chelsea boots with black elastic side gussets. Though this footwear style was at least a century old—developed during the Victorian era, reportedly for Queen Victoria herself—these elastic-sided paddock boots enjoyed a resurgence from the mod culture in mid-century England, specifically among the fashionable King’s Road set that led to their being dubbed “Chelsea boots.”

Perhaps worth noting, King’s Road was just a mile or two away from the Dawes Road shop where Major and Hayward were operating at the time McGoohan would have been fitted for his suit.

Note the slight ruck about an inch from the bottoms of his trousers, suggesting that they've been finished with cuffs.

Note the slight ruck about an inch from the bottoms of his trousers, suggesting that they’ve been finished with cuffs.

Number 6 cycles through a variety of watches across The Prisoner‘s series run, beginning with this steel-cased piece with a yellowed tan dial and worn on a textured black strap. This watch would be ruined by seawater in “The Chimes of Big Men” (the second episode to air but the fifth to be produced), so he would briefly swap it out for an Estonian agent’s steel watch on an expanding band.

In future episodes, we would notably see a stainless Camerer Cuss. & Co automatic watch on on a black leather strap and, on one occasion, a steel Tissot that he would dangle by its steel link bracelet to induce hypnosis in “A Change of Mind”.

Number 6 is told that his stylish suit is burnt during his overnight stay in the village infirmary in “Arrival”, leading to his being issued the now-famous everyday attire of a black piped rowing blazer by John Michael, navy rollneck, khakis, and boating shoes. (Check back in a few months for a full rundown on Number 6’s uniform!)

Number 6 leaves the infirmary in "Arrival", now clad in his village-issued garb that also includes a boater, brolly, and badge that would all be permanently discarded by episode's end.

Number 6 leaves the infirmary in “Arrival”, now clad in his village-issued garb that also includes a boater, brolly, and badge that would all be permanently discarded by episode’s end.

After the departure of co-creator George Markstein, The Prisoner grew increasingly surreal with episodes like “Do Not Forsake Me Oh My Darling” which starred Nigel Stock as Number 6, ostensibly as part of a body swap plot (in fact made to keep the show going while Patrick McGoohan was busy filming Ice Station Zebra.)

Stock was dressed in a manner likely meant to reflect Number 6’s suit from the opening credits, though even a cursory review makes it clear that the actor is wearing different clothes; the suit is a lighter slate-gray, made from a coarser flannel cloth and cut with a full three-button front, and the dark gray (rather than black) knit shirt has a plain three-button top of gray buttons rather than the unique 3+1 button configuration on McGoohan’s shirt.

"Do Not Forsake Me Oh My Darling" features Nigel Stock dressed in a tribute to McGoohan's outfit from the credits, with too many major differences in color, cloth, and style to argue that it's the same clothing.

“Do Not Forsake Me Oh My Darling” features Nigel Stock dressed in a tribute to McGoohan’s outfit from the credits, with too many major differences in color, cloth, and style to argue that it’s the same clothing.

Another of The Prisoner‘s latter-produced episodes, “The Girl Who Was Death”, brings the suit out of the closet for Number 6, albeit as part of his garb for a nighttime story he’s reading to the children of the Village. This time, he wears the suit with a French blue shirt with gold cuff links and a gold silk tie. He also dons a beige flat cap (with triple-snap brim) and raglan-sleeve raincoat, curiously wearing a pair of sand-colored suede chukka boots that coordinate more with this outerwear than the rest of the outfit.

Note that these trousers clearly have plain-hemmed bottoms rather than the subtle cuffs on the trouser bottoms seen in "Arrival".

Note that these trousers clearly have plain-hemmed bottoms rather than the subtle cuffs on the trouser bottoms seen in “Arrival”.

The surreal sequence in “The Girl Who Was Death” continues with McGoohan wearing the same suit now included as part of a Sherlock Holmes-influenced disguise that includes a fawn-toned plaid sleeveless and half-caped overcoat worn with a white frilly double-cuff shirt, black string tie, and houndstooth tweed deerstalker cap as well as the decidedly non-Holmesian black-framed sunglasses. For this part of the episode, he’s also back to wearing black Chelsea boots.

Six-lock Holmes fights his way through his storybook version of London, first with fists and then with a Bren gun.

Six-lock Holmes fights his way through his storybook version of London, first with fists and then with a Bren gun.

After Number 6’s series-length struggle to regain his identity, he’s granted a reprieve in the finale episode, “Fall Out”, when the supervisor (Peter Swanwick, born today in 1922) leads him to a closet where a dummy in McGoohan’s likeness wears the clothes Number 6 had arrived in. “We thought you would feel happier as yourself,” the supervisor explains, allowing Number 6 to dress in these familiar duds.

Number 6 and his unlikely allies, the final Number 2 (Leo McKern) and the silent butler (Angelo Muscat) in "Fall Out".

Number 6 and his unlikely allies, the final Number 2 (Leo McKern) and the silent butler (Angelo Muscat) in “Fall Out”.

What to Imbibe

Unlike some fictional English spies, Number 6 isn’t much of a drinker, most prominently imbibing after he receives a warning that his pint of beer was poisoned during the extended story-time sequence in “The Girl Who Was Death”. Number 6 calmly orders a shot from nearly every bottle within eyeshot, subsequently downing Courvoisier cognac, Vat 69 blended Scotch, vodka, Drambuie, Tia Maria, Cointreau, and Grand Marnier in rapid succession.

Number 6 powers through a mixture of shots that are guaranteed to help him purge the poison in his system.

Number 6 powers through a mixture of shots that are guaranteed to help him purge the poison in his system.

“Sir, you’ll make yourself sick!” the barmaid warns once he’s finished them all off, but that’s exactly what he intended. Similar to an action Daniel Craig’s 007 would take forty years later in Casino Royale, Number 6 lets the unwisely mixed liquors rebel in his stomach so that he can puke up the poisoned ale and live to spy another day.

The Gun

Number 6 doesn’t typically have the opportunity to carry or use firearms until the chaotic finale “Fall Out” when he leads fellow prisoners in an armed revolt against the Village guards, mowing them down with his Thompson submachine gun against the juxtaposed reprise of the Beatles’ “All You Need is Love”.

A hooded Number 6 takes cover and takes aim with his Tommy gun in "Fall Out".

A hooded Number 6 takes cover and takes aim with his Tommy gun in “Fall Out”.

With its vertical finger-grooved foregrip, 20-round box magazine, Cutts compensator, and the bolt handle on the top (rather than the side) of the frame, Number 6’s commandeered Tommy gun is clearly a pre-war Thompson, likely an M1921AC or M1928 popularized during the roaring ’20s “gangster era”.

The Car

While booze and guns may not be the standard trappings of Number 6’s preferred lifestyle, we do know that he has an affinity for automobiles, particularly his custom Lotus Seven that Patrick McGoohan drives around London during the famous opening credits.

Number 6, back at the wheel of his favorite Lotus in a dark gray wool suit borrowed from Mrs. Butterworth in "Many Happy Returns".

Number 6, back at the wheel of his favorite Lotus in a dark gray wool suit borrowed from Mrs. Butterworth in “Many Happy Returns”.

Lotus introduced its tubular-framed, aluminum-bodied Seven in 1957 as its new entry level model, first rigging the open-top two-seater with a 1172 cc inline-four Ford engine that offered 40 horsepower. Though the Seven’s light weight and aerodynamic frame already aided its performance, it received an additional power boost with the launch of the Super Seven in 1961. This Series II Super Seven was powered by slightly larger engines from the Ford Consul Classic, modified by racing engineers at Cosworth, growing in size from 1340cc through 1498 cc to 1599 cc by the end of the generation’s production run.

The 1.6 L engine would be used in the final two iterations of the Seven, the Series III and Series IV. The latter was the largest, built on a squared fiberglass shell with a slightly longer wheelbase. After Colin Chapman planned to restructure his marque’s image away from the “kit car” styling, Lotus sold the rights to the Seven design to the newly formed specialized auto manufacturer Caterham Cars after the final Lotus Seven rolled off the production line in August 1973.

McGoohan motors his Lotus Seven through London in the opening credits of The Prisoner, first seen in "Arrival".

McGoohan motors his Lotus Seven through London in the opening credits of The Prisoner, first seen in “Arrival”.

1965 Lotus Super Seven (Series II)

Body Style: 2-door open sports car

Layout: front mid-engine, rear-wheel-drive (FMR)

Engine: 1498 cc (1.5 L) Cosworth-modified Ford Kent OHV I4

Power: 75 hp (56 kW; 76 PS) @ 5200 RPM

Torque: 78 lb·ft (106 N·m) @ 2300 RPM

Transmission: 4-speed manual

Wheelbase: 88 inches (2236 mm)

Length: 144 inches (3658 mm)

Width: 56 inches (1422 mm)

Height: 43.7 inches (1110 mm)

The Prisoner lore tells that the original choice for Number 6’s car was a Lotus Elan. However, when Lotus marketing director Graham Arnold provided both an Elan and a Seven, McGoohan’s preference for the Seven made it his character’s signature set of wheels, painted in British racing green with a bright yellow nose and registered “KAR 120C”. McGoohan’s character proves to be just as invested in the car as the actor himself, explaining to Mrs. Butterworth in “Many Happy Returns” that he had assembled his Lotus himself from a kit and reciting the engine serial number: 461043TZ. (Curiously, McGoohan does drive an Elan in the episode “The Girl Who Was Death”.)

During the production gap before the finale was filmed, the screen-used Lotus had already been sold so Caterham reportedly converted an earlier Lotus to resemble Number Six’s green-and-yellow Seven for its appearance at the end of “Fall Out”, where it was driven by Caterham founder Graham Nearn.

After at least a year in the Village, Number 6 doesn't notice anything awry with his slightly different Lotus Seven by the time he returns home in "Fall Out".

After at least a year in the Village, Number 6 doesn’t notice anything awry with his slightly different Lotus Seven by the time he returns home in “Fall Out”.

A half-decade after The Prisoner concluded, Caterham Cars was officially founded and took over the reigns from Lotus as official producers of the Seven, continuing to offer both kits and fully assembled versions of the design. Among the thousands of the Caterham 7 cars manufactured in the nearly 50 years since production began, Caterham Cars did introduce a Prisoner-branded trim package in 1989 painted in Number 6’s preferred green-and-yellow livery.

You can read more about the series’ use of the Lotus Seven in this illustrated post at Sands Mechanical Museum.

How to Get the Look

Patrick McGoohan and Guy Doleman on The Prisoner (Episode 1: "Arrival")

Patrick McGoohan and Guy Doleman on The Prisoner (Episode 1: “Arrival”)

Patrick McGoohan’s Number Six on The Prisoner provides a fashionably informal alternative to more traditionally tailored English secret agents of the ’60s, dressing for what would prove to be a transformative day in a charcoal silk suit paired with a tonally coordinated black polo buttoned to the neck with Chelsea boots.

  • Charcoal silk tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and double vents
    • Flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black wool-knit long-sleeve polo shirt with 3-button “French placket” and loop collar
  • Black ridged leather belt
  • Black leather Chelsea boots
  • Black socks
  • White cotton undershirt
  • Stainless automatic watch with tan dial on black textured strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series. Be seeing you.

The Quote

I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed, or numbered! My life is my own.

Walter Matthau in The Taking of Pelham One Two Three

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Walter Matthau as Zachary Garber in The Taking of Pelham One Two Three (1974)

Walter Matthau as Zachary Garber in The Taking of Pelham One Two Three (1974)

Vitals

Walter Matthau as Zachary Garber, New York City Transit Authority police lieutenant

New York City, December 1973

Film: The Taking of Pelham One Two Three
Release Date: October 2, 1974
Director: Joseph Sargent
Costume Designer: Anna Hill Johnstone

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today would have been the 100th birthday of Walter Matthau, perhaps best known to today’s audiences for his roles opposite Jack Lemmon such as The Odd Couple and the Grumpy Old Men movies, though the New York-born actor’s rich filmography expands a range of genres from westerns and war movies to comedies and crime capers. One of my favorites falls into the latter category, the action thriller The Taking of Pelham One Two Three.

Main Title

Released one day after Matthau’s 54th birthday, The Taking of Pelham One Two Three stars the actor as a scrappy New York City Transit Authority police lieutenant whose bad day gets considerably worse once  a well-armed team led by the calculating ex-mercenary Bernard Ryder, aka “Mr. Blue”, (Robert Shaw) hijacks a subway. No longer capable of sustaining “a normal woik week,” Lieutenant Garber enlists the help of his pal, fellow lieutenant Rico Patrone (Jerry Stiller).

Patrone: What’s up, Z?
Garber: You won’t believe it.
Patrone: You know me, I’ll believe anything.
Garber: A train has been hijacked.
Patrone: I don’t believe it.

The Taking of Pelham One Two Three is one of my favorite “New York movies”, alongside Sweet Smell of SuccessAnnie Hall, and Manhattan, bolstered by the Lower East Side-born Matthau’s performance as the believably beleaguered transit cop trying to maintain the lives—and sanity—of all involved. At one tense moment, Garber can’t help but to advise the chief thief:

Listen, fella, I hope you take this in the right spirit but after this is over, you should seek out psychiatric help.

What’d He Wear?

Costume designer Anna Hill Johnstone had two decades of experience dressing some of most iconic characters on both sides of the law with credits including On the Waterfront (1954), The Godfather (1972), Serpico (1973), and Dog Day Afternoon (1975). Between dressing Al Pacino in silk suits and filed jackets, Johnstone found the time to put together a delightfully chaotic and surprisingly accessible ensemble for Walter Matthau’s haggard transit lieutenant Zachary Garber, which has been the subject of several requests from readers including Blake, Guido, and H.F.

The New York City Transit Authority may be a bustling hub of computers and communications systems, but its staff could hardly be mistaken for NASA engineers in their array of stout and slackened ties, rumpled knitwear, and shirts in every hue. There are some exceptions who prefer more traditional business dress—most notably Lieutenant Patrone and the visiting delegation from Japan—but Garber’s autumnal palette fits with the overall NYCTA office “uniform”. That said, Garber shows a keener eye for dressing, opting for a tasteful and timeless tweed jacket and at least attempting to keep his tie knotted to the neck.

Lieutenant Garber takes a considerably different approach to dressing than the Japanese businessmen he's tasked with touring around.

Lieutenant Garber takes a considerably different approach to dressing than the Japanese businessmen he’s tasked with touring around.

Garber’s woolen tweed sports coat is woven in a tan and cream herringbone, so named for the broken twill weave’s resemblance to a fish skeleton. The weave on Garber’s jacket isn’t the traditional herringbone; instead, each “column” of herringbone-style chevrons alternates with a column of the same threads, birdseye-woven.

Despite tweed’s origins in the British Isles, Garber wears an appropriately American unstructured cut with soft, natural shoulders, similar to the sack coats popularized by U.S. outfitters like Brooks Brothers from the turn of the century onward.

The single-breasted jacket has notch lapels that roll over the top of three mixed plastic sew-through buttons for what is known as a 3/2 roll with two matching buttons at the end of each cuff. The lapels, the welt over the breast pocket, and the hip pocket flaps are detailed with sporty “swelled” edges. Though the mid-1970s was a time of excess for most menswear, Garber’s jacket is cut and styled in a manner that transcends its decade, with traditional detailing, moderate widths of lapels and pocket flaps, and only a somewhat longer-than-usual single rear vent betraying its temporal provenance.

WALTER MATTHAU

“It’s a testament to the power of Matthau as an actor that his garishly appalling shirt and tie do not distract from his performance,” tweeted director and screenwriter Christopher McQuarrie during a rewatch of the movie in January 2020. Indeed, while Garber’s tweed sport jacket would have a deserved place in any gentleman’s closet, the same cannot be said for that colorful shirt and tie. That’s not to say that the look is altogether tasteless—in fact, I’d argue that Matthau wears both quite well—but neither are necessarily menswear essentials and instead are reflective of Garber’s charmingly colorful personality.

The shirt is a small-scaled tartan plaid in red, yellow, and teal blue, likely off-the-rack with the decade’s favorite collar, long-pointed with substantial tie space to accommodate a decent-sized knot. The shirt has a breast pocket and white plastic buttons that contrast against the colorful shirting on the front placket and closing each cuff.

Garber's particular police duties tend to require more aspirin than ammunition.

Garber’s particular police duties tend to require more aspirin than ammunition.

A shirt like that considerably limits one’s tie choices to solid colors, and choosing one that coordinates without clashing. Bright and unorthodox though it may be, Garber’s golden tie may be the best way to go, calling out the yellow check from the shirt while contrasting enough to not get lost in the busy shirt.

Garber wears plain brown flat front trousers with side pockets, jetted back pockets (without buttons), and plain-hemmed bottoms. He also wears a wide dark brown leather belt through the trousers’ loops, closing through a squared, gold-toned single-prong buckle.

Note the black label stitched on the back of Garber's yellow tie.

Note the black label stitched on the back of Garber’s yellow tie.

Brown shoes are a safe bet with an outfit like this, and Garber appears to dress for the office in a pair of chestnut brown calf cap-toe oxford semi-brogues, worn with black socks. In an interesting continuity error, his brown shoes appear to have a more prominent moc-toe by the time he’s down in the subway, a switch likely made to avoid Matthau needing to wear office shoes in this dirtier setting.

The swap is forgivable; he still wears brown lace-ups, and the subway scene is so darkly lit that it’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it catch… especially considering that this thriller was made considerably before audiences had high-resolution home video where they could pause and notice that Walter Matthau has now wearing different shoes.

"Don’t worry miss, there’ll be an ambulance along in no time," Garber reassures the long-haired (but decidedly male) undercover officer who lays injured on the subway tracks.

“Don’t worry miss, there’ll be an ambulance along in no time,” Garber reassures the long-haired (but decidedly male) undercover officer who lays injured on the subway tracks.

Garber wears a plain gold-toned wristwatch with a round, light-colored dial on a dark brown leather strap that closes through a gold single-prong buckle.

WALTER MATTHAU

When the events of the day lure Garber from his office, he puts on his khaki gabardine raincoat. December in New York City may call for something heavier for most people, but Garber’s classic bal-type raincoat is a versatile, weather-ready top layer that can be comfortably worn over his already-heavy tweed jacket. The raglan-sleeved coat has slanted side pockets with single-button closure and small semi-tabs that button on each cuff for an adjusted fit. The front closes up a five-button covered fly.

Lieutenants Garber and Patrone (the latter in full uniform) follow up on a list of disgruntled subway employees.

Lieutenants Garber and Patrone (the latter in full uniform) follow up on a list of disgruntled subway employees.

Hat and gloves are also necessities for winter in the Big Apple, both supplementing the coat for extra warmth and protection when Garber heads outside. His lined three-point gloves are caramel brown leather.

