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Targets: Boris Karloff in Tweed

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Boris Karloff as Byron Orlok in Targets (1968)

Boris Karloff as Byron Orlok in Targets (1968)

Vitals

Boris Karloff as Byron Orlok, aging horror actor

Los Angeles, Summer 1967

Film: Targets
Release Date: August 15, 1968
Director: Peter Bogdanovich
Production and Costume Design: Polly Platt

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

“Everybody’s dead… I feel like a dinosaur,” former horror icon Byron Orlok describes himself in a candid moment with Sammy Michaels (Peter Bogdanovich), an ambitious director and screenwriter played by Targets‘ own director and co-writer himself. Bogdanovich had written Orlok as a thinly disguised version of Boris Karloff, the elder statesman of horror cinema who was pushing 80 at the time of the film’s production. An embittered Byron shares with Sammy that his old-fashioned cinematic monsters—i.e. Frankenstein’s monster—are hardly the stuff to scare contemporary audiences as the local news horrifying enough with tales of senseless murder and random violence.

Set over the last two days of July 1967, Targets juxtaposes Orlok’s retirement with one of the perpetrators of that headline-grabbing violence: the seemingly banal Bobby Thompson (Tim O’Kelly). We meet Bobby as he’s adding to his growing collection of firearms, storing much of it in the trunk of his white Mustang. In a disturbed episode borrowing from contemporary accounts of real-life killers University of Texas tower shooter Charles Whitman and Highway 101 sniper Michael Clark, Bobby guns down his wife, his mother, and anyone getting in his way as he makes his way to the top of an oil tank and fires at freeway motorists at random, only the start of a day of mayhem.

The previous evening, Orlok watches “himself” in Howard Hawks’ 1931 crime drama The Criminal Code, ruminating on how his old-fashioned lurching monsters would have little impact against a public that has been overly saturated by stories of deranged violence at the hands of killers like Bobby. That said, Orlok proves he still has a few genuine scares left in him, startling a hungover Sammy—as well as himself—the next morning.

What’d He Wear?

Before he’s dressed for the drive-in event in his three-piece dinner suit, Byron Orlok spends his summer day in Los Angeles dressed appropriately for, well, a fall day anywhere else. “I guess I feel the cold a little more than I did,” Byron declares to a drunk Sammy later that night, perhaps explaining why he wears tweed, flannel, and knitwear in southern California in late July.

For his business appointment and subsequent cocktail, Orlok wears a brown barleycorn tweed jacket woven using brown and black wool to create a coolly muted dark brown appearance. The roll of the thinly welted notch lapels suggests a three-button front. The single-vented jacket has a welted breast pocket and straight side pockets, either jetted or worn with the flaps tucked into the pockets themselves.

Peter Bogdanovich, Nancy Hsueh, and Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

Orlok and his assistant Jenny (Nancy Hsueh) bid adieu to Sammy Michaels (Peter Bogdanovich).

Orlok’s mini-checked shirt is a smart choice with his dressed-down sports coat, though it appears to be a short-sleeved shirt which likely provides at least some seasonal comfort under his tweed jacket in the L.A. heat. The cotton shirt is checked in blue and yellow tattersall against a white ground with a button-down collar and front placket.

The dark gray woolen tie, appropriately slim for the era, provides textural coordination with the coarse wools in the rest of Orlok’s outfit while the gray color tonally coordinates with his jacket’s cooler shade of brown tweed.

Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

Orlok also keeps an off-white cotton handkerchief in his welted breast pocket that he slightly puffs up when taking a three-martini lunch meeting.

Coarse flannel trousers are an understandably popular pairing with tweed jackets and are often a smart-looking one, providing that the color or shade of the trousers contrast enough with the jacket. As with the tie, Orlok’s dark gray flannel trousers work with his cooler brown tweed jacket while providing enough of a color contrast to work.

Held up with suspenders as glimpsed below while he and Jenny are being chauffeured through the city, Orlok’s trousers have a square-ended extended waist tab with a hidden hook closure, elegant double forward-facing pleats, side pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms.

Nancy Hsueh and Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

Back in his hotel room, Orlok hangs up the jacket and changes into a cardigan over his tie… like Mr. Rogers but with more vodka and Scotch. He haphazardly buttons just two of the six buttons positioned up the ribbed edge of his sweater, likely made from a soft tan wool like cashmere or merino. The cardigan has set-in sleeves and patch pockets on the lower right and left sides.

Nancy Hsueh and Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

Mr. Orlok’s Neighborhood.

Orlok wears black leather cap-toe oxford shoes with black socks. On his left leg, he appears to wear a brace with metal extensions as the actor was famously bow-legged throughout his lifetime following a childhood bout of rickets. The condition was exacerbated by chronic back pain brought about while filming Frankenstein in 1931.

Peter Bogdanovich and Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

Sammy and Orlok each wake up with horrific hangovers after a night pairing Haig & Haig with Howard Hawks.

Subtly strapped to his left wrist on a dark leather strap, Orlok wears a plain gold dress watch with a round dial. The actor’s only other accessory is a pair of brown gradient-framed eyeglasses he’s wearing for the screening at the start of the film. These glasses are dark brown plastic over the arms and brow, fading to a colorless translucent frame around and under each lens.

Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

What to Imbibe

Following his decision to retire, Orlok asks Jenny to join him for a drink to celebrate his freedom. Once they arrive at their prearranged meeting, he hoists his Martini and toasts “to the future!”

Served in a coupe with a lemon garnish, Orlok’s cocktail mimics the direction that James Bond gives when ordering his inaugural Vesper in a “deep champagne goblet” in the 1953 novel Casino Royale, though Orlok’s martini is garnished with a rather inelegant wedge of lemon rather than the twisted peel traditionally used for martinis.

Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

Once Orlok returns to his hotel room, we get an even stronger sense of how the actor prefers his martinis, reaching into his personal liquor stock for the Smirnoff and Tribuno extra dry vermouth he needs to a continue imbibing his vodka martinis long into the night.

Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

In the days before the minibar, serious imbibers like Byron Orlok would bring their own expensive bars—and barware—with bourbon, vodka, and vermouth seen here with coupes, highball glasses, and a shaker to keep any overnight guests entertained and inebriated.

At some point, Orlok shifts from vodka to scotch, working his way through most of a bottle of Haig & Haig Five Star blended whisky with the help of Sammy Michaels. Haig may be best known for its dimpled, three-sided bottling—ordered by name in Breaking Bad—though other varieties include the rectangular-bottled Haig Club introduced in 2014 and the more venerable Haig Gold Label.

The Five Star variety was particularly common through the middle of the 20th century, though most surviving bottles I’ve seen have traditional labels rather than the collectable decanters with the variety printed directly on the glass bottle as featured in Targets.

Boris Karloff in Targets (1968)

In less celebratory moments, Orlok works his way through seemingly bottomless drams of Haig whisky.

How to Get the Look

Boris Karloff as Byron Orlok in Targets (1968)

Boris Karloff as Byron Orlok in Targets (1968)

Happy Hallo-tweed! Though Targets is set in the summer, Boris Karloff’s woolen tie with a tattersall shirt, flannel trousers, and tweed jacket (swapped out for a cardigan) illustrate a mastery of coordinating coarse textures for a fall-friendly sartorial aesthetic that transcends time more effectively than the monsters he played in the pre-Code era.

  • Dark brown barleycorn tweed single-breasted 3-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight hip pockets, and single vent
  • Tan soft wool cardigan sweater with 6-button front and hip-placed patch pockets
  • Brown-and-yellow-on-white tattersall checked cotton short-sleeved shirt with button-down collar and front placket
  • Dark gray wool tie
  • Dark gray flannel double forward-pleated trousers with extended waist tab, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Brown suspenders with beige hooks
  • Black calf leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Black socks
  • Brown gradient-frame eyeglasses
  • Gold dress watch with round, light-colored dial on dark leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. I’ve read it summed up best in this Tweet by @decervelage: “Pre-Halloween and pre-Texas Chainsaw, Targets is a meditation on the allure and deficiencies of classic horror films (personified by Boris Karloff in a wonderfully self-aware performance) in an age of human atrocity.”

The Quote

I have no more obligations, and it’s quite relaxing.

The post Targets: Boris Karloff in Tweed appeared first on BAMF Style.


George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn

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George Clooney as Seth Gecko in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

George Clooney as Seth Gecko in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Vitals

George Clooney as Seth Gecko, dangerous fugitive bank robber and “real mean motor scooter”

Texas to Mexico, Summer 1995

Film: From Dusk till Dawn
Release Date: January 17, 1996
Director: Robert Rodriguez
Costume Designer: Graciela Mazón

Background

Happy Halloween, BAMF Style readers! Over the last few years, I’ve received a few requests to explore George Clooney’s garb in From Dusk till Dawn, directed by Robert Rodriguez and penned by Quentin Tarantino from a story by Robert Kurtzman.

The action horror thriller marked a significant departure for Clooney— then popular as the charismatic pediatrician Doug Ross on ER, playing against type as the ruthless, Caesar-cut baddie terrorizing the southern plains with his psychotic brother on the road to El Rey.

Tarantino had snatched his idea of the fictional criminal kingdom, El Rey—Spanish for “the King”—from Jim Thompson’s crime novel The Getaway. The concept would be abandoned for the more optimistic ending used in the famous McQueen/MacGraw 1972 film adaptation, but QT would re-enlist it as the Gecko brothers’ raison d’être.

At first, From Dusk till Dawn does indicate shades of The Getaway‘s familiar story: two bank robbers on the run, a desert motel, a hostage situation, a planned rendezvous to get across the border… but even Sam Peckinpah and Walter Hill couldn’t have imagined the chaos that would ensue following the abrupt genre shift after the Geckos and their hostage family, the Fullers, arrive at the debauched cantina called the Titty Twister to wait out the hours from dusk ’til dawn.

We got a bunch of fuckin’ vampires out there trying to get in here and suck our fuckin’ blood, and that’s it, plain and simple. And I don’t wanna hear anything about “I don’t believe in vampires,” because I don’t fucking believe in vampires, but I believe in my own two eyes, and what I saw is fucking vampires. Now, do we all agree that what we are dealing with is vampires?

What’d He Wear?

Seth Gecko is cut from the cloth of the traditional Tarantino protagonist. Undoubtedly a ruthless killer, Seth is surrounded by enough volatile psychopaths—most notably, his paranoid, trigger-happy brother Richie (Tarantino himself)—that he assumes the role of the more charismatic anti-hero: “I may be a bastard, but I’m not a fuckin’ bastard.”

As a criminal in QT’s world, both brothers Gecko dress in variations of the classic Tarantino criminal uniform of a black suit and white shirt, albeit bastardized to reflect the chaos of From Dusk till Dawn as both men ditch the ties of their Reservoir Dogs and Pulp Fiction forebears. In fact, Seth foregoes a traditional shirt altogether, building the effect of a black three-piece suit over his white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt like a ’90s-era Al Swearengen.

George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Unlike Al Swearengen, however, Seth never gets the opportunity to rule over El Rey as Ian McShane’s bearded bard had dominated Deadwood.

Looking closer at Seth’s outfit reveals that he actually wears a non-matching jacket, waistcoat, and trousers, all in slightly differing black fabrics.

The orphaned black single-breasted suit jacket, likely wool or a wool blend, has a then-fashionable low two-button stance positioned below the notch lapels. Consistent with ’90s detailing, the ventless and somewhat oversized jacket has straight jetted pockets on the hips (in addition to the typical welted breast pocket) and padded shoulders that extend beyond Clooney’s frame. Each sleeve is finished at the cuff with three black plastic sew-through buttons, smaller versions of the two buttons on the front.

Quentin Tarantino and George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

For once, Tarantino himself gets to appear in one of his famous car trunk POV shots. All QT needs is a tie for his Richie Gecko to fit in among the professional crooks from Reservoir Dogs and Pulp Fiction, while Seth takes a more unique style approach in his black mismatched three-piece “non-suit”.

The waistcoat (or vest, as an American like Seth would likely call it) is distinctively detailed with six black-finished metal buttons that Seth wears fully buttoned from the neckline down to the notched bottom. The vest appears to be constructed from a black nailhead-textured fabric—unlike the smoother, worsted-like cloth used to make the jacket—and has four slim-welted pockets, with Seth keeping some backup ammo in the lower left of the four pockets.

George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Despite the wear and tear of a bloody night at the Titty Twister, Seth’s dusty waistcoat remains fully buttoned, a testament to its solid construction.

Like Steve Buscemi’s loquacious Mr. Pink in Reservoir Dogs, Seth Gecko “completes” his suit with black denim jeans rather than traditional trousers. Given that he keeps a heavy .44 Magnum in his waistband, Seth wisely holds up these jeans with a heavy belt, typically a black leather with a substantial gold-toned single-prong buckle.

George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Though most of his wardrobe stays consistent, there are some continuity errors regarding Seth’s belts as several were used during the production with different leathers and buckles. Given the rest of his outfit, his black belt is the most “correct” choice—though many would argue there’s nothing “correct” about Seth’s wardrobe at all.

The most inconsistent belt used appears when Seth draws “Mr. 44” on Santanico Pandemonium (Salma Hayek), and the close-up of his waistband reveals a brown leather belt with a curved steel single-prong buckle.

From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Appropriate to his rebellious image and attitude, Seth Gecko wears black leather harness boots, a mid-century evolution of traditional engineer boots that were made popular by motorcyclists in the 1960s. Unlike classic engineer boots that are detailed with an adjustable strap across the ankle and instep, harness boots live up to their name by creating a harness of sorts around the bottom of each boot with a series of four non-adjustable straps: one strap extends from one side ring to the other over the instep, another strap connects both rings around the back of the ankle, and a shorter strap on each side extends down from the bottom of each ring to the outsoles.

Many bootmakers have specialized in harness boots of different colors and sizes since they were pioneered during the 1960s with makers including Ad Tec (via Amazon), Durango (via Amazon and Boot Barn), Frye (via Amazon and Boot Barn), and Harley Davidson (via Amazon and Boot Barn).

From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Seth kicks up his boots while being inconvenienced at a Texas convenience store.

Seth doesn’t wear any watch, rings, or jewelry, choosing instead to accessorize permanently with a tribal-style flame tattoo that extends up his left arm onto the side of his neck. Tattoo Fixers star Jay Hutton blamed Clooney’s screen ink in From Dusk till Dawn for sparking what he called the “worst” tattoo trend during a 2017 interview with The Irish Independent.

The Gun

“If you make a noise… Mr. 44 makes a noise,” Seth Gecko threatens a hostage. “If you ask a question, Mr. 44 answers it.”

Seth leaves no doubt regarding the caliber of his trusty six-shooter, but it takes a closer look to reveal that the weapon itself is an Astra Terminator, a large Spanish-made double-action revolver in the tradition of the Smith & Wesson Model 29 made famous by Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry. The .44 Magnum Astra made one of its first prominent screen appearances in the hands of another tough cop, the eponymous detective played by Fred Dryer on the NBC series Hunter.

George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

“Now, I don’t want to do it, but I will turn this place into the fucking Wild Bunch if I think that you are fucking with me!”

Inspired by the success of Smith & Wesson’s N-frame of revolvers, Spanish weapons manufacturer Astra-Unceta y Cia SA introduced its own line of large-caliber revolvers in 1980, chambered in .41 Magnum, .44 Magnum, and .45 Long Colt. These sizable weapons were typically offered with either 6-inch or 8.5-inch barrels until Astra introduced the Terminator, a .44-caliber six-shooter with a 2.75″ barrel.

Like the longer-barreled Astra revolvers, the Terminator was available in blued or nickel finish though the standard grips were black checkered rubber Pachmayr grips as opposed to the more polished walnut grips found on the Models 41, 44, and 45.

From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Seth’s Astra Terminator on the ground of the Titty Twister during a dramatic battle between humans and vampires.

Seth’s Astra Terminator passes through the hands of every member of the Fuller family, including both Scott (Ernest Liu) and Kate (Juliette Lewis) as well as their father Jacob (Harvey Keitel), to whom Seth hands off the revolver to defend himself against their vampiric foe as well as to kill himself before he can become “a lap dog of Satan.”

The Astra Terminator would reappear in the Quentin Tarantino canon when stunt driver Kim (Tracie Thoms) uses a stainless .44 to defend herself against Stuntman Mike (Kurt Russell) in Death Proof.

What to Imbibe

“I think I’m gonna get tanked tonight,” utters the doomed Texas Ranger Earl McGraw (Michael Parks) as he orders a pint of Jack Daniel’s from fellow doomed liquor store clerk Pete Bottoms (John Hawkes). This top-selling Tennessee whiskey with its widely familiar “Old No. 7” label often provides a visual shorthand for toughness and has been favored as the elixir of choice from every brand of badass from the refined Frank Sinatra to the rough-and-ready Keith Richards.

Once the Geckos are back on the road in their dusty Mercury Cougar, Seth spins the bottle cap off his own pint of Jack—perhaps the very one Earl intended to buy—and takes a swig before passing it over to Richie.

Quentin Tarantino and George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Drinking and driving is merely one of many inadvisably reckless behaviors exhibited by the brothers Gecko.

Also seen in the Gecko brothers’ XR7 is a packet of Red Apple cigarettes, another favorite item from the Tarantino-verse.

“Whiskey before beer, you’re in the clear,” or so they say. Having wet their whistle with some of Lynchburg’s finest on their way to the motel, Seth returns to the room with a six-pack of Lone Star, the “National Beer of Texas” as their marketing claims, which had first been brewed more than a century earlier in San Antonio by Adolphus Busch. After all, when in Texas…

George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

Lone Star beer and Big Kahuna burgers: the perfect replenishments for an afternoon on the lam and yet another reminder that we’re in the Tarantino-verse.

A few hours later, the Geckos are down in Mexico with the Fuller family, enjoying the reluctant hospitality of the Titty Twister trucker bar. Initially, the bartender (Danny Trejo!) had refused to serve Seth his desired whiskey, but Jacob used his Class 2 driver’s license to convince Trejo they belonged… and thus, five relatively clean glasses and a bottle coming right up!

Seth doesn’t seem to mind that his request for whiskey was ignored as he’s instead given a bottle of Pisco Vargas to drink the night away. (It could be theorized that the Titty Twister would hardly be worried about losing any customer’s business and most are hardly in any condition to complain by the following morning.)

Claimed by both Peru and Chile as their respective national drinks, pisco was reportedly developed in South America by 16th-century Spanish settlers who distilled fermented grape juice into a high-proof brandy which may have received its appellation from the Peruvian port city of the same name. While both Peru and Chile continue to produce their own respective piscos, the Pisco Vargas variety featured in From Dusk till Dawn is a product of Peru.

From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

“Post time, Kate,” Seth instructs Fuller’s daughter as she prepares to take her first shot. “Slam it down, you knock the glass down on the table, alright?”

How to Get the Look

George Clooney as Seth Gecko in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

George Clooney as Seth Gecko in From Dusk till Dawn (1996)

A conventional Tarantino anti-hero in an anything-but-conventional movie, Seth Gecko “builds” the look of a black three-piece suit with a non-matching jacket, waistcoat, and jeans worn over his undershirt and motorcycle boots… though not a single piece of his wardrobe avoids the blood, guts, and dust of his chaotic night at the Titty Twister.

  • Black wool single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Black nailhead-textured single-breasted waistcoat/vest with 6 black-finished metal shank buttons and 4 slim-welted pockets
  • Black denim twill jeans
  • Wide black leather belt with thick gold-toned single-prong buckle
  • Black leather harness boots

It should go without saying, but this would be a look best reserved for cosplay or Halloween costumes rather than everyday life. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, and Clooney himself was photographed by Ron Galella wearing a lighter approach to the suit, vest, and undershirt look for a Planet Hollywood opening in March of 1995, three months before production began on From Dusk till Dawn.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I don’t care about livin’ or dyin’ anymore, I just want to send as many of these devils back to hell as I can.

The post George Clooney in From Dusk till Dawn appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Candidate: Robert Redford’s Navy Striped Campaign Suit

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Robert Redford as Bill McKay in The Candidate (1972)

Robert Redford as Bill McKay in The Candidate (1972)

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Robert Redford as Bill McKay, charismatic lawyer-turned-senatorial candidate

Los Angeles, Summer through Fall 1972

Film: The Candidate
Release Date: June 29, 1972
Director: Michael Ritchie
Costume Design: Patricia Norris
Costume Supervisor: Bernie Pollack

Background

Tomorrow is Election Day here in the United States… though I doubt anyone has missed the memo given the barrage of emails, texts, social media posts, and more designed to serve as reminders and instructions.

Avoiding any discussion of this year’s contentious political arena, let’s step back nearly 50 years to the early 1970s when Robert Redford was seeking to work again with director Michael Ritchie after their first collaboration in Downhill Racer (1969). The duo reportedly former political writer Jeremy Larner to pen what would become an Academy Award-winning screenplay chronicling “a candidate who sold his soul.” Larner had worked as a speechwriter for Senator Eugene McCarthy during McCarthy’s campaign for the Democratic presidential nomination in 1968, using this experience to draft the story of Bill McKay, the activist lawyer from California tapped to challenge the popular Republican incumbent in the battle for a U.S. Senate seat.

The twist? McKay is assured that he has no chance of winning and will merely be paraded as a figurehead candidate so that the Democratic party can put in a respectable showing against the Republican in office, and thus can feel free to use the “campaign” as an opportunity to spread his own idealistic dogmas. Of course, McKay’s handlers underestimated the power of his populist platform and he becomes a rising star in California, celebrating his victory at the Democratic primaries complete with a bevy of dancers singing McKay’s praises to the tune of “California, Here I Come” as well as a special appearance from Natalie Wood.

Robert Redford and Natalie Wood in The Candidate (1972)

Robert Redford and Natalie Wood were reunited for her cameo in The Candidate, years after they had co-starred in the Depression-set dramas Inside Daisy Clover (1965) and This Property is Condemned (1966).

The Candidate was released less than two weeks after the Watergate break-in, the circumstances of which directly led to Redford taking on his even more ambitious politically oriented follow-up project, All the President’s Men (1976), in which he stared as famous Nixon-busting reporter Bob Woodward.

Despite the ongoing Watergate investigation, Richard Nixon sailed to an easy victory in 1972, winning his home state of California as well as every other state excluding the District of Columbia and Massachusetts. However, not every California voter was sold on Tricky Dick and it’s been reported that “McKay” received more than a few write-in votes in the state primary, perhaps in response to the film’s promotional posters that featured only a photo of Robert Redford with his character’s oft-seen campaign slogan, McKay: The Better Way!

What’d He Wear?

McKay leaves behind his more rugged everyday threads—corduroy suits, chambray shirts, and coarse woolen jackets and ties—as he rises in the political world, graduating into the characteristically unremarkable sartorialism of American politics with a rotation of navy and gray business suits. This includes flannel suits in gray and navy as well as two additional suits in striped dark blue worsted.

The most frequently worn between these two navy blue suits is patterned with a single white pinstripe and a gray double-stripe that is more prominently seen from a distance. McKay wears this businesslike suit while campaigning everywhere from shopping malls to school gymnasiums, withstanding the excitement of getting punched in the face and being asked to sign breasts.

As with most American politicians’ garb, there’s little that differentiates McKay’s suit from how most men’s suits have been styled for the better part of a century, the cut and styling consistent with—but not directed by—prevailing fashions of the early 1970s. The suit jacket is single-breasted with notch lapels and a two-button front, perhaps the most basic configuration in menswear, with an equally commonplace welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, and single vent. The sleeves are finished with two vestigial buttons slightly spaced apart on each cuff.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

Dressed the part of the politician in three different types of stripes, McKay presents his much-advertised “better way” to the dozen denizens in attendance.

With the appropriate rise to Redford’s natural waist, the suit’s flat front trousers have straight pockets along the side seams and jetted back pockets, and the bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

After a sparsely attended rally, McKay talks strategy with advisors including Marvin Lucas (Peter Boyle), the veteran tactician who had talked McKay into running for Senate in the first place.

No longer does McKay wear that massive belt buckle that worked so well with his corduroys and chambray, either. With his businesslike suits, the candidate wears a typical black leather belt of ordinary width with a brass-finished rectangular single-prong buckle.

The Candidate (1972)

“I’m sorry, Bill, this has gotta be lunch…” McKay shoves the depressing tuna sandwich into his pocket, giving us a good look at his belt as well as the suit’s distinctive alternating stripe pattern.

Coordinating his shoes to his belt and again eschewing any nontraditional choices, McKay wears plain black calf leather oxfords with a squared toe cap.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay and Lucas step into a rundown restroom to talk through the next phase of McKay’s campaign.

McKay cycles through a limited “road closet” of shirts and ties while working his way up and down the Golden State on the campaign trail. Naturally, one of his shirts is classic plain white cotton with a front placket, breast pocket, and squared barrel cuffs; only the larger point collar with its extended room for tie space betrays that this is a politician of the early ’70s.

Given his “clean-cut” presentation, McKay makes frequent use of that most classic of Ivy neckwear, the Brooks Brothers #1 repp tie. The Massachusetts outfitter had pioneered the “reverse-stripe” tie in 1902 to differentiate its products from the British regimental and school ties that inspired them, assigning a model number to each of its varied stripe patterns that all followed the “downhill” direction from right shoulder down to left hip.

While I can’t confirm for sure that Redford sports a genuine BB #1, the stripes on McKay’s favorite tie follow the same pattern; the tie alternates between navy and white block stripes, the latter split into three sections by twin rust-colored stripes.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay inspires trust in his somber navy striped business suit, clean white shirt, and Ivy-striped tie as he makes the case for his “better way”.

After months of campaigning on a populist platform, Bill McKay and his team celebrate his victory at the Democratic primaries, where he debuts a second navy, white, and rust-striped tie that would only be seen again with his solid navy suit on Election Day… perhaps suggesting that it’s McKay’s “victory tie”. Though the colors are similar, this tie differs from the BB#1 with its wider navy stripes and slimmer white bar stripes, of which every other stripe is nearly filled by a rust-colored stripe in the same direction.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

Joined by his wife Nancy (Karen Carlson), McKay answers questions following his primary victory.

The Democratic victory forces McKay’s team to restrategize with a more centrist approach so that their candidate can begin to try winning voters away from the incumbent rather than just rising in popularity within his own party. In order to “go after the rest,” as Melvin Lucas puts it, McKay continues his campaign harder than ever, even when it meets giving speeches to mostly empty auditoriums.

For many of his appearances, McKay again wears his BB#1-style tie, this time with a cotton shirt in a balanced navy and white hairline stripe, styled with a point collar, front placket, and button cuffs.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay also enlists his father’s support and connections, leading to a meeting between the younger McKay and a labor representative, Floyd J. Sharkey (Kenneth Tobey). Unimpressed by the old-school union official, McKay surprising wins the man’s backing and thus the much-needed Teamster endorsement that brings him within three points of his opponent.

For this meeting, McKay wears a slate-gray shirt with thin, narrowly spaced white stripes that is otherwise similarly styled to the white shirt with its large point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and squared button-closed cuffs. The shirt’s subtle striping compliments—rather than clashes against—the more substantial stripe of his BB#1-style tie.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

The Floyd Sharkey meeting wouldn’t be the first or last time that McKay successfully pulls off the risky trio of a striped suit, striped shirt, and striped tie, wisely graduating in size from the shirt outward as advised by Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man.

A Malibu wildfire presents an ideal photo op for McKay, who diverts his planned return to San Diego in order to make a public appearance connecting with his fellow Californians in need. In his scarlet red satin silk cravat—the classic “power tie” of American politics—McKay is perfectly dressed to play the quintessential politician as he takes the opportunity to expound some of his campaign points about preventing watershed erosion against the backdrop of the burning forest.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

By the eve of the election, McKay dresses up his all-American red, white, and blue with his tie, shirt, and suit respectively, wearing the same scarlet silk tie but with a dressier white shirt finished with double (French) cuffs. The shirt and tie indicate McKay prioritizing performative patriotism and professionalism over his initial populism, a natural shift when an underdog becomes a bona fide political contender.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay on Election Day eve.

McKay had started his campaign with a somewhat awkward attempt to “connect” with blue-collar Californians. The inclement weather requires a raincoat, so McKay wears a beige gabardine thigh-length coat with a single vent, set-in sleeves, a plain Prussian collar turned up against the wind, and a fly front worn mostly buttoned to the neck.

While not exactly rumpled like Columbo, the look doesn’t inspire confidence as McKay hesitantly presents himself to potential voters, looking more like a man out of his element (which he is) rather than the confident and collected champion whose “better way” will save California.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay begins hitting the streets to spread his message at the start of his campaign.

Despite the subdued suits and style McKay wears once he had started his campaign, he maintains the affectations of not one but two rings. Likely standing in for a wedding ring on the third finger of his left hand, Redford wears the silver Hopi tribal ring that he had traditionally worn on his right hand. As McKay, Redford dresses his right ring finger with a silver ring with a turquoise-filled ridge around the center.