While a fedora or even a more structured trilby worn with his raincoat may have affected an image reminiscent of a film noir anti-hero, Garber opts instead for a genteel tweed trilby. (Not unlike Carl Reiner’s topper in Ocean’s Thirteen, which would be gently derided by Ellen Barkin’s character as “the Doctor Doolittle hat.”) Garber’s soft, unstructured trilby is constructed from twin threads not unlike his sport jacket, though a darker olive brown is mixed with cream, woven in a nailhead pattern with a self-band.

Apropos his detective style, Lieutenant Garber's hat and coat evokes Sherlock Holmes rather than Philip Marlowe.

Apropos his detective style, Lieutenant Garber’s hat and coat evokes Sherlock Holmes rather than Philip Marlowe.

The Gun

One gets the sense that Lieutenant Garber’s day-to-day work doesn’t call for much use from his service handgun, though the unprecedented circumstances that lead him down into the subway tunnels call for an appearance from Smith & Wesson Model 10 snub-nosed revolver.

.38 in hand, Garber confronts the mysterious "Mr. Blue".

.38 in hand, Garber confronts the mysterious “Mr. Blue”.

Smith & Wesson introduced what would become the go-to police cartridge of the 20th century, the .38 Special, in tandem with its “Military & Police” revolver just before the dawn of the 20th century. By the 1970s, .38 Special six-shooters from Smith & Wesson and Colt dominated the American law enforcement market, with the latest evolution of the six-shot Military & Police revolver now designated the Smith & Wesson Model 10 after the manufacturer had started numbering its models in the ’50s.

Indeed, it was Colt who had foreseen the need for an easily concealable .38 Special nearly a half-century earlier when the Colt Detective Special was marketed in 1927. Smith & Wesson responded a generation later with the smaller-framed Model 36 “Chiefs Special”, though the increased concealment came at the cost with the cylinder reduced to five rather than six shots. For Smith & Wesson fans who wanted the full compliment of six .38 Special rounds, the Model 10 was also available with a “snub-nosed” two-inch barrel as opposed to the 4″-barreled variant that was frequently issued to uniformed officers across the 20th century. (In fact, I believe the 2″-barreled Smith & Wesson .38 was first offered around 1915, though it wouldn’t be as effectively marketed as a “belly gun” as the later Detective Special.)

What’d He Wear?

Walter Matthau as Zachary Garber in The Taking of Pelham One Two Three (1974)

Walter Matthau as Zachary Garber in The Taking of Pelham One Two Three (1974)

In his excellent review for Cinephelia & Beyond, Tim Pelan describes Zachary Garber as “a clothing colorblind Colombo.” This thoughtful shorthand describes Garber’s approaches to both dressing and detecting, though I believe Matthau’s character earns some points for colorful originality (and effective coordination) anchored by his tasteful tweed sports coat.

  • Tan and cream herringbone-and-birdseye woolen tweed single-breasted 3/2-roll sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and long single vent
  • Red, yellow, and teal mini-plaid cotton shirt with long point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and squared button cuffs
  • Yellow tie
  • Brown flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown belt with squared gold-toned single-prong buckle
  • Brown calf cap-toe oxford semi-brogues
  • Black socks
  • Khaki gabardine bal-type raincoat with covered 5-button fly front, slanted side pockets, single vent, and raglan sleeves (with semi-tab cuffs)
  • Caramel brown lined leather three-point gloves
  • Olive-brown and cream nailhead tweed unstructured trilby
  • Gold-toned wristwatch with light dial on dark brown leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Gesundheit.

"Gesundheit."

The post Walter Matthau in The Taking of Pelham One Two Three appeared first on BAMF Style.


Alain Delon’s Leather Jacket in Any Number Can Win

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Alain Delon as Francis Verlot in Any Number Can Win (Mélodie en sous-sol) (1963)

Alain Delon as Francis Verlot in Any Number Can Win (Mélodie en sous-sol) (1963)

Vitals

Alain Delon as Francis Verlot, swaggering small-time thief

Paris, September 1960

Film: Any Number Can Win
(French title: Mélodie en sous-sol)
Release Date: April 3, 1963
Director: Henri Verneuil

Background

Any Number Can Win was adapted from Zekial Marko’s 1959 novel The Big Grab, the first of the author’s crime stories that would be adapted to films starring Alain Delon. Marko himself would adapt his novel Scratch a Thief into Once a Thief (1965), starring Delon, Ann-Margret, and Van Heflin.

Considered one of the best and certainly among the most stylish movies of the early 1960s, the ice-cool Any Number Can Win—released in France as Mélodie en sous-sol—begins with recently released ex-con Charles (Jean Gabin) searching for a new partner to help him with his ambitious heist. “I have a kid who just might jut cut it… I hope I don’t find him good for scrap.”

We then cut to what looks like a messy bachelor pad, where a young man is sprawled out on his bed, snapping his fingers to the jazz on his record player. He’s already dressed for larceny in his leather jacket, a dinner plate doubling as an ashtray—crowded with spent Gitanes and shelved on a pile of books—not far from his reach. Pulling back, we reveal that the “bachelor pad” is merely a corner of the family apartment that the young man shares with his reasonably concerned mother, whose shout from the kitchen leaps him to attention… revealing the one and only Alain Delon!

Gitane clenched in his teeth and marked with an unfamiliar scar, Delon’s character takes the opportunity to taunt his mother, to whom he’s five months late paying his rent. The poor woman can’t bear to see her 27-year-old son, who recently served two years for the “youthful indiscretion” of armed robbery, idling all day with no job, money, or prospects.

Mme. Verlot: You’ll kill your dad and me of grief!
Francis: Then no one will find the murder weapon.

Enter Charles with the prospective solution to Francis’ financial woes and ambitions: a major robbery in the Riviera.

What’d He Wear?

The rockabilly-loving Francis Verlot styles himself after the quintessential American “greaser” subculture made famous by Marlon Brando in The Wild One (and later sanitized by the Fonz) with his leather jacket and slicking back his hair that would otherwise fall naturally with a slight curl over his forehead. This marked a considerable shift from Delon’s Ivy-meets-continental fashions three years earlier in Plein soleil.

ALAIN DELON

When we meet Francis Verlot, his daily dress is anchored by a leather flight jacket, likely constructed of black lambskin, with a zip-up front that smoothly closes up to the neck where it meets the shirt-style collar. The jacket has horizontal yokes across the front of the chest and the back. Shoulder pleats behind each armhole extend down from the back yoke to the waistband, giving its wearer a greater range of movement. The plain cuffs have only a short tab on the inside to adjust tightness, and there are two slanted hand pockets.

The jacket is pulled in at the waist with a self-belted strap toward the back of each side, similar to the U.S. Navy’s WWII-issue Type 440 carrier jacket, each closing through a single-prong buckle and ostensibly collected under a leather strip along the back of the jacket waistband.

Francis works the jukebox.

Francis works the jukebox.

Francis leaves his family home to drop in on his brother-in-law Louis (Maurice Biraud), a mechanic he later describes as “so monstrously honest, it’s twisted.” Leaving home, he buttons his work shirt up to the neck.

ALAIN DELON

We see more of the shirt while Francis, Charles, and Louis are in the Riviera, finalizing the details of their planned casino heist. The rugged shirting is likely a light blue brushed cotton, styled with a large spread collar, front placket, button cuffs, and two patch pockets over the chest, each detailed with a horizontal yoke.

Note the outline of Francis' pack of Gitanes in his shirt pocket.

Note the outline of Francis’ pack of Gitanes in his shirt pocket.

Our first glimpse of Francis is of his feet, one planted on the ground with the other hanging off the other side of his bed. He wears dark trousers, possibly a charcoal gray woolen cloth, with a long rise to his waist where they’re held up with a slim brown leather belt that closes through a single-prong buckle. These flat front trousers have side pockets and the bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Given his personality and demeanor, it’s no surprise that Francis wears comfortable and casual footwear, a pair of black leather plain-toe loafers with short elastic side gussets filling the vents on each side of the instep to allow Francis to slip his dark-stockinged feet in and out of the shoes with ease.

Our first look at Francis Verlot, loafing around in his loafers.

Our first look at Francis Verlot, loafing around in his loafers.

Once Francis and Charles’ plan is underway, they meet back at Louis’ garage where Francis provides an array of ID photos he had taken for the papers that will be used to create his cover identity as Francis Grandchamp. “Same first name so you don’t get mixed up,” explains Charles, simultaneously explaining the process followed by Tony Danza’s casting directors.

As Francis looks over the photos, we also get a nice look at his wristwatch, a stainless steel piece that has a round black dial rigged with luminescent numeric hour markers and worn on a steel expanding band. He would swap this out for a more elegant dress watch once he arrives in the Riviera, likely at Mister Charles’ urging.

According to Francis' watch, it's 1:25 a.m. when he meets with Charles and Louis to look over his new identification.

According to Francis’ watch, it’s 1:25 a.m. when he meets with Charles and Louis to look over his new identification.

“I’d prefer them with a necktie, but they’ll do,” Charles observes of the photos taken earlier that day, before looking Francis over and directing: “Talking about threads, you’ll need to dress up.”

In this case, Francis has already seemingly taken a step toward dressing up by layering a soft mohair V-neck sweater under his jacket, worn over a lighter-colored work shirt that would again appear in the Riviera scenes. Of course, Charles was thinking more along the lines of suits and ties for his young protégé.

"And take off the knickknacks," Charles advises the chunky ring Francis wears on the third finger of his right hand. "It gives a bad impression."

“And take off the knickknacks,” Charles advises the chunky ring Francis wears on the third finger of his right hand. “It gives a bad impression.”

The Gun

After observing Mr. Grimp (José Luis de Vilallonga) conduct casino operations, Charles, Francis, and Louis discuss how they’ll commence to steal a season’s worth of missions from the casino vault… by having a dinner-suited Francis ride atop the actual elevator as it descends.

When Francis asks Charles how he’ll be sticking up Mr. Grimp’s men, Charles reveals a MAS-38 submachine gun but cautions him that he shouldn’t need to use it: “In tense situations, talking firmly with steel in your mitt keeps everybody in line.”

Louis expresses some reasonable hesitation one he sees the level of artillery Francis will be carrying for the job.

Louis expresses some reasonable hesitation one he sees the level of artillery Francis will be carrying for the job.

The Pistolet Mitrailleur MAS modèle 38 evolved from the first French submachine gun, the STA 1922 and MAS 1924 developed after World War I. Unlike its 9mm predecessors, the blowback-operated MAS-38 fired the same 7.65×20mm Longue rimless ammunition as in the French modèle 1935A service pistol, fed from a 32-round box magazine.

As its designation implies, this weapon entered production in 1938 and was produced steadily through 1949, even during the years of Nazi occupation when it was redesignated MP722(f) by the Germans and issued to the Vichy French. The unique weapon’s most significant wartime usage may have been in the hands of Italian partisan Walter Audisio who reportedly gunned down Benito Mussolini with a MAS-38.

Production briefly resumed following World War II until it was replaced in French Army service by the 9mm MAT-49 in—you guessed it!—1949.

How to Get the Look

Alain Delon as Francis Verlot in Any Number Can Win (Mélodie en sous-sol) (1963)

Alain Delon as Francis Verlot in Any Number Can Win (Mélodie en sous-sol) (1963)

The leather-clad “greaser” wasn’t solely an American phenomenon of the fabulous fifties, as Alain Delon effectively dresses in leather jacket and loafers to look the part of a swaggering street grifter who needs a new wardrobe before he can fit in among the Riviera jet-setters.

  • Black lambskin leather flight jacket with shirt-style collar, zip-up front, side pockets, “action back” pleats, and buckle-tab side adjusters
  • Light blue brushed cotton work shirt with large spread collar, front placket, two top-yoked chest pockets, and button cuffs
  • Dark wool flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Brown leather belt with single-prong buckle
  • Black leather side-gusset loafers
  • Black socks
  • Ornamental ring
  • Stainless steel wristwatch with round black dial on steel expanding band

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

You always say I’ll die on the gallows. Make your mind up: disease or decapitation?

The post Alain Delon’s Leather Jacket in Any Number Can Win appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Sopranos: Paulie’s Black Leather-and-Suede Jacket

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Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "Where's Johnny?", the third episode of the fifth season of The Sopranos.

Tony Sirico as “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri in “Where’s Johnny?”, the third episode of the fifth season of The Sopranos.

Vitals

Tony Sirico as “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri, mob captain and Army veteran

New Jersey, early 2000s

Series: The Sopranos
Episodes:
– “From Where to Eternity” (Episode 2.09, dir. Henry J. Bronchtein, aired 3/12/2000)
– “Second Opinion” (Episode 3.07, dir. Tim Van Patten, aired 4/8/2001)
– “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power” (Episode 3.10, dir. Jack Bender, aired 4/29/2001)
– “Army of One” (Episode 3.13, dir. John Patterson, aired 5/20/2001)
– “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08, dir. Dan Attias, aired 11/3/2002)
– “Whoever Did This” (Episode 4.09, dir. Tim Van Patten, aired 11/10/2002)
– “Where’s Johnny?” (Episode 5.03, dir. John Patterson, aired 3/21/2004)
– “The Ride” (Episode 6.09, dir. Alan Taylor, aired 5/7/2006)
– “Made in America” (Episode 6.21, dir. David Chase, aired 6/10/2007)
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

Background

Heh, heh… happy #MafiaMonday, folks. In response to a request I received from a BAMF Style reader, today’s subject would be particularly recognizable for fans of The Sopranos as a sartorial signature from the wardrobe of the singular Paulie Walnuts.

While most of the series’ talented cast has been rightly praised for completely inhabiting their characters, Paulie remains an anomaly for how much of actor Tony Sirico’s own eccentricities, from his biographical details to his peculiar sense of style from head (those famous hair wings) to toe (those white shoes.)

As Michael Imperioli and Steve Schirripa’s Talking Sopranos podcast begins exploring the landmark series’ third season, entertaining stories continue to emerge about the influence Sirico wielded on how his character would be portrayed. From the beginning, Sirico—who had originally auditioned for the role of Uncle Junior—was insistent that his character never become “a rat.” As the show progressed, the actor maintained control of the character that was arguably a fictionalized version of himself, warning the writers what would happen if they tried to replace his white loafers with cement shoes.

“Let me tell you something,” Sirico informed writer and director Terence Winter. “If you ever write a script where I die? First, I die. Then, you die.”

What’d He Wear?

Paulie Walnuts may be most remembered for his tracksuits (and rightly so, as he wore literally dozens over the course of the show), but the most frequently seen item from Paulie’s wardrobe was arguably his black leather-and-suede blouson jacket that debuted toward the end of the second season and would be worn sporadically through the rest of The Sopranos‘ run, including an appearance in the series finale.

For such a prominent piece of the show’s wardrobe, it may be surprising that there’s so little documented or known about this jacket… or perhaps it’s less surprising, considering that I suspect it belonged to Sirico in real life and—like many of the actor’s own quirks—was “borrowed” by Paulie Walnuts on screen. Assuming that this was indeed a favorite piece from the Sirico collection explains why it was never worn for any stunt-heavy sequences where it could be potentially ruined by fake blood, dirt, sweat, or snow.

Tony Sirico as Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos.

Paulie debuts his favorite leather jacket as he explains the concept of purgatory, “a little detour on the way to paradise” to Christopher: “You add up all your mortal sins and multiply that number by 50. Then you add up all your venial sins and multiply that by 25. You add that together and that’s your sentence. I figure I’m gonna have to do 6,000 years before I get accepted into heaven, and 6,000 years is nothin’ in eternity terms. I can do that standing on my head. It’s like a couple of days here.”

The black leather jacket first appeared in “From Where to Eternity” (Episode 2.09) when Paulie visits Christopher in the hospital, where the harsh florescent lighting showcases the contrast between the smooth-sided leather that makes up most of the body and the black napped suede detailing across the front and around the collar. The large, long-pointed suede collar suggests a disco-era provenance to me, possibly dating back to when Paulie “lived through the ’70s by the skin of my nuts when the Colombos were goin’ at it.”

The additional suede detail include vertical strips down the front from each shoulder seam to the waistband, connected over the chest by a horizontal strip of the same width that intersects with the vertical strips just in front of each armpit. The front zip is also flanked by about an inch of suede on each side so that, when zipped up, it creates the effect of a third suede strip up the center. The jacket has set-in sleeves which fall slightly off Sirico’s shoulders and a squared tab with a single-snap closure.

In “From Where to Eternity”, Paulie wears this jacket zipped up a few inches at the bottom over a charcoal button-up shirt printed in a balanced, all-over zigzag pattern. Based on Sirico’s gestures in the scene and the manner in which he wears the jacket’s cuffs unsnapped and rolled back over each wrist, we can ascertain that the shirt is likely short-sleeved.

Tony Sirico as Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos.

One of Paulie’s characteristically less-than-reassuring hospital visits in “From Where to Eternity” (Episode 2.09).

Over the years to follow, Paulie would alternate between favoring button-up shirts or knitwear under the jacket. For each of its third season appearances, he opts for crew-neck sweaters:

  • When Paulie leads a panty-sniffing search of the Moltisanti abode in “Second Opinion” (Episode 3.07), his cream-colored sweater is arranged in blocks consisting of five raised bars that alternate between horizontal and vertical orientations.
  • Overseeing Christmas preparations at Satriale’s in “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power” (Episode 3.10), Paulie wears another off-white sweater, this one patterned with an askew “harlequin print” of repeating black diamond shapes with the neutral space between them alternating between pale blue and off-white diamonds. The narrowly ribbed crew neck is off-white to match the sweater body.
  • Paulie installs his appreciative at Captain Teeb’s Green Grove retirement community in “Army of One” (Episode 3.13), dressing for the occasion with a black box-patterned sweater under his familiar jacket. Under the high black crew neck, the front of the sweater is organized into a grid with small boxes comprised of four horizontal lines each, the shades of gray alternating by row between light and dark.

I’m not aware of any of the specific brands that made this knitwear, though I know auctioned clothing Sirico wore in the show was made by Italian-originated brands like Massoti and Tuscan.

Paulie wears crew-neck knitwear under his black leather-and-suede jacket in The Sopranos' third season episodes "Second Opinion" (Episode 3.07), "...To Save Us All from Satan's Power" (Episode 3.10), and "Army of One" (Episode 3.13), which also introduces us to his presumed mother Marianucci "Nucci" Gualtieri (Frances Esemplare).

Paulie wears crew-neck knitwear under his black leather-and-suede jacket in The Sopranos‘ third season episodes “Second Opinion” (Episode 3.07), “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power” (Episode 3.10), and “Army of One” (Episode 3.13), which also introduces us to his presumed mother Marianucci “Nucci” Gualtieri (Frances Esemplare).

For the jacket’s back-to-back appearances in The Sopranos‘s fourth season, Paulie wore it over light-colored button-up shirts. Interestingly enough, its first appearance is back at Green Grove in “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08) when Paulie wears it over a light cream long-sleeved dress shirt to meet with the facility’s social director. This shirt has a point collar, worn open at the neck, with a breast pocket and button cuffs.

In the following episode, “Whoever Did This” (Episode 4.09), Paulie is unsympathetic to the Cifaretto family’s plight when he arrives at the Bing with his jacket zipped over an ivory long-sleeved shirt with an abstract “bossa nova” print motif, also worn with the top two buttons of the plain “French placket” undone to show his graying chest hair and the top of his undershirt.

Back to button-up shirts for Paulie in the fourth season, as seen in "Mergers and Acquisitions" (Episode 4.08) and "Whoever Did This" (Episode 4.09).

Back to button-up shirts for Paulie in the fourth season, as seen in “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08) and “Whoever Did This” (Episode 4.09).

The jacket makes its sole fifth season appearance in “Where’s Johnny?” (Episode 5.03) for a classic moment of Paulie pettiness as he’s cruising through the neighborhood in his champagne-colored Cadillac Eldorado and stops to inflict some damage in a literal turf war between landscaping companies.

Paulie’s back to wearing knitwear under his jacket, this time sporting a baby blue crew-neck sweater split into vertical divisions created by alternating knitting patterns. The wide ribbing on the crew neck is reminiscent of the sweater he wore in “Second Opinion”, suggesting the same manufacturer of both.

Paulie cruises through his mother's neighborhood in "Where's Johnny?" (Episode 5.03).

Paulie cruises through his mother’s neighborhood in “Where’s Johnny?” (Episode 5.03).

The La Manna vs. Vitro landscaping war gives us our first real look at Paulie wearing this jacket in action. To this point, we’d seen little of the trousers he wears with this jacket, aside from seeing that they tend to be dark. In fact, Paulie often coordinates the shade of his trousers to his shirt. In this case, with his baby blue sweater, he wears navy trousers.

Paulie frequently wears polyester Sansabelt trousers, so named for their ability to be worn sans belt due to their signature elasticized inner waistband that holds the trousers up while offering a clean tuck for the shirts worn with them, though he often wears them with suspenders under his untucked knit shirts. Paulie favors flat front trousers, rigged with Western-style “frogmouth” front pockets and an extended waistband tab that closes through a single button. These trousers also have button-through back pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms… bringing us to his shoes.

Paulie’s white loafers have become legendary in Sopranos lore, finally given their opportunity to shine on screen during a brief vignette in “Remember When” (Episode 6.15) as Paulie packs three of four identical pairs of his signature all-white Vikings loafers before his trip to Florida with Tony. A favorite of Sirico’s in real life (of course), these comfortable-looking slip-on shoes have white leather uppers with a split toe and top-stitching that follows the curve of the front quarters over the insteps. Given his stated distaste for shoelaces, we shouldn’t be surprised that Paulie almost exclusively wears non-laced loafers.

Gary La Manna's preference for white shoes—albeit sneakers—wasn't enough to save him from Paulie's wrath in "Where's Johnny?"

Gary La Manna’s preference for white shoes—albeit sneakers—wasn’t enough to save him from Paulie’s wrath in “Where’s Johnny?”

The jacket makes two appearances in “The Ride” (Episode 6.09), set during the annual Feast of Elzéar of Sabran, for which Paulie is responsible for organizing activities as well as the titular ride. He makes the rounds of the festival wearing this jacket over a beige button-up shirt, grid-patterned with every other square outlined in a higher-contrast brown. The long-sleeved shirt has a structured point collar and mitred barrel cuffs and is worn with a pair of tan Sansabelt trousers resembling these “taupe” Par Mélange pants still available on the Sansabelt website as of October 2020.

By the episode’s end, Paulie has made peace with Nucci (Frances Esemplare), the older woman he had believed to be his beloved “Ma” but was, in fact, his aunt. When he visits her that night to join her in watching “the Lawrence Welk program, channel 55,” he’s wearing the jacket over a slate-gray knit pullover quarter-zip with a white grid and white zipper tape, sported with what looks like more traditional dark gray slacks.

"The Ride" (Episode 6.09)

“The Ride” (Episode 6.09)

Paulie briefly wears the jacket again in the series finale, “Made in America” (Episode 6.21), when he returns to the now-closed Bing and briefly recalls his vision of the Virgin Mary on stage in “The Ride”. This final appearance of the jacket marks one of the few times Paulie wears it completely unzipped, revealing the printed shirt he wears tucked into his brown Sansabelt trousers. The ecru shirt is printed with an abstract pattern of sketched gray trapezoids and open-center squares, styled with a point collar, plain “French placket”, and rounded cuffs that he wears buttoned.

Tony Sirico as Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos.

“Made in America” (Episode 6.21)

Paulie shares his fellow wiseguys’ preference for white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirts. Emblematic of his Catholic faith and upbringing, he wears a gold textured cross on a gold rope-chain necklace.

Seated in his favorite chair at home, Paulie takes a late-night call in "The Ride" (Episode 6.09).

Seated in his favorite chair at home, Paulie takes a late-night call in “The Ride” (Episode 6.09).

Another staple of wiseguy accessories are chain-link bracelets, and Paulie is naturally no exception with the heavy yellow gold figaro-link bracelet he wears on his right wrist.

Tony Sirico as Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos.

Sirico showcases his classic double-fingered “Paulie Walnuts point” that presses both his index finger and ring-adorned pinkie into service, seen here in “Whoever Did This” (Episode 4.09).

“I’ve been wearing it for 30 years,” Tony Sirico told Ilene Rosenzweig for “Ba-Da-Bing! Thumbs Up for the Pinkie Ring,” a January 2000 article in The New York Times article that published the same night that the second episode of the second season aired in January 2000. “It’s part of my life.”

Mr. Sirico was discussing his pinkie ring, the same one he wears when playing Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos, the HBO mob opera that started its second season last week. “They say Mafia wear pinkie rings, but men of style wear pinkie rings,” Mr. Sirico said. “So long as they’re not gaudy and the man has a nice hand — not too feminine a hand.” Mr. Sirico, who favors what he called a “sexy” black onyx look, said he was unaware that pinkie rings had gone out of style.

In the first two seasons, Paulie wears a gold pinkie ring with mesh-like sides and a round black onyx stone. By the fourth season, he would switch to a smooth-sided ring with the square-shaped onyx setting bordered by mini diamonds. As the show approached its final seasons, Paulie appeared to be wearing yet another ring, similar to the previous one but with just a plain, raised rectangular onyx setting with mitred corners and no diamond ornamentation.

Tony Sirico as Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos.

Paulie’s last of several onyx-mounted gold pinkie rings, seen here in “The Ride” (Episode 6.09).

For most of the series, Paulie wore steel Movado Esperanza wristwatches, both in yellow gold and silver-toned stainless finishes. The Movado is a perfect watch for Paulie’s character: distinctive-looking and Italian-sounding (though Swiss in origin) but ultimately inexpensive, at least when compared with the boss’ $10,000 gold Rolex.

Movado, ref. no 0607059, has the marque’s minimalist “museum dial” in matte black with a gold-toned concave dot at 12:00 and gold hands. The case is 39mm yellow gold PVD-finished stainless steel, worn on a matching “free-falling bracelet design with signature open links and push-button deployment clasp,” according to the official website description of the Movado Esperanza.

Paulie flashes his Movado as he raids Gary La Manna's wallet in "Where's Johnny?" (Episode 5.03)

Paulie flashes his Movado as he raids Gary La Manna’s wallet in “Where’s Johnny?” (Episode 5.03)

Paulie had been wearing his Movado watches as early as the second episode, “46 Long” (Episode 1.02), though he often alternated between his watches over the series’ first two seasons. “From Where to Eternity” (Episode 2.09) features a stainless Movado, though the scene where he debuts this jacket in Christopher’s hospital room shows him wearing a different wristwatch. This timepiece is styled like a flat gold rice-grained bracelet with a flush white square-shaped dial.

As seen here in "From Where to Eternity", Paulie's second season accessories included a different ring, occasionally a different watch, and he wasn't wearing his chain-link bracelet yet.

As seen here in “From Where to Eternity”, Paulie’s second season accessories included a different ring, occasionally a different watch, and he wasn’t wearing his chain-link bracelet yet.

How to Get the Look

Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "...To Save Us All from Satan's Power", the tenth episode of the third season of The Sopranos.

Tony Sirico as “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri in “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power”, the tenth episode of the third season of The Sopranos.

More than any other actor on The Sopranos, Tony Sirico brought his real-life peculiarities to the character of Paulie Walnuts, from mannerisms to menswear. Of the latter, one of the foundations of Paulie’s wardrobe was a black leather blouson, distinctively patterned with strips of suede crossing over the front of the jacket to match the wide collar, worn in nearly every season of the show and almost always with his signature beltless trousers and white leather loafers.

  • Black leather zip-up blouson jacket with large black suede collar, black suede horizontal and vertical strip detailing, side pockets, and single-snap cuffs
  • Crew-neck sweater
  • Neutral-toned polyester Sansabelt trousers with fitted waistband, extended single-button front waist tab, “frogmouth” front pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White leather split-toe Vikings loafers
  • Black socks
  • Movado Esperanza 0607059 gold-coated stainless steel watch with black minimalist dial on gold-finished “free-falling” open-link bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with black onyx stone

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series, and follow my friend @tonysopranostyle on Instagram for more looks into the mobbed-up menswear of The Sopranos.

For fans of the show, I always recommend picking up a copy of The Soprano Sessions by Matt Zoller Seitz and Alan Sepinwall.

The Quote

A lot of things used to be!

The post The Sopranos: Paulie’s Black Leather-and-Suede Jacket appeared first on BAMF Style.

Matt Damon in Jason Bourne

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Matt Damon in Jason Bourne (2016)

Matt Damon in Jason Bourne (2016)

Vitals

Matt Damon as Jason Bourne/David Webb, amnesiac ex-CIA assassin

Athens, Berlin, London, and Las Vegas, Fall 2015

Film: Jason Bourne
Release Date: July 11, 2016
Director: Paul Greengrass
Costume Designer: Mark Bridges

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy 50th birthday, Matt Damon! Nearly 15 years after the actor first kicked cinematic ass as the amnesiac assassin, Damon again stepped into Jason Bourne’s globe-trotting boots for one more installment of the spy franchise extolled for its relative realism, intriguing narrative, and expertly choreographed fight scenes.

I remember… I remember everything.

The Bourne Identity had begun by establishing our protagonist’s suite of espionage skills despite any lack of memory, which Jason Bourne subverts by depicting his clearer recollections of giving up his life as U.S. Army Captain David Webb to serve a shadowy government sub-agency as sleeper assassin Jason Bourne. Though The Bourne Legacy starring Jeremy Renner had been released in the interim since The Bourne Ultimatum, this continuation wisely slides past the shadow of Renner’s lesser-received Aaron Cross and picks up with the more familiar face of the series’ title character, more than a decade after he went off the map following the events of Ultimatum, and now living in exile as a bareknuckle fighter.

What’d He Wear?

We meet the stubbed and scarred, salt-and-pepper haired Jason Bourne on the Greek-Albanian border, spending his days in bareknuckle bouts and dressed as he had in his earlier life as David Webb, clad in a drab zip-up hoodie over an undershirt. He strips off the top layer—which includes a well-worn brown leather jacket—for his first match, dressed to brawl in just his tan cotton cargo pants with a wide dark brown leather belt.

The movie subverts the expectations of those who may expect this initial bout to be another Bourne-level, minutes-long brawl, but Jason isn't fighting a Treadstone-trained assassin and he knocks out his opponent with a single blow. (Don't worry, action fans! We'll get more of a fight about ten minutes later.)

The movie subverts the expectations of those who may expect this initial bout to be another Bourne-level, minutes-long brawl, but Jason isn’t fighting a Treadstone-trained assassin and he knocks out his opponent with a single blow. (Don’t worry, action fans! We’ll get more of a fight about ten minutes later.)

Karl Urban as Kirill in The Bourne Supremacy (2004)

Karl Urban as Kirill in The Bourne Supremacy (2004)

Hmm, a brown leather jacket over a zip-up hoodie and undershirt… where have we seen that before in the Bourne canon? Ah, yes- Karl Urban sported a similar look as the FSB killer Kirill, stalking Bourne through Moscow in The Bourne Supremacy. (In the same movie, Bourne himself had been mistakenly described as wearing a “black coat, possibly leather,” though it wasn’t until the events of Jason Bourne that the erstwhile David Webb was actually seen on screen wearing a leather jacket.)

The jacket stays, but Bourne swaps out the rest of his outfit once he’s pulled back into the world of espionage, meeting with former associate Nicky Parsons (Julia Stiles) in Athens to collect her files illustrating his past as well as his father’s involvement in the clandestine CIA program that doomed Bourne to a life of danger.

“Look at yourself, look at what you’re doing… you can’t live like this much longer,” Nicky counsels Bourne, echoing advice he’d received much earlier.

The Syntagma Square anti-government demonstrations provide decent cover for Bourne and Parsons’ covert meeting, but it also sadly adds enough cover that the CIA asset (Vincent Cassel) called in can easily assassinate Nicky among the increasing violence between the police and the protestors. Bourne’s nondescript outfit helps him blend in among all sides of the demonstration, and he’s able to make his escape on a stolen police motorcycle… after expertly overpowering two agents, of course.

Bourne establishes in Athens the outfit that he will continue to wear for the majority of Jason Bourne‘s duration: a brown leather jacket, navy long-sleeved pullover shirt, dark jeans, and brown boots.

Production photo of Matt Damon and Julia Stiles in Jason Bourne.

Production photo of Matt Damon and Julia Stiles in Jason Bourne.

Bourne travels through Europe in a brown leather zip-front jacket made from a rugged, durable hide made suppler with age and wear as evident by its well-traveled patina. The style could be described as a simplified “cafe racer” jacket, detailed with a short standing collar without snaps or tabs and no chest pockets, just a slanted hand pocket on each side with a zip closure.

If you’re looking for a Bourne-style jacket, you could seek out a no-frills moto jacket like this Alex Brown jacket (via TheJacketMaker), this Calvin Klein jacket (via Amazon), or this Cole Haan jacket (via Macy’s). As with most newly released movies—particularly action movies—replica makers were quick to market their own, suspiciously underpriced replicas of Bourne’s jacket like this one available from Amazon.

Characteristically, Bourne’s wardrobe was carefully selected to give him every tactical advantage, subdued enough to fit in while also versatile and utilitarian enough that he can rely on it in any situation. While not technically oversized, the jacket’s generous fit and hip length provide Bourne the freedom to cycle through different weights of layers and, of course, to conceal a firearm more easily than he could with a shorter or slimmer-fitting jacket.

Bourne’s jacket is reinforced at the shoulders, with seams tapering in from the set-in sleeve heads to meet the base of the standing collar at the neck. The cuffs are left plain with no errant zippers, buttons, or tabs that could get caught in mid-action and impede Bourne’s progress.

Jason Bourne illustrates how well-suited his rugged leather jacket is for everyday spyjinks, whether conducting surveillance or overriding a security system.

Jason Bourne illustrates how well-suited his rugged leather jacket is for everyday spyjinks, whether conducting surveillance or overriding a security system.

Beginning in Greece, Bourne continues his long-standing tradition of not wearing collared shirts (aside from the burgundy short-sleeved pique polo in the 1999 flashbacks to lunch with his father) by dressing in a navy blue waffle-woven thermal cotton long-sleeved henley shirt, detailed with a three-button placket at the top.

JASON BOURNE

Between Athens and Berlin, Bourne adapts to the cooler oceanic climate of the German capital by swapping out his henley for a similarly toned navy crew-neck shirt, also long-sleeved and lightweight but with more chest coverage and without anything that could be leveraged—like a flapping placket at the neck—by an enemy in mid-fight, indicating that Bourne is well-aware that he’s now dressing for action again.

JASON BOURNE

Bourne’s jeans mark the first time we see him wearing blue jeans since he had borrowed a baggy pair from the Mediterranean fishermen at the start of The Bourne Identity. The signature arcuate stitching on the back pockets confirms that our all-American former assassin is wearing Levi’s jeans, despite the removal of the familiar red tab from the inside of the right back pocket. (Pairs of screen-worn Levi’s that were worn by Matt Damon and his stunt double Ben Dimock remain available on eBay as of October 2020.)

In Greece, he wears a pair of more faded dark blue denim Levi’s with a heavy black leather belt, though he changes into a pair of darker indigo wash jeans by the time he’s jumping from a London rooftop several days—and countries—later.

JASON BOURNE

JASON BOURNE

Bourne cycles through several different sets of boots, all lace-up ankle-high boots with brown leather upper construction. In the Greek-set scenes, he’s wearing dark brown hiking boots with an apron-style toebox, heavy lugged outsoles, and metal “speed lacing” rather than traditional eyelets. The quarters appear to be napped as opposed to the oiled leather across the toe boxes.

One he’s in England, Bourne has changed into a more sophisticated pair of plain-toe chukka boots made from a light brown suede. A Dappered article suggested that these resemble the two-eyelet Timberland Earthkeepers City Chukka boots with brown oiled leather uppers and black lugged outsoles (still available on Amazon), though Bourne’s boots appear to have three sets of brass-grommeted lace eyelets rather than two.

There may be other boots still, as he seems to be wearing a pair of darker oiled leather boots with black rubber outsoles—detailed with small red centerpieces that may give a clue to their manufacturer—while confronting the “hacktivist” whistleblower Christian Dassault (Vinzenz Kiefer) in Berlin.

The boots of Bourne: biking in hiking boots in Athens, and falling for a pair of good chukkas in London.

The boots of Bourne: biking in hiking boots in Athens, and falling for a pair of good chukkas in London.

Bourne again turns to his trusty TAG Heuer for his timekeeping needs, though his chosen chronograph takes a sportier direction than the link-bracelet wristwatch from the earlier trilogy. In this installment, Damon wears a TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph, identified on the watchuseek.com forum as model CAU1114.FT6024. (No longer in the TAG Heuer stable, you can see the Swiss brand’s existing lineup of Formula 1 motorsport watches here, and the occasional CAU1114.FT6024 makes its way to Amazon.)

Water-resistant to 200 meters (or 660 feet), this quartz-powered watch has a black titanium carbide-coated steel 42mm case and fixed bezel, strapped to a branded black ridged rubber bracelet that closes through a plain steel double-folding deployment buckle. Protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal—which no doubt comes in handy during those multi-story falls—the round black dial features three black sub-registers and a date window at the 4:00 position.