The silver Hopi ring isn’t the only piece of Redford’s own collection that makes it to the screen as the actor wears his personal Rolex Submariner on his right wrist. The stainless steel watch has a black dial, a black rotating bezel, and is worn on a steel Oyster-style link bracelet.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

THE CANDIDATE

Some shots, including McKay working the crowd during a ticker tape parade, shows Redford wearing another watch. This plainer steel-cased watch with its round white dial and expanding band appears to be the same as a piece he had worn three years earlier in Downhill Racer, suggesting that this too is from the actor’s own horological collection.

Tucked away for most of his buttoned-up campaign appearances, Redford also wears his usual turquoise-accented pendant on a silver rope-style necklace.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay wakes up to a ringing phone on Election Day.

McKay’s Other Navy Striped Suit

Hey, when you like something, buy more of it! Bill McKay clearly has a penchant for dark blue suits with subtle yet unorthodox stripe patterns. For a few segments in The Candidate, McKay wears a suit with a stripe pattern that differs only slightly from the suit described above and, were it not for my diagnosed OCD and high-definition version of The Candidate, I may have just assumed it was the same one.

This second navy striped suit is most prominently featured in the days leading up to the election as McKay’s team is hitting the campaign trail hard, beginning with a rushed TV spot on channel 44’s Point of View, sponsored by Rolex (fortuitously the very watch buckled to McKay’s right wrist!), where the still-green candidate can’t stop himself from laughing as the boom mic is slowly lowered down.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

This suit’s pattern of bold and subtle stripes against a navy blue ground differs from the other by consisting of a pattern consisting of a prominent gray chalk-stripe, a thinner gray pinstripe, a barely discernible scarlet red pinstripe, and another thin gray pinstripe before the pattern repeats again with another bold gray chalk-stripe.

Robert Redford in The Candidate (1972)

McKay struggles to keep himself composed as an inexplicably amusing boom mic descends upon him.

For both of this suit’s major appearances, McKay wears it with the aforementioned American politician’s “uniform” of a plain white shirt and red tie, this time a wide-bladed cravat in solid scarlet silk.

Both white shirts have the expected large point collar of the era, though the Point of View shirt has barrel-fastened squared barrel cuffs while the ticker tape parade shirt is finished with double (French) cuffs that McKay fastens with pearl-surfaced gold cuff links.

How to Get the Look

Robert Redford as Bill McKay in The Candidate (1972)

Robert Redford as Bill McKay in The Candidate (1972)

As the titular Senate hopeful at the center of The Candidate, Robert Redford’s charismatic Bill McKay frequently campaigned in a dark navy striped business suit worn with the actor’s own Rolex Submariner, making the case not only for his “better way” but also blending three types of stripes without clashing.

  • Navy alternating-stripe worsted wool suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and single vent
    • Flat front trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White or thin-striped shirt with point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Navy Brooks Brothers #1-style repp tie with rust-on-white “downhill”-direction stripes
  • Black calf leather squared cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Black socks
  • Silver ring with turquoise-filled center ridge
  • Silver tribal ring
  • Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 dive watch with stainless steel case, black bezel and black dial, and steel Oyster-style bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Everything that happens is a complete surprise to me.

The post The Candidate: Robert Redford’s Navy Striped Campaign Suit appeared first on BAMF Style.

James Shigeta in The Crimson Kimono

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James Shigeta as Detective Joe Kojaku in The Crimson Kimono (1959)

James Shigeta as Detective Joe Kojaku in The Crimson Kimono (1959)

Vitals

James Shigeta as Joe Kojaku, LAPD homicide detective

Los Angeles, Summer 1959

Film: The Crimson Kimono
Release Date: October 1959
Director: Samuel Fuller
Costume Supervisor: Bernice Pontrelli

Background

Are you among the many movie buffs who observe #Noirvember, the month-long celebration of shadowy cinema often set in worlds populated by gumshoes, gunsels, and femmes fatale. Defining film noir is often as murky as the outlines of the shadows in some of its seminal works, though even applying the infamous Potter Stewart rule yields at least dozens of crime dramas produced within and beyond the United States during the 1940s and ’50s.

Earlier this year, the Criterion Channel again showcased a collection of noir from Columbia Pictures, the erstwhile Poverty Row studio that churned out some of the most quintessential high-talent noir in including Gilda (1946), The Lady from Shanghai (1947), and In a Lonely Place (1950) as well as an array of criminally underseen B-movies that balanced their low budgets with high quality. One of my favorites from the collection was The Crimson Kimono (1959), directed by former crime reporter and World War II veteran Samuel Fuller.

Modern audiences may recognize James Shigeta as the patient and ultimately doomed Nakatomi executive in Die Hard. Here, a considerably younger Shigeta plays the charismatic Joe Kojaku, an apple-munching, piano-playing Japanese-American homicide detective called in with his partner Charlie Bancroft (Glenn Corbett) to investigate the murder of burlesque dancer Sugar Torch (Gloria Pall) on L.A.’s” Main Street” one brightly lit, jazz-filled night in August 1959.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

Detectives Kojaku and Bancroft patrol the L.A. streets by night.

Shigeta slips easily into the role of a noir detective: easygoing but driven, sensitive and streetwise with plenty of unassuming toughness. As Joe, he shares an easy professional chemistry with Sergeant Bancroft dating back to their days sharing a foxhole during the Korean War. Closer than “two dabs of paint” according to the eccentric Mac (Anna Lee), the duo is now partnered in the LAPD’s Detective Bureau and share a swanky suite, recreationally fighting for crowds during the annual Nisei Week kendo match. However, the attentions of their latest charge—a romantic young artist named Christine Downes (Victoria Shaw) who painted Sugar Torch wearing that titular crimson kimono—threatens to fissure the friendship to a disastrous degree once a jealous Charlie becomes aware of Joe and Chris’ mutual attraction.

What’d He Wear?

James Shigeta cycles between three stylish outfits as Joe Kojaku: a dark checked sport jacket and two suits. (Hans Gruber would no doubt be disappointed to learn that none of his garments have been tailored by the fictional “John Phillips, London.”

The Bouclé-Checked Sports Coat

Joe’s sport jacket is detailed with a dark slubbed check threaded against a woolen twill ground. This period-popular technique resembles bouclé, a French-derived term for “ringlet” and defined in a sartorial context by the estimable Hardy Amies in ABC of Men’s Fashion as “a curled effect on the surface of a cloth, produced by drawing out small loops in the threads.”

James Shigeta in The Crimson Kimono (1959)

While a degree of slubbing was particularly popular in 1950s menswear, this jacket takes that textural effect to the next level with the all-over mini-grid check composed of this raised thread for an imperfect finish that Amies describes as “a pleasing ‘rough’ appearance to the texture.”

The single-breasted jacket has the narrow lapels that would become increasingly fashionably through the middle of the following decade, rolling to a three-button front. The jacket has a welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, a single vent, and two vestigial buttons spaced slightly apart at the cuffs of each sleeve.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

Partners Kojaku and Bancroft in their dark jackets and clipped dark ties.

Joe tends to wear the same type of shirts, light-colored (but non-white) cotton with a spread button-down collar, plain “French placket”, breast pocket, and button-fastened barrel cuffs. With this outfit, he wears a tie striped in two low-contrast shades in a thin, balanced “uphill” direction, held in place with a tie bar.

His dark, high-rise trousers have reverse-facing pleats, side pockets, button-through back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms. He wears a dark leather belt with a rectangular single-prong buckle.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

Christine (Victoria Shaw) shares a moment with Joe.

The Flannel Suit

Joe also has at least two flannel suits that he wears throughout The Crimson Kimono, despite the fact that this heavier cloth would no doubt be warm for an August stretch in Los Angeles. The suits are styled with single-breasted, three-button jackets that have wide shoulders, three-button cuffs and single vents. In addition to straight, jetted hip pockets, these jackets have a welted breast pocket where Joe wears a folded white cotton pocket square.

The suits’ matching trousers have double reverse-facing pleats “dropped” a few inches below the waistband, where Joe wears his usual dark leather belt with its rectangular single-prong buckle.

Joe wears his usual shirts with their wide-spread button-down collars with several different ties as this suit makes two different appearances. First, he wears a dark knitted straight tie with a flat bottom; for the film’s finale, he wears this suit with a striped tie similar to the one worn with his sports coat but with a more contrasting color scheme.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

The Knitwear-Layered Dark Suit

Joe wears a similar suit made from darker flannel for another scene, again stretching climate credibility by layering the jacket over a unique low-fastening cardigan that closes at the waist with three buttons.

This waistcoat is knitted from a medium-colored wool with a shadowed dark stripe following the edges (from about a half-inch in) down the V-shaped opening to the ribbed, straight-cut waist hem. The two set-in pockets—one on each hip—are accented to match the front edges with a dark stripe shadowed just below it by a slightly lighter one.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

George Yoshinaga (Bob Okazaki) meets with Joe, who layers a low-slung cardigan under his suit jacket.

Joe wears the same shoes with all of his outfits, a pair of dark leather split-toe derby shoes with dark socks.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

On his right pinky, Shigeta wears a gold stone with a dark rectangular stone that appears to be the same one clearly seen on the album artwork for his 1961 release Scene One / We Speak the Same Language. He wears Joe’s watch on his left wrist.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

The Gun

What’s a noir detective without his .38 snub? Like his partner Sergeant Bancroft, Detective Kojaku carries and frequently draws his LAPD-issued Colt Detective Special revolver, carried in a cross-draw holster on the left side of his belt.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

Joe draws what appears to be a Detective Special, identifiable by its two-inch barrel and the exposed ejector rod characteristic to early 20th century Colt revolvers.

Colt introduced the Detective Special in 1927 as one of the first manufactured “belly guns”, designed to pack a powerful but easily concealed punch with six rounds of .38 Special ammunition packed in a cylinder behind the standard two-inch barrel. While the concept was already more than a half-century old, dating back to the powerful British Bulldog revolvers that appeared in the late 19th century, the Detective Special standardized a modern approach to the concept that would be mimicked by every major revolver manufacturer in the years to follow.

What to Imbibe

The eccentric artist Mac (Anna Lee) fixes Joe up with enough bourbon in his tea that he can’t stop coughing. While Mac’s concoction may just be a slapdash gag, she’s on the right track as hot water and whiskey is one of the oldest alcoholic concoctions, renowned for its soothing properties whether nursing a sore throat or spending a cozy night in. The hot toddy is arguably the most comforting and ultimately rewarding combination of hot water and spirits, characterized by the addition of some form of sugar.

The Crimson Kimono (1959)

While not a true hot toddy, the bourbon-laced tea served to our hero Joe Kojaku had me strolling to my liquor cabinet and tea kettle to brew an evening warmer.

In his painstakingly researched volume Imbibe!, David Wondrich retells the anecdote of a Scottish doctor who stated the best drink for health was a “toddy, mun. The spirit must have something to act on, and therefore acts on the sugar and does nae injury to the stomach.”

While the science of this long-gone but undoubtedly popular physician’s statement may be questionable, the hot toddy has been a mainstay of American drinking since the pre-revolutionary era with Wondrich tracing its debut in the printed form to a Boston newspaper in 1750. “The old days were hard, but the people who lived them found ways of making them tolerable,” writes Wondrich, who explores the base spirits of rum, whiskey (for frontiersmen), brandy (for the upper class), applejack (for New Jerseyans), mixed with hot water and a spoonful of sugar that indeed help the medicine go down.

By the mid-19th century, father of American mixology Jerry Thomas had included the hot toddy among his offerings in his inaugural 1862 bartender’s guide where he specifies a teaspoon of sugar, a half-wineglass of boiling water, and a full glass of spirits added in that order, stirred, and served with a spoon. By that time, the “Whisky Skin” had also been pioneered, differentiated only by the addition of a lemon peel.

In the generations since, the mixology behind the toddy and the skin have become intertwined, with some suggesting that lemon is integral to a well-made hot toddy while yet others elect to use herbal tea rather than plain hot water. How to Cocktail by America’s Test Kitchen details the best example of these modernized recipes with five ounces of boiling water, an ounce and a half of brandy (or whiskey), a half-ounce of lemon juice, and a tablespoon of honey representing the sugared element, stirred together in a warmed mug and garnished with a lemon slice and—should one be so inclined—a cinnamon stick.

Whether you like yours with brandy or whisky, water or tea, sugar or honey, I leave you with Wondrich’s endorsement: “Under the proper circumstances, a Hot Toddy—particularly one constructed upon a foundation of good Highland malt whisky—is one of the clearest signs I know that there is a providential plan to the universe.”

How to Get the Look

James Shigeta as Detective Joe Kojaku in The Crimson Kimono (1959)

James Shigeta as Detective Joe Kojaku in The Crimson Kimono (1959)

James Shigeta’s affable detective at the center of The Crimson Kimono has a sensible eye of fashion, his most notable outfit layering a low-slung cardigan with a dark flannel suit, button-down shirt, and knitted tie for a fall-friendly getup perhaps a bit unseasonably warm for a southern California summer but perfect for a mid-autumn day at the office.

  • Dark flannel suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single vent
    • Double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Off-white cotton shirt with wide-spread button-down collar, plain front, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Dark knitted tie with flat bottom
  • Medium-colored knit sleeveless cardigan with piped edges, set-in pockets, and low V-shaped opening with 3-button closure
  • Dark leather split-toe derby shoes
  • Dark socks

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

You can’t feel for me unless you are me!

The post James Shigeta in The Crimson Kimono appeared first on BAMF Style.

Devil in a Blue Dress: Denzel Washington’s Gabardine Windbreaker

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Denzel Washington as Easy Rawlins in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Denzel Washington as Easy Rawlins in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Vitals

Denzel Washington as Ezekiel “Easy” Rawlins, former aircraft mechanic and World War II veteran

Los Angeles, Summer 1948

Film: Devil in a Blue Dress
Release Date: September 29, 1995
Director: Carl Franklin
Costume Designer: Sharen Davis

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

#Noirvember continues with Devil in a Blue Dress, adapted from Walter Mosley’s excellent 1990 novel of the same name introducing readers to Ezekiel “Easy” Rawlins, an Army veteran making his way in postwar Los Angeles. Though he would later transform into a full-time private detective, Devil in a Blue Dress establishes Easy as a neo-Hitchockian hero, an everyman who finds himself at the center of a dangerous mystery after losing his job at an aircraft assembly plant.

Down on his luck after the loss of his job, Easy agrees to take on a job for DeWitt Albright (Tom Sizemore), a slick racketeer who tasks the former mechanic with tracking down Daphne Monet (Jennifer Beals). He begins his search at John’s, a backroom nightclub where he finds a lead from the loose lips of his flirty friend Coretta (Lisa Nicole Carson). However, Easy’s investigation takes a deadly turn as many of his leads end up murdered and he reluctantly calls for assistance from his volatile, gun-toting pal Mouse Alexander (Don Cheadle).

Though not a professional investigator, Easy’s intuitive skill and wartime experience allows him to rise to the occasion and take care of himself in dangerous circumstances. Understandably mistaken for “a private dick” on several occasions during his work in search of Daphne, Easy is inspired by the end of the story to hang his own shingle as a private eye.

What’d He Wear?

With a few exceptions, most of Easy Rawlins’ costuming in Devil in a Blue Dress consists of warm neutral tones: taupe tops and trousers ranging across the sepia spectrum, not unlike the colors he would have worn while serving in the U.S. Army during World War II. He’s not the flashiest or best-dressed character in the film—a title that his slick pal Mouse would likely grab from sartorial runner-up DeWitt Albright—but Easy makes the most of his limited wardrobe by sporting period pieces with a modern and practical sensibility.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Easy brushes off the rude Richard McGee (Scott Lincoln) as he makes his way to John’s.

Easy’s go-to garment for much of Devil in a Blue Dress is a waist-length windbreaker in a taupe brown gabardine with a gentle puce sheen under some light. Unlike the modern definition of the “windbreaker” term frequently associated with the nylon shell track jackets, the term originated during the 1940s when it was trademarked by John Rissman & Son in Chicago to describe its then-revolutionary line of casual gabardine zip-up jackets. For a period, the terms “gabardine” and “windbreaker” were used almost interchangeably in marketing shortcuts.

In another connection to hardboiled fiction, Raymond Chandler describes a shady deputy sporting one of these jackets toward the end of The Long Goodbye, confronting Philip Marlowe while wearing “a dark brown gabardine-type windbreaker and the zipper was open almost to his waist.”

Unlike Chandler’s mysterious deputy, Easy alternates between wearing his windbreaker completely unzipped or zipped up almost to the neck, particularly when he wears it in lieu of an overshirt.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Clad in his windbreaker zipped to the neck, Easy keeps an eye on the eponymous Daphne during a late night stop at the Griffith Park Observatory. A noir-ish shot if there ever was one.

This “hero” windbreaker is a more fashionable variant of the work jacket that Easy wears toward the start of the film, emblazoned with the Champion Aircraft logo on the left breast but otherwise similarly colored and styled.

Easy’s personal windbreaker has a flat, shirt-style collar and two patch pockets over the chest with rounded bottom corners and flaps (sans buttons). The edges of the collar and pocket flaps are detailed with a non-contrasting stitch. The shoulders are wide, and the sleeves are finished with a squared cuff that closes through one of two buttons. The back is shirred under a horizontal shoulder yoke, narrowly ribbed across the back of the waist hem.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

While Easy wears the windbreaker over just his undershirt for the later scenes in Devil in a Blue Dress, the jacket makes its first appearance layered over a mustard yellow sports shirt that appears to be made from rayon gabardine, a tightly woven fabric that was touted during the era as “artificial silk” for its soft feel and drape. The shirt has a plain “French placket” with horizontal buttonholes, button cuffs, and a loop collar that Easy wears buttoned to the neck, affecting the look of a long point collar. The mixed brown buttons have two holes, through which they’re sewn to the shirt via white thread. Edge-stitched in a contrasting brown thread, the shirt also has two chest pockets with non-buttoning flaps, mimicking the windbreaker he wears over it.

This shirt style was popular in the postwar years as American menswear continued to embrace informality; vintage examples still exist (like this shirt previously sold through Rusty Zipper) while London-based outfitter Scott Fraser Collection offers a luxurious retro-inspired Cuban collar shirt in a slubby yellow “ochre” cotton/rayon fabric.

With this shirt, Easy wears a set of brown suspenders (braces), patterned with two tan bar stripes and detailed with gold-toned hardware and tan leather patches and hooks.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Easy downs some bourbon at John’s.

As the action picks up, Easy just layers his windbreaker over his undershirt in the manner of a shirt-jacket (or “shacket” if you will). His sleeveless undershirts are white wide-ribbed cotton and—for the latter part of the action—worn with dark brown suspenders patterned with what appears to be a bar stripe through the center but is actually a set of four stone-colored hairline-width stripes, shadowed on each side by a thicker navy stripe. These suspenders have silver-toned adjusters (with thin diagonal ridges) and tan leather patches and hooks.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Easy’s dark brown pleated trousers have a then-fashionably long rise, held up by the aforementioned suspenders and thus the belt loops go properly unused to avoid the redundancy of the idiomatic “belt and braces”.

Not uncommon for the fashionably higher-waisted trousers of the era, the double reverse-facing pleats are “dropped” a few inches below the waistband, the most forward pleat aligned with the first set of belt loops flanking the fly. Voluminous through the hips and wider legs, these trousers also have side pockets and turn-ups (cuffs).

Easy wears his usual well-worn brown leather ankle boots, derby-laced and with a plain toe box not unlike the russet service shoes he would have been issued in the Army.

He finishes the look with a dark brown felt trilby with a narrow upturned brim that affects the look of a porkpie hat though it lacks the porkpie’s characteristic round crown. Indeed, Easy’s hat has a pinched crown and a dark brown grosgrain band.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Easy lights one of the distinctive Zapata cigarettes bummed from Junior Fornay (David Wolos-Fonteno).

In earlier scenes, Easy wears what appears to be his mil-spec A-11 field watch from the war, eventually switching to his “civilian watch”, a gold dress watch with a tan rectangular dial, fastened to his left wrist on a dark brown leather strap.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

With Mouse and Dupree out of commission in the kitchen, Easy takes the opportunity to rifle through Dupree’s belongings for the clue Coretta had left behind.

The Gun

After Daphne reveals the truth to Easy and is swiftly abducted from his house by DeWitt Albright’s thugs, Easy enlists a somewhat sobered Mouse back into service and demands “gimme one of them guns you got,” taking the pearl-gripped Colt Model 1903 Pocket Hammerless for the final act.

As he isn’t yet an investigator, Easy is forced to rely on his pal Mouse to provide the artillery for their investigation… and indeed he does. In addition to his massive .455 Webley revolver, Mouse packs the more compact .32 Colt semi-automatic pistol as a backup sidearm. Easy’s military training would have provided him with enough experience to deftly handle the small-caliber pistol, which he uses to great effect during the finale set in a deserted cabin off Route 9 near Malibu.

Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Easy takes cover with Mouse’s Colt .32 in hand.

Colt introduced the Model 1903 shortly after the dawn of the 20th century (I’ll let you figure out which year) where its ease of use and reliability quickly made it one of the most popular of these early semi-automatic pistols among civilians and criminals alike, reportedly wielded among the latter group by infamous yeggs like John Dillinger, Al Capone, and Bonnie Parker. The pistol was initially introduced in the small .32 ACP caliber with an additional variant chambered in .380 ACP added to the mix five years later.

Despite the Model 1903’s “Hammerless” designation, the blowback-operated pistol indeed has a hammer though it remains covered by the back of the slide to prevent it from snagging on clothing when carried in one’s pocket. Colt manufactured more than than a half million pistols in both calibers through the end of World War II, by which time it was no longer a novelty as scores of other semi-automatic pistols were now widely available in all sizes and calibers.

What to Imbibe

“Get me a setup and a Coke back,” Easy orders once he gets to John’s, an illegal jazz club situated above a grocery store. The “setup” is the bar’s way of serving customers who want to drink, providing only the glass in a bowl of ice… until an independent salesman comes around to the customer’s table to sell spirits—in Easy’s case, a pint of bourbon—from a closed case.

Bourbon is also the liquor of choice when Easy and Mouse drop in on Dupree (Jernard Burks), the laidback boyfriend of the late Coretta. Dupree serves up a bottle of Kentucky Tavern, a venerable brand that began life in 1880 and transferred operations several times during the generations to follow before landing at the Barton Distillery in Bardstown, where it’s currently produced by the Sazerac Company.

Don Cheadle and Denzel Washington in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

In addition to the full bottle of Kentucky Tavern whiskey, Mouse makes quick work of the pig tails Dupree had been cooking.

Easy doesn’t restrict himself to bourbon as he also enjoys the occasional beer, though he doesn’t touch the Pabst Blue Ribbon bottle he’s given after arriving at Junior’s house earlier that day.

What to Listen to

Devil in a Blue Dress is full of great music, primarily jazz, blues, and R&B from the late 1940s. Easy’s visit to John’s guarantees that this outfit would be accompanied by some energetic toe-tappers and evocative blues from some of the most talented artists of the era.

Hop, Skip, and Jump Good Rockin' Tonight Blues After Hours Chicken Shack Boogie Messin' Around

How to Get the Look

Denzel Washington as Easy Rawlins in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Denzel Washington as Easy Rawlins in Devil in a Blue Dress (1995)

Easy Rawlins makes postwar casual attire look cool and contemporary, his gabardine windbreaker a stylish forebear to more modern shirt-jackets that have been enjoying a recent resurgence.

  • Taupe brown gabardine windbreaker with flat collar, zip-up front, two flapped chest pockets, button cuffs, and ribbed back hem
  • Yellow rayon gabardine sports shirt with loop collar, plain front, two flapped chest pockets, and button cuffs
  • Dark brown double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Brown striped suspenders with tan leather patches and hooks
  • Russet brown leather plain-toe derby-laced ankle boots
  • Dark brown felt trilby with pinched crown, brown grosgrain band, and upturned brim
  • Gold dress watch with tan rectangular dial on dark brown leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and read Walter Mosley’s novel.

The Quote

See, everybody was in business in Los Angeles.

The post Devil in a Blue Dress: Denzel Washington’s Gabardine Windbreaker appeared first on BAMF Style.

Scorpio: Alain Delon’s Black Blazers

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Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Vitals

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier, aka “Scorpio”, dangerous freelance assassin, former French paratrooper, and cat lover

Washington, D.C., and Vienna, Spring 1973

Film: Scorpio
Release Date: April 19, 1973
Director: Michael Winner
Wardrobe Master: Philippe Pickford

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy 85th birthday to French cinema icon Alain Delon, whose November 8, 1935 birthday makes him a Scorpio and thus a fitting choice for the title role in Michael Winner’s 1973 espionage thriller Scorpio. (Interestingly, Delon was re-teamed with The Leopard co-star Burt Lancaster, whose November 2, 1913 birthday makes him a Scorpio as well!) The astrological overtones sneak into the script as well as a CIA officer suggests to Delon’s character Jean Laurier that his codename “Scorpio” suits him:

We named you well, you’re a perfect Scorpio! You have a penchant for intrigue, violence…

Winner dusted off the dynamic between the young assassin and his aging mentor from The Mechanic for this globe-trotting spy flick, and Delon and Lancaster deliver the goods in these respective roles despite rarely rising above average. I found myself particularly distracted by the questionable spywork by these supposed pros, such as when Lancaster indiscreetly outlines their covert work while strolling with Delon through the crowded Orly Airport, describing Scorpio’s role as a “contract button man” who kills for the CIA while handing their tickets to the Air France clerk and continuing to talk through the latest details behind the “why” of their latest hit as they take their seats on a crowded commercial plane.

Upon arriving in D.C., the weary Cross (Lancaster) returns into the arms of his wife while the swaggering “Scorpio” checks into the the Warren Harding Presidential Suite, where the hardened hitman is delighted to find a cat already in his room. One interesting aspect of Delon’s Scorpio is that he seems to have little interest in actually carrying out his assigned executions, instead using his first days back in Washington to drop in on his sister as well as his girlfriend, taking the latter for a sightseeing date to landmarks like the Lincoln Memorial and brunch at the Watergate Hotel. (The Watergate grew to global infamy while the Scorpio production unit was still there on June 17, 1972, when the “White House Plumbers” were caught breaking into the DNC headquarters on the sixth floor of the complex.) Frustrated by the assassin’s inaction, the CIA plants heroin in Scorpio’s room and sends the local fuzz to arrest him.

Despite their chummy attitude on the ride from Paris, we learn that Scorpio had been commissioned to kill Cross back in France rather than allowing him to return stateside, as explained by CIA chief McLeod (John Colicos).

McLeod: You were supposed to kill Cross at the Paris job.
Scorpio: No contract.
McLeod: You took the money?
Scorpio: You left the money.

At first, we may suspect that Scorpio refused to carry out the job out of allegiance to Cross, but he shrewdly negotiates to complete the assignment in exchange for Cross’ old job, an official posting in Beirut. His future with the agency assured, Scorpio proves to have been an attentive pupil, using Cross’ teachings and advice to track him down for termination.

What’d He Wear?

Whether he’s in Washington or Vienna, Scorpio tends to wear his go-to outfit of a black blazer, black Charvet tie, and flared trousers. He’s occasionally seen in other clothing, such as a triangle-motif sweater worn for his introduction in Paris or a dark gray business suit he wears toward the end, but the blazer-anchored outfit is clearly Scorpio’s favorite.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Scorpio dresses for his deadly business in black blazer, tie, and trousers.

From my observation, two different black blazers were used, differing only in the number of buttons on the front and the width of the swelled edges detailed along the lapels. The buttons on both jackets are silver-toned metal recessed shank buttons, with one blazer rigged with two on the front while the other has a full three-button front. At first, I thought perhaps the notch lapel was simply rolling over the top button on the right, but closer examination does reveal that the two blazers used were cut and styled for their respective number of buttons on the front. (For what it’s worth, the two-button blazer has a wider degree of edge swelling while the three-button blazer has narrower swelled edges.)

Regardless of how many are on the front, both blazers have two similar buttons on the cuffs as well as a single back vent and patch pockets on the left breast and hips. (There does appear to be a third black blazer, which has a two-button front with bluff-edged notch lapels and three-button cuffs, seen only briefly as Scorpio boards his TWA flight to Europe.)

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Scorpio’s two black blazers: three buttons on the left, two buttons on the right. Note that the lapel roll (and degree of edge swelling) suggests indeed that these are two completely different jackets and not just an instance where the lapel is folding over the top button.

While in Washington, Scorpio wears a pale yellow cotton shirt with a long point collar, front placket, and button cuffs, fitted with back darts that flatter Delon’s athletic physique. He completes the look with the same black Charvet tie that he favors with this blazer.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

A yellow shirt to match the decor of his suite, perhaps?