Though built for action more along the lines of diving and driving, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph proves its fortitude by keeping time without a scratch after Bourne plummets to the ground from a London rooftop.

Though built for action more along the lines of diving and driving, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph proves its fortitude by keeping time without a scratch after Bourne plummets to the ground from a London rooftop.

As Bourne’s old world comes crashing back to him on a more personal level than expected, he finds an unlikely ally in the form of the CIA’s new head of cyber operations, Heather Lee (Alicia Vikander), whose principled and idealist approach to her work has her challenging the agency’s wish—driven by director Robert Dewey (Tommy Lee Jones)—to have Bourne eliminated.

Perhaps to signal Heather’s ideological alliance with Bourne, she’s dressed similarly in her own dark brown leather zip-front jacket and navy long-sleeved shirt when she arrives in London.

Birds of a feather: the uneasy alliance born in London between Bourne and Heather Lee is subconsciously communicated to the audience by their similar wardrobe choices.

Birds of a feather: the uneasy alliance born in London between Bourne and Heather Lee is subconsciously communicated to the audience by their similar wardrobe choices.

From London, Bourne travels to Las Vegas, perhaps as extreme an antipode from the capital of the UK as it gets. His arrival in Sin City calls for a changed wardrobe, though he stays true to his subdued self rather than dressing in Ace Rothstein‘s pastel silks.

Indeed, Bourne’s Vegas vestments are consistent with the dark, layered style we’ve come to expect. His top layer is a dark navy blue lightweight jersey-knit quarter-zip pullover, another callback to his early style in The Bourne Identity when the Mediterranean fishermen had dressed him in an admittedly bulkier rust-toned quarter-zip. He wears this over a dark navy T-shirt with short sleeves that print under the pullover’s long sleeves. Little else of Bourne’s wardrobe has changed as he’s certainly wearing the same TAG Heuer watch, brown plain-toe ankle boots, and even the same dark blue Levi’s jeans, carrying his SIG Sauer sidearm tucked into the rear waistband.

To both hide his face and fit in with the rest of the conference attendees at ExoCon 2016 where Dewey is expected to speak alongisde shady tech CEO Aaron Kalloor (Riz Ahmed), Bourne dons a black ExoCon-branded baseball cap that marks the first time we’ve ever seen him actively don a disguise beyond his reliance on nondescript clothing.

One of the biggest surprises from Jason Bourne was seeing our titular hero using the latest iPhone, which would have been the 6 or 6S at the time filming commenced in the fall of 2015. Wouldn't such a cloud-friendly smartphone make it easier for the CIA to track him?

One of the biggest surprises from Jason Bourne was seeing our titular hero using the latest iPhone, which would have been the 6 or 6S at the time filming commenced in the fall of 2015. Wouldn’t such a cloud-friendly smartphone make it easier for the CIA to track him?

The denouement connects one-time allies Bourne and Heather Lee on a late fall day in Washington, D.C. Enough time has passed for Bourne to pick up some new threads, though he again doesn’t deviate from his preferred aesthetic, wearing what appears to be a black waxed cotton jacket over a black crew-neck long-sleeved T-shirt.

The thigh-length jacket has a double-snap standing collar and a fly front that can be closed by zipper and/or snap poppers, all with black leather trim. There is a vertical zip-entry pocket flanking each side of the fly over the chest and flapped patch pockets below the cinched waist, each detailed with an open “handwarmer” pocket behind it. The shoulders are horizontally yoked across the front and back, and the set-in sleeves appear to only have a short semi-tab to adjust the fit over each cuff.

Bourne confronts Heather Lee with the knowledge that he'll always be a step ahead of her... and then strolls off to the familiar outro music of Moby's "Extreme Ways".

Bourne confronts Heather Lee with the knowledge that he’ll always be a step ahead of her… and then strolls off to Moby’s familiar—but updated—outro “Extreme Ways”.

The Guns

Bourne’s fists are his primary weapons for the first 20 or so minutes of the movie, though—when the true danger begins—our well-trained firearms expert takes the first opportunity to arm himself.

Aware that CIA assassins are following him through the Syntagma Square demonstrations, Bourne grabs a Molotov cocktail from a rioter and smashes it on the ground to create a diversion, taking advantage of his pursuers’ disorientation by proactively attacking them and disarming an agent of his Heckler & Koch USP pistol… which he eventually drops after gaining the attention of the Athens police.

This German semi-automatic pistol was introduced in the mid-1990s, initially for the newly developed .40 S&W cartridge though a variety of calibers (9mm, .357 SIG, and .45 ACP), configurations, and sizes were made available over the decades to follow, whether a shooter was looking for concealment, combat, or competition. This model had previously appeared as the favored weapon of Bourne’s enemy Desh (Joey Ansah) in The Bourne Ultimatum, where the rival assassin carried a suppressed and smaller-sized H&K USP Compact Tactical during his fight with Bourne in Morocco.

The H&K USP model that Bourne briefly handles here in Athens appears to be a standard USP9, a full-sized, traditional double action (DA/SA) service pistol with a 15-round box magazine of 9×19 mm Parabellum ammunition.

Bourne with his commandeered H&K USP pistol drawn in Athens.

Bourne with his commandeered H&K USP pistol drawn in Athens.

In her final moments, Nicky tosses Bourne the key to an Athens depot locker, where he finds not only the USB drive loaded with black ops files but also a SIG Sauer P226R, an evolution of the Swiss manufacturer’s flagship service pistol fitted with a Picatinny rail under the barrel (hence the “R” in the pistol’s designation.)

SIG Sauer was established early on as the unofficial firearm brand of the Bourne universe, with Damon himself primarily handling SIG Sauer pistols in all three original installments of the series before arming himself with the P226 in Jason Bourne.

Unlike the SIG Pro he abandoned in his safety deposit box back in The Bourne Identity, Bourne recognizes that a handgun will come in handy and slips it into his waistband.

Unlike the SIG Pro he abandoned in his safety deposit box back in The Bourne Identity, Bourne recognizes that a handgun will come in handy and slips it into his waistband.

The P226 was developed in the early 1980s, when it was entered into the XM9 trials to compete for the U.S. military contract. Though Beretta won the American contract with its 92FS design, the U.S. Navy was particularly fond of the SIG Sauer pistol and adopted the P226 for Navy SEALs, following adoption by the German Naval Special Forces Command. In the decades to follow, the double-action P226 with its double-stack magazine formed the basis for a range of offspring, varying in size, caliber, action, and finish.

In the 2000s, the P226R variant was added to the lineup with a Picatinny rail under the barrel for accessories like lights or laser sights. As of 2020, the rail is now a standard feature to the degree that SIG Sauer no longer designates it the “P226R” and markets the entire line as just the P226.

Bourne manages to get his P226R across European borders, wielding it most notably when he confronts the former Treadstone surveillance chief Malcolm Smith (Bill Camp) on a London rooftop.

JASON BOURNE

Bourne evidently had to abandon his P226R before heading to the U.S., though he gets his hands on another by knocking out one of Dewey’s agents in an Aria restroom, sticking the agent’s P226R in the back of his jeans.

How to Get the Look

Matt Damon filming Jason Bourne (2016) in London. (Photo sourced from Daily Mail Online, ©FameFlynet.uk.com)

Matt Damon filming Jason Bourne (2016) in London. (Photo sourced from Daily Mail Online, ©FameFlynet.uk.com)

We’ve evolved from the Jason Bourne of the 2000s who tended to layer a dark overcoat (or Harrington jacket, as in The Bourne Ultimatum) over plain crew-neck shirts and sweaters, as the character now wears a less monochromatic and more versatile and rugged outfit anchored by a brown leather jacket, blue jeans, and boots.

  • Brown rugged leather moto-style jacket with standing collar, zip-up front, slanted zip hand pockets, and set-in sleeves with plain cuffs
  • Navy blue cotton long-sleeved shirt, either 3-button thermal henley or crew-neck T-shirt
  • Dark blue denim Levi’s jeans
  • Black leather belt
  • Dark brown leather lace-up ankle boots with lugged soles
  • Black cotton lisle socks
  • TAG Heuer Formula 1 CAU1114.FT6024 Chronograph in black titanium carbide-finished steel with fixed bezel and black dial (with 4:00 date window) on black ridged rubber strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. I was certainly entertained by it, though watching it primarily just made me nostalgic to revisit the original Bourne trilogy as Jason Bourne lacked the unique touch that screenwriter Tony Gilroy had brought to those three. Thankfully, we still have the familiar score by John Powell that adds a sense of continuity across the myriad tension, chases, and fights. The locations also nod to the trilogy, and even the concept of a Las Vegas showdown between Matt Damon and Vincent Cassel mirrors a climactic rooftop scene in Ocean’s Thirteen.

While the original Bourne trilogy had revolutionized action movies for the 2000s—its influence extending to the James Bond franchise, particularly evident in Quantum of Solace—the innovation seems to have dissipated by Jason Bourne, which now followed the two latest 007 installments by incorporating themes of family legacy (Skyfall) and the dangerous segue of hacking into a surveillance state (Spectre). In fact, our Greek-exiled hero sends his days “enjoying death” while wearing a worn brown leather jacket as Daniel Craig did in Skyfall!

The Quote

All that matters is staying alive.

Footnote

Originally, Bourne/Webb was meant to be no more than a few weeks older than Matt Damon himself with the birthday of September 13, 1970 provided in the original series. Jason Bourne inexplicably updates this to make the character eight years younger, born June 4, 1978 though retaining Nixa, Missouri, as his place of birth. (Based on his service record, appearance, and astrological temperament, I’m inclined to stick with the September 13, 1970 birthdate.)

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Robert Forster’s Sport Jacket and Cherry Red Polo in Jackie Brown

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Robert Forster as Max Cherry in Jackie Brown (1997)

Robert Forster as Max Cherry in Jackie Brown (1997)

Vitals

Robert Forster as Max Cherry, reliable bail bondsman

Los Angeles, Summer 1995

Film: Jackie Brown
Release Date: December 25, 1997
Director: Quentin Tarantino
Costume Designer: Mary Claire Hannan

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

One year ago today, the great Robert Forster died at the age of 78 after more than a half-century in movies and TV, perhaps best known for his roles in Medium Cool, Jackie BrownMulholland Drive, and most recently as taciturn “disappearer” Ed on Breaking Bad.

Though he’d been acting for three decades, it wasn’t until Jackie Brown that Forster gained widespread recognition with his Academy Award-nominated performance, establishing both Forster and Max Cherry as the latest beneficiaries of the “Tarantino effect” that had renewed the careers of actors like Harvey Keitel and John Travolta after their turns in QT-directed films.

Jackie Brown remains the rare Tarantino joint adapted from another writer’s source material, in this case the novel Rum Punch by prolific crime author Elmore Leonard, who was born 95 years ago today on October 11, 1925.

Honestly, Max Cherry is probably one of my favorite movie “heroes”, though the modest bail bondsman would probably take issue with such an effusive appellation. With his professional and slightly aloof approach to an arguably dangerous line of work, Max succeeds due to the nature of the character as penned by Leonard and due to the easygoing, “medium cool” charm that Forster brings to the role. In a “comeback” performance that set the stage for the latter decades of the talented actor’s career, Forster easily sells us on his essentially honest character whose attraction to Pam Grier after she blew his mind this time (didn’t she?) may encourage him to have a hand in a somewhat less-than-honest deception.

What’d He Wear?

Max Cherry’s typical wardrobe consists of neutral sport jackets and slacks with polo shirts, a traditional, safe, and generally foolproof approach for dressing down at any age. For this episode at the shopping mall, Max wears a single-breasted sports coat woven in a mixed gray and taupe wool.

Just browsing.

Just browsing.

The jacket’s structure is typical for the 1990s with broad notch lapels that roll to a low two-button stance, wide natural shoulders, a ventless back, and jetted hip pockets in addition to the welted breast pocket.

MAX CHERRY

While it’s never expressly called out, I particularly like that costume designer Mary Claire Hannan dressed Max Cherry in a cherry red shirt for the climactic sequence featuring him acting as agent in Jackie’s double-cross. The short-sleeved shirt is made from a bright red jersey-knit cloth, likely either a smooth cotton or cotton/polyester blend, detailed with a long two-button “French placket” top and banded short sleeve ends.

Though the color may not be the most common, most inexpensive shirt-makers like Hanes, Gildan, and Cutter & Buck include Tiger Woods’ Sunday red among their budget-friendly golf shirt offerings.

Quiet day at the office? May as well go help a felonious flight attendant double-cross a drug dealer and a few feds.

Quiet day at the office? May as well go help a felonious flight attendant double-cross a drug dealer and a few feds.

Max wears slate-gray slacks with double reverse pleats as pleated trousers were still en vogue by the mid-’90s, having been reintroduced to mainstream men’s fashions a decade earlier. He wears a brown leather belt with a squared brass single-prong buckle, which doesn’t coordinate with his well-worn black leather shoes. These somewhat clunky and unstylish shoes somewhat resemble upscaled boat shoes with their swollen-seam moc-toe box and their short, derby-laced two-eyelet facings.

MAX CHERRY

Not surprisingly, Max chooses a subdued but tasteful wristwatch. This dress watch has a slim and simple gold case with a round silver dial and gold hands, worn on a black leather strap that closes through a plain steel single-prong buckle.

Max Cherry? More like Wild Cherry.

Max Cherry? More like Wild Cherry.

How to Get the Look

Robert Forster as Max Cherry in Jackie Brown (1997)

Robert Forster as Max Cherry in Jackie Brown (1997)

Befitting his modest personality, Max Cherry typically values function over flash in his approach to everyday dressing, even balancing his bright cherry red shirt with the more neutral sports coat and slacks.

  • Gray-and-taupe woven wool single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Cherry red jersey-knit short-sleeved polo shirt with two-button top placket
  • Slate-gray double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Brown leather belt with squared brass-finished single-prong buckle
  • Black leather moc-toe two-eyelet derby shoes
  • Gold dress watch with round silver dial on black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie as well as Elmore Leonard’s novel Rum Punch!

The Quote

And away we go…

The post Robert Forster’s Sport Jacket and Cherry Red Polo in Jackie Brown appeared first on BAMF Style.

Roger Moore’s Navy Assault Jacket in Octopussy

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Roger Moore as James Bond in Octopussy (1983)

Roger Moore as James Bond in Octopussy (1983)

Vitals

Roger Moore as James Bond, British government agent

India, Spring 1983

Film: Octopussy
Release Date: June 6, 1983
Director: John Glen
Costume Designer: Emma Porteous

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Born 93 years ago today on October 14, 1927, the great Sir Roger Moore continues to hold the record for the number of films in which he starred as James Bond, playing agent 007 a total of 00-7 times. (Sean Connery also played Bond seven times, though 1983’s Never Say Never Again is considered “unofficial” as it wasn’t made by EON Productions.) In anticipation of Daniel Craig’s final 007 movie No Time to Die—its release yet again delayed for another six months—let’s explore an exciting climactic scene from Sir Roger’s penultimate film as James Bond.

Octopussy significantly expands on Ian Fleming’s short story of the same name, essentially borrowing only the title and some background details and evolving it into a globe-hopping adventure set against the post-détente years of the Cold War as 007 joins forces with the eponymous Octopussy (Maud Adams) against the suave exiled Afghan prince Kamal Khan (Louis Jourdan) and his megalomaniac ally, Soviet General Orlov (Steven Berkoff).

The plot culminates as Bond and Q (Desmond Llewelyn) arrive via Union Jack-emblazoned hot air balloon to join Octopussy and her cult of all-female jewel smugglers in an assault on Kamal Khan’s Monsoon Palace. After Khan and his henchman Gobinda (Kabir Bedi) kidnap Octopussy, Bond pursues them on horseback, resulting in a thrilling scene as he leaps from pony to plane.

What dedication! Moore’s chemistry with Maud Adams proves to be a major asset at the core of Octopussy, no doubt aided by the two actors’ real-life friendship. Bond ending up with Octopussy would have made for a fine finish to Sir Roger’s tenure in the role, but—alas—the forces that be determined that the world needed to have A View to a Kill. (I am not one of those forces.)

Another aspect that makes Octopussy such an enjoyable installment is its embrace of the fun elements that define the 007 franchise, injecting its eye-pleasing action sequences with copious doses of the familiar James Bond theme, and balancing our hero’s reliance on gadgetry, witticisms, and (most importantly) his own resourcefulness and courage to defeat his over-the-top foe. Octopussy may not be a classic movie among the likes of Casablanca or Citizen Kane, but it’s undoubtedly classic Bond.

Plus, Octopussy also proved to be a suitable cinematic companion to Tiger King when I rewatched it under quarantine. (Wow, that comment already feels dated after just six months!)

Plus, Octopussy also proved to be a suitable cinematic companion to Tiger King when I rewatched it under quarantine. (Wow, that comment already feels dated after just six months!)

What’d He Wear?

As Roger Moore was elegantly tailored throughout his dozen-year duration as James Bond, he may not be remembered for his enduring casual wear, but his outfit for the climactic assault in Octopussy may be Sir Roger’s finest example of timeless, ageless dressing-down that would be just as effective even 40 years later, particularly for a sophisticated agent well into middle age.

A great read about this particular set of threads can be found penned by 007 style expert Matt Spaiser at his definitive blog, Bond Suits, where he explores the outfit in great detail and even finds parallels to the literary Bond imagined by Ian Fleming.

The white cotton shirt was almost certainly made by Moore’s usual shirtmaker, Frank Foster, and is worn with the spread collar open at the neck. Though undoubtedly a fine shirt, one of my few constructive criticisms of the outfit is that the shirt may be too dressy for the context of the scene; there’s no reason for Bond to be wearing a white shirt like he would also be wearing with one of his suits, and even a striped shirt may have been a reasonable alternative. Of course Sir Roger, arguably among the most innately debonair of the actors to portray the agent, can pull it off. (It’s also considerably more practical than Q ballooning into the fray wearing a full suit!)

Q joins Bond to get some firsthand experience regarding "the amount of wear and tear that goes on out there in the field".

Q joins Bond to get some firsthand experience regarding “the amount of wear and tear that goes on out there in the field”.

The navy casual jacket from this sequence was among the latest of 007’s duds to be paid tribute by the most recent installment of Orlebar Brown’s 007 Heritage Collection with the release of the “Octopussy Harrington” in midnight blue garment-dyed woven cotton twill. This reimagined blouson, currently available for $525, features most of the details of Moore’s screen-worn jacket, though the cut is an updated slimmer fit with other modifications including a throat-latch and ribbing around the waist hem.