Scorpio wears shark gray flat front trousers with a long rise and a tight fit around the hips, slim through the legs down to the plain-hemmed bottoms where they flare out dramatically as was fashionable during the ’70s.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

In his tight, pocketless trousers with flared bottoms, Scorpio proves to be a hitman able to keep up with the latest fashion trends.

Appropriate for the amount of black present in the rest of his outfit, Scorpio’s shoes are also black, a shined leather pair of apron-toe slip-ons with a wide-slotted strap similar to an exaggerated penny loafer. He wears these with black socks.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

For most of the other scenes, Scorpio wears white shirts with his black blazer, similarly styled with a point collar, front placket, button cuffs, and darted fit. Most of the time, these shirts are plain, solid white cotton, though Delon appears to wear a shirt for the Vienna chase scene that is subtly patterned with a double tonal stripe and a narrower front placket.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Back to business in a plain white shirt.

While Scorpio sometimes wears the white shirt and black tie with his gray trousers, he typically wears them with a pair of black flat front trousers to build the look of a non-matching suit with his black blazer. Typically, most would advise against combining an odd jacket and trousers of the same color and this outfit gives no indication of what I—perhaps misleadingly—shorthand as a “blazer suit”: a two-piece suit with a metal-buttoned jacket. If Delon manages to pull it off at all, it’s because he looks like Alain Delon.

Scorpio usually wears the same black loafers with these black trousers, though we do spy Delon wearing a pair of more stunt-friendly sneakers with dark navy or black uppers during the Vienna chase scene.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Scorpio takes a leap in his black blazer and trousers, prepared for the extra action with his slip-ons swapped out for sneakers.

Unlike the pocketless gray trousers, these black trousers have “frogmouth”-style front pockets and a back right pocket where Scorpio occasionally slips his .45 when not wearing his holster. The bottoms, finished with turn-ups (cuffs), are less dramatically flared.

Scorpio wears a thick alligator-textured belt with a silver-toned rectangular single-prong buckle. The belt itself and the context of the rest of the outfit would imply black, though it does appear to shine a dark burgundy in some light.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

The day he tracks down Cross in Austria, Scorpio layers on the de facto noir hero outerwear, a long belted trench coat. Made from a military shade of olive green gabardine (rather than the classic khaki trench Delon famously wore in Le Samouraï), this knee-length coat has a double-breasted front with three rows of two drab plastic four-hole buttons sewn to the coat, with the center row of buttons covered by the broad self-belt tightened through a sliding brass buckle. An additional row of buttons at the top would fasten the lapels over the chest as needed.

Scorpio’s trench coat also has the requisite shoulder straps (epaulettes) and tabs on each cuff that each fasten to one of two buttons to adjust the sleeves’ fit over the wrists. The sleeves are set-in rather than raglan.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

A tourist in a trench coat?

A horological enthusiast in real life who even had a self-branded line of wristwatches, Delon likely wears one of his own watches in Scorpio. The hitman’s timepiece appears to be stainless steel with a round off-white dial, worn on a steel five-piece link bracelet.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Note the Charvet tag on the back of Scorpio’s black tie as he expertly field-strips his .45 to clean it.

The Gun

Technically in the employ of the U.S. government, it makes sense that Scorpio would be armed with the venerable service pistol that had served the U.S. military for a half century up to this point, the classic .45-caliber Colt M1911A1 semi-automatic pistol

Scorpio stands out as an anomaly among movies of its era as Delon appears to carry a true .45-caliber 1911 rather than a 9mm copy like the Star Model B, which was often swapped in by contemporary productions like The Wild Bunch (1969), Dillinger (1973), and Three Days of the Condor (1975) as 9x19mm Parabellum blank ammunition cycled more consistently than .45 ACP blanks at the time.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Telltale signs that Delon carries a true 1911 pistol are the .45-caliber bore and the lack of an external extractor on the right side of the frame, which would give away the Star Model B as used in other movies.

Scorpio carries his 1911 in a black leather belt holster, worn on his right side for a strong-side draw. While perhaps more comfortable than an IWB holster would be for a large sidearm like a full-size 1911A1, this would likely be an impractical carry method for a covert assassin hoping to avoid detection as the grips would almost certainly print through his jacket, especially given the tailoring of Delon’s blazer.

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

The arched mainspring housing characteristic to a 1911A1 (rather than the straight back of the original 1911) is seen as Scorpio wears his holstered .45, as do the classic Colt “diamond grips”.

How to Get the Look

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

Alain Delon as Jean Laurier in Scorpio (1973)

I’d leave the tricky attempts to pull off a matching blazer and trousers to a true style icon like Alain Delon, instead opting to take some inspo from the safer (and more visually interesting) approach with the yellow shirt and gray trousers… but to each their own.

  • Black 2- or 3-button blazer with swelled-edge notch lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and single vent
  • White or pale yellow cotton shirt with long point collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Black or gray flat front high-rise trousers with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black alligator-textured leather belt with large steel rectangular single-prong buckle
  • Black leather strong-side belt holster, for M1911A1 pistol
  • Black leather apron-toe penny loafers
  • Black socks
  • Stainless steel wristwatch with round off-white dial on steel five-piece link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. If you’re a fan of Alain Delon, I also recommend following my friend @alaindelonarchive on Instagram for great photos, footage, and stories about this iconic French actor.

The Quote

I don’t play games when the rules are bent.

The post Scorpio: Alain Delon’s Black Blazers appeared first on BAMF Style.

Richard Burton’s Brown Tweed Jacket in The Sandpiper

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Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton during production of The Sandpiper (1965)

Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton during production of The Sandpiper (1965)

Vitals

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt, boarding school headmaster

Big Sur, California, Spring 1965

Film: The Sandpiper
Release Date: June 23, 1965
Director: Vincente Minnelli
Costume Designer: Irene Sharaff

Background

Today would have been the 95th birthday of Richard Burton, the Welsh actor born November 10, 1925 perhaps best known for his Shakespearean talent and his back-to-back marriages with frequent co-star Elizabeth Taylor.

After engaging in an affair during the course of their first two films, Cleopatra (1963) and The V.I.P.s (1963), Liz and Dick finally tyed the knot—for the first time—on March 15, 1964, shortly before production commenced on their third film together, The Sandpiper. While perhaps not a cinematic masterpiece, The Sandpiper remains one of the few major motion pictures to have been filmed at Big Sur and this famously picturesque portion of central California coastline looks fantastic by day and by night as seen from the beach abode where Laura Reynolds (Taylor) calls home.

Laura’s path entangles with Dr. Edward Hewitt (Burton) via her young son Danny (Morgan Mason), who is sent to attend the Episcopal boarding school where Edward serves as headmaster. Happily—if placidly—married to schoolteacher Claire (Eva Marie Saint), the self-righteous Edward finds himself drawn to the free-spirited Laura, an uncomfortable attraction that only intensifies when he drops in unannounced only to find her posing nude for her sculptor friend Cos (Charles Bronson).

Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor, and Charles Bronson in The Sandpiper (1965)

Elizabeth Taylor finds a way to give the picturesque Big Sur coast a run for its money.

Though we the audience know there’s no way Liz and Dick are making it through the movie without, uh, making it, he still fumbles for some small talk to work through the embarrassment of the moment, first about her son and then about the eponymous wounded bird she’s nursing back to health: “The sandpiper appears to be doing very well, I see.”

What’d He Wear?

Tweed has often been described as professorial and, though my own college experiences wouldn’t back up this oft-repeated claim, Dr. Edward Hewitt looks every bit the smartly dressed man of academia in his woolen tweed sport jacket, woven in a wide-scaled brown and black herringbone and finished with tobacco brown suede elbow patches. The single-breasted jacket has fashionably narrow lapels with shallow notches as well as short double vents. The two dark brown mixed buttons on the front are mimicked by the three “kissing” buttons on each cuff. In addition to the welted breast pocket, the jacket has a straight flapped pocket on each hip.

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt in The Sandpiper (1965)

Edward downs some grappa, giving us a good glimpse at those elbow patches as both Lauras—in human and sculpture form—look on.

Edward may look a little more at home in Laura’s bohemian enclave if he had taken a more McQueen-like approach to his tweed, such as layering his sports coat over a dark turtleneck en vogue in central California among everyone from beatniks to Bullitt. That said, Burton still looks contemporary and ultimately timeless in the way he wears his tweed, his “cool factor” only threatened by his reserved demeanor.

During this second visit to Laura’s home, he wears a pale blue cotton poplin shirt with a semi-spread collar and front placket that we saw him buttoning up after a round of golf, though it should be noted that the shirt goes from having button cuffs in the Pebble Beach locker room to double (French) cuffs by the time he gets to Laura’s. His straight slate-blue silk tie nicely coordinates with yet contrasts against the lighter shirt.

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt in The Sandpiper (1965)

Edward’s dark olive brown flat front trousers look similar to those he wore for golf, though these seem to be finished with plain-hemmed bottoms rather than the cuffed bottoms we saw him wear on the links. He also wears a pair of dark brown leather cap-toe derby shoes and dark brown socks.

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt in The Sandpiper (1965)

Later, Edward wears the jacket again when he returns to Laura’s home under the pretense of buying her art, this time wearing a white shirt with French cuffs connected by gold links and a brown silk tie with an olive cast.

Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor in The Sandpiper (1965)

Throughout The Sandpiper, Burton wears a gold wristwatch that may be one of his own, possibly even the Patek Philippe automatic watch that Taylor had gifted him during the production of Cleopatra a few years earlier… though a Patek Philippe would be a considerably showy piece for a school headmaster to wear.

How to Get the Look

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt in The Sandpiper (1965)

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt in The Sandpiper (1965)

One of my favorite parts of fall fashion is returning tweed to the front of the wardrobe cycle, particularly in earthier shades like Richard Burton’s brown herringbone sports coat worn in The Sandpiper with this cool blue-on-blue shirt and tie combination or his later-seen white shirt and tonally coordinated olive brown tie.

  • Brown-and-black wide-scaled herringbone tweed single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with narrow notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, suede elbow-patched sleeves with “kissing” 3-button cuffs, and short double vents
  • Pale blue cotton poplin shirt with semi-spread collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Slate-blue silk straight tie
  • Dark olive brown flat front trousers with plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather cap-toe derby shoes
  • Dark brown socks
  • Patek Philippe yellow gold automatic wristwatch with champagne-colored dial and woven bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie or see a variety of movies that Liz and Dick made together with the Taylor and Burton Film Collection.

The Quote

That’s the miracle of man. He can imagine the awe and terror of an infinite universe and still not be frightened by it. And facing the mystery of time and the implacability of death, he can still laugh, work, create, and love.

The post Richard Burton’s Brown Tweed Jacket in The Sandpiper appeared first on BAMF Style.

Criss Cross: Burt Lancaster’s Loafer Jacket

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Burt Lancaster and Yvonne De Carlo in Criss Cross (1949)

Burt Lancaster and Yvonne De Carlo in Criss Cross (1949)

Vitals

Burt Lancaster as Steve Thompson, larcenous armored car driver

Los Angeles, Summer 1948

Film: Criss Cross
Release Date: January 19, 1949
Director: Robert Siodmak

Background

After directing the actor’s debut screen performance in quintessential film noir The Killers (1946), Robert Siodmak reteamed with Burt Lancaster three years later for Criss Cross, a quick, moody thriller that begins in media res with Steve Thompson (Lancaster) in the evening shadows of a nightclub parking lot, embracing his ex-wife Anna (Yvonne De Carlo).

As De Carlo makes her plea to the camera that Film Noir Foundation founder Eddie Muller called “noir’s defining moment”, we learn that the former spouses are forced into secrecy to avoid detection from Anna’s slick gangster boyfriend Slim Dundee (Dan Duryea), with whom Steve is planning a six-figure “chance of a lifetime” heist the following day.

In addition to Daniel Fuchs’ script that lives up to its name as these cops, chicks, and criminals double-cross each other at any opportunity, Criss Cross cements itself among the pantheon of noir cinema thanks to Franz Planer’s cinematography.

What’d He Wear?

If my #Noirvember posts have taught readers anything, I hope it’s that noir heroes don’t need a trench coat or fedora to claim their rightful place in this shadowy subgenre (though there will be plenty of those to come in posts to follow!)

As with the Great War decades earlier, the post-World War II years hastened more informality in menswear, popularizing sporty casual clothing to the extent that gents were leaving the house in untucked sport shirts, often worn sans tie or hat, especially in warmer and more laidback bergs like L.A.

One sartorial innovation to emerge during this period was the loafer jacket, alternatively known as the “Hollywood jacket” for the town with which it would become most associated. Considered a precursor to the safari-inspired leisure suits and jackets of the 1970s, these loafer jackets of the ’40s and ’50s crossed elements of classic sportswear with then-contemporary casual sensibilities for a piece that could be dressed up with collar and tie or, as Burt Lancaster wears it in Criss Cross, dressed down over a simple turtleneck jumper.

Dan Duryea and Burt Lancaster in Criss Cross

To his credit, Steve’s attire makes it easy for him to sartorially recover after a brawl while Slim Dundee has to retie his bow tie, straighten his lapels, etc.

Per their informality, it wasn’t unusual for loafer jackets to be two-toned, often with the body of the coat in a fabric or pattern differing from the collar and sleeves as seen in this Dreem Co. example or as worn by Howard Hughes for his famous “Spruce Goose” flight in November 1947.

Lancaster’s Criss Cross jacket presents a variation on the usual with the body of his loafer jacket constructed from a dark suede while the collar, sleeves, and the horizontal front and back shoulder yokes are checked in an alternating two-up, two-down houndstooth weave against a light napped wool ground, resembling the Scottish-originated gun club check. Even these checked areas are accented with dark suede, such as the elbow patches and the triangular shooting patch against the front right shoulder that nods to this jacket’s sporty origins.

The jacket has a full self-belt in dark suede that, when seen in tandem with the wide shoulders and roped sleeveheads, emphasizes former acrobat Lancaster’s athletic silhouette. In addition to the belted waist, the jacket has four woven leather buttons up the front. The left breast is detailed with a set-in pocket, covered with a short flap that more resembles a ticket pocket than the traditional breast pocket, the top of the flap aligned with the bottom of the shoulder yoke. The jacket also has flapped hip pockets and a flapped ticket pocket on the right side. The cuffs close with a single button.

Burt Lancaster in Criss Cross

Every angle of Lancaster’s loafer jacket reveals a new unique detail.

In these scenes at the start of Criss Cross, Steve wears his loafer jacket over a dark-colored turtleneck with a full, folded-over rollneck. Lightweight enough to be tucked into his trousers, the jumper appears to be an early example of a cotton turtleneck rather than wool.

CRISS CROSS

At the start of Criss Cross, Lancaster wears the turtleneck tucked into a pair of dark (though not as dark as the jumper or the suede of his jacket) long-rise trousers with double reverse pleats that provide a fashionably voluminous fit through the legs down to the bottoms, finished with turn-ups (cuffs). These trousers have side pockets and back pockets with only the left back pocket closing through a button. Lancaster’s belt is a narrow strip of brown leather with a darkened square single-prong buckle.

We may spot a continuity error with Steve’s shoes, as he wears dark leather cap-toe oxfords inside the club but these seem to transform to moc-toe casual shoes—not unlike boat shoes—by the time he has stepped outside.

CRISS CROSS

Note the difference in Steve’s footwear.

In the flashback to the gang planning the heist, he wears a medium-colored rayon gabardine long-sleeved sports shirt under his loafer jacket, detailed with a fashionably long point collar with a loop-closure when he fastens the plain “French placket” up to his neck. The shirt has two rounded-bottom patch pockets over his chest, each covered with a non-buttoning flap, and button-fastened cuffs.

CRISS CROSS

Steve takes a snack break from heist-planning.

With this sport shirt—or with just the white sleeveless A-shirt he wears under it—Lancaster again wears double reverse-pleated trousers and what’s likely a slim brown leather belt, though these trousers are a darker shade than his earlier pair, matching the darkness of the suede portions on his loafer jacket.

CRISS CROSS

Clad in his undershirt after Slim catches him alone with Anna, Steve comes up with the ultimate “it’s not what it looks like” excuse by claiming he was hatching a crooked scheme to make Slim rich.

Steve wears a square-cased wristwatch with what appears to be a plain-looking off-white square dial (though it may have two sub-registers), worn on a dark leather strap nearly as wide as the case itself.

CRISS CROSS

How to Get the Look

Burt Lancaster as Steve Thompson in Criss Cross (1949)

Burt Lancaster as Steve Thompson in Criss Cross (1949)

Burt Lancaster’s wardrobe in Criss Cross signals the mid-century shift in men’s fashions that embraced dressed-down sportswear more than ever before as Steve Thompson spends more of the film in casual pieces like his loafer jacket, sport shirts, and pullover jumpers than he does in suits and ties.

  • Houndstooth gun club-style check and dark suede-paneled 4-button loafer jacket with full self-belt, straight flapped hip pockets with right-side ticket pocket, short flapped breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • turtleneck or sports shirt
  • Dark wool double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, back pockets (with button-through left pocket), and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Brown narrow leather belt with darkened square single-prong buckle
  • Dark leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Dark socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Square-shaped wristwatch on dark leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

The way you know everything…

The post Criss Cross: Burt Lancaster’s Loafer Jacket appeared first on BAMF Style.


Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past

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Robert Mitchum as Jeff Markham in Out of the Past (1947)

Robert Mitchum as Jeff Markham in Out of the Past (1947)

Vitals

Robert Mitchum as Jeff Markham, aka Jeff Bailey, laconic gas station owner and former private detective

Bridgeport, California, to San Francisco via Lake Tahoe, Fall 1946

Film: Out of the Past
Release Date: November 25, 1947
Director: Jacques Tourneur
Costume Credit: Edward Stevenson

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Regarded among the best of classic film noir, Out of the Past showcases the genre’s quintessential elements: shadowy cinematography (thanks to Nicholas Musuraca), a story of double-cross and intrigue told in flashback, a charismatic antagonist, an alluring and ultimately deadly femme fatale, and—of course—a tough-talking, chain-smoking private eye light on words and sentiment:

Baby, I don’t care.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

A native of Bridgeport, Connecticut—as opposed to Bridgeport, California—Robert Mitchum wasn’t yet 30 when production began on this adaptation of Daniel Mainwaring’s novel Build My Gallows High, which Mainwaring had adapted himself with uncredited revisions from Frank Fenton and James M. Cain. The dangerous love triangle at Out of the Past‘s core was rounded out by then-newcomer Kirk Douglas and the 22-year-old Jane Greer as the mobster and moll, respectively, from whose influence—try as he might—Mitchum can never escape.

Kathie: Can’t you even feel sorry for me?
Jeff: I’m not going to try.

What’d He Wear?

When we meet Jeff Bailey, he’s dressed down for a fishing date with Ann Miller (Virginia Huston), a surprisingly wholesome fiancee presumptive for a noir hero though—to her credit—the wide-eyed Ann seems considerably uninterested and unbothered by the circumstances of Jeff’s shady past. After all, Jeff seems to have hung up his trench coat for good, clad in a comfortable suede jacket layered over a work shirt and V-neck sweater.

A visit from gangster Joe Stefanos (Paul Valentine) is enough to bring the past crashing back and, with it, Jeff’s former identity as private eye Jeff Markham with his trademark garb of a trench coat and dark felt wide-brimmed fedora, finished with grosgrain edge binding and a dark grosgrain band.

Virginia Huston and Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Ann retains her rosy, optimistic outlook even after the Jeff Bailey she knew and loved regresses into the more cynical Jeff Markham who carries the weight of his past deep in the pockets of his rumpled trench coat.

“Ah, same guy! Time-proof, weather-proof,” the nattily attired Whit declares, greeting Jeff with a pat on his trench-coated arm before offering: “Cigarette?” (“Smoking,” Jeff answers, holding up his smoldering cigarette; Mitchum’s line was reportedly an ad-lib after Kirk Douglas had continued with the scripted offer a cigarette despite Mitchum already having one in hand.)

Whit’s simple observation of Jeff’s “weather-proof” while patting his trench-coated arm may be one of the most explicit references in classic noir to its most signature fashion staple. Indeed, Whit’s comment also addresses why Jeff would be dressed for rain despite it being a sunny morning in the Sierra Mountains; particularly when dealing with the Whit Sterlings or Kathie Moffats of the world, Jeff knows he has to be prepared for anything. Thus, he dresses for the proverbial trenches of his past in the resilient outerwear that had been originally developed to withstand warfare, wickedness, and muck: the classic trench coat.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

In the chronology of Out of the Past, Jeff first wears his trench coat in flashback while working under the radar as a San Francisco private investigator until his life is shaken by Kathie killing his blackmailing ex-partner Jack Fisher (Steve Brodie). Years later, as Jeff is called to account at Whit’s Lake Tahoe estate, he sports the same threads.

Almost certainly made of khaki cotton gabardine in the tradition of the military trench coat standardized during World War I, Jeff’s coat has the classic double-breasted front with five rows of two buttons gently tapering down from top to bottom, a keystone-shaped arrangement of ten large four-hole buttons in mixed tan plastic. When not wearing the coat fully open, Jeff either fastens all ten buttons up to the neck (still leaving the double hook-and-eye closure undone) or leaves the top few rows undone.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Jeff buttons his trench coat to the neck for a night exploring the woods.

Jeff’s trench coat has raglan sleeves with a storm flap—also known as a gun patch when its wearers carried heavier artillery than a .38 snub—that extends onto the chest and, should he need it, can be fastened onto a smaller button under the left lapel that’s only seen when the coat is worn fully buttoned. The back has no flaps. The belt has the requisite D-rings added during World War I as well as a buckle, which Jeff almost always ignores as he consistently just knots the belt like a sash.

Aside from the surprising lack of a back vent, the coat is otherwise detailed and styled consistent with the traditional trench with shoulder straps (epaulettes), belted cuffs, and hip pockets below the belt that each close through a slanted single-button flap.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Another unseen aspect of Jeff’s trench coat: an ineradicable tobacco odor.

The coat is lined in a two-toned plaid that may provide a key to its manufacturer as leading outfitters like Aquascutum and Burberry would differentiate their respective coats by lining them in their house check patterns. Mitchum would wear an almost identical coat nearly 30 years later as Philip Marlowe in Farewell, My Lovely.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Jeff flashes us a glimpse at his trench coat’s checked lining before sitting down to breakfast at Schloss Sterling.

Jeff peels off the trench coat to reveal his two-piece suit constructed of Donegal tweed, a homespun Irish fabric characterized by the irregular nubs of colorful yarn woven among the differently colored warp and weft and, as Hardy Amies describes in ABCs of Men’s Fashion, “given a slight twist to hold these flecks of color in place.”

As Out of the Past was filmed in black and white with a dearth of color photography from the production, the true color of Mitchum’s screen-worn suit may be lost to history, though I suspect a light brown, gray, or taupe based on how frequently those colors have been used for Donegal tweed suiting. Especially layered under a trench coat for most of the action, a lighter-weight tweed like Donegal would be a smart choice for a transitional season like fall in the cool San Francisco climate.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Note the unique slubs woven among the contrasting “salt and pepper” Donegal tweed suiting.

The Donegal suit’s tailoring is consistent with 1940s trends, cut with plenty of drape for an ample but not baggy fit. Perhaps portending the fashions of a half-century later, the single-breasted jacket’s notch lapels have low gorge and roll to a low 3/2-roll button stance. The ventless jacket has a welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, and three-button cuffs.

The double reverse-pleated suit trousers rise to Mitchum’s natural waist, where he holds them up with a slim tan leather belt that closes through a well-polished single-prong buckle. They also have side pockets and the bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Robert Mitchum and Jane Greer in Out of the Past (1947)

At least Jeff has the courtesy to pull out Kathie’s chair for her while staring daggers at her over his cigarette smoke.

Jeff’s light-colored (but not white) cotton shirt has a plain “French placket”, breast pocket, button cuffs, and a soft and unruly spread collar that often refuses to remain within the confines of his suit jacket. The thickly crocheted knit tie widens out to its short, flat bottom and provides a harmonious textural compliment to the tweed suit.

Kirk Douglas and Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

In his uniquely striped jacket and dark sport shirt, the urbane villain Whit Sterling (Kirk Douglas) presents a slickly contrasting image to Jeff’s rumpled raincoat. In fact, if Jeff were holding a cheap cigar instead of his cigarette, you may think this was an unseen early pilot of Columbo.

Jeff balances his overall lack of informality with a pair of semi-brogue cap-toe oxfords, likely black calf leather, worn with dark socks. Though brogued footwear is now widely acceptable for business, at the time Out of the Past was filmed, the brogue were still considered an informal “country shoe” that would have been considered appropriate with his tweed suit, knitted tie, and less-than-businesslike profession and behavior.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Jeff steps into a gruesome discovery.

What to Imbibe

Meta Carson: Would you like a gin and tonic?
Jeff Bailey: Oh, that’d be nice.
Meta Carson: I may have whiskey, if you’d like.
Jeff Bailey: That’d be even nicer.

Years after his beer-soaked days and bourbon-laced nights in Acapulco with Kathie, Jeff finds himself enjoying straight whiskey with Meta Carson (Rhonda Fleming), the luscious legal secretary working for the man he’s been tasked to find.

Robert Mitchum and Rhonda Fleming in Out of the Past (1947)

Jeff takes advantage of Meta Carson’s hospitality.

Later that night, Jeff joins Meta and her boss, the targeted tax attorney Leonard Eels (Ken Niles), for a round of Martinis, served in coupes and garnished with a single olive skewered on a wooden toothpick.

Leonard Eels: All women are wonders because they reduce all men to the obvious.
Meta Carson: And so do martinis.

Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past (1947)

Jeff plucks out the olive before swilling one of Eels’ well-made martinis.

“Keep the martinis dry, I’ll be back,” Jeff advises after letting Leonard in on the real reason behind his visit to the Golden Gate City, adding the parting words: “Mr. Eels, you make a great martini.”

How to Get the Look

Robert Mitchum as Jeff Markham in Out of the Past (1947)

Robert Mitchum as Jeff Markham in Out of the Past (1947)

“There is a reason the detectives of 1940s and 1950s film noir always seem to wear a trench coat,” wrote Josh Sims for The Rake. “In film noir, it always seems to be threatening to rain.” In Out of the Past, Robert Mitchum’s “weather-proof” ex-gumshoe dresses for the proverbial trenches of his dangerous past by slipping into the familiar coat and hat that got him this far.

  • Donegal tweed suit:
    • Single-breasted 3/2-roll jacket with low-gorge notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Off-white cotton shirt with spread collar, plain front, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Medium-colored thick-crocheted knit tie with flat bottom
  • Tan leather belt with well-polished squared single-prong buckle
  • Black calf leather semi-brogue oxfords
  • Dark socks
  • Dark felt wide-brimmed fedora with dark grosgrain band
  • Khaki cotton gabardine trench coat with shoulder straps/epaulettes, right-side storm flap, 10-button double-breasted front, belt with D-rings, raglan sleeves with belted cuffs, and ventless back

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

In case I didn’t do enough to make a compelling case for this #Noirvember essential, I invite you to read these complimentary analyses from Movie Diva and 1000 Monkeys, the latter approaching Out of the Past from a fashion-focused perspective.

The Quote

Build my gallows high, baby.

The post Robert Mitchum in Out of the Past appeared first on BAMF Style.

Mitchum as Marlowe: Farewell, My Lovely

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Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe in Farewell, My Lovely (1975)

Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe in Farewell, My Lovely (1975)

Vitals

Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe, sharp-tongued private investigator

Los Angeles, Summer 1941

Film: Farewell, My Lovely
Release Date: August 8, 1975
Director: Dick Richards
Men’s Wardrobe Credit: G. Tony Scarano

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Robert Mitchum had been credentialed in film noir for more than a generation (as explored in Saturday’s #Noirvember post) before the actor first took on the role of Raymond Chandler’s iconic private eye, Philip Marlowe. Based on an Edgar Allen Poe Award-winning screenplay by David Zulag Goodman, Dick Richards’ adaptation of Chandler’s 1940 novel Farewell, My Lovely premiered just two days after Mitchum’s 58th birthday, making the actor almost double the age of the character he portrayed… but his grizzled presence is just right as he navigates his way through the sordid City of Angels on the eve of the second world war:

This past spring was the first that I’d felt tired and realized I was growing old. Maybe it was the rotten weather we’d had in L.A., maybe it was the rotten case I’d had, mostly chasing a few missing husbands… and then chasing their wives once I found them in order to get paid. Or maybe it was just the plain fact that I am tired and growing old.