Moore’s navy blue jacket on screen appears to be made from a cotton or cotton-blend cloth that would wear coolly and comfortably in the warm Indian climate. The front zip is covered by a fly from the waist up to the shirt-style collar. A horizontal yoke stretches across the back with four seams that run vertically down to the hem, which is banded around the waist for a blouson-like effect.

The multitude of external pockets resembles the waist-length, multi-pocket garments often marketed as “utility jackets”, with two open-top pockets over the chest and two lower pockets that each close with a single-button flap. The set-in sleeves are finished at the cuffs with pointed tabs that each close through a single dark blue plastic button resembling those that fasten the lower pocket flaps.

Octopussy gives new meaning to the phrase "flight jacket".

Octopussy gives new meaning to the phrase “flight jacket”.

Bond matches his dark navy cotton trousers to the jacket in the grand tradition of Sir Roger’s casual-wear, but it works with this outfit as it adds more of a militaresque bearing rather than dating it like a leisure suit (as in Live and Let Die), a safari suit (seen earlier in Octopussy), or a velour track suit (to come in A View to a Kill.)

The flat front trousers have straight pockets along the side seams, back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms, and Moore wears them with a black leather belt. By this time, Roger had switched from sometimes favoring side adjusters to almost exclusively wearing belts with his trousers, especially more casual slacks like these. I imagine this was a wise transition as I don’t know that I’d trust even the best tailor in the world—and, as Roger was a Douglas Hayward client by this time, that’s saying something!—to craft a pair of trousers that stay up all on their own while I’m jumping from a plane as it’s about to crash!

Comfortably dressed for a crash landing.

Comfortably dressed for a crash landing.

If my gripe with the white shirt was related to form, I do take a functional issue with Bond’s choice of footwear during what he knows will be an action-packed assault. As Moore’s time in the role coinciding with a universal inclination toward informality, his Bond was increasingly comfortable in slip-on shoes, whether wearing a blazer or black tie kit. This scene is no exception, as we see Bond slipping from Q’s hot air balloon in a pair of black leather moc-toe Venetian loafers with either black or midnight blue ribbed socks.

Are any of my readers physicists? I'd love to know how realistic it would have been for Bond's low-vamp loafers to remain on his feet through this entire airborne sequence.

Are any of my readers physicists? I’d love to know how realistic it would have been for Bond’s low-vamp loafers to remain on his feet through this entire airborne sequence.

In his infinite wisdom, Roger Moore’s stunt double Norman Howell dressed his feet for the physical demands of leaping from horseback onto an ascending airplane, sporting a pair of lace-up shoes that appear to be all-black sneakers or trainers as evident by their profile and details like the sporty swollen collars. (Moore would wear trainers only once during the Bond series, with the aforementioned black velour FILA tracksuit in A View to a Kill.)

Roger Moore's stunt double, Norman Howell, wears more stunt-friendly lace-up shoes while riding off to catch his plane. 

Roger Moore’s stunt double, Norman Howell, wears more stunt-friendly lace-up shoes while riding off to catch his plane.

More than 30 years before the Apple Watch would revolutionize the way people were obsessively looking at their wrists, Seiko already had a vision for the future. The Japanese manufacturer was an unsurprising candidate for this degree of innovation, having already pioneered the world’s first quartz watch (the Astron in 1969) and racing against Casio to develop “computer watches” that would prefigure the modern smartwatch.

While these early computer watches like the Casio Databank and the Seiko Data 2000 may have appealed to the egghead-on-the-go, Seiko was also looking to capture the evidently burgeoning “active couch potato” market and developed the concept of a TV you could watch from your wrist… and thus, the Seiko TV Watch, introduced in October 1982. Based on this timing, it must have been swiftly rushed to the set of Octopussy—which had already been filming for two months—in time for Q to assign 007 with his latest timepiece, though it’s more likely that the screen-used watch was based on a prototype presented earlier in the year. (You can find an example of a commercially sold Seiko TV Watch among the vast collection showcased by 007collector.com and from The Computer Museum.)

The wrist-wearing portion of the steel-cased Seiko TV Watch hardly differs in size from the modern Apple Watch with a display measuring 1.5 inches wide by 2 inches tall, consisting of a single-row digital timekeeper along the top with a 1.2″ liquid crystal display (LCD), responsive only to direct external light. As High Techies‘ excellent write-up of the watch explains, “the brighter the light, the clearer the picture.”

Of course, there’s no watching TV at all without wiring the watch to the Walkman-sized TR02-01 receiver, shipped with the watch and designed to be worn inside the pocket… “assuming one has a convenient pocket,” of course. Q Branch appears to have modified Bond’s TV Watch to not only not require the wired receiver but also to provide an almost theatrical-quality resolution no doubt clearer than the 32-pixel display would provide in even the best light.

Seiko innovated the perfect watch for action heroes who wanted to take a break from chasing the bad guy and catch the latest episode of Benson.

Seiko innovated the perfect watch for action heroes who wanted to take a break from chasing the bad guy and catch the latest episode of Benson.

The Gun

Feeling the need for more formidable artillery than his MI6-issued Walther P5, Bond picks up a downed guard’s Sa vz. 58 V rifle and fires it at the onslaught of henchmen as he smoothly rides down a banister in Kamal Khan’s palace, establishing a classic 007 moment… then quickly blasting at what appears to be an ornamental artichoke at the bottom of the banister to avoid serious damage to his thunderballs.

One of my favorite scenes from Roger Moore's tenure as Bond.

One of my favorite scenes from Roger Moore’s tenure as Bond.

Per its name, the Czech 7,62 mm samopal vzor 58 was indeed introduced in 1958 and designated as a “submachine gun” despite arguably being a rifle. The vz. 58 was produced steadily by the the Česká zbrojovka Uherský Brod arms factory in Moravia well into the 1980s with several variants including the vz. 58 V as wielded by Bond, which replaced the fixed stock with a metal folding stock referred to as “kosa” (“scythe”) by Czech soldiers, according to Wikipedia.

Though it shares cosmetic similarities with the iconic Kalashnikov-designed AK-47 assault rifles made famous by the Soviets, the Czech vz. 58 operates on an entirely different short-stroke piston than the long-stroke system of the AK, though both fire the standard Soviet 7.62x39mm ammunition.

Up to this point, Bond had been primarily armed with handguns, rifles, and the occasional submachine gun when taking on the baddies. This was the first time we ever saw Bond use what has been termed an “assault rifle”, foreshadowing Pierce Brosnan’s 007 we would meet in GoldenEye who used commandeered AK-pattern rifles almost more frequently than his own signature PPK!

Roger Moore as James Bond in Octopussy (1983)

Roger Moore as James Bond in Octopussy (1983)
Photo sourced from thunderballs.org

How to Get the Look

Simple, functional, and timeless, Roger Moore’s 007 wears some of his finest casual attire when dressing for conflict at the end of Octopussy. That said, Bond’s white shirt and black loafers may be a bit contextually inappropriate, but his navy cotton utility jacket is ideal for the task at hand.

  • Navy blue cotton utility jacket with shirt-style collar, zip-up front with covered fly, two chest pockets and two lower pockets (with button-down flaps), and single-button pointed-tab cuffs
  • White cotton shirt with spread collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Navy blue cotton drill flat front trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt
  • Black leather loafers
  • Black ribbed socks
  • Seiko TR02-01 Liquid Crystal “TV Watch” with built-in digital timekeeping display and 1.2″ LCD

The cut and cloth of Bond’s navy blouson in these scenes reminds me of a comfortable U.S. Navy-authorized windbreaker I own, made by Creighton in a blend of 65% Dacron polyester and 35% cotton and reportedly issued around the time Octopussy was released.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The post Roger Moore’s Navy Assault Jacket in Octopussy appeared first on BAMF Style.

Introducing… the Don Draper lookbook!

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Jon Hamm as Don Draper in a promotional photo for season 6 of Mad Men

Jon Hamm as Don Draper in a promotional photo for season 6 of Mad Men

BAMF Style readers are well aware of my fandom for Mad Men and—in particular—the series’ magnificent 1960s style by costume designer Janie Bryant (who, if I’m not mistaken, is celebrating her birthday today!)

While I’ll still plan on covering individual outfits from the show’s central characters, I thought a helpful resource for readers and fans of the series could be a comprehensive portfolio detailing all the suits, sport jackets, and casual attire worn by Don Draper (Jon Hamm), the enigmatic ad man at the show’s center. (Yes, GQ already did something like this… however, I wanted to take my own approach!)

One goal of the project: to discern just how many different suits Mr. Draper cycled through during the series’ run. My current documentation suggests around 90 suits, but time—and the completion of this project—will tell!

To keep this project particularly useful, I’ve chosen to forego including Draper’s pajamas and I’m not considering adding a raincoat, removing a tie, or any other outfit modifications to be a separate look. If you’re curious about what else Don wore with the outfit, feel free to comment, reach out, or look for a separate BAMF Style post exploring the outfit in more detail!

So far, the page is complete through the end of the first season as I want to make sure the chosen format is agreeable to BAMF Style users. Depending on the feedback I receive, I may retool a bit (to the best of my rather limited abilities!) before continuing on, but the goal is to have all seven seasons of Don’s Mad menswear chronicled by the end of 2020.

Happy reading, and please let me know what you think—I’m open to any feedback!

Introducing… The Don Draper Lookbook

The post Introducing… the Don Draper lookbook! appeared first on BAMF Style.

Goodfellas: Henry’s Adidas Tracksuit in Prison

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Ray Liotta as Henry Hill in Goodfellas (1990)

Ray Liotta as Henry Hill in Goodfellas (1990)

Vitals

Ray Liotta as Henry Hill, imprisoned New York mob associate

United States Penitentiary, Lewisburg, Fall 1975

Film: Goodfellas
Release Date: September 19, 1990
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

Background

As an Italian-American with no known organized crime affiliations, I was always drawn to Goodfellas for how much I could resonate with the prominence of food—particularly Italian food—throughout my life, such as large family dinners with heaping portions of delicious pasta, sauce, and meats, usually with Dean Martin or Tony Bennett crooning from the hi-fi in the corner. In the spirit of that most relatable element from my favorite movie, I wish you all a Happy National Pasta Day! (And for those outside the United States, let’s all come together to celebrate World Pasta Day a week from now on October 25.)

Last month, as I was rounding up my 30 favorite style moments for Goodfellas‘ 30th anniversary, I realized it had been almost four years since I last explored any of Ray Liotta’s mobbed-up threads as famous turncoat Henry Hill. When I saw back-to-back celebrations of the Italian culinary tradition in October, I knew it was time to explore one of the most famous scenes from Martin Scorsese’s magnum opus.

You can almost smell the garlic and onions in the pasta sauce as we get acquainted for what prison life means to a connected guy like Henry Hill, serving his four-year sentence at USP Lewisburg, a famous federal prison smack-dab in the middle of my home state of Pennsylvania, not far from Bucknell University.) The sophisticated nonchalance of Bobby Darin crooning “Beyond the Sea” immediately establishes that this is no typical big house experience, illustrated not only by the leisurewear-clad wiseguys shooting the shit while stirring the sauce but also Henry’s narration:

When you think of prison, you get pictures in your mind of all those movies of rows and rows of guys behind bars, but it wasn’t like that for wiseguys… I mean, everybody else in the joint was doing real time, all mixed together like pigs, but we lived alone. I mean, we owned the joint!

Despite the winsome soundtrack and Henry’s insistence that “it really wasn’t that bad,” the fact remains that these guys are doing time. True, their minimum-security prison life is a joke and Henry himself would recall in Nicholas Pileggi’s Wiseguy that he eventually talked his way into getting nearly weeklong furloughs that he would partially spend at home. Still, paying for their transgressions means living in a manner with more modesty and restrictions than they would prefer. When Henry comes through the front doors of the prison in the summer of 1978, he’s smiling like he left its stink behind, not realizing that he’s forever marked by not only his time in the clink but also the drug trafficking connections he made and maintained that would eventually ruin his life and those of everyone in his orbit.

On a brighter note, at least they got to enjoy some great steak and pasta while they could!

"Dinner was the big thing of the day. We'd sit around and drink, play cards, and brag, just like outside. We put on a big pot with water for the macaroni. We always had a pasta course first and then meat or fish. Paulie always did the prep work. He had a system for doing the garlic. He used a razor, and he sliced it so fine that it used to liquefy in the pan with a little oil. Vinnie Aloi was in charge of making the tomato sauce. I felt he put in too many onions, but it was a good sauce anyway. Johnny Dio liked to do the meat. We didn't have a grill, so Johnny did everything in pans. When he panfried steak you'd think the joint was on fire, but still the hacks never bothered us."

What’d He Wear?

The wiseguys’ special treatment at Lewisburg extends beyond their accommodations and aliment to their attire. Freed from the rules constricting the khaki-clad criminals among the rest of the general population, the imprisoned mafiosi of the Lucchese crew essentially wear their civilian pajamas and leisurewear for dinner, with practical Paulie in a blue terry cloth robe, the refined Johnny Dio in a brocade silk dressing gown, and old-timer Vinnie with just his sauce-stained apron over an undershirt.

Arguably the youngest and most athletic of the quartet, Henry taps into the burgeoning fashion of the two-piece warm-up tracksuit, later to be infamously immortalized as a “Bensonhurst tuxedo” for its popularity among casually dressed Brooklynites, often of Italian-American extraction and occasionally with cosa nostra connections.

The modern tracksuit evolved in the 1960s, a natural byproduct of the continued innovation of manmade clothing fibers in an increasingly informal world where sports continued to grow as a cultural influence. With more than 40 years of experience making reputable athletic shoes, Adidas began expanding its offerings from the ground up when it debuted a tracksuit designed in collaboration with German soccer star Franz Beckenbauer in 1967. Like their famous shoes, the tracksuit was bedecked with Adidas’ signature triple stripes, a simple but iconic brand mark that had been reportedly been purchased from the Finnish sports brand Karhu Sports a decade earlier for 1,600 euros and two bottles of whiskey… “good whiskey” as Karhu is sure to elaborate on their site, as you’d hate to imagine such a recognizable mark being traded for a few fifths of Bankers Club.

For better or worse, Goodfellas continues the inextricable connection between Adidas and whisky.

For better or worse, Goodfellas continues the inextricable connection between Adidas and whisky.

In just a few short years, the tracksuit had migrated from the professional soccer field to the suburban park as gym membership was on the rise. The crossroads of fitness culture and fashion culture in the early 1970s meant everyday Joes, Jills, and Giovannis needed to look their sharpest while embracing the hottest fads like recreational jogging. Of course, one couldn’t wear their polyester leisure suits for sweating off the pounds by day; those were strictly reserved for sweating your way through the hustle by night.

In 1972, Adidas debuted its new “Trefoil” logo in time for the Olympic Games in Munich, aware that their apparel would be on full display as the eyes of the world would turn to Adidas’ home country hosting the competition. The following year, tracksuits had reached the height of pop culture royalty when no less than Elvis Presley was photographed wearing a half-zipped track jacket and matching pants while leaving his divorce proceedings that October. In addition to his well-known penchant for fried peanut butter, banana, and bacon sandwiches, Presley wearing his tracksuit with the decidedly non-athletic white open-neck shirt and horsebit loafers indicated that the King had picked out his tracksuit solely for comfort rather than competition.

This philosophy was further established when the velour tracksuit emerged by the end of the Nixon era. This plush, comfortable fabric would hardly be effective workout gear, illustrating that it took less for a decade for the tracksuit to evolve from utilitarian sportswear to the sort of civilian leisure-wear that would be popularized by the hardly active gangsters on The Sopranos. (More performance-based nylon “shell suits” would have their moment again toward the end of the ’80s.)

Henry’s navy blue Adidas tracksuit is made from tricot polyester, consisting of a zip-up jacket with a “bomber-style” short ribbed-knit collar in addition to the ribbed cuffs and hem. The jacket has side pockets at hand level, which Henry uses to covertly stash his pills when going out for “a walk in the park”. The jacket’s raglan sleeves are detailed with Adidas’ signature triple stripe in white, extending from the neck to each cuff. If Henry were standing with his arms at his sides, the stripes would appear to continue down the side of each pant leg. The elastic-waisted track pants have slanted-entry pockets along the sides.

Adidas’ recognizable Trefoil logo, still relatively new at the time of Henry’s prison sentence, is embroidered onto the left chest of the jacket and the left thigh of the pants, just in front of the pocket opening.

Henry takes stock of his latest contraband. Note the details of his Adidas track jacket, including the embroidered Trefoil logo over the left breast.

Henry takes stock of his latest contraband. Note the details of his Adidas track jacket, including the embroidered Trefoil logo over the left breast.

As of October 2020, Adidas continues to offer two classic navy warm-up suits not unlike Henry wore in prison:

  • The 3 Stripes Track Suit can be found in the same navy blue color, made of 100% recycled polyester tricot and correctly detailed from the iconic three-stripe design stretching down the sides from the jacket’s ribbed collar to the bottom of the pants. The only major difference is the logo; instead of the Trefoil, the jacket and pants are marked solely with “adidas” in a retro-inspired font. (Available via Adidas and Amazon)
  • The SST Track Suit is the piece to get if you value the Trefoil logo over screen-correctness. Made from a sporty recycled polyester and cotton interlock blend, the SST refreshes a design that debuted on tennis courts in 1979, similar to Henry’s tracksuit but with white piping along the raglan sleeve seams. (Available via Adidas, separated by jacket and pants).”

Based on their mixed leather uppers with “T-toe” overlay and eight eyelets for the flat white laces, I deduced that Henry’s white sneakers are the Adidas Country running shoes, “first released in the 1970s as a durable cross-country runner” according to Crisp Culture. Adidas reissued these sneakers in 2015, and they’re still available five years later from Adidas and Amazon.

With their black triple stripes on the sides, the colorway of Henry’s Adidas sneakers provide a unique visual contrast against the tracksuit itself. Henry wears them with white ribbed crew socks, a functional while considerably unfashionable choice… though not quite as unfashionable as his bunkmate Vinnie’s choice to wear Adidas shower slides with socks.

While we can applaud Henry for appropriately sneakin' around in sneakers, his trafficking in illegal drugs—while already in prison—may not be the best look for this aspiring Adidas brand ambassador.

While we can applaud Henry for appropriately sneakin’ around in sneakers, his trafficking in illegal drugs—while already in prison—may not be the best look for this aspiring Adidas brand ambassador.

Under his track jacket, Henry wears one of the blue mesh tank tops he had worn during his pre-prison civilian life, most notably seen when trying to disguise the smell emanating from his trunk after moving Billy Batts’ remains.

Henry also wears his usual gold cross necklace as well as his gold wedding ring, evidently the only personal effects he was allowed to keep and continue to wear behind bars.

GOODFELLAS

In one concession to life in the big house, Henry evidently had to hand over his gold luxury watch, though his replacement piece—a plain steel wristwatch with a round white dial on a black leather strap—is hardly an eyesore.

We most prominently see the watch when Henry’s family visits. For this scene, among the general population, Henry wears the same khaki uniform and drab dark blue T-shirt as the rest of the inmates, not unlike the outfit he describes himself as having worn in Nicholas Pileggi’s Wiseguy.

As Henry recalled, “I was wearing tan Army fatigues I’d gotten at West Street when I signed myself in.” In On the Run: A Mafia Childhood, co-authored by Henry’s children Gregg and Gina Hill, Gregg elaborated that “he wore beige trousers and a short-sleeved shirt that showed off the tattoo on his left arm. It was from the 82nd Airborne, my father’s one stint in legitimate life, a stretch in the Army.”

Henry suffers the wrath of an understandably upset Karen, who was none too pleased to see Janice Rossi's name on the prison visit log next to such illustrious visitors as Anne Ballibusteros.

Henry suffers the wrath of an understandably upset Karen, who was none too pleased to see Janice Rossi’s name on the prison visit log next to such illustrious visitors as Anne Ballibusteros.

Dining Like a Wiseguy

In prison, dinner was always a big thing. We had a pasta course and then we had a meat or a fish. Paulie did the prep work; he was doing a year for contempt and he had this wonderful system for doing the garlic. He used a razor, and he used to slice it so thin that it used to liquify in the pan with just a little oil. It’s a very good system.

Paulie carefully works his system for slicing garlic.

Paulie carefully works his system for slicing garlic.

“Vinnie was in charge of the tomato sauce,” continues Henry, introducing us to a bespectacled octogenarian played by Charles Scorsese—Martin’s father—who proudly outlines his process: “we got three kinds of meat in the meatballs; we got, uh, veal, beef, and pork.” Consensus among the wiseguys is that the pork adds all the needed flavor.

How very telling that Martin Scorsese cast both of his parents in two of Goodfellas‘ most prominent food-related scenes, as his mother Catherine played Tommy’s mother who—as most children of Italian mothers can relate—can’t help but to welcome her son home with a full breakfast, despite the late hour and the blood on his friend’s dented shoes.

“I felt he used too many onions, but it was still a very good sauce,” recalls Henry, who doesn’t seem alone in his criticism…

Paulie: Vinnie. Don’t put too many onions in the sauce.
Vinnie: I didn’t put too much onions, uh, Paul. I put ‘tree small onions, that’s all I did.
Johnny Dio: Three onions? How many cans of tomatoes ya put in there?
Vinnie: I put two cans, two big cans-
Johnny Dio: Ya don’t need ‘tree onions!

The silk-robed Johnny Dio (Frank Pellegrino) takes responsibility for the meat, cooking on pans to make up for the lack of a broiler in their quarters. “It used to smell up the joint something awful, and the hacks used to die… but he still cooked a great steak,” Henry shares. You just have to be comfortable with Johnny commenting on what your particular steak says about you. “Hm, medium rare… an aristocrat,” he snarls with a cigar clenched in his teeth while cooking Vinnie’s order. The broiling was likely done on one of the stoves that the real Paul Vario would wire for Lewisburg inmates from smuggled-in hot plate elements as outlined in Pileggi’s book Wiseguy.

As the junior cellmate, Henry is tasked with collecting the necessary ingredients for taking dinner to the next level, picking up anything that doesn’t come in their chilled deliveries of steak and lobsters, such as fresh bread, peppers and onions (ostensibly for Vinnie’s sauce), salami, proscuitto, “a lot of cheese”, as well as the spirited contraband of red wine, white wine, and Scotch. (For those who like to know, the Scotch is obviously J&B Rare and the wine is Bolla.) To this latest development, Paulie declares: “Now we could eat!”

Mangia!

Mangia!

While I’m not culinarily inclined myself (yet), John Gilpatrick took the time to adapt Catherine Scorsese’s sauce recipe—with a few tips from Vinnie—for the readers of Men’s Health, which you can find here.

Ingredients:
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 lb. pork sausage links
  • 1 medium onion, chopped small
  • 5 large garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
  • 6 oz. can tomato paste
  • 2 28-oz. cans Italian-style tomatoes, strained through a sieve to remove seeds
  • Salt and cayenne pepper, to taste
  • 1 lb. ground mixture of veal, beef, and pork
  • 1 egg
  • ¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano, plus additional for serving
  • 1 tbsp chopped Italian parsley
  • Bread crumbs
How to make it:
  1. In a large pot over medium, heat the olive oil. Add the sausage and brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer the sausage to a plate lined with paper towels. Add the onion and garlic to the same pot and sauté until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste, three paste cans of water, and the strained tomatoes. Adjust the heat to medium-low, add the salt, red pepper, and reserved pork. Simmer, stirring occasionally.
  2. As the sauce simmers, make the meatballs: In a large bowl, using your hands, combine the ground meat mixture, egg, cheese, parsley, and 2 Tbsp of the simmering tomato sauce. If the mixture is still loose, add bread crumbs until everything sticks together. Roll them into egg-size balls and place them directly in the simmering sauce. Cook until the meatballs float, about 45 minutes/hour.
  3. Using a slotted spoon, remove the sausage and meatballs. Serve the sauce over pasta, with the meats on top or on the side. Makes 6 servings.
Recipe by John Gilpatrick for Men's Health.

How to Get the Look

Ray Liotta as Henry Hill in Goodfellas (1990)

Ray Liotta as Henry Hill in Goodfellas (1990)

While on “Mafia row” in Lewisburg federal prison, Henry Hill wears a navy Adidas tracksuit and white Adidas sneakers that illustrate his athletic youthfulness in relation to the three older gangsters in his shared living space. Polyester warm-up suits like this had indeed dawned outside the gym during the mid-1970s when jogging was the latest fad, setting a new standard for active-wear as acceptable casual attire that would only be further popularized two decades later as the gangsters of The Sopranos lounged in colorful silk tracksuits.

  • Navy blue “tricot” polyester Adidas tracksuit:
    • Zip-up track jacket with short ribbed-knit collar, raglan sleeves (with white triple stripe), white-embroidered “Trefoil” breast logo, side pockets, and ribbed cuffs and hem
    • Elastic-waisted “triple stripe” track pants with slanted-entry front pockets and white-embroidered “Trefoil” thigh logo
  • Blue mesh tank top
  • Adidas Country sneakers in white mixed leather with T-toe overlay, 8-eyelet lacing, black triple-stripe sides, and “gum” rubber outsoles
  • White crew socks
  • Gold cross necklace
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Plain steel wristwatch with round white dial on black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie… and let me know if you’ll be celebrating International Tracksuit Day in a few weeks on November 7. (Seriously!)

Sources

To learn more about the history of the tracksuit and the roles of the brands cited above, please read more from the following sources I found to be particularly helpful while researching this post:

  • “adidas – History” (Adidas)
  • “adidas Originals Country OG” (Crisp Culture)
  • “A Brief History of the Tracksuit” by Gregory Babcock (Complex)
  • “The Enduring Appeal of the Tracksuit” by Rocky Li (Grailed)
  • “Three Stripes and Karhu” (Karhu Sports)
  • “A Brief History of the Tracksuit” by Chris Elvidge (Mr Porter)
  • “The Glorious History of the Tracksuit” by Rich Kunkel (Sweatsedo)

The post Goodfellas: Henry’s Adidas Tracksuit in Prison appeared first on BAMF Style.


Mad Men, 1970 Style – Sterling’s Sporty Turtleneck

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John Slattery as Roger Sterling on Mad Men (Episode 7.14: "Person to Person")

John Slattery as Roger Sterling on Mad Men (Episode 7.14: “Person to Person”)

Vitals

John Slattery as Roger Sterling, aging ad man

New York City, Fall 1970

Series: Mad Men
Episode: “Person to Person” (Episode 7.14)
Air Date: May 17, 2015
Director: Matthew Weiner
Creator: Matthew Weiner
Costume Designer: Janie Bryant

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Mad Men style typically evokes thoughts of men in sleek, ’60s-cut business suits, raising a glass of whiskey behind a veil of Lucky Strike smoke while juggling accounts and affairs. Of course, even a Madison Avenue man dresses down on the weekends.

By the series finale, set in the fall of 1970, we’ve already spent more than a decade of the show’s timeline with those in the Sterling Cooper orbit, watching them absorb everything from mergers and acquisitions to murders and assassinations. The world has significantly changed since the pre-Camelot days of the pilot episode and with it came slackened dress codes and a looser sense of decorum overall.

Roger Sterling’s world has changed considerably as well. A decade after his first of two heart attacks suffered from living like he was “on shore leave”, the ad man has been twice-divorced with scores of casual affairs and drug experiences. As the tumultuous 1960s come to a close, the quintessential accounts man is looking at a future without advertising, having met the [age-appropriate] love of his life, grown a mustache, and secretly fathered a son with his former lover, Joan Holloway (Christina Hendricks).

A decade after their affair had all but ended—the fruit of that “all but” in the form of five-year-old Kevin—Roger and Joan have reached a platonic detente as Roger acquaints himself with the product of his impulsive alleyway assignation with Joan. Following an afternoon together leading up to Halloween, Roger sits Joan down and declares that he’s revised his will to bequeath a portion of his estate to Kevin.

“That’s a pretty expensive way to mark your territory,” responds Joan. She has every right to be cynical, as Roger has spent much of that decade asking his beloved “Red” to return to his bed, but he surprises her again by announcing that he’s taking his romantic life in a new direction to spend the September of his years in hedonistic glory with Marie Calvet (Julia Ormond), the fiery French-Canadian mother-in-law of their colleague Don Draper.

“That’s spectacular,” a reassured Joan laughs. “What a mess!”

What’d He Wear?

Roger squires Joan and Kevin around Manhattan in a fall-friendly gun club check sport jacket and turtleneck, a fashionably contemporary look in an era where Steve McQueen’s rollnecked eponymous character in Bullitt (1968) was epitomizing cool.

As Alan Flusser defines it in Dressing the Man, the Scottish-originating gun club check consists of a warp and weft “arranged in three colors and woven in a two-up, two-down twill… an even check pattern with rows of alternating colors and, usually, a white background.” In this case, the soon-to-retire Roger wears a larger-scaled gun club check consisting of an alternating black and olive houndstooth pattern against a stone-colored ground.

Roger’s napped woolen single-breasted sports coat has broad notch lapels that, while not as broad as those popularized in the decade to follow, stretch closer to the armholes than to the center of the jacket and are finished with a sporty edge swelling that’s barely noticeable against the busy check. In addition to the welted breast pocket, the two-button jacket has hip pockets with wide flaps and a long single vent in the back, the respective width and length portending the menswear excesses to follow during the disco era. The three black woven leather buttons on each cuff match the two on the front of the jacket.

MAD MEN

As the name implies, gun club check originated with rural sports, though it had evolved in the century since its first adoption by an American shooting team to become an acceptable sport jacket pattern frequently worn in city and country alike.

Roger calls out the stone ground and earthy tones of his jacket by layering it over a beige turtleneck that appears to be constructed from a soft wool like merino or even cashmere with a narrowly ribbed rollneck.

MAD MEN

Roger balances his top half with a pair of charcoal gray trousers that correspond to the black check in his jacket’s gun club pattern. He had long abandoned the traditional lace-ups favored by his co-workers, even with business dress, so it should be no surprise that he again wears his usual black leather ankle boots, fastened with a short zipper that runs vertically up the inside of each boot.

I spy a pumpkin on Joan's table. Have you started decorating for Halloween yet?

I spy a pumpkin on Joan’s table. Have you started decorating for Halloween yet?

In nearly all of his appearances from the third season onward, Roger Sterling adorned his left pinky with a gold signet ring. Pinky rings were a common mid-century affectation for men of wealth and fame, so it’s no surprise that the smooth Gotham blue blood would pick out a pinky ring of his own.

Secured by a black leather bracelet to the the opposing wrist, Roger wears a Tudor Oyster Prince ref. 7967 that had been his daily wristwatch since the fifth season. Manufactured in 1959, Roger’s screen-worn, self-winding Oyster Prince has an elegant “tuxedo dial”, consisting of a round black center with silver non-numeric hour markers in the outer silver ring.

MAD MEN

As explained in the Christie’s listing from a December 2015 auction, this Tudor was one of several watches loaned to the series by vintage watch specialist Derek Dier, who worked with Mad Men property master Ellen Freund to dress the wrists of those in the Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce orbit.

How to Get the Look

John Slattery as Roger Sterling on Mad Men (Episode 7.14: "Person to Person")

John Slattery as Roger Sterling on Mad Men (Episode 7.14: “Person to Person”)

Despite the pattern’s origins in country sports, Roger Sterling effectively wears his gun club check for day out in the city, adding contemporary sensibilities by layering the jacket over a turtleneck that would have ensured his fashionably hip status in Nixon-era Manhattan.

  • Black-and-olive-on-stone gun club check wool single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with wide notch lapels, welted breast pocket, wide-flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and long single vent
  • Beige soft woolen turtleneck
  • Charcoal trousers with plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather side-zip ankle boots
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Tudor Oyster Prince stainless steel automatic watch with silver-ringed, black “tuxedo” dial on black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series… or just the final season, if you still haven’t caught up or need to complete your collection.

The Quote

I don’t want to put you in an awkward position when some man you used to work with leaves your son a small fortune.

The post Mad Men, 1970 Style – Sterling’s Sporty Turtleneck appeared first on BAMF Style.

Death Wish: Charles Bronson’s Herringbone Sport Jacket

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Charles Bronson as Paul Kersey in Death Wish (1974)

Charles Bronson as Paul Kersey in Death Wish (1974)

Vitals

Charles Bronson as Paul Kersey, architect and soon-to-be vigilante

Tucson, Arizona, and New York City, Winter 1974

Film: Death Wish
Release Date: July 24, 1974
Director: Michael Winner
Costume Designer: Joseph G. Aulisi

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

After a wave of films celebrating outlaws during the counterculture era of the late ’60s (i.e. Bonnie and Clyde and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid), an opposing wave crashed through American cinema at the start of the following decade, centered around a philosophy of vigilantism. The trend arguably kicked into high gear with Clint Eastwood’s renegade detective in Dirty Harry who despised the proverbial red tape preventing him from bringing deadly criminals to justice with his famed .44 Magnum. Within five years, Martin Scorsese had already evolved the focus from an endorsement of vigilantism into a cautionary tale with the release of Taxi Driver. Before the troubled Travis Bickle took it upon himself to “wash all this scum off the streets” of New York City, there was Paul Kersey.

Adapted from a novel by Brian Garfield, Death Wish‘s journey to the screen began after Charles Bronson completed a back-to-back trio of movies helmed by Michael Winner and was looking for another project where he could collaborate with the English director. “The best script I’ve got is… about a man whose wife and daughter are mugged and he goes out and shoots muggers,” said Winner, according to his autobiography Winner Takes All, to which Bronson replied: “I’d like to do that.” “The film?” “No… shoot muggers.”

Garfield himself was reportedly displeased with how his 1972 novel was reinterpreted for the screen that he followed it up with the follow-up novel Death Sentence, a more definite indictment of the dangerous consequences of extreme vigilantism as Paul faces a copycat killer.

Death Wish establishes Paul Kersey as a gentle-natured family man whose more liberal beliefs are chided by his conservative colleagues. Paul’s idyllic life is torn apart when a gang of violent rapists (including a young Jeff Goldblum) attacks the Kersey family, leaving Paul’s wife dead and his daughter hospitalized. A business trip to Tucson connects Paul with Ames Jainchill (Stuart Margolin), a cowboy-type developer who brings the New Yorker to his gun club. Impressed by Paul’s hidden talent with firearms, Ames slips a “going-away present” in the form of a nickel-plated Colt Police Positive into Paul’s checked suitcase—not exactly a welcome surprise in the modern age of airport security.

Returning home to find his daughter catatonic in the hospital and the freshly delivered photos from the Hawaiian vacation he had taken with his late wife, Paul may have just been pushed far enough over the edge to go full Bernie Goetz on the criminals of New York with the help of the newly acquired revolver he discovered in his suitcase.

What’d He Wear?

Paul Kersey is still dressed for a winter in Gotham when he arrives in Tucson on what would be an extended business trip with the gregarious Ames Jainchill hosting his Arizona adventures.

“You look like a New Yorker!” Ames exclaims when Paul asks how he recognized him so quickly at the airport, and indeed Ames looks considerably better-suited for the southwest in his warm-toned Western suit and Stetson than Paul does in his cool-toned sports coat and tie, anchored by a gray-and-black herringbone tweed single-breasted jacket.

A relatively timeless style in itself, the sport jacket concedes to the fashions of the decade only in the extended breadth of the notch lapels, which extend out to only an inch shy of each armhole and have narrower notches approaching the cran necker lapel, also known as the “Parisian” or “fish mouth” lapel due to its distinctive shape. The lapels roll to a two-button front with black sew-through buttons similar to the three buttons adorning each cuff. The breast pocket is welted with a patch pocket on each hip, and there is a single vent in the back.

The beginning of a fateful friendship: Ames Jainchill meets Paul Kersey at the Tucson airport, their clothing immediately illustrating the difference in attire and attitude between the cowboy and the city-dweller.

Costume designer Joesph G. Aulisi evidently liked the idea of his New York-dwelling everyday heroes sporting gray herringbone tweed sports coats and blue shirts as he would dress down this same sartorial approach with a jumper, woolen tie, and jeans the following year in Three Days of the Condor (1975).

For his arrival, Paul wears a sky blue shirt, likely made in a then-fashionable cotton and polyester blend, with a large point collar, plain front, and two-button cuffs. His tie is block-striped in three shades of blue, balanced in the traditionally American “downhill” stripe direction.

This tie would prove its versatility later during the trip when Paul wears it with a much darker indigo-tinted blue shirt—likely also polyester or a poly-blend—with a similarly large point collar, front placket, flapped breast pocket, and button cuffs.

Here, Paul illustrates the virtues of packing light: by merely swapping out his shirt (arguably the most essential piece of an outfit to change for freshness) and wearing the same jacket, trousers, and tie, Paul easily transforms a daytime business look to a more sporting look appropriate for his evening excursion to Ames’ shooting range.

Death Wish (1974)

For his TWA flight home, Paul dresses again in the herringbone sports coat and sky blue shirt, this time paired with the red paisley silk tie he had worn with his charcoal chalkstripe flannel office suit the day his family was attacked. Though red remains the prevailing color, the busy paisley pattern also includes tones of brick, burgundy, beige, slate, and navy blue.

Ames sees Paul off at the Tucson airport.