We find Mitchum’s Marlowe in media res “holed up in a dingy hotel, ducking the police,” staring under the brim of his ubiquitous hat through the neon and Philip Morris cigarette smoke. He’s in a spot of trouble thanks to his latest client, the fearless, hulking ex-con Moose Malloy (Jack O’Halloran, in his film debut) who had hired Marlowe to track down his estranged girlfriend Velma. As usual, the police have little patience for the stubborn gumshoe, aside from his tenuous friendship with the refreshingly honest Lieutenant Nulty (Jack Ireland).

The case had kept Marlowe busy, working his way through derelict neighborhoods and derelict nightclubs, though this was literally familiar territory to Mitchum, who had prowled the streets of Long Beach as a delinquent teenager. As told in Lee Server’s biography of the actor, it was at Sixth and Main while handing out cash to vagrants that Mitchum encountered an aging patrolman who recognized him from his youth and greeting him: “So, you’re back.”

If Farewell, My Lovely particularly excels in any department, it’s echoing the pulp tone of Chandler’s pulp novels and deliciously recreating the seamy underbelly of pre-WWII L.A. thanks to David Shire’s evocative score, Dean Tavoularis’ period-perfect production design, and John A. Alonzo’s shadowy cinematography, buoyed by Mitchum’s world-weary delivery as he dodges gunmen (played by familiar faces like Burton Gilliam, Joe Spinell, and a pre-Rocky Sylvester Stallone) and navigates a network of blackmail, corruption, and prostitution with a surly, beer-swilling madam at its center.

Joe Spinell, Burton Gilliam, and Sylvester Stallone make up the cast of familiar faces that Marlowe battles in Farewell, My Lovely.

Joe Spinell, Burton Gilliam, and Sylvester Stallone make up the cast of familiar faces that Marlowe battles in Farewell, My Lovely.

Three years after Farewell, My Lovely opened to a mixed reception (but generally positive reviews for its leading man), Mitchum would return to the role in Michael Winner’s contemporary-set adaptation of The Big Sleep which found the action transported from 1930s Los Angeles to late ’70s England.

What’d He Wear?

I’m tired, Nulty. Everything I touch turns to shit! I’ve got a hat, a coat, and a gun… that’s it!

Okay, Marlowe, you said it yourself; let’s start at the top. No noir hero would be worth his salt without his fedora, and Marlowe tops his look with a light brown felt fedora detailed with the classic pinched crown, a self-bound brim, and a wide brown grosgrain band that shines during his neon-lit nights in the City of Angels.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

“Buy yourself a new suit, Marlowe,” sneers the smooth racketeer Laid Brunette (Anthony Zerbe) after paying the private eye $2,000. Indeed, Brunette may have noticed that Marlowe wears the same suit throughout Farewell, My Lovely. Unlike modern movies that tend to provide multiples for costumes even in non-action scenes where the clothing isn’t in jeopardy, Robert Mitchum had only one suit at his disposal provided by the wardrobe department, a striped dark navy double-breasted suit tailored for Victor Mature during the 1940s which was reportedly dismissed by Mitchum as “Victor Mature’s old farted-up suit.”

While I can’t speak to its suggested flatuous properties, the wool suiting is patterned with faded rust stripes that alternate between wide and thin, spaced apart against the navy ground.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

The double-breasted jacket has a full, 6×2-button wrap that would have been unseasonably warm for southern California, particularly with this heavier suiting worn in the middle of July. In addition to the two fastening buttons on the front, we even see Mitchum fasten the inner jigger button (or “anchor” button) during the rare moment inside the police station when he has his suit coat off. The then-fashionable sharp, wide peak lapels sweep across the chest, detailed with a buttonhole through each. The ventless jacket has a welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, and three vestigial buttons at the end of each cuff.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Wrapped in his double-breasted suit jacket, Marlowe tipples with his new drinking buddy, Jessie Florian (Sylvia Miles).

Victor Mature stood at 6’2″, so there would be little issue with his suit fitting the 6’1″ Robert Mitchum. As one would expect of a suit tailored during the era it was set, the double reverse-pleated trousers rise to the natural waist where Marlowe holds them up with a black edge-stitched leather belt that closes through a silver-toned single-prong buckle. The trousers also have side pockets and the bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Trippy.

“This car sticks out like spats at an Iowa picnic,” Marlowe warns Lindsay Marriott (John O’Leary) as he takes control of his flamboyant client’s chrome-accented Cadillac convertible. For his part, Marlowe eschews flashy kicks like spats and wears that most traditional of men’s footwear, a pair of black leather cap-toe derby shoes that take considerable abuse as Marlowe wears them in walking the dirty streets of L.A. His socks are also dark, either black or a dark navy to continue the trouser leg line.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Marlowe begins Farewell, My Lovely wearing a pale cotton shirt in a muted shade of ice-blue, detailed with a soft point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs. He wears the shirt for multiple days until it gets torn to shreds when he’s “sat down twice, shot full of hop, and kept under it ’til you’re as crazy as two waltzing mice” at Frances Amthor’s brothel. After the shirt’s destruction, he has his loyal newsstand clerk pal Georgie (Jimmie Archer) bring him a fresh white shirt—as well as his .38.

Like the previous incarnation of Philip Marlowe portrayed by Elliott Gould in The Long Goodbye (1973), the unchanging nature of Mitchum’s outfit even extends to his tie. This brick red tie is patterned with an all-over flecked gold cross-hatch pattern.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Marlowe’s ice-blue shirt makes its last stand at Frances Amthor’s brothel while he’s held at gunpoint (and apple-point).

Marlowe wears a white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt, introduced only a few years before the film’s setting by Samuel T. Cooper to accompany the Jockey briefs he had introduced in 1935.

Introduced as an “athletic shirt” (or “A-shirt”), this undershirt style leapt from popularity to infamy after a 1947 newspaper caption of tank top-clad wife-killer James Hartford Jr. led its pejorative “wife beater” nickname. Propelled by big-screen bad boys like Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire, Warren Beatty in Bonnie and Clyde, and ultimately Bruce Willis in Die Hard, the A-shirt’s reputation was salvaged to the point of being associated with rebellious outlaws rather than domestic abusers.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Georgie brings Marlowe a fresh white shirt to wear after his previous shirt was ruined at Frances Amthor’s brothel.

Of course, noir hero Marlowe dresses the part for Farewell, My Lovely‘s final act, wrapping himself in the classic trench coat we first saw hanging in the corner of his office. The knee-length coat is made from a drab khaki cotton gabardine, detailed with all the elements added to the famous coat when it was adapted to its modern form for British Army officers during World War I such as shoulder straps (epaulettes), single-button flapped pockets, and D-rings along the belt.

“Its story begins in nineteenth-century England with two pioneers in fabric innovation: John Emery and Thomas Burberry,” writes Josh Sims in Icons of Men’s Style, outlining both Aquascutum’s and Burberry’s valid claims in the trench coat’s development and popularity, including innovations in its waterproofed fabric and marketing to culture icons from military officers to movie stars.

In Out of the Past, Robert Mitchum contributed to cementing the trench coat as a quintessential aspect of the noir hero’s image. Nearly thirty years later, the matured Mitchum shows he hasn’t lost his knack for the look, even wearing it the same way by twisting and tying the self-belt like a sash rather than fastening it through the brown leather-covered buckle.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Every bit the noir hero with coat, hat, and gat.

The Farewell, My Lovely coat parallels many details of the Out of the Past coat, including the shape of the broad lapels, the five rows of two buttons each, the double hook-and-eye throat latch, and the storm flap that extends from the right shoulder onto the chest. Marlowe’s coat differs from Jeff Markham’s coat as it lacks the small buttons on the inside of the collar but has a full storm flap across the back as well as a single vent.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Refreshing to see a noir hero that shares my appreciation for Skee-Ball.

Marlowe wears a vintage gold wristwatch with a squared case and an off-white dial that appears to be worn on an expanding bracelet.

The Gun

“You carry a gun?” asks blackmail victim Lindsay Marriott. “Sometimes, yeah,” Marlowe confirms, and we’re all tipped off that the story’s about to get plenty more dangerous for everyone… until Marriott responds: “Well, you won’t need it.”

In his narration, Marlowe reflects on his credo that “as soon as anyone said you didn’t need a gun, you better take one along that worked.” As Philip Marlowe clearly values reliability when it comes to firearms, he chooses wisely with the Colt Official Police he pulls from a desk drawer, checking the load of six .38 Special rounds in the cylinder before slipping it into the side pocket of his trench coat. He later draws and fires when accompanying Moose to a trap set at a motel.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Marlowe fires his Colt Official Police when he runs into a trap set at a motel.

After Marlowe is beaten, drugged, and locked up in a side room at Frances Amthor’s cathouse, he overpowers the grinning cowboy henchman (Burton Gilliam) and commandeers the man’s own Official Police, a flashier nickel-plated model with white ivory grips, carried when confronting the madam herself.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Marlowe holds the cowboy’s nickel-plated Official Police on Frances Amthor (Kate Murtagh).

Finally, Marlowe disarms another hood named Nicky (Joe Spinell) of his blued Smith & Wesson “Military & Police” revolver when infiltrating Laird Brunette’s off-shore gambling ship, Lido. This venerable police revolver, also chambered in .38 Special, would be standardized as the Model 10 when Smith & Wesson began numbering its models in the 1950s.

Anthony Zerbe and Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Marlowe fires his commandeered Smith & Wesson .38 in Laird Brunette’s oceangoing office.

What to Imbibe

Farewell, My Lovely begins with Marlowe holed up in the dingy Casa Marina hotel with the only friend he has left, one Mr. I.W. Harper.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

Of course, Mr. Harper is not a man but a bourbon… nor was he ever actually a man, as it was an Isaac Wolfe “I.W.” Bernheim that steered the brand (and, yes, I’m sure there have been several men named I.W. Harper, but let’s not get pedantic.)

The German-born Bernheim and his brother Bernard had started selling liquor from a Paducah, Kentucky, shop in 1872. They eventually moved their operations to Louisville where they opened a distillery in the 1890s, choosing the name “I.W. Harper” for expanded marketability to the American public. By the time Prohibition was enacted in the United States several decades later, the Bernheim Brothers distillery was one of only ten that was allowed to continue producing bourbon for, uh, medicinal purposes.

Nearly a decade after Prohibition ended, I.W. Harper is depicted as the medicine of choice not just for Marlowe—who also keeps a bottle in his office—as well as the washed-up ex-showgirl Jessie Florian (Sylvia Miles). Before Marlowe calls on Mrs. Florian, he’s advised that “a pint of bourbon could turn out to be my best friend” so he brings her a pint of I.W. Harper as well.

Sylvia Miles and Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

“This stuff dies painless with me,” Mrs. Florian comments to Marlowe, adding: “Don’t know what hit it.”

Raymond Chandler tends to outline the favored liquor brands in his works, though I.W. Harper never makes an appearance in the Marlowe canon. If you’re looking for I.W. Harper’s literary cameos, you could find James Bond tippling with Marc-Ange Draco in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service or find a few characters in Walter Mosley’s hardboiled detective novel Devil in a Blue Dress enjoying it. In addition to being the favored spirit of former CIA chief James Jesus Angleton, I.W. Harper also receives a nod in The Way We Were when Hubbell Gardiner (Robert Redford) declares it to the the best bourbon.

Though Marlowe proves to be an I.W. Harper loyalist even when not trying to woo information from Mrs. Florian’s loose lips, he pulls down a bottle of Seagram’s 7 at Florian’s nightclub while waiting for the police to arrive after Moose Malloy kills the bartender.

Robert Mitchum in Farewell, My Lovely

How to Get the Look

Robert Mitchum and Charlotte Rampling in Farewell, My Lovely (1975)

Robert Mitchum and Charlotte Rampling in Farewell, My Lovely (1975)

Just as he had nearly three decades earlier in Out of the Past, Robert Mitchum slipped into noir’s “shining armor” of a trench coat and fedora while facing off against the hoods and hustlers in pre-war southern California.

  • Dark navy (with alternating rust stripes) wool suit:
    • Double-breasted jacket with wide peak lapels, 6×2-button front, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black edge-stitched leather belt with silver-toned single-prong buckle
  • White or ice-blue cotton shirt with point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Brick red cross-hatch patterned tie
  • Black leather cap-toe derby shoes
  • Dark navy socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Yellow gold square-cased wristwatch with square off-white dial on expanding bracelet
  • Light brown felt fedora with brown grosgrain ribbon and grosgrain edge binding
  • Khaki cotton gabardine trench coat with shoulder straps/epaulettes, right-side storm flap, 10-button double-breasted front, belt with D-rings and brown leather-covered buckle, raglan sleeves with belted cuffs, rear storm flap, and back vent

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and read Raymond Chandler’s 1940 novel.

The Quote

She was giving me the kind of look I could feel in my hip pocket.

The post Mitchum as Marlowe: Farewell, My Lovely appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Postman Always Rings Twice: John Garfield’s Blanket Robe

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John Garfield, understandably distracted by Lana Turner while filming The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

John Garfield, understandably distracted by Lana Turner while filming The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

Vitals

John Garfield as Frank Chambers, restless drifter-turned-diner worker

Laguna Beach, California, Summer 1945

Film: The Postman Always Rings Twice
Release Date: May 2, 1946
Director: Tay Garnett
Costume Supervisor: Irene

Background

As #Noirvember continues, let’s step away from the trench coats and fedoras to see how our hardboiled anti-heroes dress for a day at the beach. An ode to deviance that originated from James M. Cain’s 1934 novel, The Postman Always Rings Twice was adapted twice by European filmmakers before Hollywood dared to tackle it during the golden age of noir in the 1940s.

The lascivious source material had presented a challenge for presenting the story in a way that would satisfy the draconian Motion Picture Production Code and, even before it was published, a synopsis of Cain’s story had been deemed “definitely unsuitable for motion picture production” by the pearl-clutching Hays Office. After the two European adaptations were released, MGM was finally ready to proceed with its own version, inspired by the success of Double Indemnity, another piece from Cain’s poison pen centered around adultery and murder. By this time, nearly a dozen years into the rigid enforcement years of the Production Code, American filmmakers had mastered the art of stylized shadows and suggestive innuendo that allowed—and often enhanced—these films noir set in lurid worlds filled with unscrupulous and unsavory elements.

“It was on a side road outside of Los Angeles,” Frank Chambers begins his story, as the down-on-his-luck hitchhiker stumbles into the Twin Oaks diner boasting a $1.25 “best in the world” chicken dinner. The simple sign, “Man wanted,” echoes both the restaurant’s staffing needs as well as the sensuous needs of Cora (Lana Turner), the ambitious young platinum blonde who runs the roadside lunch room with her proud yet oblivious husband Nick (Cecil Kellaway)… and, even if you haven’t read or seen it, you probably already see where this is going.

While I was planning #Noirvember content for this month, I was particularly inspired to focus on this original MGM version of The Postman Always Rings Twice when my new friend Carla Valderrama shared with me some fascinating and little-known details about its star, John Garfield. Those of you who follow Carla’s amazing Instagram account, @thiswashollywood, are certainly already familiar with her expertise and ability to entertain while enlightening us about the stars, stories, and scandals of early 20th century Tinseltown.

Carla’s marvelous new book This Was Hollywood hit shelves yesterday, a dazzling volume inspired by the look of classic fan magazines while including in-depth research and incredible images that outshine anything mid-century readers would have found in the pages of Confidential or Photoplay. In anticipation of the book’s arrival after I pre-ordered my copy in August, I reached out to Carla who graciously answered a few questions that I had about both John Garfield as well as the intriguing world of old Hollywood:

How did your interest and passion in classic Hollywood begin?

When I was around 6 years old and saw Gone with the Wind for the first time, I became completely hooked. I used to take blank VHS tapes and record hundreds of hours from the Turner Classic Movies channel. I loved the escapism of classic Hollywood and then became super interested in the history of the movies and the stars.

People probably look to you for film recommendations all the time! What movie (or movies) do you find yourself recommending to people the most?

Singin’ in the Rain. It has everything: stars, music, dancing, an incredible story. It’s the ultimate in escapism. It’s a perfect movie and yet, somehow, gets better and better the more I watch it.

This Was Hollywood by Carla Valderrama

This Was Hollywood by Carla Valderrama, now available!

This period from the 1930s through the ’50s has often been referred to as the “golden age” of Hollywood as well as the golden age of men’s style. Which actors would you consider some of the pinnacles of elegance and style?

Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, and Sidney Poitier. The three Kings of Style for me.

Which classic actors and actresses should we as a society be talking about more? Do you anticipate your book will get those conversations started?

Well, not necessarily actors, but there needs to be way more attention paid to all the women filmmakers and pioneers. There is this misconception that women never had any power or influence in the film industry, and that is not really true, as I explain in my book.

As for actors, non-white stars like Sessue Hayakawa and the Nicholas Brothers have been virtually erased from film history books, despite their tremendous influence and talent. I go into depth about a lot of these stars in the book.

You’ve mentioned to me that John Garfield’s little-known story is a major part of your book. What can you tell us about it without giving too much away?

Before Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Montgomery Clift there was John Garfield. He was the OG, the first method actor star from the Group Theatre who revolutionized acting on the screen. But the government and Hollywood put a target on his back during the Red Scare, and their unjust persecution of him led to tragedy. To tell his story, I pored over thousands of documents from the government and archives across the country, as well as speaking with his daughter, Julie, who is fabulous.

Garfield may be best remembered today for The Postman Always Rings Twice, but which of his movies would you recommend?

The film noirs that he produced himself are the crown jewels for me: Body and Soul, Force of Evil, He Ran All the Way.

Can we expect another book from you someday?

Yes!!!! But it’ll be completely different!

What’d He Wear?

A 1940s-vintage Beacon Blanket Robe (Source: Style & Salvage)

A 1940s-vintage Beacon Blanket Robe (Source: Style & Salvage)

After spending a few weeks employed by Nick and Cora Smith, Frank Chambers slips out of his everyday duds to dress for a beach outing with Cora, leading to an intimate night swim in the Atlantic that brings the two closer.

Frank layers in a soft plush robe that extends past his knees, detailed with a woven two-tone rope belt that matches the piping along the shawl collar and across the top of each pocket. This “blanket robe” is almost certainly a cotton/acetate cloth manufactured by the Beacon Blanket Company of Swannanoa, North Carolina. The company had been founded in Massachusetts in 1904 but moved its operations to North Carolina a generation later to be nearer to the cotton needed for its soft blankets and comfortable robes (source: Vintage Fashion Guild).

Primarily popular from the 1920s through the 1950s, Beacon blanket robes were frequently patterned in plaids or ombre Native American-inspired designs as Frank appears to be wearing on his dark robe, detailed with the signature rope-style belt and trim.

In addition to their mid-century popularity, vintage Beacon Blanket Robes have been found on contemporary TV shows like The Big Bang Theory and Criminal Minds. In fact, many vintage examples can still be found in fine condition today, such as this red plaid (via eBay), red Deco pattern (via Etsy), blue with an ombre pattern (via Ballyhoo Vintage Clothing), mauve with an ombre pattern (via WorthPoint), and this brown ombre-diamond pattern (via Style & Salvage) that looks closest in color and pattern to John Garfield’s screen-worn robe.

John Garfield and Lana Turner in The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

Under his dark, uniquely patterned Beacon Blanket Robe, Frank wears a white towel around his neck that echoes Cora’s white costumes. Does this signify his sinister influence enveloping the young woman… or was it just the most practical towel for Frank to grab before his day at the beach?

An itinerant laborer, Frank hasn’t prioritized buying the appropriate footwear for a day at the beach so he’s forced to incongruously sport his lace-up work boots. These ankle-high boots appear to have dark brown “roughout” sueded leather uppers and crepe soles, derby-laced with four pairs of metal eyelets and three sets of speed hooks.

John Garfield in The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

John Garfield and Lana Turner in The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

When the time comes to join Cora for a dip into the waves, Frank peels off his robe to reveal a pair of dark swimming trunks—likely black—with a short inseam and a long rise up to John Garfield’s natural waist.

As modern water-resistant fabrics had yet to be innovated for swimwear, Frank’s trunks are likely made from treated wool like these vintage woolen knit Malibu shorts from The Pacific Knitting Mills (via Everything But the House) or these navy Gantner Wikies briefs (via Etsy).

Frank’s swim shorts have a flapped pocket on the left thigh and belt loops, through which he wears a khaki cotton web belt not unlike those issued to U.S. military service members. The belt closes through a brass slider buckle.

Decades later, Tom Selleck would famously wear khaki web belts with shorts and beach-wear—including those notorious Aloha shirts—as Thomas Magnum on Magnum, P.I. These simple but reliable belts can still be purchased from military gear suppliers like Rothco (via Amazon).

How to Get the Look

Original May 1946 promotional art from the opening of The Postman Always Rings Twice, featuring Lana Turner and John Garfield in their beach-wear

Original May 1946 promotional art from the opening of The Postman Always Rings Twice, featuring Lana Turner and John Garfield in their beach-wear.

Frank Chambers blends the beach-going comfort of his blanket robe with the military-inspired functionality of his belt and boots for his fateful evening crashing in the waves with sultry “she-devil” Cora Smith.

  • Dark ombre-patterned cotton/acetate Beacon “blanket robe” with two-tone twisted rope belt and trim
  • White towel
  • Black short-inseam swim trunks with belt loops and flapped left-thigh pocket
  • Khaki cotton web belt with brass slider buckle
  • Dark brown suede leather derby-laced ankle boots with crepe soles

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and James M. Cain’s original novel. If you’re interested, there was also a decent Bob Rafelson-directed remake in 1981 starring Jack Nicholson and Jessica Lange in the central roles.

I also recommend Carla Valderrama’s magnificent This Was Hollywood, and make sure you’re following @thiswashollywood on Instagram! You can also catch Carla tonight on Turner Classic Movies starting at 8 p.m. EST.

The Quote

Right then, I should’ve walked out of that place, but I couldn’t make myself do it. She had me licked, and she knew it.

The post The Postman Always Rings Twice: John Garfield’s Blanket Robe appeared first on BAMF Style.

Budget Fall Flannel for 2020

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Bruce Willis in Die Hard 2 (1990), John Saxon in Moonshine County Express (1977), Dennis Haysbert in Far From Heaven (2002), and Rock Hudson in All That Heaven Allows (1955)After I shared some of my favorite budget-friendly movie and TV-inspired summer shirts this year, I also received some interest in a similar post for the autumn so my thoughts immediately went to rounding up some fall-friendly flannel shirts, jackets, and shackets based on my favorite types of movies to watch around this time of year.

My taste in fall movies runs from the rough to the refined. Having grown up watching The Dukes of Hazzard, I always had a soft spot for the low-budget “hick flicks” (and I use the term endearingly) often rolled out during the ’70s by groups like American International Pictures or New World Pictures. The latter distributed Moonshine County Express, one of many movies I saw for the first time while under quarantine this year, and a clear bridge between Burt Reynolds’ early fare like White Lightning and the more formulaic world of the Duke boys in Hazzard County.

Of course, it also wouldn’t be fall without the melodramatic sophistication of Douglas Sirk or his romantic heroes with a taste for flannel as modeled by Rock Hudson in All That Heaven Allows or by his spiritual successor Dennis Haysbert in the autumnal drama Far From Heaven, Todd Haynes’ 2002 ode to Sirk.

Finally, the holidays means we’re in Die Hard season with both the 1988 original film and its 1990 sequel each set during an action-packed Christmas Eve. Bruce Willis’ cynical hero may be tragically underdressed for his adventure in Nakatomi Tower, but he makes up for it two years later by keeping his shirt and shoes while battling baddies in the snow.

Please feel free to add your own observations or flannel favorites in the comments!

All prices, ratings, and availability as of November 17, 2020.


John McClane’s Black Watch Plaid Shirt in Die Hard 2

“How can the same shit happen to the same guy twice?” John McClane (Bruce Willis) groans as yet another Christmas Eve finds him crawling through a ventilation shaft between battles against well-armed terrorists. At least this time, he’s dressed in layers for the snowy airport battle, eventually peeling off his tweed topcoat and ribbed-knit wool Abercrombie & Fitch shawl-collar sweater to face off in his checked Banana Republic shirt, corduroy Cerruti trousers, and—perhaps most importantly for McClane—shoes!

McClane’s shirt stays intact throughout his ordeal, protected by borrowed outerwear like an engineer’s parka and a fireman’s jacket. This extended screen time provides plenty of opportunities to identify the plaid, a small-scaled and muted variation of the classic Black Watch tartan. Heritage of Scotland traces this tartan to 18th century watch companies in the Scottish Highlands, specifically Clan Campbell and one from each of Clan Munro, Clan Fraser of Lovat, and Clan Grant. The Black Watch tartan may have originated with the latter and remains popular with its blue, green, and black check.

Bruce Willis as John McClane in Die Hard 2 (1990)

John McClane prepares to spend yet another Christmas Eve feeling like a TV dinner in Die Hard 2 (1990).

The Budget Buy:

Goodthreads Men’s Standard-Fit Long-Sleeve Brushed Flannel Shirt

Amazon
Goodthreads Men’s Standard-Fit Long-Sleeve Brushed Flannel Shirt
(also available in Slim Fit)

Price: up to $30

Color: Navy Black Watch Plaid

Material: 100% cotton

Average customer rating: 4.6/5 stars (1,080 reviews)

Do I own it? No

An all-cotton brushed flannel shirt for only $30 and checked in a classic, masculine tartan like Black Watch plaid? This could be an easy staple for any guy looking to build a more mature casual wardrobe or an affordable workhorse shirt for the stylish gent.

Medium Range:

Pocket Flannel Shirt in Standard Fit from Gap

Gap
Pocket Flannel Shirt in Standard Fit

Price: $59.95

Color: Black Watch Plaid

Material: 100% cotton

Average customer rating: 4.3/5 stars (3 reviews)

Do I own it? No

Like Willis’ screen-worn shirt from Gap’s sister brand Banana Republic, this flannel shirt takes a more muted approach to Black Watch plaid.

The Investment:

Men’s Lodge Classic Long Sleeve Button Front Wool Shirt from Pendleton

Pendleton Woolen Mills
Men’s Lodge Classic Long Sleeve Button Front Wool Shirt

Price: up to $149

Color: Black Watch Tartan

Material: 100% wool

Average Customer Rating: 4.6/5 stars (74 reviews)

Do I own it? No

While perhaps too warm or itchy for an action-packed evening fighting terrorists, this classic Tartan plaid woolen flannel shirt from one of America’s premier woolen mills would be the perfect layer for an autumn or winter evening spent by the fire with a loved one… especially if you saved that loved one during a terrorist takeover of an L.A. skyscraper during the previous holiday season.

You can read more about the original look in my BAMF Style post. Though I don’t own any of the shirts listed above, I do have some comfortable Black Watch plaid flannel shirts from J. Crew as well as Target’s house brand Goodfellow & Co. that I would have recommended had I written this post in previous years!


John Saxon’s Yellow MacLeod Tartan Shirt in Moonshine County Express

Before the Duke boys tore up Hazzard County in the General Lee, there was another hard-driving Mopar driver running moonshine through the South… and I’m not talking about Burt Reynolds!

Moonshine County Express (1977) was standard low-budget fare from producer Roger Corman, with the Brooklyn-born John Saxon in the role usually played by Reynolds as he teamed up with the gun-toting Hammer sisters—including one played by Maureen McCormick, aka Marcia Brady—to take on the corrupt and corpulent liquor kingpin trying to rule their Kentucky county with a bloody fist.

John Saxon in Moonshine County Express (1977)

John Saxon drives into town as the reckless moonshiner J.B. Johnson in his yellow MacLeod Tartan plaid flannel shirt in Moonshine County Express (1977).

Budget Buy #1:

Urban Pipeline Brushed Flannel Button-Down Shirt in yellow plaid cotton/polyester from Kohl’s

Kohl’s
Urban Pipeline Brushed Flannel Shirt

Price: $18.69 (discounted from $36.00)

Color: Yellow Plaid

Material: 80% cotton, 20% polyester

Average customer rating: 4.3/5 stars (6 reviews)

Do I own it? Yes, and it’s definitely comfortable!

With a price like that, how could I pass it up? The pattern isn’t exactly a MacLeod Tartan (nor does it claim to be), and the 20% polyester blend cheapens the quality below what 100% cotton would feel, but if you’re looking to take this basic yellow plaid flannel for a spin, you could test-drive much worse entry-level models than this affordable workhorse.

Budget Buy #2:

Amazon Essentials Slim-Fit Long-Sleeve Plaid Flannel Shirt in yellow plaid cotton

Amazon Essentials
Slim-Fit Long-Sleeve Plaid Flannel Shirt

Price: $18.50

Color: Yellow Plaid

Material: 100% cotton

Average customer rating: 4.6/5 stars (2,345 reviews)

Do I own it? No

Just a few bucks more for 100% cotton, the only reason I passed this up in favor of the Kohl’s shirt was that my size (large) was sold out at the time of purchase; I also liked having a second chest pocket à la Saxon. Given the overwhelmingly positive reviews, I may have to revisit once I see my size back in stock.