Paul wears dark navy flat front trousers that appear to be worn with a belt, unlike his beltless suit trousers. In this case, it’s a dark belt with a gold-toned single-prong buckle, likely black leather to coordinate with his shoes. The tops of Paul’s square-toed shoes are covered by his gently flared trouser bottoms, but the raised heels and the prevailing styles of the time suggest that they may be some form of ankle boots.

Death Wish (1974)

Once Paul returns to snowy New York City, he re-dons the long overcoat he had carried off the plane in Arizona. This charcoal wool knee-length coat has wide notch lapels that roll to a three-button covered fly front as well as a welted breast pocket and straight side pockets.

Back in New York, Paul finds himself needing the extra layer of his wool overcoat.

When Paul returns home only to be grimly greeted by the vacation photos his wife didn’t live to see, he puts on a pair of oversized tortoise-framed rectangular reading glasses to flip through them.

Death Wish (1974)

Modern action movies often prominently feature our hero’s wristwatch, and even the 2018 remake of Death Wish depicted Panerai fan Bruce Willis conspicuously wearing not one but two Panerai Radiomir watches.

When Bronson originated the role of Paul Kersey, horological product placement wasn’t as prevalent as it would be forty-four years later though Bronson’s earlier collaboration with director Michael Winner, The Mechanic (1972), at one point nearly filled the frame with a close-up of his character’s non-date Rolex Submariner.

A straitlaced architect at the start of Death Wish, Paul Kersey has no need for the latest dive watch nor anything more adventurous than a plain stainless steel dress watch with a round silver dial, secured to his left wrist on a flat steel “rice grain” bracelet.

Paul fires through a cylinder of one of Ames’ classic American six-shooters.

Herringbone is evidently one of Paul Kersey’s favorite weaves to wear, as he would later don a more beige-toned herringbone tweed raglan coat while doling out his version of justice across New York City.

The Guns

“Hot damn, what a guest to bring to a gun club!” Ames laughs as Paul recalls his time as a conscientious objector during his Korean War service more than 20 years prior. “Hell, a gun is just a tool, like a hammer or an axe,” Ames explains, echoing Alan Ladd’s famous statement from Shane.

Ames pulls a duo of 19th century handguns for Paul to fire, beginning with a revolver he identifies as an 1842 percussion pistol but has been recognized on IMFDB as the distinctive Remington 1858 New Army revolver. “Goddamn! Paul, ya hit damn center,” exclaims an impressed Ames after Paul’s first shot is, indeed, a bullseye.

“Mind if I try this hog-leg Colt?” Paul asks, picking up and checking a Cavalry-length Single Action Army, which Ames explains had belonged to a gunfighter named Candy Dan in 1890. “You’re a peculiar conscientious objector,” observes an excited Ames.

“I do know something about guns, Ames, I grew up with them,” responds Paul. “All kinds of guns.”

Paul takes aim with Aimes’ “hog-leg Colt” Single Action Army, a classic symbol of the Wild West that gained fame as the notorious “Peacemaker”.

When Paul returns to New York, he discovers that the “going-away present” slipped in his bag by Ames was a nickel-plated Colt Police Positive double-action revolver with a four-inch barrel and pearl grips. Considering Death Wish‘s role in establishing Bronson’s reputation as an action star, the .32-caliber revolver looks surprisingly small in his hands, particularly when compared to the massive .475 Wildey Magnum handgun (and rocket launcher) he would later use in Death Wish III.

The smaller-framed Police Positive would be realistic armament for a man carrying a concealed weapon in New York City, particularly given the city’s restrictive firearm laws where Paul would need to be especially cautious to avoid printing. Also, while Paul demonstrates considerable ability on the range, the lighter caliber would allow for less recoil and improved accuracy for someone who hasn’t regularly handled or fired a weapon in decades.

Looking over the Police Positive in the room he once shared with now-deceased wife and fueled by the photos reminding him of their last happy memories together, Paul Kersey the vigilante is born.

Colt introduced the Police Positive in 1907, superseding the earlier New Police revolvers aimed for the law enforcement market. Double-action revolvers with swing-out cylinders were still a relatively new milestone in the world of firearms and Colt was continuing to innovate its products, improving upon the New Police design with the addition of a “positive lock” internal hammer block safety that—along with its intended market—gave the Colt Police Positive its name.

The Police Positive was available in a range of smaller revolver calibers, most prominently .32 Long Colt as likely used in Paul Kersey’s revolver though .32 S&W Long and .38 S&W “Short” models were also available. In 1908, Colt introduced the somewhat stronger-framed Police Positive Special designed to fire longer and more powerful cartridges like the .32-20 Winchester round and the .38 Special, the latter of which would become the preeminent law enforcement cartridge for most of the 20th century.

How to Get the Look

Charles Bronson as Paul Kersey in Death Wish (1974)

Charles Bronson as Paul Kersey in Death Wish (1974)

[PAUL]

  • Gray-and-black herringbone tweed single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with wide notch lapels, welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single vent
  • Blue polyester shirt with long point collar and button cuffs
  • Blue tri-toned “downhill” block-striped tie
  • Navy flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with gold-toned squared single-prong buckle
  • Black leather square-toed ankle boots with raised heels
  • Charcoal wool knee-length single-breasted overcoat with notch lapels, 3-button covered fly front, welted breast pocket, and straight hip pockets
  • Tortoise rectangular-framed oversized reading glasses
  • Stainless steel wristwatch with round silver dial on steel “rice grain” bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

Despite the film receiving criticism from Garfield and prominent critics, Bronson and company would continue with four more Death Wish sequels, each increasing in their scope of Paul’s one-man anti-crime vendetta at the cost of quality until Death Wish V: The Face of Death (1994), starring a 72-year-old Bronson in a dull “action thriller” that maintains its well-deserved 0% on Rotten Tomatoes.

The post Death Wish: Charles Bronson’s Herringbone Sport Jacket appeared first on BAMF Style.

Death on the Nile: Peter Ustinov’s Tropical Norfolk Suit as Poirot

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Peter Ustinov as Hercule Poirot in Death on the Nile (1978)

Peter Ustinov as Hercule Poirot in Death on the Nile (1978)

Vitals

Peter Ustinov as Hercule Poirot, eccentric Belgian detective

Egypt, September 1937

Film: Death on the Nile
Release Date: September 29, 1978
Director: John Guillermin
Costume Designer: Anthony Powell

Background

In his adaptation of perhaps the best-known Hercule Poirot mystery from Agatha Christie’s prolific canon, Kenneth Branagh all but confirmed at the end of Murder on the Orient Express that his follow-up film would find the fussy Belgian detective solving a murder “right on the bloody Nile!”

Indeed, just weeks after Murder on the Orient Express was released in November 2017, it was officially announced that Death on the Nile would be entering production as the third major adaptation of Christie’s 1937 novel. Even after the intended December 2019 release was postponed to October 9, 2020, Death on the Nile joined the ranks of films like The Many Saints of NewarkNo Time to Die, and Tenet whose release dates were delayed by the coronavirus pandemic. The October date was optimistically shifted forward two weeks to October 23 (today!) before the perhaps more realistic release date of December 18 was announced.

Of course, Christie fans looking to get their Nile fix have long had a very watchable solution available with the 1978 adaptation of Death on the Nile, the first of six films to star two-time Academy Award winner Peter Ustinov as the detail-oriented detective.

Like Branagh would a generation later, John Braborne and Richard B. Goodwin had sought to follow the success of their massively successful—though reluctantly authorized—1974 adaptation of Murder on the Orient Express and selected Christie’s novel Death on the Nile for its similar potential to feature a star-studded cast in an exotic locale. As Albert Finney wasn’t available to reappear as Poirot, Braborne and Goodwin went in a different direction by casting Ustinov, who would become the definitive Poirot for the next decade until David Suchet would begin his tenure in the title role of ITV’s Agatha Christie’s Poirot.

Peter Ustinov, Maggie Smith, and David Niven model classic menswear while taking a break on location filming Death on the Nile.

Joining Ustinov in the cast were luminaries including Jane Birkin, Bette Davis, George Kennedy, Angela Lansbury, David Niven, and Maggie Smith, establishing an unofficial “troupe” as Birkin and Smith would reappear with Ustinov in the follow-up Poirot film, Evil Under the Sun (1982), where they would be joined by Murder on the Orient Express veterans Colin Blakely and Denis Quilley.

The fatal love triangle at the heart of Death on the Nile centers around glamorous but aloof heiress Linnet Ridgeway (Lois Chiles) and her newlywed husband Simon Doyle (Simon MacCorkindale), whom she seemingly seduced from her former best friend Jacqueline de Bellefort (Mia Farrow), who is now stalking them across their honeymoon in Egypt.

Despite some complications due to the setting, director John Guillerman later recalled that the cast’s professionalism made the production considerably enjoyable:

The more experienced people created a very generous atmosphere. They were not impatient at all… During the breaks, the cast would often sit to one side engaged in terrific conversation. There was Ustinov’s great wit and Niven’s dry humor. Jack Warden is a very funny man and Mia Farrow is a very funny woman. This was a bunch of people who could relax.

Though Death on the Nile premiered in New York on September 29, 1978, it was weeks later on October 23, 1978—42 years ago today—when Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Philip, and Earl Mountbatten attended a Royal Charity Premiere showing at the ABC Shaftesbury Avenue in London.

What’d He Wear?

Fans who have seen Death on the Nile would certainly not be surprised to learn that Anthony Powell’s costume design received both an Academy Award and a BAFTA Award during those respective ceremonies in the spring of 1979. I was recently honored to work with Amanda Hallay, host of the marvelous Youtube channel The Ultimate Fashion History, as she explored the glamorous costumes Powell designed for Death on the Nile in an August 2020 episode of her series. In fact, it was my communication with Ms. Hallay that inspired me to take a look at the dignified detective at the center of it all: Peter Ustinov’s inaugural appearance as Hercule Poirot.

Standing nearly a foot taller than Agatha Christie’s descriptions of the literary Poirot, the 6-foot-tall Ustinov with his significant heft was already a more imposing presence than the “strange little man,” as Christie—or her surrogate, Arthur Hastings—often dismissed the meticulous sleuth in her writings. Despite the difference in stature, both Ustinov’s Poirot and Christie’s literary creation share an approach to dressing that, as she described in Murder on the Orient Express, was “neat, spruce, and dandified as ever.”

The idea of Poirot vacationing in off-white aligns with Christie’s descriptions, as she outfits the Belgian detective in white duck suits while ostensible on holiday in both Evil Under the Sun and in The Mystery of the Blue Train. Even Death on the Nile includes moments along the Karnak‘s passage up the Nile where Christie pointedly describes Poirot’s “white silk suit, carefully pressed, and a panama hat,” and later, at Ez-Sebûa, his “white suit, pink shirt, [and] large black bow tie.”

When we get our first glimpse of Ustinov’s Poirot, he’s in repose near the famous pyramids and the Great Sphinx of Giza, clad in a warm-weather variation of the traditional Norfolk sports suit, updated for tropical travel in a light and luxurious summer-weight suiting.

Peter Ustinov in Death on the Nile (1978)

Poirot’s adventurous creamy suit nearly camouflages him among the ancient Egyptian wonders around him.

For hot days under the Egyptian sun, Ustinov’s Poirot is enveloped in cream summer-weight silk, possibly a linen and silk blend as suggested by the subtle slubbing on the cloth, which shines under certain light. A reprint of one of Anthony Powell’s costume sketches shared on Twitter by Emma Fraser (@frazbelina) suggests that Powell had envisioned “cream silk tussore dyed to the deepest cream of old tussore” for Poirot’s similarly colored lounge suit that he would wear while carrying out his investigation aboard the Karnak. Assuming that Powell was able to execute his vision, it’s reasonable to assume that the meticulous detective would have had this sportier traveling suit made from the same tussar silk cloth as his dressier three-piece lounge suit.

The jacket is cut like a Norfolk jacket, traditionally a heavy tweed garment that Alan Flusser wrote in Dressing the Man could be “considered the first sport jacket,” often characterized by front and back pleats, flapped patch pockets, and a full belt. Poirot’s jacket lacks the pleats, no doubt to avoid the weight that would come with the extra fabric, though it does feature the full self-belt with a front strap that buttons against the rest of the belt on the right and left sides for a symmetrical presentation that would no doubt appeal to Poirot’s sense of order.

David Niven and Peter Ustinov in Death on the Nile (1978)

While Colonel Race (David Niven) looks timelessly stylish and trim in his navy double-breasted blazer, Poirot looks every bit the eccentric character of his reputation.

Poirot’s jacket has short notch lapels that roll to the top of four covered buttons up the high-fastening front, with the self-belt covering the second button from the bottom. He wears a lapel watch fastened via a gold chain-link that connects to a long tack pushed through the front of the buttonhole; the watch itself is carried in the patch pocket over the left breast, which closes through a single button. The large patch pockets on the hips also close with a single-button flap. Like the four buttons on the front and the two on the belt, these buttons to close the pockets are covered in the same fabric from which the rest of the suit was made.

The soft shoulders are roped at the sleeveheads with a bump not unlike the con rollino shoulder associated with Italian tailoring. Each sleeve are finished with a gauntlet, fully sewn to the rest of the sleeve. Unlike traditional suit jackets, the cuffs are non-vented with no buttons—vestigial or functioning. Per the Norfolk jacket’s sporting origins, the back of the Poirot’s jacket has an inverted box pleat that would allow him a greater range of arm movement. The pleat extends down the center from the horizontal shoulder yoke down to the belt; a single vent extends down from the belt to the bottom.

Death on the Nile (1978)

The cream Norfolk-inspired jacket is worn with matching trousers, though the full square-cut lower quarters of the buttoned-up jacket prevent the audience from seeing more of them. A man of Ustinov’s size would have certainly benefited from the ample fabric added by trouser pleats, but what we see on screen—and even in behind-the-scenes footage and photography‚ isn’t enough to properly discern whether or not these were pleated.

The trouser bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs) that break high over his spat boots. This unique footwear perfectly speaks to Poirot’s sense of old-fashioned fussiness, an only somewhat more practical evolution of the formal spats that gentlemen had strapped over their shoes to protect them—specifically their insteps and ankles—from the elements, hence the moniker shortened from “spatter guards”. Spats had generally fallen out of fashion by the loosening menswear trends of the roaring ’20s, an obsolescence only hastened by the Great Depression.

In July 1936, the Associated Press in New York reported that “in recent years, well-dressed men have been discarding spats because they have become the property of the rank and file” (according to Wikipedia) and were being superseded by spat boots, which consisted of leather low shoes with an attached cloth high-top upper portion.

A man like Poirot who would want to differentiate himself from the “rank and file” (“Oh yes, I quite forgot your opinion of yourself” Colonel Race had uttered upon their reunion) would be an early adopter of this distinctive hybrid footwear. When not rigged in his evening black tie kit, Poirot wears taupe leather plain-toed shoes with attached tan cloth upper parts that envelope the ankles, covering the insteps and fastened up the sides with five spherical pearl buttons.

David Niven and Peter Ustinov in Death on the Nile (1978)

In his pith helmet and Norfolk-inspired suit, Poirot dresses for adventure even if he is considerably reluctant to actually partake in any adventure, instead leaving that to the “man of action” Colonel Race.

Unlike the fashionable straw boaters and Panama hats of his affluent fellow travelers, Poirot favors a more functional headgear while exploring Egyptian landmarks: the pith helmet, known alternately as a “safari helmet” or “sun helmet”, though I prefer the nomenclature that refers to its construction from sholapith plant matter.

As one might expect of a helmet, the pith helmet originated with military usage when Spanish soldiers and officers in the Philippines adapted it from the native salakot headgear. The Spanish salacot style spread to European militaries servicing in warmer colonies, such as in British India where the familiar “Colonial” pattern pith helmet emerged by the end of the 19th century. Though impractical and somewhat clumsy as field-issued military headgear, the pith helmet found an audience among European tourists and explorers traveling through these warmer climates who were able to shade themselves from the sun under the lightweight helmet’s wide brim.

Poirot’s sun helmet has a low, round crown and wide brim, similar in profile to the rigid American fiber helmet adopted by the U.S. Marine Corps in 1934 and still in limited service by various arms of the military. Unlike the covered helmets worn by many militaries, Poirot’s hat presents the natural khaki-shaded pith material, bound at the brim with fraying brown leather. The domed crown has a single-grommet ventilator hole on each side with a wide puggaree-effect around the base though this is supplemented by a thin brown band around the base.

Peter Ustinov and Simon MacCorkindale in Death on the Nile (1978)

In his straw Panama hat, cream double-breasted suit, and pinned-collar shirt, Simon Doyle (Simon MacCorkindale) presents a more youthful and fashionable version of Poirot’s tourist threads.

The years immediately following World War I saw a slackening in the rigidity of menswear, hastened by the self-folding shirt collar patented by Van Heusen in 1919. Men were quick to embrace this comfortable alternative to the austere detached collars that had been de rigueur during the Victorian and Edwardian eras for their formality and the fact that they could be starched to cardboard-like stiffness to present a clean appearance without needing to subject the rest of the shirt to the same laundering process. The acceptability of attached-collar shirts as well as innovations in the ease, efficiency, and expense of washing them rendered detachable collars obsolete for all but the more formal evening dress codes by the end of the roaring ’20s and the onset of the Great Depression.

As part of his outmoded sartorial sensibilities, Poirot wears crisp white wing collars fastened to all of his shirts, regardless of situation or time of day. In Death on the Nile, Ustinov consistently wears the tabs of his wing collar folded over the front his bow ties rather than behind them. While some are more inclined to draw a hard line in the sand regarding the correct way to wear a wing collar with a bow tie—Alan Flusser, for one, commands in Dressing the Man that “the bow tie always sits in front of the wing collar’s wings”—there are others who allow more leniency based on historical record; others still advocate that it’s a non-issue as a proper wing collar should be so designed that the tabs would never interfere with the bow tie, which would be neatly presented under the tabs as opposed to in front or behind them.

Perhaps anticipating that some blogger forty years in the future would have too much time to argue this point, Anthony Powell chose to make this a non-issue in the follow-up Poirot mystery, Evil Under the Sun, where Ustinov’s wing collars are styled with considerably shorter tabs that are contently to rest atop and slightly behind his larger bow ties.

Peter Ustinov in Death on the Nile (1978)

Our first look at Hercule Poirot, processing the encounter he just overheard.

For this traveling kit’s first appearances, first at Giza and then touring Aswan, Poirot wears his white wing collar fastened to an all-white cotton shirt. While in respite near the pyramids, Poirot wears a scarlet red bow tie with a pattern of dense white polka dots organized in neat rows. He would later wear this bow tie with his cream-colored three-piece lounge suit while investigating Linnet’s murder aboard the Karnak.

After making the acquaintances of the newlywed Doyles and their jilted ex-pal Jackie, Poirot now wears a navy blue bow tie with somewhat larger and more spaced-apart white polka dots, arranged in alternating rows.