The Investment:

Midweight flannel shirt in yellow/black plaid from J. Crew

J. Crew
Midweight Flannel Shirt

Price: $54.50 (discounted from $89.50)

Color: Yellow Black

Material: 100% cotton

Average Customer Rating: N/A

Do I own it? No

Available in classic, slim, and tall fits, this all-cotton brushed flannel work shirt from J. Crew may be the best compromise between price and quality, even if the pattern still doesn’t quite match the traditional MacLeod tartan.

The Big Investment:

Black & Yellow Flannel Tartan Mullen Shirt from Noon Goons

Noon Goons
Black & Yellow Flannel Tartan Mullen Shirt

Price: $400

Color: Yellow Plaid

Material: 100% polyester

Average Customer Rating: 5/5 stars (2 reviews)

Do I own it? No

While still not exactly a true plaid in the Clan MacLeod tartan tradition (which has proven surprisingly difficult to find), this shirt comes surprisingly pricy for being all-polyester, though the manner in which the model wears it in some shots suggests that it could be an effective shirt-jacket with its full lining and inner pocket.


Dennis Haysbert’s Olive Work Shirt in Far From Heaven

Marketing shortcuts often equate flannel with plaid, though the soft flannel weave can look just as good—and, in some cases, better—in a solid-colored cloth, particularly in an earthier color like this forest green work shirt that Raymond Deagan (Dennis Haysbert) wears under one of his many colorfully patterned flannel jackets in Far From Heaven. The affable gardener has already established himself as a hard worker, but this hard-wearing olive-hued two-pocket shirt reinforces his diligent reputation with its similarities to military service shirts of the era.

Dennis Haysbert in Far From Heaven (2002)

Dennis Haysbert in Far From Heaven (2002)

Budget Buy #1:

Sonoma Goods for Life Brushed Flannel Shirt from Kohl's

Sonoma Goods for Life Brushed Flannel Shirt from Kohl’s

Kohl’s
Sonoma Goods for Life Brushed Flannel Shirt

Price: $16.99 (discounted from $40)

Color: Pine Heather Solid

Material: 100% cotton flannel

Average customer rating: 4.4/5 stars (31 reviews)

Do I own it? No

Unlike the above offering from Kohl’s, this Sonoma Goods for Life shirt is made from 100% cotton at a currently unbeatable price.

Budget Buy #2:

Amazon Essentials Regular-Fit Long-Sleeve Solid Flannel Shirt

Amazon Essentials Regular-Fit Long-Sleeve Solid Flannel Shirt

Amazon Essentials
Regular-Fit Long-Sleeve Solid Flannel Shirt
(also available in Slim Fit)

Price: $20.00

Color: Olive Heather

Material: 100% cotton flannel

Average customer rating: 4.5/5 stars (1,022 reviews)

Do I own it? No

In Amazon’s quest to offer a range of menswear staples in all shapes and shades (a necessary step in any global takeover), they wisely include these affordable and—based on the reviews—comfortable flannel shirts in a variety of colors.

Investment #1:

L.L. Bean Chamois Shirt in dark loden brushed cotton

L.L. Bean Chamois Shirt in dark loden brushed cotton

L.L. Bean
Men’s Chamois Shirt, Traditional Fit

Price: $59.95

Color: Dark Loden

Material: 100% brushed Portuguese cotton

Average Customer Rating: 4.5/5 stars (1,810 reviews)

Do I own it? No

The Maine-headquartered outfitter touts their thick chamois work shirt as a development straight from the founder, Leon Leonwood Bean, more than 90 years ago so it’s no stretch to imagine that a rugged gardener in mid-century New England would have one of these in his fall wardrobe.

Investment #2:

The Heavyweight Overshirt from Everlane

The Heavyweight Overshirt from Everlane

Everlane
The Heavyweight Overshirt

Price: $78

Color: Heathered Green

Material: 100% cotton twill

Average Customer Rating: 4.78/5 stars (401 reviews)

Do I own it? No

Branded as an overshirt though versatile enough to fit the layering needs of any chilly climate, this sharp heavyweight flannel top nearly matches all the details of Haysbert’s screen-worn shirt from the dark buttons up the placket and through each pocket flap to the masculine structure provided by the heavier twill fabric.


Rock Hudson’s Buffalo Plaid Hunting Jacket in All That Heaven Allows

Set across a New England fall into the holiday season, All That Heaven Allows offers a parade of fine flannels modeled by a robust Rock Hudson, who sports a variety of shirts, jackets, and suits all made from this rugged cloth. As landscaper-slash-Christmas tree merchant Ron Kirby, Hudson reaches his sartorial summit once the snow falls and he layers a classic buffalo-checked Woolrich hunting coat over navy blue flannel work shirts.

While it’s an arguably good look, one should be wary before accessorizing with that ear-flapped hunting cap as one of my favorite tweets from @NitrateDiva wisely poses the question asking “how Rock Hudson manages to look this good while dressed like Elmer Fudd?”

Rock Hudson as Ron Kirby in All That Heaven Allows (1955)

Toting a shotgun while clad in his hunter’s cap and buffalo plaid coat, Ron Kirby (Rock Hudson) looks every bit the outdoorsman for a holiday reunion with his beloved in All That Heaven Allows (1955).

The Budget Buy:

Fleece-Lined Buffalo Plaid Flannel Coat from Runcati

Fleece-Lined Buffalo Plaid Flannel Coat from Runcati

Runcati
Fleece-Lined Buffalo Plaid Flannel Coat

Price: $31.98

Color: Red

Material: cotton and polyester

Average customer rating: 4.5/5 stars (8 reviews)

Do I own it? No

The cotton and polyester shell may not be ideal for a go-to winter work coat, but the affordability of this Runcati jacket ensures it will have a place among gents who may admire the classic rugged look of buffalo plaid outerwear without requiring the fortitude of wool.

Medium Range:

The Outdoorsman Buffalo Plaid Jacket from Legendary Whitetails

The Outdoorsman Buffalo Plaid Jacket from Legendary Whitetails

Legendary Whitetails
The Outdoorsman Buffalo Plaid Jacket

Price: $79.99

Color: Buffalo Plaid

Material: 70% wool blended with 30% synthetic fibers

Average Customer Rating: 4.7/5 stars (1,068 reviews)

Do I own it? No

Though lacking some specific details of Rock Hudson’s screen-worn hunting coat, this warm, fleece-lined Legendary Whitetails coat may be the best of all worlds with its primarily wool shell construction, well-reviewed reputation, and affordable price tag. If you like Hudson’s look but prefer the convenience of a zipper to buttons or snaps, this is the coat for you. Also available from the Legendary Whitetails website.

Cozy Sherpa-Lined Plaid Wool-Blend Shirt Jacket from Old Navy

Cozy Sherpa-Lined Plaid Wool-Blend Shirt Jacket from Old Navy

Old Navy
Cozy Sherpa-Lined Plaid Wool-Blend Shirt Jacket

Price: $79.99

Color: Red Plaid

Material: 49% wool blended with 51% synthetic fibers

Average Customer Rating: N/A

Do I own it? No

It’s got the snaps, the flaps, and the offbeat take on classic buffalo plaid, here a more shadow-checked yin to the wide-scaled yang of Hudson’s screen-worn coat. Still not quite as hard-wearing as a serious outdoorsman like Ron Kirby would regularly wear for the winter but still a  stylish and affordable alternative.

Men's Buffalo Plaid Two Pocket Hooded Shirt Jacket from Levi's

Men’s Buffalo Plaid Two Pocket Hooded Shirt Jacket from Levi’s

Levi’s
Men’s Buffalo Plaid Two Pocket Hooded Shirt Jacket

Price: up to $87.72

Color: Red Buffalo Plaid

Material: 77% polyester, 12% wool, 7% rayon, 4% acrylic

Average Customer Rating: 4.4/5 stars (19 reviews)

Do I own it? No

The weather-proofed construction may mean this is lighter on wool than we’d prefer, this Levi’s coat pays homage to Hudson’s classic coat with its snap-closure front and chest pockets while adding an attached hood for a modern modern look that may appeal to some… while turning off others.

The Investment:

Woolrich Men's Buffalo Hunting Jacket

Woolrich Men’s Buffalo Hunting Jacket

Woolrich
Men’s Buffalo Hunting Jacket

Price: $297 (discounted from $495)

Color: Red Buffalo

Material: 60% wool, 30% polyester, 10% nylon

Average Customer Rating: 5/5 stars (3 reviews)

Do I own it? No

No discussion of buffalo plaid hunting coats would be complete without reference to Woolrich, the venerated Pennsylvania brand that developed the distinctive black and red buffalo check upon the company’s inception in 1830 and remains “a symbol for Americana and workwear… one of Woolrich’s most powerful visual codes from season to season.”

Thankfully, this OG brand maintains an “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” approach to its reputable outerwear so your hunting jacket purchased in 2020 would offer the same warmth and reliability as the vintage items referenced in the current jacket’s reviews or the Woolrich coat Hudson himself sports as Ron Kirby. Thus, you’d be well-suited to pick up a shirt, jacket, or shacket (like this Buffalo Stag Over Shirt) from Woolrich when incorporating that mid-century masculinity into your winter workwear.

You can read more about the original look in my BAMF Style post.


Though different from the usual BAMF Style format, I want to reinforce that this is a completely organic post, not sponsored or promoted by any of the brands mentioned. However, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from Amazon.com, and I may receive commissions for certain purchases made through Amazon links.

The post Budget Fall Flannel for 2020 appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Sopranos: Paulie’s Black Velvet Tracksuit

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Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "The Strong, Silent Type", the tenth episode of the fourth season of The Sopranos.

Tony Sirico as “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri in “The Strong, Silent Type”, the tenth episode of the fourth season of The Sopranos.

Vitals

Tony Sirico as “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri, mob captain and Army veteran

New Jersey, Spring 2002 and Fall 2006

Series: The Sopranos
Episodes:
– “The Strong, Silent Type” (Episode 4.10, dir. Alan Taylor, aired 11/17/2002)
– “Moe n’ Joe” (Episode 6.10, dir. Steve Shill, aired 5/14/2006)
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

Background

November 21 was proclaimed World Television Day by the United Nations in 1996, so this Saturday evening feels like a fine opportunity to pop down in your favorite plastic-covered chair to read about one of the greatest TV shows of all time. And, as I discovered far too late in life, there are few outfits more comfortable for such indulgence than a velvet tracksuit.

I feel that I’ve demonstrated several times my appreciation for the once-in-a-lifetime character of Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos, a perfect character for the world of the acclaimed series as well as a role that could have only been played by Tony Sirico, the Brooklyn-born actor and one-time “half a wiseguy” who lent his quirks, mannerisms, style, and even biographical details to the character.

It seems like nearly each new episode of Michael Imperioli and Steve Schirripa’s “Talking Sopranos” podcast reveals yet another Sirico story, whether he was spraying Binaca in his co-stars’ mouths or microwaving his mail to *checks notes* …neutralize any potential anthrax that terrorists may have sent among his correspondence.

Given Sirico’s reported germaphobic tendencies, he no doubt approved of The Sopranos‘ set decorators providing Paulie with a plastic-covered easy chair just those we may remember from our nonnas’ living rooms. (Why the plastic? The practice reportedly originated in mid-century America among first- and second-generation families—including but certainly not limited to Italian-Americans like my own family members—who sought inexpensive solutions that would extend the longevity of their furniture.)

What’d He Wear?

For as much as I’ve already written about Paulie Walnuts’ distinctive sense of style—an extension of Tony Sirico himself—this marks the first time I’m focusing on one of the dozens of tracksuits that Sirico famously wore on the series. In the spirit of today’s observance, I selected one that not only makes multiple appearances but also seems to be a particular favorite of Paulie’s for quiet evenings at home in front of the tube that find him ultimately distracted by Tony.

The evidence?

  1. Paulie introduces this tracksuit while catching a ballgame in “The Strong, Silent Type” (Episode 4.10) under the auspices of his boss’ Napoleon-esque likeness above the mantle behind him.
  2. Sitting at home in front of the TV in “Moe n’ Joe” (Episode 6.10), Paulie takes a call from Tony and reveals that he’s secretly been dealing with prostate cancer, proving himself to be an unlikely contender for the “strong, silent type” that Tony so admires… though, in the spirit of another fourth season episode title, there’s little doubt that Paulie watches far too much television!
Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "Moe n' Joe", the tenth episode of the sixth season of The Sopranos.

“Well actually, T, I’ve been dealing with some shit. Cancer, to tell you the truth.”

In both episodes, Paulie wears a black velvet tracksuit with tan and beige trim, made by Falcon Bay Sportswear as described in its Christie’s auction listing from June 2008. Founded in 1998, Falcon Bay is a wholesale outfitter that specializes in men’s casual clothing, particularly budget-friendly offerings and big-and-tall sizes.

The zip-up track jacket has slanted-entry welt hand pockets and elasticized cuffs and hem. The tan-and-beige piping crosses the chest in the front and back as well as extending down each shoulder from the neck to the upper arm, where the piping rings around each sleeve.

The elastic-waisted track pants have the same tan-and-beige piping running down the side seam of each leg, reinforcing the tracksuit’s reputation as “the Bensonhurst tuxedo” as this detail mimics the classic silk tape that runs down the sides of formal trousers.

Paulie wears the track jacket zipped up over his white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt, a wiseguy staple also favored by his colleagues Tony and Christopher, to name a few. Before its was tacked with the unsavory “wife beater” moniker following a 1947 murder case, these undershirts were marketed as the “athletic shirt”—or “A-shirt” for short—after they were pioneered by Jockey in the 1930s.

Tony Sirico as Paulie Walnuts on The Sopranos

Even outside his living room, Paulie dresses for comfort in his black velvet tracksuit as seen here in the back room of the Bing in “Moe n’ Joe” (Episode 6.10).

Paulie’s clean white loafers are an essential part of his image (and consistent with his distaste for shoelaces), established early in the show’s run and worn through the last season, prominently featured in “Remember When” (Episode 6.15) as Paulie pulls out a trio of identical pairs to pack for a trip to Florida with Tony. Like so many other aspects of the character, these all-white leather Vikings split-toe slip-ons were reportedly another Sirico favorite that made their way onto the screen. At least in “The Strong, Silent Type”, we see that he wears them with a pair of plain white ribbed crew socks.

Around his neck, Paulie wears a gold rope-chain necklace with a textured cross pendant, symbolic of his Catholic beliefs and upbringing…even if his faith isn’t reflected by his violent behavior. Paulie favors gold jewelry like his friends, and—by the fourth season—he frequently wears a heavy yellow gold figaro-link bracelet on his right wrist.

Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "Moe n' Joe", the tenth episode of the sixth season of The Sopranos.

Velvet tracksuit, gold jewelry, non-laced white loafers, and a plastic-covered chair: Paulie has all the ingredients he needs for a comfortable night in during “The Strong, Silent Type” (Episode 4.10).

Of course, neither the cross or bracelet are nearly as integral to Paulie’s image as his pinky ring, an affectation worn by many in the world of The Sopranos but perhaps most associated with Sirico and his famous three-finger point. Sirico wore his own rings on the series, always gold and detailed with a black onyx stone. “They say Mafia wear pinkie rings, but men of style wear pinkie rings,” Sirico told The New York Times‘ Ilene Rosenzweig for “Ba-Da-Bing! Thumbs Up for the Pinkie Ring,” before the second season aired. “I’ve been wearing it for 30 years… it’s part of my life.”

Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "Moe n' Joe", the tenth episode of the sixth season of The Sopranos.

Like many of his mobbed-up cohorts, Paulie cycled through several wristwatches over the course of the series, primarily rotating between a duo of Movado Esperanza stainless steel watches, one PVD-coated in yellow gold and another in a silver finish. These distinctive watches have Movado’s minimalist “museum dial” in matte black with a gold-toned concave dot at 12:00 and gold hands, held to the wrist by Movado’s signature open-linked “free-falling” bracelet design.

What to Imbibe

Just because Paulie isn’t drinking in these scenes doesn’t mean you can’t mix yourself a well-deserved weekend concoction! Both the name and hedonistic spirit of Paulie’s garb lead me to recommend the Black Velvet, a simple but surprising drink created by gently pouring equal parts stout and sparkling wine in a beer tankard or, for a more refined presentation, a champagne flute.

Perhaps even more appropriate given Paulie’s morose obsession with and fear of death, the Black Velvet was reportedly first made by a bartender at Brooks’, an exclusive London gentlemen’s club, to mourn the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s Prince Consort, in December 1861. In the decades to follow, the Black Velvet shed its funereal connotations and was even the celebratory concoction of choice at Humphrey Bogart’s 1938 wedding to his third wife, Mayo Methot, according to Mark Bailey in Of All the Gin Joints: Stumbling through Hollywood History… though the Battling Bogarts’ turbulent marriage may suggest that the couple was indeed damned by their decision to toast with a drink developed in mourning.

The Black Velvet also shares a connection to James Bond, as Ian Fleming’s novel Diamonds Are Forever includes a brief mention of the drink when agent 007 offers to treat Bill Tanner to lunch including “dressed crab and a pint of black velvet.”

The 007 connection made the Black Velvet a reasonable candidate for inclusion in Shaken: Drinking with James Bond & Ian Fleming, where the authors tout it as “one of the great many drinks which combine two seemingly incongruous ingredients to great effect” and suggest a three-to-one ratio of chilled champagne to Guinness, perhaps with two teaspoons of rich demerara syrup added.

How to Get the Look

Tony Sirico as "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri in "Moe n' Joe", the tenth episode of the sixth season of The Sopranos.

Tony Sirico as “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri in “Moe n’ Joe”, the tenth episode of the sixth season of The Sopranos.

If you don’t already have a comfortable tracksuit, this may be the time to see if Paulie Walnuts’ loungewear of choice will work for you… whether you’re loafing around your house or dressing for comfort after an indulgent Thanksgiving!

  • Black velvet tracksuit with tan-and-white piped trim:
    • Zip-up track jacket with set-in sleeves and slanted hand pockets
    • Elastic-waisted pants with side pockets and elasticized bottoms
  • White leather split-toe Vikings loafers
  • Movado Esperanza 0607059 gold-coated stainless steel watch with black minimalist dial on gold-finished “free-falling” open-link bracelet
  • Gold figaro-link chain bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with black onyx stone

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series, and follow my friend @tonysopranostyle on Instagram for more looks into the mobbed-up menswear of The Sopranos.

For fans of the show, I always recommend picking up a copy of The Soprano Sessions by Matt Zoller Seitz and Alan Sepinwall.

The Quote

I must have done good things in my life.

The post The Sopranos: Paulie’s Black Velvet Tracksuit appeared first on BAMF Style.

Mad Men: Burgundy Knitwear for Don Draper’s Lonely Thanksgiving

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Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 4.01: "Public Relations")

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 4.01: “Public Relations”)

Vitals

Jon Hamm as Don Draper, lonely ad man

Greenwich Village, New York, Thanksgiving 1964

Series: Mad Men
Episode: “Public Relations” (Episode 4.01)
Air Date: July 25, 2010
Director: Phil Abraham
Creator: Matthew Weiner
Costume Designer: Janie Bryant

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

In contrast to the swaggering image he presents as an advertising hot shot, Don Draper has been reduced to a very lonely man at the start of Mad Men‘s fourth season.

A year estranged from his ex-wife Betty with whom he’s splitting custody of his children, Don spends Thanksgiving essentially alone, aside from a few hours in the paid company of Candace (Erin Cummings), a courtesan he calls to slap him in bed to distract him from his solitude… though this would hardly be the last of Don’s self-destructive holiday trysts.

Erin Cummings and Jon Hamm on Mad Men

Not exactly the traditional Thanksgiving scene.

While Thanksgiving this year may look different from the usual for many in the ongoing quarantine situation, I still hope your Turkey Day proves to be more pleasant than Don Draper’s slappy Thanksgiving in apartment 3R.

What’d He Wear?

Though Don knows his clothes are coming off shortly after answering the door, he still maintains a respectable outfit to greet Candace… which turns out to be a fortuitous decision when he can quickly make himself presentable for his unexpected visit from Peggy Olson (Elisabeth Moss) and her mild-mannered fiancé boyfriend Mark (Blake Bashoff).

Don wears a burgundy knit long-sleeved shirt with a unique hybrid collar that has a short, two-button placket that splits out to create a V-neck “Johnny collar” effect. Don’s choice to wear it over one of his usual crew-neck undershirts creates an unsightly white triangle that mars the effect of an otherwise stylish retro shirt. The set-in sleeves are finished with long-ribbed cuffs that mimic the long-ribbed hem, and a button-through patch pocket over the left breast ensures that Don never fall too far from his Lucky Strikes.

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men

Don reads Peggy the riot act for her Sugarberry Ham PR stunt that has him dishing out $280 in bail and bribes.

Don pulls himself out of his depression enough to pull on a pair of decent dark gray wool flat front trousers, styled with straight pockets along the side seams and jetted back pockets.

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men

Don greets his sole expected Thanksgiving guest, but there’s sadly no turkey or potatoes in Don and Candace’s immediate future. (I won’t comment on the stuffing.)

A few episodes later in “The Chrysanthemum and the Sword” (Episode 4.05), Don would wear a more conventionally styled dark red knit long-sleeved polo shirt with a four-button top when dropping off a newly shorn Sally (Kiernan Shipka) with Betty. As he’s out and about in the chillier spring weather, he layers on his charcoal brown tonal plaid woolen topcoat and his usual gray felt trilby with its narrow black grosgrain band.

Kiernan Shipka and Jon Hamm on Mad Men

Another dark red long-sleeved polo-style shirt in “The Chrysanthemum and the Sword” as Don drops Sally off with Betty.

What to Imbibe

In another counter of his image as a talented creative director at a slick new agency, Don’s apartment was intentionally designed to look gloomy and depressing, a dark and drab mishmash of styles pulled together for the sake of function over form rather than the swinging bachelor pad viewers may have expected to see once it was established that the smooth, womanizing ad man was living on his own again.

“But surely an iconic drinker has a fashionable bar at home?” you wonder… not so. Particularly in this stage of his self-destruction, Don drinks with no hope for his future, having not yet found that tomorrowland to save him. Thus, no tacky tiki setups or sophisticated liquor cabinets, just an all-too-functional kitchen shelf with a few spare bottles to supplement the Canadian Club kept on the counter so he never need fear that his roly-poly glass will run dry.

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men

Featured in nearly every episode of Mad Men as the erstwhile Dick Whitman’s preferred elixir, Canadian Club’s origins date to a more than a century earlier when master distiller Hiram Walker began producing his “Club Whisky” in his distillery along the Detroit River. Though initially distilled in Detroit, Walker moved his operations across the river to Ontario. By the late 1880s, Walker’s American competitors asked that the whiskey’s new country of origin be prominently placed on the label in the hopes of turning away domestic consumers but the plan backfired when the rebranding as “Canadian Club” only made Walker’s product appear even more exclusive to his customers.

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 4.01: "Public Relations")

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 4.01: “Public Relations”)

How to Get the Look

What’s the sartorial lesson here? Despite Don’s desperation, he still maintains a presentable standard of dress while spending Thanksgiving home alone. In fact, his festive-hued knitted polo and slacks are arguably more dressed up than I’ve seen some men dressing when spending the holidays with family, proof that constructing a smart holiday outfit can be both simple and comfortable.

  • Burgundy knit shirt with V-neck collar and short two-button placket, button-through breast pocket, and long-ribbed cuffs and hem
  • White cotton crew-neck short-sleeve undershirt
  • Dark gray wool flat front trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, and jetted back pockets

Of course, I try to take a non-judgmental “to each his own” approach to dressing, so if you want to spend your Thanksgiving hedonistically ensconced in velvet à la George Costanza or Paulie Walnuts, you do you!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series.

Fans of Janie Bryant’s costume design will be delighted to learn that she will soon be launching a menswear line with Inherent Clothier with more information to come soon!

The Quote

I ought to let you twist in the wind.

The post Mad Men: Burgundy Knitwear for Don Draper’s Lonely Thanksgiving appeared first on BAMF Style.

Chris Evans’ Famous Fisherman’s Sweater in Knives Out

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Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Chris Evans as Hugh “Ransom” Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

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Chris Evans as Hugh “Ransom” Drysdale, arrogant “trust fund prick”

Massachusetts, November 2018

Film: Knives Out
Release Date: November 27, 2019
Director: Rian Johnson
Costume Designer: Jenny Eagan

Background

Released a year ago this week, Knives Out offered a fresh spin on the classic “whodunit” genre, complete with an idiosyncratic detective—in this case, Daniel Craig as the observant Benoit Blanc—and a dysfunctional family plunged into a murder mystery at their palatial country estate. It’s that dysfunctional family element that inspired me to write about Knives Out today, on the eve of a Thanksgiving that’s sure to look different than usual for most households.

The last member of the Thrombey household to be introduced on screen is Ransom Drysdale—or Hugh to “the help”—the spoiled grandson of the late mystery writer Harlan Thrombey (Christopher Plummer). Even before Knives Out reached theaters, the internet was ablaze with preview images of Chris Evans lounging in Ransom’s moth-eaten fisherman’s sweater, reintroducing the classic Aran knitting technique to a new generation.

In the year since Knives Out has been released, the cultural impact of Ransom’s sweater has been chronicled ad nauseam, though perhaps most effectively by Rachel Syme for The New Yorker in her December 2019 article “The Curious Case of Chris Evans’s Sweater in Knives Out that explores the role of costuming in whodunits.

Before continuing on, I wish all of you a happy, healthy, and safe Thanksgiving, and I hope that many of you can find more forgiving attitudes toward your loved ones than Ransom “Fuck my family” Drysdale.

What’d He Wear?

Of course, who wouldn’t want to inspire a reaction like that? While few of us look like Chris Evans, a timeless Aran knit sweater can still turn heads… and maybe even evoke the occasional gasp of admiration.

When Syme spoke to costume designer Jenny Eagen for The New Yorker‘s piece, Eagen wasn’t able to initially recall the brand of the sweater or whether it was new or vintage, but she did offer that “she chose to swaddle Evans in eggshell because it was the color of leisure, of a man who has never had to work a day in his life. He can wear a color that must stay pristine, because he’s not doing the kind of labor that would invite stains (or any labor, really).”

The irony of an idle loafer like Ransom wearing this sweater is that these hard-wearing jumpers were originally developed for the hardworking fishermen of Galway Bay off the western coast of Ireland. The lighter-weight wool of guernsey knitwear that inspired these jumpers was unavailable to western Irish knitters, so thicker báinín yarn was sourced from local sheep’s wool. Unwashed and undyed, this now-familiar creamy shade of off-white wool also contained natural sheep lanolin with water-repellent properties that added considerable value at sea.

The practice originated around the turn of the 20th century, shrouded in the mythology that unique designs were knitted on each sweater to identify drowned fishermen who may have otherwise been too disfigured to be recognized. While a romantic—if morbid—theory, the more likely truth is that these criss-crossing cable-knit patterns represented the villages and regions where these fishermen originated. Many cable patterns reportedly carried meanings such as ropes suggesting “good fortune at sea” according to Esquire‘s Handbook of Style or a lucky honeycomb stitch representing abundant yields. You can—and should—read more of the Aran sweater’s history in Julia Brodsky’s definitive history for ShamrockCraic.

While cable-knit techniques have been applied to sweaters in every color and every style from cardigans to vests, the most traditional Aran knitwear remains the natural-colored pullover jumper. While I’m no knitting expert (and welcome any corrections), I believe that Ransom’s bulky cable-knit sweater incorporates three different cable patterns: Patons Honeycomb Aran down the center of the torso and sleeves, then panels alternating between double coiled rope stitches and a four-yarn cascade cable rib.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Production photo of Chris Evans in Knives Out.

As defined by Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man, the fisherman’s jumper is a “bulky, hand-knit sweater made of natural-color, water-repellent wool in fancy stitches characteristic of Aran Islands off the Bay of Galway in Ireland.”

Months after Knives Out was released, an array of screen-worn costumes and accessories were auctioned. Most of Chris Evans’ attire was included, including the famous sweater that he had reportedly swiped from the set! Produced by French fashion retailer The Kooples, Ransom’s sweater was made from a blend of 90% wool and 10% cashmere that suggests a piece made for luxury rather than labor. So why the distressed look?

Rian Johnson explained to Vincent Boucher of The Hollywood Reporter that he had asked Eagen to put holes in the sweater as “the character has really nice clothes that he kind of treats like trash.” Thus, Eagen and her team got to work adding holes and fraying to the ribbed crew neck and cuffs as well as the body of the sweater, prominently over the right side of the chest.

“He’s buying expensive things,” Eagan explained of Ransom to Syme. “But he doesn’t respect them.” She added in an interview with People that “giving it little nicks or little holes here and there, meaning he didn’t take care of it… the holes and the tatter gave him a touch of that disrespect. It was a disrespect to the family, a disrespect to the name, a disrespect to his clothes.”

Despite—or perhaps enhanced by—the added damage, Chris Evans’ lived-in Aran-style pullover became one of the most talked-about men’s costumes in recent movies, inspiring dozens of articles and hundreds of tweets that ranged from pure admiration to the occasional thoughtful exploration behind this classic piece of knitwear and its ironic place in Ransom’s closet.

The moment that launched a million memes: Ransom Drysdale, wrapped in his comfortably oversized cable-knit sweater listens to Marta Cabrera (Ana de Armas) explain what happened to Harlan Thrombey.

The moment that launched a million memes: Ransom Drysdale, wrapped in his comfortably oversized cable-knit sweater listens to Marta Cabrera (Ana de Armas) explain what happened to his grandfather Harlan Thrombey.

While retailers like Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue have been sold out of The Kooples sweater like the one worn by Chris Evans, an enterprising knitter named Caryn Shaffer worked hard to recreate the unique sweater’s patterns for what she appropriately calls “The Handsome Chris Sweater” as chronicled and outlined on Ravelry. If you’re not a knitter but still want to see if the look works for you, the resurgence of interest in Aran-style jumpers means you have a wide array of options available for every budget:

Chris Evans' screen-worn sweater by The Kooples, as auctioned on eBay earlier this year.

Chris Evans’ screen-worn sweater by The Kooples, as auctioned on eBay earlier this year. The auction listing had described Evans’ sweater as being a size small, despite how oversized it looks on the muscular actor’s frame.

  • Aran Crafts Irish Soft Cable Knitted Crew Neck Sweater in 100% merino wool ($59 to $78, via Amazon)
  • Aran Knitwear Traditional Hand-Knit Sweater in 100% merino wool ($165, via Blarney Woollen Mills)
  • Aran Sweater Market Cabled Sweater in 100% merino wool ($179.95, via Aran Sweater Market)
  • Aran Sweater Market Heavyweight Merino Wool Sweater in 100% merino wool ($99.95, via Aran Sweater Market)
  • Aran Sweater Market Lightweight Traditional Wool Sweater in 100% pure new wool ($64.95, via Aran Sweater Market)
  • Biddy Murphy Irish Fisherman Sweater in 100% merino wool ($118.64 to $152.55, via Amazon)
  • Blarney Woollen Mills “Fionn” in 100% merino wool ($119, via Blarney Woollen Mills)
  • Blarney Woollen Mills “John” in 100% merino wool ($129, via Blarney Woollen Mills)
  • Carraig Donn Irish Wool Sweater in 100% wool ($89.95, via Amazon)
  • The Irish Store Blasket Honeycomb Stitch Aran Sweater in 100% merino wool ($89.95, via The Irish Store)
  • The Irish Store Lightweight Crew Neck Aran Sweater in 100% wool ($74.95, via The Irish Store)
  • The Irish Store O’Connell Aran Sweater in 100% merino wool ($99.95, via The Irish Store)
  • L.L. Bean Irish Fisherman’s Crewneck Heritage Sweater in 100% wool ($179, via L.L. Bean)
  • SAOL Irish Traditional Cable Knit Sweater Pullover in 100% merino wool ($96.60, via Amazon)
  • Amazon Essentials Midweight Fisherman Sweater in off-white cotton, nylon, and wool blend ($25, via Amazon)

Prices and availability current as of November 2020.

Barely glimpsed under the ribbed crew-neck of Ransom’s sweater is his undershirt, a drab olive-colored cotton crew-neck pocket T-shirt, also with fraying edges.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Ransom keeps his soon-to-be-famous sweater concealed for his first appearance on screen, layered for the fall morning in an unstructured thigh-length topcoat made from a soft napped light brown wool, possibly cashmere or a cashmere blend. A loafer like Ransom would have little need for a formal overcoat, so shorter and more versatile coats like

The eBay auction listing through VIP Fan Auctions and subsequent Spotern post tell us that the coat was made by Theory, a New York-based fashion label founded in 1997 by Andrew Rosen and Elie Tahari.

Ransom’s single-breasted topcoat has notch lapels and a single-breasted fly front that would cover the three faux-wood buttons if we ever saw him wear the jacket closed.

The unstructured, unlined coat has narrow natural shoulders and set-in sleeves with a seam down the length of each down to the plain-finished cuffs devoid of buttons, vents, or any decoration aside from some hard-worn fraying characteristic to Ransom’s clothing. The Theory coat also has side-entry hand pockets and a single vent.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

CSI: KFC?,” Ransom quips regarding Benoit Blanc’s “Foghorn Leghorn” accent while munching on Lotus Biscoff cookies.

Similarly to Ransom appropriating a sweater associated with rugged labor and hard work, he also chooses trousers with a deceivingly professional chalk stripe like one would associate with a successful businessperson, lawyer, or other professional… rather than a ne’er-do-well who spends his idle hours loafing and conniving.

Ransom’s navy pure wool single reverse-pleated trousers from Suitsupply are patterned with a faded white chalk-stripe and the usual gently slanted side pockets, jetted back pockets, plain-hemmed bottoms, and… elastic waistband with a drawstring?

The untucked sweater covers enough of the trouser waistband to make these presentable enough for a more formal occasion like a will-reading, and—were it not for the auction listings after the film’s production—one may not have even been able to tell that Ransom was wearing drawstring-waisted pants. The trouser model worn on screen appears to have been discontinued, though the Amsterdam-based apparel company Suit Supply still offers drawstring-waisted trousers like these pleated “Ames” trousers in navy chalk-striped wool.

While there’s little to admire about Ransom Drysdale, I do appreciate his trouser selection for their “business on the bottom, party on the top” approach as their drawstring closure makes them the ideal dressed-down dressy bottoms whether you’re in the market for “Thanksgiving pants” or just looking to give your waistline a break when returning to the office after months spent working from home.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

His waistband concealed by sweater and scarf (and chessboard, for good measure), only Ransom knows that his formal-looking chalk-stripe wool pleated trousers are essentially an expensive step above pajama pants.

In keeping with the rest of his wardrobe, Ransom’s Gucci loafers have a prestigious heritage but reflect years of his careless wear as Jenny Eagen had a member of the costume department wear them down to the point that the taupe brown leather uppers had begun peeling.

Aldo Gucci had innovated his famous loafers in 1953 with gold horsebit detailing across the insteps which ultimately became their defining feature. “There are very few items of footwear that can be worn to both the office and the beach, but this loafer, in its many guises, is one such shoe,” explained British GQ fashion pundit Teo van den Broeke to The Rake, and this sort of versatility would no doubt appeal to Ransom as a style of shoes he could wear for any situation, regardless of its formality, with the added bonus of conspicuous branding.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Encounters like this with his grandfather’s dogs must have done plenty to shorten the lifespan of Ransom’s broken-in Gucci loafers. Also, Ransom evidently forgot that dogs are good judges of a person’s character.

Ransom adds plenty of colorful flash to his look by way of a lightweight scarf printed in an avian and floral motif that a Reddit user identified as the 2018 iteration of the Drake’s “Bird and Flower” scarf. According to the listing at eHaberdasher (and a slightly different colorway at Paul & Friends), this Italian-handmade scarf measures 70 by 180 centimeters and is composed of 70% wool and 30% silk.

The scarf has a green frayed edge, then a border row arranged in alternating triangles with all the “stalactite” triangles in beige while the “stalagmite” triangles alternate between coral and bronze. Further in is a wider row of colorful flowers against a bronze ground and then a repeat of the alternating triangle border row. The interior of the scarf is a plum-colored ground, printed with colorful earth-toned birds flying among a field of green vines and falling blue, coral, and bronze leaves.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Ransom arrives at the Thrombey household wearing his retro-styled Ray-Ban RB3447 Round Metal sunglasses with gold frames and green “Classic G-15” lenses (color code 001). Given his disregard for the family, it’s a surprise he takes them off even after he’s inside the house. “A curved brow bar, adjustable nose pads, and thin metal temples with plastic end tips rest comfortably behind the ears,” describes the Ray-Ban site, where they’re still available for $154; also available on Amazon.

Ransom’s only piece of jewelry is a gold pinky ring, which he seems to absently switch from one hand to the next. For example, he wears the ring on his left hand when he’s introduced at the Thrombey estate and berates his family until it’s switched to his right pinky for the following scene when the will is read. It’s back on his left hand when he and Marta confer at a local restaurant, but then he switches it over to his right pinky again the following day (most clearly seen after Marta produces the visceral evidence of her dishonesty.)

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Rolex GMT Master with a "Pepsi" bezel and leather strap, similar to Ransom's watch in Knives Out.

Rolex GMT Master with a “Pepsi” bezel and leather strap, similar to Ransom’s watch in Knives Out.
(Source: watchmenwatches.com, via Pinterest)

When not covered by the frayed cuffs of his voluminous sweaters, Ransom’s stainless steel watch can be glimpsed on his left wrist, detailed with a red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel around the black dial arranged with luminous non-numeric hour markers and a bubble over the 3:00 date window.

Nicknamed for its resemblance to the soft drink brand’s red-and-blue logo, the 24-hour “Pepsi bezel” debuted on the first run of Rolex GMT Master navigational watches when they were introduced in 1954 via Rolex’s collaboration with Pan Am. The original Pepsi bezel, ref. 6542, was a red-and-blue bakelite insert, though bakelite’s penchant for cracking led to Rolex swapping it out with aluminum later in the decade before eventually switching to ceramic bezels with the GMT Master II generation in 2007.

In addition to the Pepsi bezel, the GMT Master was offered with the “Coke” (dark red and black), “Root Beer” (brown and gold), and even “Batman” (blue and black) bezel inserts, though the Pepsi colorway has arguably been the most influential with other watchmakers like Orient, Seiko, TAG Heuer, and Tudor in the decades since. You can read more about the history of the GMT Master at by Oakleigh Luxury Watches.

Whatever his actual watch may be, Ransom wears it strapped to his wrist on a smooth brown leather bracelet.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Benoit Blanc’s much-discussed “Gentleman Sleuth” profile in The New Yorker shows up on screen at the same time we catch a glimpse of Ransom’s “Pepsi bezel” watch.

Far less celebrated but still stylish are Ransom’s clothes for the day Benoit Blanc concludes his investigation. He stays true to his sartorial approach, pulling his favorite brown topcoat over a crew-neck sweater and trousers with those beaten Gucci loafers. Ransom’s single reverse-pleated trousers are patterned with a mini black-and-white check and detailed with side pockets, jetted back pockets (with a button to close the back right pocket), and plain-hemmed bottoms, though the untucked sweater hem prevents us from discerning if this is yet another pair of drawstring-waisted pants.

Benoit Blanc sums up his case for an audience of Marta and Ransom.

Benoit Blanc (Daniel Craig) sums up his case for an audience of Marta (Ana de Armas) and Ransom Drysdale. Note his new outfit but the same shoes and same coat slung over the back of his chair.

The eagle-eyed contributors at Spotern identified Ransom’s speckled slate blue sweater as a product of Scotch & Soda, a Daniel Craig-approved brand that he had worn frequently in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Though it also has a ribbed crew-neck and long-ribbed cuffs and hem, this pullover has a more subdued knit.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

The “sketch” of Ransom used for Chris Evans’ slate during the end credits was evidently taken from this moment on screen.

The Car

If Ransom Drysdale doesn’t take care of his clothes, at least he takes care of his car, motoring through New England in a sharp silver 1972 BMW 3.0 CSi. Decades after BMW introduced the popular E9 series, the 3.0 CS and CSi models continue to be celebrated among the most collectible BMWs, with Ryan DeBaun writing for CNBC that the 3.0 CS was touted as having rich and famous owners, including celebrities and ‘even a dash of royalty,'” exactly the sort of pedigree that would appeal to a conspicuous materialist like Ransom.

1972 BMW E9 in Knives Out (2019)

Ransom must have difficultly hiding his shady activities when driving around his quiet Massachusetts home community in such a conspicuous classic BMW.

BMW introduced the E9 range of two-door coupes for the 1968 model year, an evolution of the successful “New Class” line that revived BMW’s reputation and finances. The 2.8 L straight-six engine was borrowed from the E3 sedan for the 2800 CS coupe, though the model would be bored out for a larger engine in 1971 with the introduction of the 3.0 CS and 3.0 CSi.

Both models were powered by a 2986 cc straight-six M30 engine; the 3.0 CS has a 9:0:1 compression ratio and twin Zenith carburetors that produce 180 horsepower while the fuel-injected 3.0 CSi has a 9:5:1 compression ratio and a higher output up to 200 horsepower.

The 3.0 CS, CSi, and new-for-1972 CSL continued in production through the 1975 model year, though BMW also responded to consumer needs during the gas crisis by adding a smaller, less-demanding engine option for 1974 and 1975 with the 2.5 CS that would be sold in limited numbers to the European market only.

Just over 30,500 E9 cars were produced during the 1968 to 1975 manufacturing timeline, with 1972 seeing the highest production numbers. Of these 6,777 produced in ’72, less than half were the 3.0 CSi, including the 1972 BMW 3.0 CSi that Chris Evans drove in Knives Out, mated to a four-speed manual transmission.

1972 BMW 3.0 CSi (E9)

1972 BMW E9 in Knives Out (2019)

Ransom Drysdale’s parked 1972 BMW 3.0 CSi (E9) in Knives Out.

Body Style: 2-door coupe

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 182 cu. in. (3.0 L) BMW CSi straight-six with Bosch D-Jetronic electronic fuel injection

Power: 197 hp (147 kW; 200 PS) @ 5500 rpm

Torque: 201 lb·ft (272 N·m) @ 4300 rpm

Transmission: 4-speed manual

Wheelbase: 103.3 inches (2624 mm)

Length: 183.5 inches (4660 mm)

Width: 65.7 inches (1670 mm)

Height: 53.9 inches (1370 mm)

You can read more about Ransom’s BMW 3.0 CSi from Knives Out and see photos of it at Copley Motorcars. As only the 3.0 CS model was originally sold in the United States, the screen-used 3.0 CSi—serial number 2260962—had been delivered new to Milan and wouldn’t be imported to the U.S. until the 1990s, where it was refurbished and repainted.

What to Imbibe

In addition to what appears to be a Manhattan on the rocks with a maraschino cherry, Ransom spends Marta’s “confession” drinking several varieties of the local Nantucket-brewed Cisco Brewers beers, including Grey Lady Ale, Gripah (a grapefruit IPA), and Indie Pale Ale.

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

At least four beers and half a cocktail deep, Ransom processes what he learns from Marta about Harlan’s final moments.

Founded in 1995, Cisco Brewers remains Nantucket’s first and only craft brewery as it celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. According to its website, the brewery “prides itself on celebrating a deep-rooted New England-island heritage through its portfolio of approachable, sessionable, and coastally inspired beers.”

The Grey Lady Ale and Gripah varieties seen on screen are among Cisco’s year-round offerings, the crisp Grey Lady a 4.0% ABV wheat ale while the tarty and tropical grapefruit-infused Gripah IPA offers a little more kick at 5.5% ABV. The now-discontinued Indie Pale Ale was an American IPA that also had a fruity nose and the highest ABV of Ransom’s selected beers at 6.5%.

How to Get the Look

Chris Evans as Hugh "Ransom" Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

Chris Evans as Hugh “Ransom” Drysdale in Knives Out (2019)

The epitome of lazy leisure, the spoiled Ransom Drysdale (Chris Evans) dresses solely for his own comfort in an incongruous blend of styles including his soft, unstructured brown topcoat, colorful lightweight scarf, drawstring-waisted chalk-stripe trousers, broken-in Gucci loafers, and the pièce de résistance: that much-abused but supremely flattering Aran-style cable-knit sweater.

  • Cream cable-knit wool-and-cashmere crew-neck Aran-style fisherman’s sweater
  • Olive green cotton crew-neck short-sleeve T-shirt with chest pocket
  • Light brown soft wool single-breasted thigh-length topcoat with notch lapels, three-button fly front, set-in sleeves with plain cuffs, side pockets, and single vent
  • Drake’s “Birds and Flowers” wool/silk lightweight scarf with colorful avian and floral print against a plum ground with green frayed edges
  • Navy chalk-stripe wool single reverse-pleated trousers with elastic-sided drawstring waist, gently slanted side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Taupe brown leather Gucci horsebit loafers
  • Black socks
  • Ray-Ban RB3447 Round Metal gold-framed sunglasses with round green lenses
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Stainless steel watch with red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel and black dial (with 3:00 date window) on brown leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, released on 4K Ultra HD, Blu-ray, DVD, and streaming services. I also recommend listening to the episode of the marvelous podcast From Tailors with Love in which host Pete Brooker and his guests including Matt Spaiser of Bond Suits discuss the film’s clothing.

The Quote

Eat shit! Eat shit, eat shit… definitely eat shit.

The post Chris Evans’ Famous Fisherman’s Sweater in Knives Out appeared first on BAMF Style.


Tony Soprano’s Black Bullethole Shirt in “The Weight”

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James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 4.04: "The Weight")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 4.04: “The Weight”)

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James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, New Jersey mob boss

New Jersey, Fall 2001

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “The Weight” (Episode 4.04)
Air Date: October 6, 2002
Director: Jack Bender
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

Background

I know it’s only been a week since my last post about the style of The Sopranos, but I have a great reason for returning to my favorite show as today happens to be the birthday of my friend Gabe, the hardworking curator of @tonysopranostyle on Instagram. Having attained more than 30,000 followers in less than a year on the platform, @tonysopranostyle remains an authoritative and entertaining source of information for everything James Gandolfini wore during his iconic tenure portraying the boss of the New Jersey Mafia, from his boldly printed shirts and velvet tracksuits to his gold jewelry and cigars.

Not just an expert, Gabe also puts his money where his mouth is, tracking down and purchasing many shirts in the original designs from the manufacturers who were sourced by costume designer Juliet Polcsa for the series. Gabe started his collection in late 2016 when, having read Christopher Hooton’s interview with Polcsa for The Independent, he used the brands cited by Polcsa to find a black Alan Stuart shirt with the same scattered abstract pattern that Gandolfini wore for a few scenes in the fourth season episode “The Weight”.

Two episodes after Ralph Cifaretto made his ill-natured joke about Ginny Sack and her “90-pound mole”, the off-handed quip rose to influence the central plot and even title of this fourth episode of The Sopranos‘ fourth season. Despite trying to avoid the fray, Tony is reluctantly enlisted by New York boss Carmine Lupertazzi to organize a hit against Johnny Sack due to concerns that the protective John would go rogue and take Ralph out himself.

“Fucked-up thing is I don’t even like Ralph,” Tony complains of his role in the messy situation. “If he were drowning, I’d throw him a cinder block.”

What’d He Wear?

Gabe told me he instantly recognized this viscose Alan Stuart shirt from “The Weight” due to its distinctive motif of shaded gray abstract squares that each have a black dotted center to match the black ground, a shape he likened to bullet holes for their irregular edges and the theme of the series itself. Tony wears a long-sleeved shirt with a point collar, front placket, and pocket, though Alan Stuart evidently used this pattern for a variety of styles, including the short-sleeved banded-bottom polo like Gabe found.

Tony wears a few top buttons of his shirt undone to reveal the low neckline of his white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt and his usual gold St. Jerome pendant worn on a slim open-link necklace.

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos

Tony frequently wears pleated trousers in classic, conservative colors like gray, khaki, taupe, and black, and these double reverse-pleated slacks are no exception, constructed from gray wool to call out the repeating pattern on his shirt. Possibly—and likely—made by his preferred trouser brand Zanella, these trousers have side pockets and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottom. Tony often wears his button-up shirts untucked, but he tucks in this shirt to reveal a black leather belt with a polished steel single-prong buckle, coorda

Though he usually wears his button-up shirts untucked, Tony tucks in this Alan Stuart shirt and thus reveals his black leather belt that coordinates with his black leather lace-up shoes, probably his go-to Allen-Edmonds derbies.

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos

Frustrated by his role in the Cifaretto-Sacrimoni feud, Tony consults with Uncle Junior (Dominic Chianese) while watching Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?
Am I reading too much into the show’s intentions to assume that choice was made to echo Tony’s earlier-stated concerns about the burden of being a modern-era mob boss: “This day and age? Who wants the fuckin’ job?”

Tony adorns himself with his usual complement of gold jewelry including a pair of rings ranging from the simple wedding band on the third finger of his left hand to the ruby-and-diamond bypass ring on his right pinky. All but covered by the left sleeve of his shirt, Tony wears his signature 18-karat yellow gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 18238 watch with the champagne gold dial, nicknamed the “President” or “Presidential” in reference to its unique semi-circular three-piece link bracelet.

On his right wrist, Tony wears the gold bracelet that @tonysopranostyle describes as resembling “a Cuban curbed link chain and an Italian Figaro link chain with a twist.”

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos

Gabe also pointed out to me that you can see Patsy Parisi (Dan Grimaldi) wearing a long-sleeved Alan Stuart shirt with an identical pattern two seasons later in the final scene of “Johnny Cakes” (Episode 6.08), worn under his tan suede jacket that resembles early A-1 pattern flight jackets.

Dan Grimaldi as Patsy Parisi on The Sopranos (Episode 6.08)

“What the fuck is happening to this neighborhood?” Patsy bemoans at the end of “Johnny Cakes” (Episode 6.08), dressed in his own Alan Stuart shirt under his suede flight jacket.

While overlapping clothing brands is certainly common in the world of The Sopranos, the noticeable similarities are typically confined to their silk tracksuits from brands like Genelli or the paneled Axis and Nat Nast bowling shirts favored by multiple characters like Tony, Bobby Bacala, Vito Spatafore, and even Larry David if we’re including the extended HBO universe.

Seeing Patsy in an identical shirt as the Skip, albeit in an arguably smaller size to fit the trim Dan Grimaldi, is one of the few times that we would see the same unique shirt worn by different characters. Now if only we got to see Paulie Walnuts wearing that Tabasco polo

How to Get the Look

My friend Gabe, the curator and researcher behind @tonysopranostyle, sports his own "bullethole"-patterned Alan Stuart shirt last year.

My friend Gabe, the curator and researcher behind @tonysopranostyle, sports his own “bullethole”-patterned Alan Stuart shirt last year. Note also his Tony-style accessories of a ruby pinky ring and chain-link bracelet.

@tonysopranostyle perfectly illustrated how to take inspiration from the style of The Sopranos, finding a similarly patterned shirt without directly copying the look. Given the uniqueness of many of Tony’s prints, it’s likely a wiser sartorial philosophy to follow that route of adapting the character’s style rather than mimicking it… even if a member of Tony’s own crew may have chosen the latter path.

  • Black “bullethole”-motif viscose long-sleeved shirt with point collar, front placket, and breast pocket
  • Gray wool double-reverse pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt with polished steel squared single-prong buckle
  • Black leather derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Rolex Day-Date “President” 18238 self-winding chronometer watch in 18-karat yellow gold with champagne-colored dial and Presidential link bracelet
  • Gold curb-chain link bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with bypassing ruby and diamond stones
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series. I also recommend following my friend @tonysopranostyle on Instagram!

The post Tony Soprano’s Black Bullethole Shirt in “The Weight” appeared first on BAMF Style.

Once a Thief: Alain Delon’s Sheepskin Coat and Ford Model A

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Alain Delon as Eddie Pedak in Once a Thief (1965)

Alain Delon as Eddie Pedak in Once a Thief (1965)

Vitals

Alain Delon as Eddie Pedak, reformed thief

San Francisco, Spring 1965

Film: Once a Thief
Release Date: September 8, 1965
Director: Ralph Nelson

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

On the last day of #Noirvember (and Alain Delon’s birthday month) and the first day of this winter’s #CarWeek series, it felt like the perfect time to explore Once a Thief, Ralph Nelson’s moody black-and-white crime drama starring Delon as a reformed criminal-turned-family man.

The jazzy opening credits depict a night at Big Al’s, a smoky den laden with drug pushers and beatniks, including author Zekial Marko, whose novel Scratch a Thief provided the movie’s source material. We follow a young man swaddled in sheepskin as he leaves the club and takes the wheel of a vintage “Model A Ford” roadster, which then becomes his getaway car after a swift but deadly closing-time stickup at a liquor store in Chinatown.

We then learn that the car and coat are a trademark of Eddie Pedak, a reformed armed robber making an honest living as a truck driver with his wife Kristine (Ann-Margret) and their daughter. The arrival of Eddie’s criminal brother Walter (Jack Palance), a syndicate hotshot, brings complications in the form of a proposition for one night’s criminal work—the proverbial “one last job”—which Eddie initially refuses, despite the $50,000 payout.

It turns out that Eddie, who truly is making an honest go at his American dream, was framed for the opening crime by Walter’s double-crossing cohorts to ruin his chances for legitimate employment and lure him back into the fold… a plan that unfortunately works once Eddie’s situation grows more desperate.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Walter and his gang talk Eddie, clad in his signature sheepskin coat, through their plan to rob his former employer.

Once a Thief was the second film Delon starred in that was adapted from a book by Zekial Marko, having appeared two years earlier in Any Number Can Win based on his 1959 novel The Big Grab. Marko actually played a small role in Once a Thief, including one scene with Delon to be filmed inside Los Angeles County Jail. Having been arrested the previous evening on a cannabis charge, Marko was simply moved to the cell lit for the scene to deliver his performance and then returned to his own cell when his acting duties were complete.

What’d He Wear?

Sheepskin coats were indeed having their moment during the 1960s, rising above their functional origins to be established as fashionable outerwear whether worn over a suit or sport jacket as modeled by Rod Taylor in The V.I.P.s or more casually over winter-friendly layers like Robert Redford’s sporty look in Downhill Racer.

Alain Delon

Alain Delon models his own shearling sheepskin coat, which appears to be the same one he wore in Once a Thief, though the rest of his costume slightly differs from the shirt and tie he would wear on screen.

In 1964, the year before Delon wore his in Once a Thief, Hardy Amies described sheepskin in ABCs of Men’s Fashion as “the skin of the sheep with the wool left on and dressed as a whole for garment making,” expanding the definition to address the then-trendy sheepskin coat which “will present a suede outside and an attached wool lining inside.” Differing perspectives argue whether shearling is a classification of or synonym for sheepskin, but it feels safe to follow the Orvis definition of “a shearling sheepskin is the skin of a shearling lamb that’s tanned, processed, and dyed with the wool still intact,” while sheepskin may refer to the hide of a sheep of any age.

Though sheepskin garments reportedly date back to the Stone Age, it was the early years of military aviation leading up to World War II that standardized the functional processing of sheepskin outerwear as Allied pilots took to the skies in their Irvin flying jackets or B-3 bomber coats that insulated against decreasing temperatures at increasing altitudes. The naturally water-resistant and moisture-wicking fabric kept pilots and air crews warm and dry while the conditions in and around their unpressurized planes fought to keep them anything but.

These victorious pilots returning home brought with them the image of the hero who stays cool and collected under pressure, wrapped in the rugged yet rakish sheepskin that had been keeping men warm for thousands of years, since the primitive era of hunter-and-gatherer culture.

Particularly during the Victorian era, sheepskin outerwear was indicative of higher social strata as its expensive production ensured only the richest could wear it. By the mid-20th century, the perceived danger associated with the garment due to its wartime usage increased greatly increased the demand, including among consumers who couldn’t practically afford authentic sheepskin. In response, lookalike jackets were developed with a polyester-based “sherpa” lining for a low-cost alternative. Of course, genuine sheepskin remains a far preferred alternative for its lighter-wearing yet more insulated properties.

Ann-Margret and Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Clad in their comfortable coats for an evening drive in Eddie’s open Model A roadster, both Eddie and Kris can suspect something is wrong once they notice a car tailing them.

San Francisco’s mild climate, influenced by cool currents from the Pacific, makes sheepskin the ideal cloth for Eddie Pedak’s trademark coat. Its rugged yet respectable association is consistent with Eddie’s persona as an honest “tough guy” and it can be comfortably dressed down with a T-shirt or dressed up with a tie.

Eddie’s sheepskin jacket is styled like the traditional thigh-length car coat, short enough to not get in his way as he climbs in and out of his roadster… or, in a past life, his getaway car. The single-breasted coat has four large wooden (or faux-wood) buttons up the front between the waist and the yoking across the chest. Above that horizontal yoke, the reverse “lining” of the coat presents the piled wooly shearling fur like a set of wide notched lapels. This furry side can also be seen piled around the cuffs at the end of each set-in sleeve. Eddie’s coat has two large patch pockets with gently reverse-slanting openings across the tops.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Eddie Pedak returns home in his sheepskin coat to the unwelcome sight of his young daughter Kathy (Tammy Locked) drawing pictures on the back of his heist plans… while in the company of the police inspector investigating him.