Peter Ustinov and Mia Farrow in Death on the Nile (1978)

While I hate to call out any defects in Anthony Powell’s marvelous (and rightly Oscar-winning) costume design, this angle of Poirot grabbing Jackie’s gun hand does seem to show the hook of a pre-tied tie behind the right bow… something that the fastidious Poirot would eschew.

This navy polka-dotted bow tie appears again for the denouement as Poirot bids farewell to the few who survived the Nile passage, this time worn with the striped shirt that he had sported with the three-piece lounge suit during his investigations. This white shirt is patterned with spaced-apart taupe stripes, each shadowed by a pale beige stripe to the right.

David Niven and Peter Ustinov in Death on the Nile (1978)

David Niven’s tie is patterned in the regimental stripe of the Royal Green Jackets, which had descended from the Rifle Brigade (The Prince Consort’s Own) that Niven had served with during World War II. Through his work with the Film Unit, Lieutenant Colonel Niven’s personal batman was a young private named… Peter Ustinov. The officer and his one-time batman were reunited on screen in Death on the Nile.

At the Temple of Karnak, Poirot wears a unique shirt and tie combination not seen elsewhere in the film. The pale blue cotton shirt is patterned with white accent stripes, bordered on each side by a darker blue shadow stripe. His bow tie, tucked behind the white wing collar as always, is taupe with a subtle pattern.

Peter Ustinov and George Kennedy in Death on the Nile (1978)

Poirot slyly suggests to Andrew Pennington (George Kennedy) that he’s aware of the gregarious attorney’s embezzlement… while unknowingly planting murderous plans in Pennington’s head.

All of Poirot’s cotton shirts have front plackets and double (French) cuffs made from the same shirting, typically fastened with a set of flat gold disc-style links. All of his bow ties are in the traditional butterfly or thistle shape.

On his left pinky, Poirot wears a gold signet ring that—as we see when he’s facing off against a cobra in his cabin—appears to be etched, likely with his initials “H.P.”

David Niven, Jack Warden, and Peter Ustinov in Death on the Nile (1978)

Poirot directs the excitable Dr. Bessner’s (Jack Warden) attention to the woman who may need his attention after a near-fatal accident at the Temple of Karnak.

In a nice touch of continuity within the Ustinov canon, Poirot would retain his similar sartorial approach while on holiday in Evil Under the Sun as Anthony Powell returned to provide costumes for that film, where Poirot even wears this same Norfolk-like summer jacket, worn with matching knickers as well as his full-length trousers. The jacket may have been made by Bermans & Nathans, who created at least one suit jacket from Ustinov’s wardrobe in Evil Under the Sun according to a Prop Store auction listing.

Peter Ustinov as Hercule Poirot in Death on the Nile (1978)

Peter Ustinov as Hercule Poirot in Death on the Nile (1978)

How to Get the Look

Traveling in the tropics warrants dressing for adventure, even if one plans on exercising no more than their “little gray cells”. For the eponymous Egyptian voyage in Death on the Nile, Peter Ustinov’s Hercule Poirot supplements his fussy everyday wear of wing collar, bow tie, and spat boots with the adventurous garb of a summer-weight Norfolk-style jacket and pith helmet.

  • Cream summer-weight silk single-breasted Norfolk-style jacket with short notch lapels, four covered buttons, button-through patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets (with button-down flaps), wide self-belt (with right and left side buttons), inverted box-pleated back, and single vent
  • Cream summer-weight silk trousers with turn-ups/cuffs
  • White or striped cotton shirt with front placket and self-double/French cuffs, with detachable wing collar
    • Gold mini-disc cuff links
  • Navy polka-dotted thistle-shaped bow tie
  • Taupe leather spat boots with tan cloth pearl-button uppers
  • Khaki pith helmet
  • Gold lapel watch on link chain with long end-tack
  • Gold signet ring

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and read Agatha Christie’s original novel!

The Quote

Do not allow evil in your heart… it will make a home there.

The post Death on the Nile: Peter Ustinov’s Tropical Norfolk Suit as Poirot appeared first on BAMF Style.

Brad Pitt’s Green Needlecord Shirt in World War Z

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Brad Pitt as Gerry Lane in World War Z (2013)

Brad Pitt as Gerry Lane in World War Z (2013)

Vitals

Brad Pitt as Gerry Lane, former United Nations investigator-turned-zombie fighter

Cardiff, Wales, Fall 2012

Film: World War Z
Release Date: June 21, 2013
Director: Marc Forster
Costume Designer: Mayes C. Rubeo

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

With the world under siege by a rapidly spreading virus, the need for a vaccine grows more desperate each day… and only Brad Pitt can save us.

Until that last line, you may have thought I was beginning an essay on life in 2020 (and who knows, maybe the star somehow will become a crucial figure in discovering a vaccine!) World War Z may be the perfect movie to watch during the Halloween season this year, tapping into this year’s zeitgiest of viruses and vaccines dominating headlines.

The final act of World War Z is set at a World Health Organization lab outside the Welsh capital, where ex-U.N. field agent Gerry Lane (Pitt) has just crash-landed with an IDF officer (Danielle Kertesz) with whom he had escaped from Jerusalem just as the city was being overrun by the zombies that are terrorizing the world. Only a skeleton crew of WHO researchers remain, eager to test Gerry’s theories after his firsthand experiences fighting and evading these viral zombies around the world.

Though a considerable departure from Max Brooks’ excellent source novel of the same name, World War Z was positively received as a suspenseful thriller with exciting action sequences and a more realistic approach to the fabled zombie apocalypse than previous entries in this oft-explored horror subgenre.

What’d He Wear?

Gerry Lane’s costume gradually evolves over the course of World War Z through three core outfits. In the opening scenes, Gerry is dressed in blue layers when he and his family first confront the virus at home in Philadelphia. Costume designer Mayes C. Rubeo told the Costume Designers Guild that her goal was to dress Gerry’s family in “non-gloomy colors to represent a sense of hope and their try for survival — without distracting from the action.” Once Gerry is recruited back into action, he’s dressed for duty in a more militaristic utility shirt and cargo pants with a shemagh scarf for the warm Mediterranean climate upon his arrival in Israel.

After crash-landing in Wales, Gerry dresses in a fresh shirt that he would wear through the end of World War Z. This dark forest green shirt is made from a thin-waled corduroy, also known as “needlecord” cotton, and remains a popular style with outfitters like Charles Tyrwhitt, Everlane, and even Amazon house brand Goodthreads offering similar shirts as of October 2020.

The button-down collar and open breast pocket indicate that this is certainly more of a civilian’s shirt than anything military-issued, though the green shade codes to the audience that Gerry is still in mission mode. The buttons fastening the collar to the body of the shirt as well as those up the plain “French placket” and on the barrel cuffs are all black sew-through plastic.

Brad Pitt in World War Z (2013)

Gerry Lane stares down a zombie inside the Cardiff lab.

Under the corduroy shirt, Gerry wears a faded charcoal cotton T-shirt with short “muscle” sleeves that can be easily rolled up for easy administration of a vaccine injected into his upper arm. The T-shirt’s crew neck slackens as though it had been stretched or pulled, revealing a tarnished sterling silver pendant stamped “FOREVER” on a thin silver necklace.

Brad Pitt in World War Z (2013)

While a comfortable corduroy shirt and that go-to broken-in T-shirt should be staples in any civilian’s closet, Gerry puts form considerably ahead of fashion for his baggy and bulky tactical trousers. Guided by the built-in knee pads, contributors at The RPF and EDC Forums have suggested than Pitt’s screen-worn trousers are the Crye Precision G3 Combat Pant™, “designed as a no-compromise assault uniform, these pants are aggressively cut for maximum mobility.” You can read more about these “combat-proven” cargo pants from Crye Precision.

If Pitt’s khaki cargo pants are the G3 model, they would be constructed to military specifications from “50/50 NYCO Ripstop”, the rugged cotton and nylon blend used for BDUs. These flat front pants have a total of ten pockets, starting with slanted hand pockets on the front, a pair of zip-fastened pockets on the back, large cargo pockets on the side of each thigh supplemented by slightly smaller inverted box-pleat cargo pockets on the front of each thigh, and finally a smaller cargo pocket positioned over each ankle. There is also a designated knife/light holder slot positioned above the highest set of cargo pockets on each side.

Brad Pitt and Daniella Kertesz in World War Z (2013)

Knowing that his whole body may be pressed into service to defend himself against the hungry zombies loitering in the corridors of the Cardiff lab, Gerry protects his outer limbs with makeshift pads wrapped with white duct tape, including below the built-in knee pads of his combat-ready cargo pants.

Gerry wears derby-laced plain-toe work boots in brown napped leather with heavy lugged light brown outsoles.

Brad Pitt in World War Z (2013)

Through all the combat and crashes, Gerry continues to wear his wedding band—which appears to be white gold—on the designated third finger of his left hand.

Brad Pitt in World War Z (2013)

Gerry also continues to wear his same watch, one of seven Terra Cielo Mare Orienteering PVD watches provided by the Italian family company for Pitt wear on screen, as costume designer Mayes C. Rubeo explains in her interview with Designed by Hollywood.

The Orienteering watch line was introduced in 2010 and “dedicated to the great explorers who have always needed an instrument to orient themselves on land and sea, even in adverse conditions,” according to the company’s site. The model worn by Pitt has a black PVD-treated titanium 44mm case, black dial, and a brown English leather 22mm-wide strap.

Brad Pitt in World War Z (2013)

Gerry pulls back his protective arm pad to check the time on his Terra Cielo Mare watch.

Under the closed cuff of his right shirt sleeve, Gerry likely still wears the two colorfully knotted “friendship bracelets” that were likely made for him by his daughters.

How to Get the Look

Brad Pitt as Gerry Lane in World War Z (2013)

Brad Pitt as Gerry Lane in World War Z (2013)

Gerry Lane may be a man on a mission, but he still dresses for casual comfort in his forest-shaded needlecord shirt layered over a T-shirt with cargo pants, a versatile and fall-friendly outfit perfect for a weekend of fighting zombies or just kicking back on the couch to watch Brad Pitt fight ’em for you.

  • Forest green thin-waled corduroy cotton long-sleeved shirt with button-down collar, plain front, breast pocket, and adjustable-button barrel cuffs
  • Charcoal faded cotton short-sleeve crew-neck T-shirt
  • Khaki cotton/nylon combat-ready cargo pants with ten pockets and built-in knee pads
  • Brown leather belt with squared steel single-prong buckle
  • Black leather plain-toe derby boots with dark brown outsoles and brown laces
  • Sterling silver “FOREVER” pendant on a thin silver necklace chain
  • Terra Cielo Mare Orienteering watch with black PVD-coated titanium case, black dial, and brown leather strap
  • Two colorful friendship bracelets
  • White gold wedding band

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. It has the personal distinction for me as the last movie I ever saw at the iconic Twin Hi-Way Drive-In theater outside of Pittsburgh, a place where my family often watched the latest releases when I was a kid.

The Quote

If you can fight, fight. Be prepared for anything. Our war has just begun.

The post Brad Pitt’s Green Needlecord Shirt in World War Z appeared first on BAMF Style.

Dracula A.D. 1972: Peter Cushing’s Striped Suit

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Peter Cushing as Lorrimer Van Helsing in Dracula A.D. 1972 (1972)

Peter Cushing as Lorrimer Van Helsing in Dracula A.D. 1972 (1972)

Vitals

Peter Cushing as Professor Lorrimer Van Helsing, occult researcher and descendant of the famous vampire hunter

London, Fall 1972… A.D. 1972, that is

Film: Dracula A.D. 1972
Release Date: September 28, 1972
Director: Alan Gibson
Wardrobe Supervisor: Rosemary Burrows

Background

Just days away from Halloween, today’s post responds to a request received earlier this year from BAMF Style reader Alan, who suggested the “extremely cheesy and, at times, ridiculous” Hammer production Dracula A.D. 1972, starring horror maestros and real-life pals Christopher Lee and Peter Cushing reprising their usual roles as Count Dracula and Van Helsing, respectively.

Despite its title, we’re not immersed immediately in the world of Ted Heath’s London as the opening is set in the wee hours of September 18, 1872, as vampire-hunter Lawrence Van Helsing succumbs to the fatal wounds sustained in felling his foe, the infamous Count Dracula.

A jet soaring across the sky to a funky disco beat transfers us from Gladstone-era England to the much-awaited A.D. 1972 promised by the title, where a still-swinging London is played out in vignettes photographed by cinematographer Dick Bush leading up to a free-lovin’ Friday night party in full swing, scored live by Stoneground. The hip revelers in attendance include Johnny (Christopher Neame), who looks eerily familiar to a figure we saw at Van Helsing’s grave, as well as Caroline Munro, five years shy of her role tempting Roger Moore’s James Bond in The Spy Who Loved Me. Sadly, Munro’s adventurous, outgoing Laura falls victim to Johnny’s black magic ritual that resurrects the long-dead Dracula… thus Munro meets her early death at the hands of a Bond villain, rather than 007 himself this time.

One of the sacrificed Laura’s friends was Jessica Van Helsing, whose grandfather Lorrimer was a descendant of—and a dead ringer for—the famous Lawrence, who gave his life to kill Count Dracula one hundred years to the day earlier. Seeking answers about Laura’s violent end, Scotland Yard enlists self-described “crackpot” Lorrimer Van Helsing, who becomes the front-line fighter against the reincarnated Dracula.

What’d He Wear?

The setting of Dracula A.D. 1972 allows for more contemporary wardrobe choices than are usually seen in the Hammer horror catalog, particularly when Victorian villains like Dracula are involved.

Pushing 60 by the time the film was produced, Peter Cushing dresses tastefully in layered menswear that transcends the trends of the early ’70s. When Alan suggested that I write about this movie, he suggested that I begin with his favorite outfit, “a navy suit that he wears with a burgundy waistcoat for a long day that starts with a meeting at Scotland Yard and ends with killing a vampire.”

In lieu of the old-fashioned cape favored by his 19th century forebear, Cushing’s modern-day Van Helsing wears a charcoal knee-length raincoat. The fly front closes over four large plastic buttons, each sewn to the body of the coat a few inches in from the edges, with the top button positioned about two inches down from the top and the lowest button positioned just below Cushing’s waist. The coat has a bal-type Prussian collar that Cushing wears flat, flapped hip pockets gently slanted toward the back, and a long single vent. The set-in sleeves are finished with plain cuffs not adorned with any straps, buttons, or other fasteners that could get in the way of vampire-killing.

Peter Cushing in Dracula A.D. 1972

The labels of Van Helsing’s raincoat and suit jacket can be briefly glimpsed as he puts on his coat in Inspector Murray’s (Michael Coles) office, flashing a white label with black and yellow text stitched against the coat’s burgundy rayon lining.

The coat’s label does not appear to match any era-used labels I’ve seen from the outerwear “usual suspects” like Aquascutum, Burberry, Hart Schaffner & Marx, Hickey-Freeman, or London Fog, but there may be some eagle-eyed BAMF Style readers who can identify Van Helsing’s coatmaker (and would earn special points for ID’ing his suit tailor as well!)

Peter Cushing in Dracula A.D. 1972

The wool suiting that Cushing wears in Inspector Murray’s office appears to be patterned with a subtle black stripe bordered by rust and yellow shadow stripes that fade back onto the dark navy ground.

Aside from a long single vented jacket (instead of double vents), this suit is otherwise tailored and styled to match the details of the taupe suit he wore in his introductory scene, consisting of a single-breasted, three-button jacket and matching flat front trousers finished with plain-hemmed bottoms. The trousers are held up by red suspenders (braces), briefly glimpsed as Murray’s team assists Van Helsing following his confrontation with Alucard (Christopher Neame).

Peter Cushing in Dracula A.D. 1972

After spending the first two thirds of Dracula A.D. 1972 in genteel, professorial bow ties, Van Helsing takes a more businesslike approach once the stakes gets sharper (if you’ll forgive the pun), wearing a navy blue necktie with thin stripe sets in yellow and light blue following the traditional British “uphill” direction.

Cushing wears a cornflower blue poplin shirt made either of cotton or a then-fashionable polyester blend. With its large point collar that occasionally refuses to be contained by the waistcoat’s neckline, the shirt may be one of the few pieces in Van Helsing’s wardrobe influenced by contemporary fashions. The front placket and the squared barrel cuffs are fastened with large clear plastic buttons.

Peter Cushing in Dracula A.D. 1972

Cushing’s burgundy flannel waistcoat (vest) may be more effectively described as “blood red” in the spirit of Dracula A.D. 1972. The single-breasted odd waistcoat has seven red plastic shank buttons with the lowest left undone over the notched bottom. The waistcoat is tailored to Cushing’s lean, 6′-tall frame with double sets of front darts and detailed with welted upper pockets and set-in hip pockets with shaped flaps. He carries his gold pocket watch with the gold chain worn “single Albert”-style through a small hole next to the third button of his waistcoat.

Peter Cushing in Dracula A.D. 1972

When anticipating action in the chilly London night, Van Helsing pulls on a pair of short brown suede gloves, the same as he would wear with his predominantly brown suede outfit when finally facing Dracula during the film’s conclusion.

Peter Cushing in Dracula A.D. 1972

Apropos his more businesslike outfit than usual, Van Helsing deviates from his usual brown suede ankle boots to wear what appears to be a pair of black calf cap-toe oxfords.

How to Get the Look

Peter Cushing as Lorrimer Van Helsing in Dracula A.D. 1972 (1972)

Peter Cushing as Lorrimer Van Helsing in Dracula A.D. 1972 (1972)

Peter Cushing dresses for Professor Van Helsing’s deadly business in the Hammer horror classic Dracula A.D. 1972, wearing a navy striped suit and tie with an appropriately blood red flannel waistcoat and supplemented with a charcoal raincoat to serve as the contemporary update of the vampire-killer’s traditional Victorian cape.

  • Dark navy subtly striped wool suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and long single vent
    • Flat front trousers with plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Burgundy flannel single-breasted 7-button waistcoat/vest with welted upper pockets, shaped-flap lower pockets, and notched bottom
  • Cornflower blue poplin shirt with large point collar, front placket, and 1-button squared barrel cuffs
  • Navy striped tie with thin yellow-and-blue “uphill” stripe sets
  • Red suspenders/braces
  • Black calf leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Charcoal knee-length raincoat with Prussian collar, four-button fly front, slanted flapped hip pockets, set-in sleeves (with plain cuffs), and long single vent
  • Brown suede gloves

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Silver bullets are impractical… and garlic is not 100% reliable.

The post Dracula A.D. 1972: Peter Cushing’s Striped Suit appeared first on BAMF Style.

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