It was grocery store owner Mr. Wing’s description of a young man wearing a “sheepskin coat” that led Inspector Mike Vido (Van Heflin) to suspect Eddie as the killer thief. Once Vido finds a second coat in a second Model A roadster, he informs Eddie, who then confronts Walter’s gang with the knowledge that he’s been framed:

Two guys… one was wearing a sheepskin coat, like mine. They made off in a Model A, like mine. Someone tried to frame me for a murder.

Van Heflin in Once a Thief (1965)

The discovery of a second sheepskin coat inside a second Ford Model A roadster forces Inspector Vido to realize Eddie wasn’t the murderer he’s been so doggedly pursuing.

When we meet Eddie at the start of the film, he’s wearing his sheepskin coat over a dark ribbed short-sleeve T-shirt—almost certainly black—tucked into casual trousers. These flat front trousers rise to Delon’s natural waist, where they’re held up with a dark (again, probably black) textured belt with a well-polished rectangular single-prong buckle.

The trousers have slanted “frogmouth”-style front pockets positioned just below the belt line in addition to jetted back pockets. Likely made from a cotton chino cloth, Delon wears them like some men today would wear jeans, and indeed contemporary promotional art colors these trousers to a denim-like shade of blue.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Eddie is dismayed to find Walter’s band of thieves, including the dark-shaded Sargatanas (John Davis Chandler), in his living room.

For the planning, execution, and fallout from the heist, Eddie wears a two-pocket work shirt in a light blue soft flannel, its color confirmed by on-set photography. The shirt has a front placket, rounded barrel cuffs with a single-button closure, and two chest pockets with a horizontal yoke across the top of each.

Delon had previously worn similar shirts under his “tough guy” leather jacket as a criminal in Any Number Can Win, so this shirt was likely a product of the same manufacturer. In Once a Thief, Eddie’s shirt and black tie serve a purpose so that he can efficiently swap out his sheepskin coat for a police jacket and hat during the heist when he and the sinister Sargatanas double as security guards.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

“Would you mind not blasting me while my mother’s in the room?” Inspector Vido requests after a gun-toting Eddie Pedak shows up at his family home.

Eddie wears plain black wool flat front trousers, self-supported around the waist with the “DAKS top” system of button-tab side-adjusters introduced by Simpsons of Piccadilly in the 1930s, best seen here during the climactic finale. They fasten in the front through a hidden double-hook on the square-ended front waist tab. Like his more casual chinos, these trousers have then-fashionable “frogmouth”-style front pockets and jetted back pockets. They fit straight through the legs to high-breaking bottoms that are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

The short trouser break complements Eddie’s footwear, a pair of black leather plain-toe ankle boots with a buckled strap around the top of each two-piece shaft, similar to engineer boots. Not a common style found today, these hybrid ankle/engineer boots are still offered by some retailers like Ferro Aldo (via Amazon), and even those place the buckle lower that on Eddie’s boots. Given the shades of his trousers and boots, Eddie wears black socks.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

In case you didn’t read my warning about spoilers above, Eddie finds himself, uh, resting. In the middle of the street. With some ketchup on his shirt after a messy lunch. (Unfortunately, this is the clearest image we get of his trousers and boots.)

Although Eddie has lost his jacket by the end of Once a Thief, Kristine seems to be making up for the loss by continuing to wear her own shearling-inspired coat. Likely made from all wool rather than sheepskin, her burnt orange coat with its contrasting beige lining takes its styling cues from her husband’s trademark outerwear.

Ann-Margret in Once a Thief (1965)

A despondent Kristine (Ann-Margret) awaits news regarding her kidnapped daughter and felonious husband.

The Gun

Eddie Pedak’s reluctant recruitment into Walter’s gang has him issued a .38-caliber revolver that he recognizes as his “old gun”, indicating some well-deserved suspicion that his brother’s cronies had used it to frame him for killing Mrs. Wing during the Chinatown grocery heist. The weapon appears to be a blued Smith & Wesson, a pre-Model 10 service revolver in .38 Special with a 6.5-inch barrel.

Prior to Smith & Wesson numbering its revolver series from the 1950s onward, this K-framed duty model was designated the Smith & Wesson Military & Police (M&P) revolver. The M&P was introduced around the start of the 20th century in a variety of law enforcement-used cartridges, though it was Smith & Wesson’s concurrently developed .38 Special that became the most popular load not just for this weapon but for most police revolvers issued throughout the century.

Even after the M&P was standardized as the Smith & Wesson Model 10 in 1957, lengths ranged from a “snub nose” 2 inches up to a substantial 6.5 inches as wielded by Delon as Eddie Pedak, with the 4-inch barrel most popular for service revolvers issued to police and even the military when the U.S. authorized the parkerized “Victory Model” for World War II usage.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Dressed as a security guard, Eddie Pedak’s use of a classic police revolver wouldn’t raise any suspicions… until his fellow guards find themselves staring down its barrel.

After Sargatanas (John Davis Chandler) kidnapped the Pedaks’ daughter Kathy, Eddie tracks him down and fights him. Once Eddie gains the upper hand, he commandeers Sargatanas’ 1911A1 pistol, which is fitted through Once a Thief with a short suppressor. The bore suggests that Sargatanas’ 1911 is a genuine .45-caliber handgun rather than the 9mm copies used in productions around this period.

Sargatanas’ pistol deviates from the classic mil-spec 1911A1 with details like a large ramped front sight and angled cocking serrations on the slide which follow the directional slant of the grips. It’s the latter that particularly perplexes me when trying to identify the maker. Colt, the OG as far as 1911 pistols are concerned, had been producing slanted-groove slides as early as 1957 when the Gold Cup National Match target model was introduced, though these also boasted a skeleton trigger and adjustable notch rear sight while Sargatanas’ 1911 appears to have a standard trigger and subtler fixed rear sight.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Eddie Pedak aims Sargatanas’ own suppressed 1911A1 at him.

A theory introduced but quickly dismissed by IMFDB was that the slanted grooves were consistent with 1911A1 pistols made by Auto-Ordnance, the company that manufactured the “Tommy guns” that made the ’20s roar. While Auto-Ordnance now produces original mil-spec 1911A1 pistols resembling those issued at the start of the 20th century, the company’s first—and arguably less reputable—run of 1911s were differentiated by longer triggers and slanted grooves that followed the direction and slant of the grips. However, according to IMFDB, Auto-Ordnance was not yet manufacturing 1911s in 1965, so the maker of the slanted-groove 1911A1 seen in Once a Thief remains a mystery.

The Car

Eddie Pedak’s 1931 Ford Model A makes him a subject of suspicion after a similar roadster is clearly seen as the getaway car during the deadly grocery store stick-up that opens Once a Thief.

I’d long admired these stylish little cars since Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway rode around Texas in their own “stolen four-cylinder Ford coupé” for part of their lethal crime spree in Bonnie and Clyde (1967). We’re unable to discern the exact color of Eddie’s Model A due to Once a Thief‘s noirish black-and-white photography, but I suspect it may be painted yellow like one of the roadsters driven by Beatty and Dunaway.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Eddie Pedak motors through San Francisco in his open-top Ford Model A, protected against the chill in his sheepskin car coat.

After the transformative Model T was discontinued for the 1927 model year, Ford dusted off the Model A designation that had been previously used on a series of red two-seater runabouts in 1903 and 1904. Plenty had changed in automotive technology in the quarter-century since, and the new generation of Model A cars boasted a water-cooled four-cylinder “L-head” engine that generated 40 horsepower and could reach top speeds around 65 mph. The two-speed planetary transmission that guided the Model T was replaced by a more dynamic three-speed synchronous “crash gearbox” with an added reverse gear.

In another contrast to the original Model A runabouts, the new series was offered in nearly three dozen body styles and trims, including two-door roadsters and cabriolets up to town cars and even pickup trucks and wagons. The apocryphal “any color so long as it’s black” philosophy was discarded in favor of a range of colors.

Introduced nearly 93 years ago to the day on December 2, 1927, the Ford Model A became an instant hit for consumers craving customizable variety at an affordable price. Sales reached one million within a year and a half and two million by the summer of 1929. Nearly five million were manufactured and sold by the time production ended in March 1931, of which more than 450,000 were two-door drop-top roadsters.

These “Standard” and “Deluxe” roadsters were among the most popular of the wide-ranging body styles produced during the Model A’s run, offering high style at a low price tag that remained below $400 throughout the four-year production span. These two-door steel-bodied drop-top coupes with elegant lines also offered a folding rumble seat for additional passenger space.

Alain Delon in Once a Thief (1965)

Kristine and Eddie Pedak arrive back home in their Ford Model A, tagged with California license plates “HYE-765”.

1931 Ford Model A Standard Roadster (Model 40B)

Body Style: 2-door roadster

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 200.5 cu. in. (3.3 L) Ford L-head straight-4 with Zenith carburetor

Power: 40 hp (30 kW; 41 PS) @ 2200 RPM

Torque: 128 lb·ft (173 N·m) @ 1000 RPM

Transmission: 3-speed sliding-mesh manual

Wheelbase: 103.5 inches (2629 mm)

Length: 152.7 inches (3879 mm)

Width: 55.8 inches (1417 mm)

Height: 68 inches (1727 mm)

You can read more about the history of the Ford Model A roadster at Hemmings or find the source for the above specifications at It Still Runs.

Once a Thief (1965)

Inspector Vido spots a similar Ford Model A in the SFPD’s impounded property lockup.

How to Get the Look

Alain Delon as Eddie Pedak in Once a Thief (1965)

Alain Delon as Eddie Pedak in Once a Thief (1965)

In Once a Thief, Alain Delon models the versatility of a sheepskin car coat, wearing it casually with a T-shirt or more dressed up over a collared shirt and tie, while always maintaining the image of rugged respectability associated with this light but warm-wearing outerwear.

  • Light brown sheepskin shearling four-button coat with beige pile lining, horizontal yokes, set-in sleeves with reverse-showing cuffs, and slanted-opening patch pockets
  • Light blue flannel work shirt with point collar, front placket, two chest pockets, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Black tie
  • Black wool flat front trousers with button-tab “DAKS top” side adjusters, frogmouth front pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather ankle boots with top buckle-strap
  • Black socks
  • Wedding ring

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I’m a thief, so I’m going out!

The post Once a Thief: Alain Delon’s Sheepskin Coat and Ford Model A appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Friends of Eddie Coyle: Jackie Brown’s Gun-Running Road Runner and Rollnecks

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Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Vitals

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown, swaggering street-level arms dealer

Boston, Fall 1972

Film: The Friends of Eddie Coyle
Release Date: June 26, 1973
Director: Peter Yates
Costume Designer: Eric Seelig

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

A year after The Godfather introduced the cinematic world to the prestigious “honor among thieves” world of the Corleone crime family, The Friends of Eddie Coyle shined a gritty spotlight on the other side of the criminal spectrum: the unscrupulous robbers, rats, and gun-runners who would just as soon double-cross an erstwhile partner-in-crime if it meant an extra twenty bucks in their pocket.

There are no wood-paneled mansions, dramatic monologues, or swanky long-wheelbase limousines in Eddie Coyle’s world, a polluted Boston where our profane crooks conduct their business in dive bars and out of the trunks of the latest Detroit gas guzzler. At the surprising epicenter of these enterprises sits Eddie “Fingers” Coyle (Robert Mitchum), a long-in-the-tooth three-time loser far more at home warming his favorite saloon stool than helming an ambitious heist.

Enter Jackie Brown, an opportunistic twentysomething arms dealer motoring through the Beantown suburbs in a Plymouth Road Runner, dropping platitudes of “wisdom” about how hard life is to any of the scumbag suppliers or customers who will buy his guns. He prides himself on his caution but doesn’t recognize the irony of touting his illegal wares from his hardly unobtrusive electric green muscle car while boasting about his success to crooks all just one pinch away from spilling the proverbial beans to Boston’s finest.

Jackie’s the kind of guy who undoubtedly watched Bullitt a few too many times, styling himself as a lower-rent Steve McQueen in cheaper clothes, a cheaper car, and an arguably less reputable profession.

“He’s another Bullitt fan, but thought the movie would have been better if McQueen was a crook,” writes Joe Mazel in his excellent review of The Friends of Eddie Coyle. “For all Brown’s swagger, his connections are a pair of inept Patti Hearst-style revolutionaries (who live in the back of a van), wash-up Eddie Coyle, and his two gun-suppliers: a heroin addict and a group of idiot kids who can’t even remember to bring ammunition to gun trade. Yet he concocts these elaborate, multi-step systems for gun exchanges, something he probably picked up from the movies.”

Had any other director been helming The Friends of Eddie Coyle, we might worry that Jackie’s short attempts to emulate McQueen were the result of the filmmakers and not a flaw of the character. However, it was Peter Yates who had framed the King of Cool as he hardly broke a sweat beneath his rollneck while behind the wheel of that hunter green Mustang, and thus it’s Yates we can trust with adequately adapting the character from George V. Higgins’ novel into a wannabe who styles himself after Yates’ own most enduring cinematic output.

What’d He Wear?

In Jackie’s mind, the film we’re enjoying is The Friends of Jackie Brown, as there’s no way the narrative could resist his fashionable brilliance. He no doubt pictures his “life is hard” platitudes stenciled on a Bill Gold-designed poster above a stylized illustration of himself posing with a .45, his eyes shielded by those tinted specs as he tilts his head against the cowl of one of many off-the-rack turtlenecks.

What Jackie missed when putting together his “Bullitt-on-a-budget” wardrobe was the timeless factor that established Steve McQueen as the reigning King of Cool whose style would remain aspirational for many more than a half-century after his chase through the City by the Bay. On the other hand, Jackie opts for the latest threads that would relegate his closet to a time capsule within a decade.

Jackie’s approach to dressing is established when he makes his on-screen introduction, stepping out of his Road Runner in a burnt tan leather jacket laden with a half-dozen pockets and plenty of straps, worn unzipped over the first of a trio of turtlenecks. This first turtleneck (or rollneck) is slate blue in ribbed-knit wool, worn with dark brown woolen flannel flat front trousers.

The hip-length jacket has three pockets flanking each side of the zip front, almost completely covering the front of the jacket from armpits to hem. The lowest row of pockets are large patch pockets the size of a small purse with flaps secured in place by a vertical strap that closes through a gold-toned single-prong buckle; above that is a row of slightly smaller patch pockets, these ones each detailed with an inverted box pleat and another gently pointed flap; at the top, placed just ahead of the armpits, are the small patch pockets open at the top.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

In his blog The Art of Leather Jackets, Spencer Stewart wrote that this six-pocket style was made famous by East West Leathers and has been widely reproduced by outfitters on both sides of the pond, including UK brands like Aero Leathers (as the “Hippie Jacket”) and Ibex of England  and in the United States by Levi’s Vintage Clothing as the “Scorched Up” jacket.

Selecting a leather jacket may suggest less refinement than McQueen’s tweed, but Jackie could have found a more timeless approach—and another King of Cool homage—with a classic bomber like the A-2 flight jacket. Instead, Jackie chooses a blouson that could have only trended during the Nixon era, its burnt orange-hued steerhide shell worn to a softly napped patina due to spending his 40-hour workweek in the cramped cockpit of his Plymouth.

The back is detailed with a proto-Western pointed yoke across the shoulders. A short, gently slanted strap connects each side seam of the jacket with a short dart on the back; three holes on each of these pointed straps connect to a gold-toned single-prong buckle to adjust the jacket’s fit around the waist. A long brass zipper along the inside of each forearm adjusts the fit of the sleeves, expanding the sleeve as it opens.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Note the Western-style back yoke and the side adjuster buckle-tabs.

Jackie wears the tan East West-style jacket again for his second on-screen transaction, this time brokering the sale of M16 rifles to a group of scrappy radicals planning their revolution from the back of a panel truck. This time, his ribbed rollneck is black, echoing his black leather gloves. He also dresses down with a pair of medium blue denim jeans with patch pockets in the front and back.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

For the second half of Jackie Brown’s on-screen misadventures in arms trading, he wears a fashion-forward motorcycle jacket in chocolate brown suede. Though it lacks the many snaps, flaps, and straps characteristic of a classic Schott Perfecto, this soft moto jacket has broad lapels, asymmetrical front zip, and zip-up sleeves on the outside of each cuff that create open vents as they’re opened. The zip hardware is all silver-toned rather than the gold of his previous jacket.

Jackie deviates from his preferred turtlenecks for a few indoor meetings with Eddie, both times wearing vibrantly patterned shirts with the massive point collars that were so trendy during this era. The first shirt is a chaotic geometric print in shades of burgundy, beige, and black, followed by a large-scaled paisley in scarlet red, blue, silver, and gold.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Meeting away from his Road Runner for once, Jackie sports a new look with his darker suede moto jacket and bold printed shirts.

Once Jackie’s nefarious duties bring him back to the relative comfort of his Road Runner’s black leather upholstery, he layers this second darker brown moto jacket over another ribbed turtleneck, this one tonally coordinated in a light tan with sets of three brown stripes ringed around the neck, body, and sleeves.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Jackie’s brown woolen trousers appear to be the same flannel flat front pants from his first scene, detailed with “frogmouth”-style front pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms with enough of a flare to coordinate with the rest of his disco-era duds. The trousers have belt loops, though Jackie foregoes a belt, perhaps to avoid a stiff obstruction against his waistline during hours spent crouching behind the wheel of his Road Runner.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

If you have the kind of job that keeps you in the car most of the day, make sure you’re dressed comfortably for it!

Though both the jacket and trousers are a textured dark brown, there is a slight contrast between the warmer, slight russet tones of his suede jacket against his cooler brown flannel trousers.

Men’s boots had perhaps reached their zenith in the 1970s when men were wearing boots of every shade, shape, and size were worn with outfits in a wide range of formality, from ankle boots with suits and ties to cowboy boots in the city. Jackie is no exception, though his russet brown leather ankle boots with their inside zip closure are a neatly coordinated choice with the rest of this casual outfit.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Jackie faces his reckoning at the end of ATF agent Dave Foley’s shotgun.

Throughout this dealings, Jackie wears a set of gold-framed aviator sunglasses with yellow tinted lenses. This latter detail that serves form as well as function as yellow lenses are said to provide clearer vision for driving at night, a frequent part of Jackie’s work. The acetate brow bar suggests that Jackie wears the Ray-Ban Outdoorsman aviator model, which had been introduced in 1939 with that reinforced bar over the bridge to keep sweat from clouding a pilot’s vision.

Ray-Ban’s current run of Outdoorsman and Outdoorsman II models tend to feature the standard green or gray lenses so buyers hoping for new Ray-Bans with yellow lenses will have to catch the leather-wrapped Outdoorsman Craft when it’s back in stock or settle for a pair of black-framed Aviator Washed Evolve sunglasses with their yellow photochromic lenses. Of course, you could also seek out vintage Ray-Bans with the signature Ambermatic yellow lenses they touted would “cut the haze” in overcast weather while sharpening contrast for increased depth perception, certainly an asset for an arms dealer out of his depth in the Athens of America.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Add a round cigarette holder between those yellow lenses, and Jackie’s gone from emulating Steve McQueen to Hunter S. Thompson!

Jackie wear a gold wristwatch with a round off-white dial, secured to his left wrist on a brown leather bund strap. This wide strap is detailed with ornate orange-filled etching and two short leather tabs with gold-toned snaps that hold the watch lugs in place.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Eddie catches sight of Jackie’s “Army guns” as they complete a deal in the grocery store parking lot.

The Gun

Like the way he dresses and drives, Jackie Brown’s choice of armament says plenty about his character and professionalism. A respected and reliable handgun like the M1911A1 indicates that Jackie—who makes his living selling guns—is understandably aware and likely appreciative of the virtues of this .45-caliber semi-automatic pistol, which had served as his own country’s service sidearm for nearly sixty years at the time.

However, as Jackie’s electric green whip and trendy clothes inform us, a blued or parkerized service pistol just would be a bit too subtle for our friendly neighborhood gun dealer, who springs for a pearl-gripped, nickel-plated M1911A1 with a mirrored finish that shines in the moonlight.

“Hold it! I got a .45 on ya,” Jackie shouts to the two brokers he’s buying M16 rifles from. The bore suggests that Jackie’s pistol actually is chambered in the substantial .45 ACP round, unlike the Spanish-made Star Model B copies in 9mm that were used for scenes in contemporary films like The Wild BunchThe GetawayDillinger, and Three Days of the Condor that required a 1911-type pistol to be fired on screen. Occasionally, these other films used .45-caliber 1911s as stand-ins until the firing was needed, but—as Jackie doesn’t discharge his weapon on screen—Steven Keats indeed carries a genuine .45-caliber M1911A1 in The Friends of Eddie Coyle.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

A classic M1911A1 is a reasonable choice for a professional arms dealer’s personal sidearm, but a shiny nickel-plated M1911A1 with pearl grips is the fashionable choice for a flashy arms dealer.

We’re introduced to Jackie’s work as he takes a deal to secure revolvers for a gang of bank robbers led by Jimmy Scalise (Alex Rocco), brokered by “The Beard” (Jack Kehoe). The order for thirty guns includes an array of Colt and Smith & Wesson revolvers, mostly chambered in .38 Special though the Smith & Wesson Model 27 that Scalise would eventually carry for himself during a bank job would also take the longer .357 Magnum cartridge.

The Model 27 originated as the Smith & Wesson Registered Magnum when it was introduced alongside the powerful new cartridge in 1935. When Smith & Wesson began numbering its models in the 1950s, the Registered Magnum was redubbed the Model 27, sharing its large N-frame platform with the lower-cost Model 28 Highway Patrolman. Aside from the Model 28’s matte finish as opposed to the Model 27’s polished carbon steel, there was little difference in performance between the two weapons.

A popular law enforcement weapon, as its name implies, the Model 27 double-action revolver was produced in a range of barrel lengths from 3½” up to the ungainly 1058“, though the classic four-inch service revolver configuration was likely among the most popular. As Eddie Coyle himself would state, “I’ve never been able to understand a man that wanted to use a machine gun… the best all-around item is the four-inch Smith. You can lift it; she goes where you point it.”

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Jackie Brown gets in a few test aims with a four-inch Smith & Wesson Model 27 he’s procuring for Jimmy Scalise’s gang.

What got Eddie talking about machine guns in the first place? A driving plot point of The Friends of Eddie Coyle is Jackie’s arranged sale of M16 service rifles for Pete (Matthew Cowles) and Andrea (Margaret Ladd), a young couple of ex-hippies seeking to rob a bank.

Look, I got two problems sellin’ machine guns to people like you. The first is sellin’ machine guns, that’s life in this state! The second is sellin’ to people like you; you’re not honest.

Despite his well-deserved hesitations, Jackie can’t help but to continue the deal: “I can get you five machine guns by Friday. M16s, $350 a piece. You want ammo, it’s extra… $250 for 500 rounds.”

Firearms enthusiasts may wince each time a character refers to the M16 as a “machine gun” as it’s technically a selective-fire battle rifle, though it may as well be an M60 as far as Jackie’s concerned as the ATF had identified all selective-fire M16 rifles to fall under the purview of Title II of the Gun Control Act of 1968, which reinforced terms stipulated by the National Firearms Act enacted in 1934.

Following years of development, the M16 was first authorized for U.S. military service in 1963 and would continue to be issued in various patterns and iterations, all chambered for the 5.56x45mm NATO round derived from the .223 Remington. At the time The Friends of Eddie Coyle was written, produced, and set, the M16A1 service rifle was still the standard weapon fielded by American troops fighting in Vietnam. The weapons Jackie secured for his sale to Pete and Andrea appear to be the older-pattern M16 (rather than the M16A1), as evident by the slickside upper receivers, slabside lower receivers, and triple-prong flash hiders.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

“Those look like fakken’ ahmy guns to me,” Eddie observes after spotting the M16s in Jackie’s trunk.

The Car

Jackie Brown deals his dangerous trade from the trunk of a 1971 Plymouth Road Runner with a black vinyl roof and a body painted in an electric shade of lime green that Chrysler designated “curious yellow” which, if I’m not mistaken, makes it one of the few mainstream American cars whose official marketing materials associated it with Swedish erotic drama.

While I may be more forgiving of the Road Runner’s appearance than blogger Joe Mazel, I absolutely love his contextualization of Jackie’s car, particularly when compared to the King of Cool:

Bullitt‘s claim to fame is McQueen’s Mustang and the car chase through San Francisco. The Friends of Eddie Coyle has its own car and subsequent chase but done in a style befitting this ode to failure. While the Bullitt Mustang is impressive, that car blends in—Bullitt has a sense of dignity. Jackie Brown’s Road Runner is an eyesore. Its near-neon shade attracts attention wherever it goes, and (much to Brown’s ire) where it goes are spots like a grocery store parking lot. As for the chase itself: the police at a MBTA station’s parking lot surround Brown. Instead of the citywide chase of Bullitt, Brown doesn’t even make it out of the parking lot before being stopped by the cops. In the world of Eddie Coyle, reality does not bend to self-image.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

You can’t miss Jackie Brown’s Plymouth Road Runner maneuvering through the streets of Boston, particularly on a gloomy late fall day where that electric shade of yellow-green would never occur naturally… aside from someone spilling Mountain Dew at Schaefer Stadium.

“Muscle cars had evolved from mainstream models with expensive special engines to expensive special models with expensive special engines,” wrote the auto editors of Consumer Guide in Kings of the Street. “What the youth of America needed was an inexpensive mainstream model with an inexpensive special engine. In ’68, Plymouth gave it to them.”

Plymouth’s new mid-size, entry-level model hit auto showrooms the previous fall with the 1968 Road Runner, built on the same B-body platform as Plymouth’s Belvedere, GTX, and Satellite models as well as its Mopar cousins, the Dodge Charger and Coronet. The new car’s name no doubt sounded familiar to Looney Tunes fans. “Plymouth paid Warner Bros. $50,000 for rights to decorate the new model with the name and likeness of a cartoon bird,” explains Kings of the Street. “It was just the right touch. The Road Runner became a smash hit… Motor Trend called it ‘the most brazenly pure, non-compromising super car in history… its simplicity is a welcome virtue.'”

Built for performance, the first generation of Road Runners only offered Mopar’s top engines. The standard model was powered by a modified 383 cubic-inch V8 rated at 335 horsepower with the legendary 426 Hemi a $714 option. In mid-1969, a 440 “Six Pack” V8 was added to the lineup. In 1970, the Road Runner began competing against itself when Plymouth introduced the even lower-cost Duster as budget-friendly muscle, providing Plymouth with a compelling reason to join the rest of Detroit in going back to the drawing board to retool their muscle in the face of rising insurance costs and regulations as America edged nearer to the 1973 oil crisis.

Thus, 1971 was a transformative year for American automotive muscle, arguably “the last stand” for the tough designs and tougher engines that U.S. consumers had come to expect from the Big Three. In the Chrysler world, Mopar bodywork was completely redesigned to a more rounded, “fuselage”-like design. “Radically sculpted metal replaced the squarish look of 1968-70,” wrote James M. Flamming in Cars of the ’70s, noting that “all mid-size Plymouths now fell under the Satellite banner.”

A four-barrel 340 V8 joined the standing trio of the Road Runner’s V8 engine options, and the standard 383 Magnum V8 was de-tuned to generate 300 horsepower. 1971 marked the last year for the big-block 426 Hemi and 440 Six Pack options, which would be gone by the following year and ostensibly replaced by a de-powered 400 cubic-inch V8.

After the 1971 high water mark, the Road Runner continued to eke through the early half of the decade, slowly losing power in the face of increasing emissions regulations until the 1974 lineup included a base model 318 V8 that generated 170 horsepower, intermediate 360 and 400 cubic-inch engines, and a big-block 440 V8 generating 275 horsepower and mated only to the three-speed TorqueFlite automatic transmission.

The third and final generation of the Road Runner was produced for the 1975 model year only before it was transitioned to a trim level for the Plymouth Volaré compact car through the end of the ’70s, a considerably ignominious end for a once great Plymouth powerhouse.

Jackie Brown's Plymouth Road Runner in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

There’s a reason Plymouth marketed their mid-size muscle car as the Road Runner and not the Parking Lot Runner, as Jackie Brown learns to his dismay when making his last stand against the ATF in The Friends of Eddie Coyle.

1971 Plymouth Road Runner

Body Style: 2-door hardtop coupe

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 383 cu. in. (6.3 L) Plymouth “Commando” V8 with Holley 4-barrel carburetor

Power: 300 hp (223.5 kW; 304 PS) @ 4800 RPM

Torque: 410 lb·ft (556 N·m) @ 3400 RPM

Transmission: 4-speed manual

Wheelbase: 115 inches (2921 mm)

Length: 203.2 inches (5161 mm)

Width: 79.1 inches (2009 mm)

Height: 52.7 inches (1339 mm)

“I always wanted to see what these things can do. You get the Magnum mill?” one of Jackie’s buyers asks him.

“No, I got the Hemi. 383 Hemi,” Jackie responds.

Right away, muscle car enthusiasts know something is awry as the 383 V8 (which he clearly has) was indeed marketed by select Chryslers as the “383 Magnum” while the Hemi applied at the time only to a specific, high-performance 426 cubic-inch V8.

This misleading dialogue was lifted directly from the text of George V. Higgins’ novel, which describes Jackie driving a metallic blue Road Runner with TorqueFlite transmission. While the simplest theory would be that Higgins had simply made a mistake that was translated to the screen, the mix-up also cements Jackie as the ultimate poser; he has the equipment, but he doesn’t know anything about it.

Jackie knows he has the 383, a fact undeniable to anyone who sees the clearly marked “383” on the hood cowl, and he’s also likely to know that the Hemi engine is the “holy grail” of Mopar muscle. This telling dialogue suggests either that Jackie is truly ignorant of what he’s got under the hood, or he assumes his younger passenger would just take his word for the fact that he’s driving the top performance option.

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

The “383” emblems on Jackie’s hood clearly indicate that his Road Runner is powered by a 383 cubic-inch V8 engine, which had indeed been marketed by select Dodges as the “383 Magnum”. It was never a “383 Hemi” as the Hemi title was exclusively reserved for the 426 cubic-inch powerhouse at the time of The Friends of Eddie Coyle.

How to Get the Look

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Steven Keats as Jackie Brown in The Friends of Eddie Coyle (1973)

Jackie Brown was the sort of character I thought was cool when I was 20 years old, but now more than a decade on, he reads like a mildly effective facsimile who focused far more on style than substance, in turn establishing his own self-image that he hadn’t the aptitude to sustain with any authenticity. There’s plenty of “retro cool” value in his clothes and car, but—as Jackie failed to learn—you’d be best advised to incorporate the sensibilities of his style and make it your own.

Jackie’s base look consisted of soft brown leather zip-up jackets over ribbed turtlenecks with dark trousers, ankle boots, and personalized accessories… which should be enough of a template for the aspiring fashion plate to craft a look that Jackie himself would want to copy!

  • Brown leather hip-length biker jacket, either:
    • Tan steerhide zip-front jacket with six pockets, zip-up sleeves, and rear adjuster tabs, or
    • Dark brown suede motorcycle jacket with asymmetrical front zip and zip-up sleeves
  • Slate-blue, black, or tan (with brown triple stripe sets) ribbed wool turtleneck
  • Dark brown woolen flannel flat front trousers with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Russet brown leather inside-zip ankle boots
  • Gold-framed “Outdoorsman”-style aviator sunglasses with acetate brow bar and yellow-tinted lenses
  • Gold wristwatch with off-white dial on brown orange-etched leather bund strap
  • Black leather gloves

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and read George V. Higgins’ 1970 novel.

The Quote

This life’s hard, man, but it’s harder if you’re stupid!

The post The Friends of Eddie Coyle: Jackie Brown’s Gun-Running Road Runner and Rollnecks appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Graduate: Ben’s Beige Windbreaker and Alfa Romeo

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Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Vitals

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock, nervous and aimless college graduate

Los Angeles, Summer to Fall 1967

Film: The Graduate
Release Date: December 22, 1967
Director: Mike Nichols
Costume Designer: Patricia Zipprodt

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Like CasablancaCitizen KaneThelma & Louise, and The Sopranos, I felt like I had seen or heard about the famous ending of The Graduate in depth before actually seeing the movie itself. Given that the iconic movie is over 50 years old, I hope I wouldn’t invite too much ire by discussing its famous ending openly in discussing Benjamin Braddock’s style as he desperately races through southern California in the hopes of halting Elaine Robinson’s wedding to the dreaded Makeout King.

Having recently gotten engaged myself (yay!), it felt appropriate to end this installment of #CarWeek with the cherry red Alfa Romeo that factored so significantly in Benjamin’s life following his graduation, whether it it was on his burlesque-and-burgers date with the bright-eyed Elaine (Katharine Ross), furtive assignations with her mother (Anne Bancroft), or on his gas-guzzling dash to get him to the church on time scored by Simon & Garfunkel’s enduring folk banger “Mrs. Robinson”.

What’d He Wear?

A rainy date with Elaine calls for Benjamin leaving his tweed and corduroy at home, pulling on a hooded windbreaker over his blue button-down shirt. However, the Robinson woman who eagerly runs up to Benjamin’s Alfa Romeo and sits beside him turns out not to be Elaine but her now-drenched mother who reinforces her order that Benjamin not see her daughter. Prompted by her threats, Benjamin makes his own mad dash into the Robinson house and up the stairs to where a half-dressed Elaine is soon to learn her latest suitor has, in fact, spent the last few months sleeping with her mother.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Benjamin’s water-resistant windbreaker may have protected him from the rain outside, but there’s no dressing to prepare for the storm about to hit the inside of the Robinson household.

Up to this point in The Graduate, Benjamin’s wardrobe had primarily reflected a fashionable if conservative dress consisting of Ivy-inspired pieces like his navy blazer, tweed sack jacket, and corded sports coat, typically worn with OCBDs and knitted ties. Not coincidentally, he’s also spent this much of the film living his life at the behest of the generation that preceded him, whether that meant his parents or their seductive friends.

One of my favorite style accounts on Instagram is @berkeley_breathes, who was kind enough to add some additional perspective about how Benjamin is “being pigeonholed by all the adults, put into a box as a certain kind of person now that he’s graduated,” adding that “only with Elaine does he start to figure out who he really is, so he starts to lose his strict Ivy allegiance.”

It’s this scene that finally breaks the pattern as Benjamin makes a decision for himself that goes against the demands of a previous generation, in this instance represented by Mrs. Robinson ordering that he break things off with Elaine. Instead, Benjamin calls Mrs. Robinson’s bluff, bounding up that dramatic staircase to confront poor Elaine with the revelation that will change her life… and no doubt inspire a lifetime of therapy to follow.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

How many humiliations must poor Elaine suffer in just 24 hours of dating Benjamin? First, a date to the strip club and now…

Katharine Ross and Dustin Hoffman in The Graduate (1967)

If the youthful windbreaker represents Benjamin’s independence against the rest of his more traditionally informed wardrobe, it’s appropriate that his mad dash to escape Elaine’s interrupted nuptials results in his jacket getting ripped apart, a visual representation of the destructive influence that the “old guard” has had on Benjamin and his generation.

Benjamin’s attire thus reflects this seismic shift in his motivations and respective action as he wears his arguably most youthful piece seen yet: a hooded zip-up windbreaker in beige nylon. This may be the first piece we’ve seen that wouldn’t have been worn by Benjamin’s parents when they were his age.

The light, thigh-length jacket has a zipper that begins a few inches from the bottom and zips up to the neck, where it meets a long shirt-style point collar. A lightweight hood extends out from inside the collar, flapping behind Benjamin’s head as he motors through the L.A. suburbs. The set-in sleeves close at the cuffs on one of two buttons to adjust the fit and potentially protect the wearer’s arms from the elements on a rainy day.

Like so many iconic menswear pieces that trace their origins to functional military garments, Benjamin’s windbreaker incorporates military field jacket sensibilities such as the drawstring hood, cinched waist, and the four external pockets. The two pleated pockets over the chest are large with mitred lower corners and a narrow rectangular flap across the top that seems to run flush on each side, closing each pocket through a single brown plastic button. Below the drawcord-cinched waist, the two large pleated hip pockets also have narrow rectangular flaps but they lack a button and have the traditional open sides.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Months later, the summer rain has turned to autumnal coldness as Benjamin learns from Mrs. Robinson that he won’t be able to stop Elaine’s marriage the following day (or so she thinks) just after she calls the police on him.

Months after Elaine learned of Benjamin’s affair with her mother, he’s rejoined her at Berkeley after making amends (and then some!) to the point where he’s able to earnestly buy her an engagement ring. A visit from the angry and bitter Mr. Robinson (Murray Hamilton) changes Benjamin’s designs on matrimony and sends him desperately spiraling as he loses both his apartment and prospective fiancée in a matter of minutes.

Benjamin wears the same outfit from these scenes through the end of the movie, moving even further from his Ivy trappings by swapping out his OCBD for a black cotton polo shirt. The shirt’s two clear plastic two-hole buttons and gold-embroidered chest logo suggest that this is the same shirt he wore earlier with his tan corduroy sports coat and blue jeans. His casual trousers here could also qualify as jeans, albeit somewhat dressier in their cream-colored cotton. His tucked-in polo shows the medium brown leather belt with a gold-finished square single-prong belt buckle.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Happier times just hours earlier as Benjamin picks up an engagement ring for Elaine.

Another significant shift in Benjamin’s style can be found on his feet. Through most of The Graduate, Benjamin favored penny loafers, the all-American prep staple. Now, finally making his own decisions and dressing accordingly, former college track star Benjamin eschews the Ivy-approved kicks and wears a pair of dirty Jack Purcell sneakers, identifiable by the signature black “smile” bumped across the toes of the white outsoles and by the asymmetrical navy cutout on the bottom of each sole. He wears them with a pair of unfashionable but practical white ribbed crew socks.

Canadian-born badminton champion Jack Purcell introduced these athletic shoes for P.F. Flyers in 1935, curiously just a year before G.H. Bass & Co. launched the penny loafer in Maine. Of course, while the penny loafer could transcend its casual roots for acceptance with jackets and ties, only the most daring would attempt such incongruous formality with sneakers, particularly ones that have kicked as much dirt as Benjamin’s formerly off-white Purcells. After Converse’s parent company purchased the P.F. Flyers brand from B.F. Goodrich in 1972, Converse maintained the Jack Purcell brand and continues to make these sneakers today (available via Converse and Amazon.)

Benjamin’s Jack Purcells play a crucial role in the film’s final act, supplanting his exhausted Alfa Romeo as the final mode of transportation that allows him to arrive at the United Methodist Church of La Verne. It’s questionable whether Benjamin could have made such a dash on foot if he were still sporting his penny loafers, and it’s clear now why the Alfa Romeo—a gift from his parents symbolizing their intentions for him—would never bring him as far as he needed to go just to disrupt the older generation’s plan by absconding with Elaine.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

Jack Purcell: the official shoe for badminton champions and wedding crashers.

On his left wrist, Benjamin wears his typical steel watch with its brown gradient dial, strapped to a black leather bracelet.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

The Car

Benjamin Braddock returns home after college to his swanky graduation present, a cherry red 1966 Alfa Romeo Spider 1600, unofficially known as the “Duetto” model. Some could argue the little red roadster is less of a present and more of a subconscious bribe, an offering that as long as Benjamin lives out the life his parents expect of him, he can reach his destinations in style.

Indeed, the sleek Italian sports car is praised by the middle-aged members of the Braddock coterie at Benjamin’s graduation party, such as the blowhard Mr. Carlson (Laurence Haddon) who crudely shares his admiration for the “little red wop job” as well as how easily it will allow Benjamin to pick up “the girls, the chicks, the teeny-boppers!” Mrs. Carlson (Eve McVeagh), on the other hand, is quite sure that Ben has “gotten beyond the teeny-bopper stage.” Benjamin would be asked to prove that hypothesis that very evening when Mrs. Robinson approaches him for a ride home. “Do you know how to work a foreign shift?” he asks as he hands over the keys, though it isn’t the Alfa Romeo’s five-speed gearbox that Mrs. Robinson has her eye on.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

With his parents’ approval, Benjamin drives up to Berkeley in his Alfa Romeo to propose to Elaine.

The “Spider” or “Spyder” designation is used interchangeably by auto manufacturers—typically European—to denote a two-door, two-seat roadster. Brian Silvestro for Road & Track has traced the term back to the pre-automotive days in the 19th century when the thin-spoked wheels of lighter-weight horse-drawn carriages were likened to spider legs; as these carriages were essentially the sports cars of the Victorian era, the terminology evolved with technology as horses were replaced with horsepower.

Alfa Romeo announced their new Spider at the 36th Geneva Motor Show in March 1966, a successor to the Giulia Spider model. A contest to name their latest product yielded more than 100,000 ballots, though Guidobaldo Trionfi’s winning suggestion of “Duetto” was eventually rejected on trademark grounds, instead adopted as the first generation Spider’s unofficial moniker among fans and enthusiasts.

The Spider was introduced with a 1570 cc twin cam straight-four engine carried over from the Giulia that generated 108 net horsepower or 125 gross horsepower. More than 6,300 Spider 1600s were produced with this engine in 1966 and 1967 before it was supplanted by a larger 1779 cc engine for the 1750 Spider Veloce model. In the summer of 1968, Alfa Romeo introduced the lower-priced Spider 1300 Junior, powered by a 1290 cc mill that generated 88 net horsepower. Both the 1750 Spider Veloce and the Spider 1300 Junior would continue as the available options when the model received its first facelift in 1970 with the “Coda Tronca” Series 2 generation.

Nearly all Spiders across all four generations were mated to a five-speed manual transmission, and it wasn’t until the “Ultima” Series 4 generation in the 1990s that a limited number were available with a three-speed automatic transmission.

1966 Alfa Romeo Spider 1600 "Duetto" in The Graduate (1967)

Benjamin again finds himself on his way to Elaine, but—having lost his parents’ endorsement of the decision—his Alfa Romeo refuses to take him any farther.

1966 Alfa Romeo Spider 1600 “Duetto”

Body Style: 2-door roadster

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 1570 cc (1.6 L) Alfa Romeo Twin Cam straight-4 with dual Weber two-barrel side-draft carburetors

Power: 125 hp (93 kW; 126 PS) @ 6500 RPM (SAE)

Torque: 115 lb·ft (156 N·m) @ 3000 RPM

Transmission: 5-speed manual

Wheelbase: 88.6 inches (2250 mm)

Length: 167.3 inches (4250 mm)

Width: 64.2 inches (1630 mm)

Height: 50.8 inches (1290 mm)

Alfa Romeo would eventually capitalize on its famous connection to The Graduate when a “Graduate” trim level of the “Aerodinamica” Series 3 Spider was marketed in the United States during the 1980s.

According to IMCDB, it was Dustin Hoffman himself who brokered his way into Benjamin Braddock driving a Duetto as his uncle was an Alfa Romeo importer and helped secure two red ’66 Spider 1600 roadsters for one of their first and arguably most iconic appearances in a Hollywood production.

Dustin Hoffman as Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate (1967)

How to Get the Look

Katharine Ross and Dustin Hoffman in The Graduate (1967)

Katharine Ross and Dustin Hoffman in The Graduate (1967). Note that Benjamin’s chino khakis appear to differ from the cream jeans-style pants he wears on screen.

In the final act of The Graduate, Benjamin Braddock’s wardrobe significantly deviates from his celebrated Ivy roots as he dresses in youthful hooded windbreaker, polo, and sneakers to crash Elaine Robsinon’s wedding… and finally disrupt the plans of an older generation that has guided his actions to this point.

  • Beige lightweight nylon thigh-length windbreaker jacket with drawstring hood, button-flapped pleated chest pockets, flapped pleated hip pockets, cinched waist (with drawstring), and adjustable button cuffs
  • Black cotton short-sleeve polo shirt with two-button placket and gold-embroidered chest logo
  • Cream cotton (or Bedford cord) flat front casual trousers with five jeans-style pockets
  • Brown leather belt with gold-toned square single-prong buckle
  • White canvas-and-rubber Jack Purcell sneakers
  • White ribbed crew socks
  • Steel wristwatch with brown gradient dial on black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. I also highly recommend following my friend @berkeley_breathes on Instagram for fantastic and insightful Ivy style content.

The post The Graduate: Ben’s Beige Windbreaker and Alfa Romeo appeared first on BAMF Style.

The Godfather, Part III: Vincent Mancini’s Leather Jacket

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Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Vitals

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini, hotheaded mob enforcer

New York City, Spring 1979

Film: The Godfather Part III
Release Date: December 25, 1990
Director: Francis Ford Coppola
Costume Designer: Milena Canonero

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Caddyshack II.
Speed 2: Cruise Control.
Jaws 4: The Revenge
.
The Godfather, Part III.

Francis Ford Coppola’s conclusion to the saga of the Corleone family may not be as bad as its fellow reviled franchise continuations, but it was certainly among the more disappointing given the quality and prestige of The Godfather‘s first two installments. Coppola sought to rectify its reputation with Mario Puzo’s The Godfather, Coda: The Death of Michael Corleone, a recut and restructured version released this month to coincide with the 30th anniversary of The Godfather, Part III‘s original theatrical release. The limited theatrical run of Coda began on Friday, December 4, and will be scheduled to release to streaming services and home video on Tuesday, December 8.

“In musical term, a coda is sort of like an epilogue, a summing up, and that’s what we intended the movie to be,” explained Coppola. “You’ll see a film which has a different beginning and ending, many scenes throughout have been repositioned, and the picture has been given, I think, a new life.” Coppola and others from the original production—including an effusive Diane Keaton, an introspective Andy Garcia, and an albeit more cautious Al Pacino—have shared that Coda vindicates Coppola and Puzo’s original vision for the third film, restructuring the narrative, shifting the focus, and even lending credibility to Sofia Coppola’s much-criticized performance as Mary, Michael Corleone’s daughter.

Despite its notorious reputation, the original cut of The Godfather, Part III does have its champions, including Siskel and Ebert, Leonard Maltin, and the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences who went so far as to nominate it for seven Oscars including Best Picture. (Given that this was the same year that Dances with Wolves won over Goodfellas, it could be argued that there was something fishy in the Academy’s water that year.)

“It can’t be as rough as everyone says it is, right?” I had tried to assure myself before the first time I watched The Godfather, Part III. After all, I’d heard arguments that it was a misunderstood masterpiece or that it would would fare better as a standalone film once out from the shadow of its acclaimed forebears. I tried to be be open-minded but, even upon subsequent rewatches, The Godfather, Part III never feels like anything greater than prestigious fanfic and certainly not a deserving conclusion to one of the most masterfully presented sagas in American cinema.

One of my favorite parts of The Godfather, Part III is Andy Garcia’s Oscar-nominated performance as Vincent Mancini, Sonny Corleone’s illegitimate son who had been retconned into existence after reviewing Mario Puzo’s 1969 novel proves that Lucy Mancini could not have conceived Sonny’s child in the original canon. Still, Garcia delivers on creating a complex character that fulfills Coppola’s stated vision of presenting the signature traits of all five Corleone men: Sonny’s temper, Michael’s ruthlessness, Vito’s cunning, Fredo’s sensitivity, and Tom Hagen’s courageous loyalty.

Granted, I take some issues with believing that a shrewd, cautious leader like Michael would so swiftly bring his hotheaded nephew under his wing—especially just moments after Vincent pulls a Mike Tyson on one of Michael’s most dangerous potential enemies right in his office!—but The Godfather, Part III wouldn’t be what it is without plot absurdities that require the viewer to suspend their disbelief… not only that such a plot would be feasible but also that it came from the minds who delivered the first two films in the canon.

As with its predecessors, The Godfather, Part III begins with a Corleone family celebration, this time in honor of a sexagenarian Michael Corleone (Al Pacino) being named a Commander of the Order of Saint Sebastian for his charitable contributions to the Catholic Church. Vincent crashes the party but is received in open arms by his family, particularly his first cousin Mary. Connie (Talia Shire), Vincent’s strongest advocate and now arguably in much more of a leadership role than we saw in the previous two parts, brokers an opportunity for Vincent to meet with Michael to settle a conflict with Joey Zasa (Joe Mantegna), the smug but dapper don who reigns over the Corleone family’s criminal enterprises.

The meeting proves fortuitous for Vincent, as Mr. Joe Zasa comes away without part of his ear while Vincent’s gains are three-fold: a job opportunity with his powerful uncle, a warm welcome into the family (which Mary hopes to make even warmer), and a willing one night stand in the form of ambitious reporter Grace Hamilton (Bridget Fonda)… who would come to regret her decision when her flirtation with danger results in a knife held to her throat by one of Zasa’s thugs that broke into Vincent’s apartment to murder him.

The cast of The Godfather, Part III (1974)

The happy family… and their pensive archbishop pal.

“Overall, this version feels even more elegiac—a true coda instead of just another part of the same story,” writes Brian Tallerico in his thoughtful review for RogerEbert.com. “The truth is that the first two ‘Godfather’ movies tell a complete story. There’s no need for a third, and that’s why Coppola avoided making it for years, only succumbing to pressure from Paramount after a few notable financial failures in the ’80s… but if you’re someone who defended it or found yourself wondering if it was better than you remembered … well, it’s definitely better now.”

Similar to my first Part III viewing experiences, I’ll watch Coda with an open mind and hope that it lives up to the praise and its—as of this writing—100% rating on Rotten Tomatoes, thus providing Michael Corleone with the ending he deserves… and Vincent Mancini with the beginning he deserves.

What’d He Wear?

“I wish you woulda warned me, Con, I woulda worn a better suit,” Vincent Mancini grumbles to his aunt after she promises him an audience with Michael. Indeed, Vincent’s leather-clad look doesn’t go unnoticed when he joins Michael and Joey Zasa, each tailored in their own double-breasted duds, in Michael’s office.

Vincent’s much-discussed jacket is a black leather sports coat with a single-breasted, two-button front. The lapels appear to have been designed with a peak lapel sensibility but with a deep, narrow notch in the “fish mouth” shape similar to the cran necker lapel. The jacket has wide shoulders, a welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, and four-button cuffs that appear to be finished with narrow “turnback” cuffs.

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Vincent doesn’t allow Michael’s passive-aggressive commentary on his wardrobe deter him from standing up for himself during a meeting with Joey Zasa.

“Nice jacket,” comments Mary as Vincent sidles up next to her in the Corleone family picture. Grace evidently agrees, slipping it on later that night when she gets out of his bed to fetch him a glass of water… and bait the two henchmen waiting to kill her latest bedmate.

Bridget Fonda as Grace Hamilton in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Who needs a robe when you can just put on a leather jacket? Note the photo of James Caan as Sonny on one of Vincent’s sparse shelves, having been taken during Connie’s wedding in The Godfather.

I concede that Vincent Mancini’s approach to dressing may be consistent with the late ’70s, but there’s something that feels off… as though his clothes weren’t actually made in the ’70s. This isn’t an issue I limit to Vincent’s wardrobe or even to the costumes as a whole, as The Godfather, Part III never seems to inhabit the world of 1979 as its two predecessors had in their respective eras.

Costume designer Milena Canonero, a four-time Academy Award winner and nine-time nominee, seems to favor dressing those in the Corleone orbit in more timeless fashions than the broad collars, lapels, ties, and more that were characteristic of disco-era extremes. Of course, there were some fashion-forward dressers in 1979 who were already embracing the slimmer-featured menswear that would come to define the following decade; one need look no further than Richard Gere, Armani-clad in American Gigolo, to know that. Still, the dearth of any of those key aspects of late ’70s menswear raises a suspicious eye.

You’d like Vincent Mancini, a young hothead at his least refined at the beginning of the story, would be dressed a little more in keeping with the times and trends; a wider shirt collar and tie blade here or more of a flared detail there. Instead, his clothes differ little from the styles and fabrics popular at the time of the film’s production a decade after it was set.

With his leather jacket, Vincent wears a silky burgundy shirt with a point collar, button cuffs, and a unique slim-welted pocket set-in against the left breast. His tie is printed with a bronze-and-gold paisley pattern, covered by black abstract streaks and set against a scarlet red ground.

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Vincent flirts with Mary.

Vincent wears black flat front trousers held up by a black leather belt with a silver-toned rectangular single-prong buckle. The bottoms appear to be plain-hemmed, breaking over his black shoes. If I’m not mistaken, his black calf leather shoes are cap-toe oxfords.

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Vincent had also entered the party carrying a light brown wool peak-lapel overcoat over his arm, though we never see him with it again after this scene.

Vincent wears a gold wristwatch with a round off-white dial strapped to this left wrist on a dark brown textured leather strap.

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Not on the guest list? Vincent won’t take no for an answer.
Note the narrow cuffs turned back on the end of his jacket sleeves.

Throughout The Godfather, Part III, Vincent wears the same array of gold jewelry, including a chain-link ID bracelet with “VINCENT” etched into the nameplate tag on his right wrist, a ring with a flat ovular surface on the third finger of his right hand, and a thin gold necklace with a gold cross that hangs low, buried in Andy Garcia’s chest hair as seen when he wraps on his scarlet silk robe to confront the killers in his apartment.

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Vincent’s red silk robe may look debonair, but he’ll resent a few weeks from now when he didn’t notice the dried blood from the intruder whose head he had to blow off.

The knee-length silk dressing gown has a subtle self-polka dot pattern and ties with a sash around his waist.

The Gun

Vincent uses a Beretta Cheetah semi-automatic pistol to great effect against the two killers, presumably having taken it from the thug credited as Mask #2 (Michael Bowen) and eventually used to dispatch both.

Beretta introduced this Series 81 line of compact pistols to the market in 1976, thus it’s not an anachronism to be featured in this scene set in 1979. Cosmetically similar (but not identical) to the larger Beretta 92 series that had been introduced the same year, the alloy-framed Cheetah pistols are blowback-operated and chambered for smaller pistol calibers including .32 ACP, .380 ACP, and .22 LR. The moniker is consistent with Beretta marketing its pistols with feline names like the Bobcat, Cougar, Jaguar, and Tomcat in addition to their numeric designations.

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Vincent holds “Mask #2″‘s own Beretta Cheetah on him while negotiating with “Mask #1”.

The rounded trigger guard on Vincent’s pistol suggests that it’s an earlier model (prior to the squared “combat” trigger guards introduced for the F and FS versions), though it lacks the wooden grips found on base models so it’s more likely a B or BB version evolution.

Based on the bore size, I also believe Vincent wields one of the .380 ACP model Cheetahs, which rules out the .32-caliber Models 81 and 82 and the .22-caliber Model 87. Of the remaining .380 ACP pistols, I don’t believe it’s a Model 86 as it lacks the tip-up barrel that loads a round directly into the chamber, nor does it have the longer 4″ barrel of the Model 83. Given how Garcia’s hand closes over the grip, I believe it’s not the Model 84 with its double-stacked 13-round capacity; thus, process of elimination suggests that Vincent uses a Beretta Model 85BB “Cheetah” with a 3.81″ barrel and single-stack magazine carrying eight rounds of .380 ACP.

In this close-up that requires Vincent to actually kill Mask #2, his Cheetah is swapped out for what appears to be a Walther PP pistol, though it’s likely that this was just a non-firing “non-gun” used for the actor’s safety rather than a functioning blank-firing pistol. Like the Cheetah series, the Walther PP is typically chambered in .32 ACP and .380 ACP with limited models also available in .22 LR.

Vincent would later use another similarly-framed Beretta, a .32-caliber Model 70, during the film’s final sequence set at the Sicilian opera. (The Beretta Cheetah had also appeared in the 1983 Scarface remake, in which Al Pacino carried a .32-caliber Model 81 as a more practical supplement to his “little friend”.)

What to Imbibe

Above his headboard, Vincent keeps a bottle of Jack Daniel’s and a glass suggesting that he poured some out before his tryst with Grace. This Tennessee whiskey would be on-brand for Vincent as a noted favorite of famous icons reputed for brashness and badassery from Frank Sinatra to Keith Richards. (Vincent probably considers himself an amalgamation of both!)

Andy Garcia and Bridget Fonda The Godfather, Part III (1990)

A more pleasant moment, just minutes earlier. After the double-killing, both Vincent and Grace would have plenty of use for that Jack Daniel’s on his headboard.

How to Get the Look

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Andy Garcia as Vincent Mancini in The Godfather, Part III (1990)

Not yet the sophisticated dresser he would become under his uncle Michael’s tutelage, Vincent Mancini crashes a Corleone family celebration in a black leather jacket over a blood red shirt. Points for formality as he at least wears a tie (and in his uncle’s new favorite print), and his minor sartorial controversy isn’t offensive enough to keep him out of the family photograph taken to commemorate the event.

Decades later, Vincent’s leather sports coat and tie would be considerably dressier than many men wear to parties, and this time of year makes his festive holiday red shirt particularly welcome.

  • Black leather single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with cran necker lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 4-button narrow-“turnback” cuffs, and ventless back
  • Burgundy silky shirt with point collar, set-in breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Bronze-on-red paisley silk tie
  • Black wool flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black calf leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Gold necklace with cross
  • Gold wristwatch with off-white round dial on dark brown textured leather strap
  • Gold chain-link ID bracelet
  • Gold ring with flat ovular surface

Vincent’s bracelet and ring can be most clearly seen as he cooks with Mary while in hiding.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series and find Coppola’s recut The Godfather, Coda: The Death of Michael Corleone.

The Quote

Do I look like a guy who’s gonna lose?

The post The Godfather, Part III: Vincent Mancini’s Leather Jacket appeared first on BAMF Style.

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